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There is really no "sucking" occurring at the roof, there simply is airflow up and out due to heat rising and air expanding from the heat. The flow is controlled by the inlet (soffits) and outlet (ridge vents, box vents, or gable vents). I have gable vents that I'm ditching in favor of ridge vents. I've always thought gable vents combined with some box vents are worthless as rafters trap sections of air, create turbulence, and makes it difficult for the air to move smoothly. As a parcel of air is heated, it gets bigger. How much flow is determined by the total parcel of air, how hot or cold it is and the area / volume of the ridge vent and soffit vents to allow the air to escape. But the other factor is to allow it to escape evenly and not "piecemeal" the way gables and boxes to. They have to be in a balance for the best effectiveness. There's no mechanical action though, it's more of fluid control by how fast or slow you allow the air to flow like turning off or on a sink valve. Secondly, anyone trying to cool their attic, I HIGHLY HIGHLY recommend using 1" or 2" foil backed poly-iso foam panels set 1.5" off the ceiling drywall with edge spacers every 24" made of 2x4 scrap and spray foam seal the panels in place..this cut them 1/2" extra per side for foam locking. I recently did this in my house (I live in downtown Abq NM where we get 100F heat waves) and my temps (with laser thermometer) when OAT was 90F was...get this... 91F on the underside of the foil at 3pm (without ceiling drywall installed yet under the panels!) and 106F on old already set 1/2" drywall (mudded and painted) which had no insulation on top of it yet (no poly-foil, no batting, no blown insulation etc). These temps were taken just 3ft apart from one another on several 90F days with same results. It was a 15-16 degree difference each time. Just absolutely huge. I also plan to staple on reflective foil on the truss rafters on the south side as our house (rectangle shape) faces due east / west. I'm 1000% sold on controlling heat with radiant foil type barriers. In addition to this and installing ridge venting, I'm also fully replacing my soffits and trim and installing "venturi" type baffles I made DIY as I found our soffit vents were completely clogged with blown in fiberglass insulation which spilled over the exterior wall top plates right into the soffit channels. The new baffles, set at the top of the wall plate help to greatly contain and hold back the insulation, and leave a 1.5" tall x 22.5" wide x 16" long venturi channel to guide the soffit airflow up toward the roof. Rather than buying cheap foam or plastic baffles you staple in when the roof is off, I made mine out of 2x4 and plywood. 2x4 has a bevel ripped at the top 1.5" edge to match roof pitch angle and the plywood deck is glued and screwed on top. This may cost a little more than cheap foam baffles but is better long term and wood is also a good insulator. You could also use foil reflective OSB. I used liquid nails and 2" screws to secure them to the top plate and a single 1.25" screw out at the end of the plywood on each side to catch the arm weight of the plywood. Lastly, I spray foamed the side edges to seal in place. Just like with the poly-iso, I cut the plywood 3/8" less per side to leave room for foam sealing and this helps create the venturi effect. All of what I've stated has DRAMATICALLY helped the attic cooling and airflow. I also suggest using the lightest colored asphalt shingle you can live with. Ours are a light cement grey. My final point, is you have to attack all this from many ways, not just one. Copy / Paste / Save in Notepad! Cheers.
I definitely see your point on not putting it straight on to the wood deck, but doesn't putting it on top of the synthetic underlayment defeat the purpose of the peel and stick, which is to totally seal the roof so that no water gets in. Also, wouldn't there be the potential to create moisture between the synthetic membrane and the deck?
Great video thanks for the info. My roof was replaced 7 years ago and I couldn't get the attic temp below 130 in the summer and 40 degrees over ambient temperature in the winter. Last year I asked my roofer if he could replace the ridge vent with a model that has an external baffle also. He said he does use that type now also and did replace mine with it. Now my attic temp is ambient temperature until about noon never getting higher than 20 degrees over ambient and dropping quicker in the evening. Best thing I've done. I had opened my soffits and closed the gables when the new roof was done. Temps before the new roof were even higher.
I wonder if the older peel and stick has the same thing with melting to the shingles up in the Northern States where it does not get as hot or hot for as long as Florida does?
I'm from BIG ice dam country. Ice & Water shield has to go down on the plywood deck or it's worthless. Then install your felt or synthetic over the entire roof. That roof looked like it was an old house that had 1x12 plank sheathing. In that case it needs new 7/16 osb over that. I have a clause in my contract for bad underlayment. Peal and stick also needs to go in the valleys on the plywood. You put that down early in the morning. Before the temperature rises. I do high end roofs.
Great questions. Flat roof material is a lot different than asphalt shingle material. You also have way more options to attach over the peel and stick deck in the future with products like insulation board. With the right ventilation and manufacturer specs, you can absolutely peel and stick directly to the deck on a flat roof. CertainTeed makes a really great flat roof system that is three layers. You can do a nail base and not have to attach directly to the deck also. My main concern with flat roofs is to have positive drainage.
I have been struggling with how to go with this. I really didn't want to stick this to my entire deck knowing that in the future I would need to reroof. Thanks for the tip to nail down synthetic and stick to that.
I had a home with a section of roof on an addition(14'x25') that was 3/12 pitch and asphalt shingles . When i got bids to replace the old roof the roofing contractor would not put shingles back on, only rubber membrane and he had these neat plastic snow brakes for the winter snow and ice.
CertainTeed Flintlastic® SA roofing membrane is a premium, self-adhering SBS modified bitumen roofing material suitable for use in accordance with CertainTeed specifications for most low-slope roof system applications. The roofing industry used different terms mostly depending on what part of the country you're in! We call this rubber for short! Thanks for noticing product details.
