How would o do this when my window is all the way rolled down? I can’t get to the bolts to remover the regulator or window because I can’t adjust the height at all?
Ma porcoddio!!! Mi spieghi perché ti soffermi 10 secondi per fare vedere il numero della torx e nei punti importanti mandi il video veloce a 2x?????? Fai un video lento e spiega quel che cazzo fai! Troppo veloce e troppo muto, troppo buio
Yesterday I fix my right window but when I push the button doesn't want to go all the way down. Also when I open my door the window go a little down not how it should be. When I push it it goes all the way down whit open door but does not want to do it self. Any idea why?
Love it! First time the window cable snapped i did it in like 1hr and a half but it happened again luckily your video helped with refreshing my memory and fixed it in about 40 minutes lol
Not sure if anyone else is experiencing this, but the three nuts have that have to be removed in order to remove the glass in order to access them are giving me a hard time. My window has to be all the way up to align with the acess holes. However, my window has been jammed and doesn't have enough play in it to go all the way up. Any suggestions such as a way to manually roll the window up?
@@motorbreath7174 If I remember correctly I believe using the window roll down/up buttons there was a combination that released the tension on the regulator allowing you to move the window.
It seems like you have done this a few times! I liked your work ethics with laying down all the clips bolts and parts nicely and orderly! How long of a job is it? Thanks for posting your detailed video.👍🏻
Great job. This gave me the courage to go ahead and tackle this. Replaced the radiator in my 04 clk55, should be able to do this. Thanks again for the video
your welcome! yes its easier than the radiator. i replace my radiator and water pump before and it was way more time consuming. The only problem i had with the windows was putting the interior panel back on with the hooks that lock the panels together. other than that is was way easier than expected
@@robskates51 the one set back I had was the window was stuck in one area and would not budge any further up. So it was one heck of a task to somehow get to the window bolts. Once that was off I saw the wire was jammed in the wheel pulley and not moving
Hey Robert, just reinstalled the regulator with new wheel and wires. Hit the roll up button but the regulator track stops early. Wanted to see what you think it is. Wires looked perfect but you think the regulator is toast? It goes up and down but not all the way up allowing me to attach window. Your thoughts is you have a chance
@@JashertheGiantKiller you might have to trying clicking the up button instead of holding.. so try doing click and if you can get the window regulator all the way up. if not check the window cables and make sure they are both even. if the wires are getting jammed in the pulley. you will want to try and redo the steps on putting the wire on the pulleys. they pretty much go on one way.. another thing i can think of is if your kit came with one short wire and one long wire you could have them swapped (the longer cable should go to the top of the Regulator track and the Short one should be at the bottom pulley on the regulator track). but if they are both the same length then just make sure when you put the wires on the "Glider" and that it is centered between the two brackets like . 7:31 - 7:40 in the video. check your Gear pulley where the motor hooks up to and the bottom wire should be on the upper part of the gear Pulley and the upper wire should be on the bottom part of the gear pulley. i hope im not making it too confusing.
at 7:52 is what im talking about the Gear Pulley and the wire on top is the one that leads to the bottom pulley on the regulator track ( the bottom is the narrow area of the regulator track).
I believe when you reinstall the cable, you are supposed to place it on the smaller diameter of the two pulleys first. When the latter start to turn, they pull the cable on to the larger diameter. This way one can install the big wheel with less tension on the cable.
i see what you mean. it does make sense. i figured the reason why they have the smaller diameter side is to guide the cable onto the pulley because there is a black tab that kind of locks the cable onto the pulley so it doesnt slip off and the smaller diameter sections is the only place the cable can slide on to the pulley between the tab and pulley.. one of mine was bent so i took a hammer and tapped it a little bit to rebend it that way the cable wont jump/slide off the pulley
if so all i did was to get a vice grip and grip it on the larger flat/washer part of the bolt and carefully squeeze it as best you can and make sure you dont hit the threads or clamp the threads, and just get your rachet or drill and unscrew the nut from the bolt
What turbo?8psi means nothing without knowing which turbo u can make 400hp on 8psi with a big turbo and u can make 250hp on the same boost level(8psi) with a tiny turbo fuel also plays a huge role depends on which fuel
If it feels like it's pulling really hard on stock ECU it's probably because it's running super lean. Wideband O2 wouldn't work with the stock ECU either so you'd have no idea. Narrowband (0-1V) O2 is worthless on a gauge.
theres a lot of vitara builds with 250ish hp ,I've also see some making 400 hp but in your situation , why is that ? i mean .why no higher boost ?? you seem to have it all there , decent amount of money invested .. why not go big ?
Its beacuse where I live. Its kinda hard finding a tuner to tune your car when you need to. The closest tuner is 2 hrs away. And I want to get my car dyno tuned in salt lake wich is 3hrs away and he is hard to get a hold of. My plan is to get 450 - 500 hp. But first I need new injrctors
yes i did. i love the response with the 10.3 cr and it seemed to have a lot more torque and just all around better but i wouldnt know how much boost you can have with just pump gas with 10.3 compression. but now im runnin 17lbs with the 7.5 cr and i like it because its faster because more boost but still the bottem end sucks really bad but my goal is to run 27psi with a dyno tune so ill see how that is... but if i was to start over. i would get the 10.3 compression and get it dyno tuned right away with my methonal injection. then ill have a good ass d16 makin some real power. but then again. i want to run 27psi and ill see if that changes my mind...
I loved it. you can feel the difference. at least I did. and it wasn't tune good at all. it had a lot of problems... If you get 10ish compression. please get it dyno tuned. all I did was get a street tune. and I ended up melting my pistons because the tuner didn't do too go on that tune.. and I used 91 the hole time. and with the launch control. I had it set at 4800 rpm.. you can do that with the tune. but its set to high. im runnin 225/45 17 tires and it just sits there and goes no where.. even with low compression.. I would set mine at 3000 rpm for launch control (2 step). but im going to get lsd, new transmission and new axels and maybe I can have the launch control a 5000rpm. yeah sorry if the videos wernt that good of a comparison but I tried.. but with high compression. your only limited to how much boost on pump gas. that's why I have water meth injection so I can up it with out using race fuel.. one thing about high compression what sucks but was awesome was I finaly got a good shift from 1st to 2nd and it just sat there spinnin and didn't go no where. even with my huge tires haha. but that why get lsd for the trans
the Vitaras, i heard that they where good up to 600 hp and has been proved.. yes that can cause a pistons to crack when its to lean.. with the SRPs, you know i thought they were really good but they melted WAY to easy. but then again with the basemap i had. it was runing really lean and that all i had was a basemap. but when i got it "tuned" it still melted more. but i WILL go back to a 10.3 or 10.5:1 compression then get it Dyno Tuned cuz i love how it felt. and just powerfull.
I've had a set of YCP turbo Vitara pistons crack in the skirt to pin boss contact point and a set of oem style Suzuki vitara pistons crack in the same spot. I'm about to put another build back in the car with another set of Suzuki vitara pistons. Now I know I can't count of them long term. It may have been partly my fault that they cracked with my set up because I was leaning out at ledline several times with a marginal tune and I knew it. Are you unhappy with the SRP 10.3:1 pistons? Thanks.
@leech628 0:28 is at the FIler Fairground Arena its probably not waxed anymore cuz i dont skate in filer much anymore but there sick. 0:47 is in Twin Falls by FredMeyer in a little commercial area and thanks
