Thanks for the video, quick question, was this a intermittent issue? I ask because mine get the errors when hot, after the car is cold I can drive normal.
Hi, for me it was permanent issue as the sensors were faulty, it does not seem to be the same issue with you, I cannot see it being the sensors as they would not stop and then start functioning ?
When the error was up, did you find the gear changes were sluggish when first starting off after tunring the car on? I get the error very breifly during gear changes between 1st and 2nd or 2nd and 3rd but it clears itself.
Hello for me there was not really any performance issues other than issues related to parts of the car which require the wheel speed sensor to work like the cruise control stopped working..... mrix
What you gotta notice is- he already walked that way before you created the circle. So his trail was already there. Notice how he only goes the one way every time? Because he went that way before the circle, and left his trail. So he knows I can go that way. But without that trail to follow. He’d be confused.
Love that we're in the back of this video mooring up our little speedboat on the pontoon in lulworth cove whilst you're filming on the pebble beach at the start 😂 love this video. I found it today as was looking to see the walk to check if it's suitable for my 3 year old (who was in my tummy in this video) bizarre haha
Interesting video! I was looking at a ML350 that (as i understood it) had this exact problem fixed. However i felt thar the engine oil felt quite watery when warm. I dont know if thats normal or something to be affraid of?😬
The viscosity of oil will always become watery when heated, this engine requires a more high performance oil which are always more watery, certainly when hot....mrix
i got a leak in that area too, and my mb is in limp mode saying back preasure sensor fault. but i changed it , it is brand new.. what else it could be? motor for flaps? pcv? how can i inspect faulty pcv? or efind where is the problem when sensor is new?
Mine originally went into limp mode and I had to replace the whole Maff sensor unit... have you taken the whole maff sensor off ? and had a closer inspection of the various seals ?
Hi this is the thing, with a older engine the blow by caused by a worn engine is too much and the orange seal no longer worked, it obviously worked when the car was New but the amount of oil drawn from the PCV Valve to the turbo seal is too much and the seal cannot cope, I had already replaced the PCV valve twice and the orange seal 4 times... this is why people opt for the catch can method as the seal no longer works regardless if its New or not.....mrix
Hello, on a whole it was a lovely reliable little car, if you see these cars around even today they all look great, very little rust or corrosion, many look like new cars still, the big let down however was the power, going up steep hills or trying to get away quickly from a junction or roundabout was difficult... I think I had the Corsa for a couple of more years before I had quite a upgrade to my present car which is a 2013 W204 3ltr Mercedes..... mrix
@@mrix Thank you so much for the detailed reply. I bought one yesterday after my Golf's engine packed in. This video was of great help. Hopefully it will serve as a cheap run around from A to B for the next year or so. All the best.
I replace this turbo seal every 2 years, it costs a few € at ME dealer or at AliExpress. I have 250000km and still the original oil cooler, never add oil between regular oil change.
Hi, for me and many others its no longer about replacing the turbo seal as even a brand new one fails to work, have you tried removing yours personally and looked to see how the oils still leaks from it ? in many cases its not going to damage your car but it can often cause a leak etc, in just 1 year I replaced my turbo seal 3 times, nothing really anything wrong with the seal its just because the engine being older has so much more blow by that the seal even when brand new is no longer up to the job... you might have a engine that is in very good condition and has hardly any oil blow by coming from PCV valve, I think its going to be different depending of wear and tear of the engine.... mrix
For me its the original style AMG grill which you can see in my other video, in my mind its a great looking grill... I never really did like the Panamericana grill as you see too much of the engine behind it, I was tempted by the diamond grill......mrix
It's probably one of the better videos done on a car job. Thank you for being thorough and anticipated what question we may have and walking us through it. Now, let's hope this is what needs to be done for code 0720 0721. Do you know if those are the codes you got too?
Hello and thanks, one of the biggest parts of the job is simply removing the wheel arch protectors but you never see that side added in videos, regarding the codes in all honesty I cannot remember what the error codes were, something I should of added to the video at the time.... all the very best fixing yours....mrix
Hello, I have had a rumbling on the engine for quite some time and it was possible to be the transmission mount, after fitting the New mount it never fixed the rumble so I can only assume now its likley more to be the main front engine mounts, however I am pleased to of changed transmission as it was worn etc..... mrix
Hi, its mainly when starting off in low gears so could be around 1500 revs, even the tick over when waiting at a stop creates vibration, when travelling along a motorway everything is perfectly find and smooth, I will need to do the engine mount check whereby you place the car in gear at standstill while pressing the brake and gently increase the accelerator etc to see if there is movement with the engine.