Existing roof is near flat (maybe 1/8” in 12”) so we are planning to add tapered polyiso - about 1” to 7” with 1/2” plywood cover which will also help to match slope on adjacent new patio roof. The plywood will be screwed through the insulation to the existing 1x6 t&g deck Should we use nail down underlayment with peel and stick cap sheet vs peel & stick underlayment or direct peel & stick to the plywood?
This is a great question. Yes, if you are attaching to wood, I would use the nail base provided by the manufacturer. CertainTeed makes a low-slope roof system that is three-ply, and I highly recommend it. The first layer is their nail base, the second is base self-adhered, and the third is their cap sheet, which is the final product. If you follow this method, you can remove the roof in the future for replacement. It's a very solid roof system. The key to this is to stagger each layer so the seams don't stack up. Jason R
Up here in the Jacksonville area, thanks for your info, I thought that was the case with peel and stick, that is sticks always to the roof decking, so I won't do that, you saved me lots of time, trouble and money.
There are so many unsolved issues and code requirements in the entire peel-and-stick argument; it's kind of a mess. My main concern is that when the roof gets removed, it could be extremely time-consuming to renail the deck if needed. Additionally, we have personally seen peel-and-stick fail, causing tar to drip from homeowners' roofs into the soffit and around the house. So, I always want a way to remove it if possible. I think your point is good and is better than going directly to the deck. The issue seems to be long-term, and listening to the roofers who have seen huge problems, one of the biggest issues was shingles melting to peel-and-stick and peel-and-stick melting to the deck. Your way solves that. With that said, I am a huge fan of peel-and-stick; I just want to look out for the future and make sure it doesn't affect the homeowner in a negative way. Jason
Excellent information and superb presentation!! My hat is off to you Sir!👍👍👍 (I've been a state-licensed roofing contractor for over 50 years, so I've heard it all and seen it all. In my view, you're a tremendous asset to Planet Earth.)
Only the older peel and stick will stick to the shingles. The current peel and stick no longer sticks to the shingles, because the manufacturers are aware of that and that problem has been fixed. Plywood roof deck is an organic material which requires only 1 side to breathe. As long as you don't block the bottom side of the wood deck from breathing from something like spray foam, you will be safe to install peel and stick directly to the wood deck. Putting synthetic underlayment first to the wood deck will NOT allow breathing between the peel and stick and the wood deck as described in this video. Also it's very important to keep in mind that peel and stick has little adhesion to felt paper and better adhesion to synthetic underlayment, but peel and stick has a much stronger pull strength than synthetic and felt! So if your shingles blow off then, hope and pray that your peel and stick won't blow off the underlayment. All shingle manufacturers state that they require ventilation from the eaves to the attic vents and they don't mention any warranty issues when you put peel and stick directly to the wood deck. I know this because I'm a state licensed roofing and general contractor, civil engineer and I consult heavily with a building biologist and a member of the FL Roofing Association (FRSA).
Yep I’ve already experienced one that 1st gen peel and stick stuck to deck and shingles stuck to peel and stick and had to replace all 140 sheets of plywood but when roof was done it was before renail code so the only way to meet code was to replace the deck but luckily it was a insurance claim so everything was covered under the policy under the old rules , I’m sure under the new rules might be a different story 💸😆 Then I got to test out newer generation peel and stick on another house that was replaced due to a tree falling on house the first go around everything was going well then 3 years later another tree fell on the house and no shingles stuck to peel and stick , both roof replacements were insurance claims so homeowners didn’t care how much roof was , now she has 2 layers of peel and stick protection
Om in Fl., looking at a new roof. I have a couple bids that are using Perl and Stick OVER Plywood Decking. Are u saying, it's GOOD to use these days, because thats a question I had for the Roofer. Question: What about a follow up if needed, a tear off, will the Peel and Stick cause a problem? His answer wasn't clear, he was the salesman for the local Roof Company???? I remember his answer. After tear off, go back over the original Peel and Stick with New Underlayment? Now, I came back and said, that be all good if the Shingles came off clean??
What do you recommend for a shingle shed roof that I don't really want to sink any time or money into? It's currently leaking in at least one spot. Thanks
I feel like that would render it useless. We deal with ice damming where I roof . And if the ice and water shield wasn't fused to the sheathing it wouldn't protect the home from ice damming backing up the shingles
Wouldn't that make it not work ? Peel and stick is supposed to " stick " to the deck I thought . If ice backs up and it's not fused to rhe deck it can still leak
Isn't it supposed to fuse to the sheathing ? We deal with ice and snow where I'm at. And the very first ice dam would have the ice backing up under that synthetic rendering the peel and stick useless
SO I READ EVER COMMENT AND DEBATE. SO ESSENTIALLY ARE YOU SAYING IF I OPT FOR PEEL & STICK. BE SURE TO USE THE "HIGH TEMPERATURE" PEEL & STICK VS THE STANDARD TYPE. ? Plz correct me if I am wrong
I always recommend the high-temp peel and stick. I love every form of peel and stick. However, if you ever attach directly to the deck, I prefer high temp. This also depends on proper ventilation and if it meets code for the final roof product that gets installed. I have seen peel and stick fail and drip around the house, which is a huge mess. I have never witnessed the high temp doing this. It's a superior product and much thicker. I always recommend high temp with metal roofing and other high-end roofing products that last much longer than shingles. Jason
I was told by my roofer that he only recommends peel and stick on something called the valleys. And that peel and stick melts in the heat. However another roofer said...if they use a HIGH PERFORMANCE Peel and Stick...the heat and sticking does not. Whats the difference?
