I live with a driving force to push myself to learn new ways to grow and build on my strengths in the sport I love of ARCHERY. With a DIY and make it happen mentality, I pursue what I love to do every day.
Instead of the wire pointer you could drill the hole for the arrow a little deeper so that the end of the arrow (carbon portion) sits flush with the edge of the block. Then lower the block so that it's closer to the ruler for more accuracy.
I would think a rotary tool that has 1-10 speed settings would probably work as well. as long as I get the right kind and size blade! I think I will have to make one that way and try it out!
One thing for sure is these TAC shoots aren’t for those that haven’t practiced a lot for long distance. Every form flaw gets magnified so much. I enjoyed this same course you are doing. More than the other one we shot. We are into 3-d pretty hard so we used our target set ups. I only lost/broke one arrow on a tree limb. 90% of my practice is mostly to 60 yards sand these crazy long shot’s taught me a few things lol. I’m 72 years old and there’s no way I could do those mountains TAC so this was it . Enjoyed your camera’s perspective here. 👍👍
Привет из России! Вся эта перестановка возможна только если блоки28-30 а растяжка меньше 30 ,а когда блоки 26-28 и растяжка 28 то все сделать ничего нельзя. А жаль . Я это у себя попробовал и понял что это невозможно.
It definitely does not, but you will notice a slight loss in speed. The higher let off will also allow your face pressure to make a greater impact on your POI, so be mindful of that when anchoring.
Are u a 28 inch draw that’s what I am I have number 3cam which puts my cams 28 to 30 Just wondering if I should’ve went with the number 2 cam which is 26 to 28
I am a 28” draw. I would always recommend selecting the cam where your draw length is at the top end of the cam’s available draw length range. Maxing out your cams in the draw length cycle will produce speeds closer to IBO and a more efficient power stroke through the shot.
I have a defiant and I’m new to Hoyt I had a PSE before and the valley was so much nicer. Now that I have the Hoyt once I hit the back wall it want to jump and I can’t get it very steady like I could with the PSE. By doing what you showed is it going to help with that or no?
The bow is normally 75% letoff, with guessing what are you thinking it is now? Or are you saying the valley just feels slightly deeper and the % of letoff stays the same?
You will get a very slight drop in speed if you are increasing the size of the valley and keeping the draw length the same. So, a slightly higher percentage of your draw will be taken up by the "valley" in the cycle. I would estimate that you lose about 8 to 10 fps. Only saying estimate because I have never actually measured it. Hope that helps. Thanks
I will also verify that this video is 100% accurate in its instruction as I do own this same bow and have also made these adjustments. To answer the question about the change in draw length, yes setting your cable stops to the next setting like B will add an extra half inch, thus increasing your valley just as you may want but also probably making the valley longer than you wish. Try it without the limb stop first to get a feel for the difference before bolting on your limb stop. Shoot a few arrows and see. Then you use your limb stop to finely tune how much extra draw you want in your valley, like maybe shaving 1/4” or so back off the draw. make sense? This makes it so you aren’t just adding 1/2” extra valley to your full draw, but keep in mind the limb stop is going to then also give you a very solid back wall. So if you didn’t want the hard wall, you’ve lost that choice with this adjustment. I found on my bow (without this adjustment) that if I let up on my back tension even slightly, the bow will take off and try to rip my arm out of the socket when I try to fight back on it. I’m also using a Trueball Fulcrum Flex hinge release which made all this even more frightening when the bow rolled over on me during a draw. Once I changed over to this, the bow now has a much more forgiving valley and is a pleasure to hold at anchor. I do also favor the solid back wall of the limb stop so I’m good with that. I can also now hold at anchor pretty much indefinitely (which I could not do before) and my draw length is only roughly 1/4” longer after setting my limb stop. Also, if you do not have someone to help you adjust the position of your limb stop then I suggest doing what I did and build yourself a draw board or buy one. I was able to draw the bow out on my draw board to ‘exactly’ the point in draw where I wanted the limb stop and then tighten it up there. Perfect! As a final note, Hoyt has corrected the aggressiveness of the cams on this bow in the 2018 RX1, but they changed more than the cams, the limbs and bow design also changed to accommodate the nicer valley they added. Unfortunately, you’d have to also trade up for the new bow, which I have not. Oh yes, and one final thing I also did to gain that last bit of confidence and control was to lower my draw weight on the bow. However, that is a very personal performance choice you’ll need to make on your own.
Don’t forget if you mess with the cam modules on this bow to use a Torque wrench set to 15 in. Lbs. to tighten them back up. (As specified in the manual.)
Awesome video! How did you build that cart? I have the FS10T and even the shorter kayak is a pain to carry any sort of distance the water. So I'm looking for cheap ideas to make that task easier.
Jared Miller the cart is made from 1 inch PVC pipe. I do not use it anymore however because it has fallen apart under the load of the kayak. I have worked on a cart made from metal conduit but have not needed one lately since I can pull right up to the water in most of my spots. When I do finish I will try to make a video about it
Bass Coast Central I've sat on the cooler just never stood on it because I don't think the lid is strong enough. Maybe with a root molded cooler like a yeti you could
BeardedYakMan and it works fine in saltwater as well? Also, how far have you gone with this kayak in salt water? Im about to buy this same kayak mostly for saltwater fishing.
Jaziel Diaz it's not an issue in the salt at all. It is stable enough for any conditions I've been in up to 15 mph winds. I have gone over two miles in the course of a day without going to shore. The main thing you'll be fighting with is it is a tank. You will get tired from paddling unless you have the wind at your back. So I'd say that is the only limiting factor I've found as to the distance I could travel. I have gone prolly 250 to 300 yards off the beach on it when there was a north wind and waves were down. You'll definitely find that the work it takes to paddle this barge is the only limiting factor because you will get tired.
Jaziel Diaz no problem bud. Just make sure you ALWAYS ALWAYS rinse the boat off with fresh water after you use it in salt. The hardware for the hatches and seat and bungee straps are not the best quality and rust will develop but that is an easy way to make it last as long as possible. I recently put a depth finder on it and hopefully I can get a video up soon about how I did all of that.
Nice setup....looking to do a set up video on my 2016 model. I like your anchor and drift sock setup looks simple think I will borrow your idea for mine.
I'd give it a solid 9 because of its stability and amount of on deck storage. I love everything about it. The only downfall it has is that it is a tank so you won't be paddling very fast and tracking log distances without getting pretty exhausted. Otherwise it does everything I like it to. I like to stand up and have never lost my balance on it