@@mrixif there is any vibration at idle that goes away when you are driving it will definitely be either one or both of the front engine mounts....I had mine done and honestly it was like a brand new car afterwards.... Silky smooth idle, really satisfying job
I have a 62 plate E220 and yesterday while driving I could hear some noise and on breaking I could sense car go zigzag so I took it to mechanic today and he said the rear subframe is damaged due to corrosion. Can you pls let me know how do I go ahead from here? Which template should I fill etc. to get this sorted from MB?
Hello you should no longer have to worry about a template and simply ask for it to be replaced for Free... Mercedes now have replaced so many for Free including mine its now their obligation to replace yours... you would need to go to a official Mercedes garage / dealership.... all the very best having your replaced.....mrix
I have the same engine. I compared febi, blueprint and hengst all very good, very similar and around 60€. All 3 are made in china, but good quality. I also bought one on AliExpress for 25€, but these were just crap. I change all filters every year!
Hi, I'm glad I came across your video. This morning I went in for an alignment and I found out that part of the rear subframe sheared off and a control arm was freely hanging from the wheel! Had I not gone in for an alignment I wouldn't have known about it as it was never and issue and never noticed excessive corrosion on the subframe during the MOT. To make matters worse this must have put unimaginable amounts of stress on all other suspension components but I'm happy to be alive to tell. I have called the local dealership and they will inspect it and then contact headquarters. The problem is a serious one and I'm without a car now!
Sorry to hear your now without a car however I am glad to hear nothing far worst had happened, looking on a positive front you now have the garage to sort the mess out which should be fr Free!... all that very best and thanks....mrix
Thank you! I have called them and they will look at it free of charge on Monday the 15th. I'm sure they will keep the car as it will be deemed unsafe until fixed. I'll let you know afterwards on what the outcome is.
@@mrix Update. MB has agreed to change the subframe free of charge. Now waiting for the parts. I forgot to ask if this one is the same as the original or an updated one, silly me 😅 I guess I was too happy when I heard the good news. 😆
I changed mine on a e class 250 driver rear. no lights on dash when started and then running but traction control would almost put can in limp mode once u press the throttle to go and any normal speed like the car thought it was wheel spinning so had to change it back the the one that came out and was fine and back to normal but now get the warning lights ever now and then
F it, I'm necroing this because they're still doing it. Why would you even think to ascribe to incompetence that which can be explained by malice? We're talking about a huge corporation here, incompetence is not a possibility. I swapped 2 hard glass screen protectors this month alone because of this design "feature".
Hello, all my videos are basically jobs on the car I am required to do and mainly for the DiY mechanics among us, presently I have had no issues with the rare sensors so have had no reason to replace them. I assume there is not much difference in the process.... all the very best .....mrix
Thanks a lot, this is very helpful! The new forks change the geometry quite a bit, right? The new forks seem much longer than the original ones. Also, does the handlebar still fold as nicely as before?
Hi, yes the bike feels a little higher at the front which I dont dislike, its a really relaxed riding style and along with my suspension stem and seat its like riding a couch in comfort, from a cosmetic point of view since the change of the forks we have not known so many people look and stare and state how cool the bikes look, if you purchase one of these bikes you will need to replace the forks if you want more comfortable riding. All the very best...... mrix
@@mrix Thanks for your quick reply! I already have that bike and changed a few parts, but still have the original forks. I have never changed the forks on a bike, but using your detailed tutorial, I think I'll be able to do it. Could you perhaps tell me whether the two 'pipes' of the new fork interfere with the folding mechanism in some way? Du to the design with the two horizontal bars (hope you know what I mean) they extend further upwards than the original ones. I don't suppose it is a problem for folding, but if it is, there are forks that look more like the original ones and I fold that bike often. Thanks again!
Yes technically a catch can is the way to go, unfortunately on the C350 there is no position to add a catch can in the position you mention, I did attach a catch can but it caused no end of black smoke for whatever reason so decided not to go down that route but I could not add a catch can where you suggested unfortunately.....mrix
Thank you so much! Other videos showed snapping it back in, but didn’t point out the fact of it sliding back into the cover and clicking in place. I almost broke mine trying to force it in without releasing it so the clip sticks out past the cover. Much appreciated!
Remember to replace both seals. The turbo inlet and PCV seal when replacing the air intakes Y. Also if there is a lot of oil in the turbo, it is worth replacing the PCV value. Not a huge job, you will need a few small tools to get the DPF differential pressure sensor mount off and out of the way.
Hi, I have replaced the PCV valve with a brand New genuine part and another one from another brand and it never helped at all, the PCV I am sure can no longer cope with older engines and the extra blow by and that`s why many tend to opt for a catch can, however so far so good this end.... mrix
@@mrix that’s unfortunate, some oil blow by is expected but not huge amounts if you are not dumping the throttle. Quick opening and closing of the throttle, does tend to suck up oil from the crankcase
Hello, my brake switch never fixed the problem and I was required to replace the wheel speed sensors which I made another video on, I was hoping it was going to be the more easier option but alias not.... mrix
