This channel is for intermediate and advanced guitar players who don't want to sit through five minutes of someone explaining how to play a power chord. Follow along and learn some kickass riffs.
What you show here is just not correct. And I'm intermediate player at best. Your terminology is backwards regarding the screw, and after adjustment you re-tune the open string THEN check intonation at 12 and keep adjusting until both are good (or usually split the difference if you can't get it perfect, depending on guitar) Edit: i also adjust my guitars in playing position since that is the conditions I'll be playing it, not flat on a table
if you're going to explain adjusting/correcting neck relief on any stringed instrument with a truss rod to those who don't know, then it's a good idea to start by noting that the strings themselves need to be, at least, slackened considerably before tightening or loosening anything. Like that you aren't fighting with the nut when turning it. If not, then unnecessary pressure on the nut and rod can result in a damaged neck
So the same force gravity that holds us all to this spinning rock we our indoctrinated to believe in, is strong enough to pull your strings down on your guitar but putting a towel under the neck stops that? Why not just intonation your guitar in playing position? Ps the earth is flat
This is incorrect information and the exact opposite of what you're supposed to do. When your intonation is flat it means that the DISTANCE between the 12th FRET and the SADDLE is TOO LONG. You should have turned the screw COUNTERCLOCKWISE (loosened) so that the saddle moved TOWARDS the neck, not away from it. Yes the pitch will go even flatter when you do that because you're loosening the whole string but the intonation will be sharper than before. Just re-tune your string. When doing intonation, think DISTANCES, not what the pitch is doing when you're adjusting the saddle. You must make the DISTANCE from the SADDLE to the 12TH fret, and from the NUT to the 12TH FRET the SAME. I can tell your high E is way too flat just by looking at the position of the saddle. It should be slightly in front of the B string, not behind it. You also don't need to check that the open string and 12th harmonic are in tune. They always will be. Asides from that, your recommendation to support the neck and use the neck pickup is right but I find it more practical to just hold the guitar like I'm playing it while doing the intonation.
The ONLY way to truly Intonate your Guitar, is with a Strobe Tuner! I don't understand al these videos with people using these "inaccurate" little tuners... Not to be condescending...But Too few you find here on youlube set their guitars up it like a Pro! There is WAAAY more to it.. That guy from Ann Arbor Guitar knows what he's doing..(not affiliated ) David Collins is his name... Also for the content creator here, he has a real good in-depth video series about the subject! Anyway, thanks for the Video!👍
Great explanation. Didn't know the STRINGS need time to pull the neck. TOO tight for the card to fit. Loosen a 1/4 today, check and do more tomorrow if it still grabs the card ( capo on neck finger on 12 fret. Thanks
3/16 and 1/8. Is not standard for all strats. I have a 2005 American Deluxe SSH and the closest fit Allen is 7/64. Every model can be different. When you say turn to the right or turn to the left depends on if you are standing near the body or near the top of the neck.
Notes:Capo on 1st fret, finger holds down 12th, test 10th fret. If bouncy, then forward bow, action is high, turn right to tighten. Retune before and after each adjustment.
Very good explanation. My Tech has retired so now its up to me and this helps. From many viseos my understanding is press down and hold where the neck meets the body? Thank You
sir thank so much it was easy to understand i will try this without being afraid 😀 as a guitarist i need to know how to do this and you explained very well 👍🏼👌👌👌👌👌
at least not that idiotic design where you have to dismount the neck. some idiots pay 4 grands for fuc.in "custom shop" which you cannot adjust just like that.
The truss rod nut on my Strat takes a 5mm Allen wrench. It's a perfect fit. A 3/16" (4.7 mm) wrench will work, but it's a little loose. If you don't want to risk eventually ruining the nex nut, I suggest going with a 5 mm wrench. My bet is the nut is metric, not imperial.
Hi there! Can I know the size of the allen key that fits to the truss rod of my Strat? I really need to buy allen for it but I didn't know the size. I need the mm and inch size, thank you!🙂
@@backwoods6050 This dude claims 3/16, but some are 1/8" .... however, I thinkhe misquoted. It seems to me it would be maybe 1/4" But, different manufacturers at different time periods used different sized truss rod nuts. ESP/LTD are all 4mm, for example
After each adjustment of your trussrod make sure you retune it then check it, if you have to adjust it more repeat the process. The rest he explains is 100 percent right.
