@archerash6695 yes and the transmission and diffs are metal. Cheers!

@SonnyPaints First charge only took me about 3 hours from what I remember. With that battery and charger it's not as precise as a lipo nor is it as volatile so they may come with more charge than you'd expect. Not with this truck but on the Arrma Gorgon, same thing, Nimh battery, it was like an hour and a half. But even after a first run down it charges up pretty quick. Nothing like the balance charge times that say 12 hours for Traxxas. Maybe 5? At most 7? I can't remember one taking that long though.

Oh and if you don’t mind recommending good batteries cause I literally know nothing just getting into the hobby

I feel ya! First, apologies for my late response! No idea why I didn't see this notification! Yeah so I love the SCX10ii as well and was seriously upset when they discontinued the Honcho without making a new version. Especially because it was like kicking sand in my face when they did the SCX6 with a Honcho body. Like really? As for Carisma crawlers they're definitely harder to tweak but make great trail trucks. I'm running a Holmes Hobby Crawlmaster of some sort, I'd have to go look at the series, in one of their trucks I've worked and you can't go wrong with Holmes's stuff. I myself have a few Hobbywing set ups that are esc/Holmes combos and a few bashers that are all Hobbywing. Thanks for the comment, sorry for the late reply, Cheers!

@editprevent Great question and some general knowledge. But first things first let's go to what may be the issue. Sometimes at the factory the connections are just wrong. They do thousands of these. So reversing your transmitter wire on the combo esc/receiver may do the trick. Just take the throttle wire out and put it in backwards. Try the car again. The normal order of things would be check controller for throttle reverse (don't think the Gorgon has that, mine is now in a DX3) Check that brushed motor wires are not reversed into esc Check that transmitter is in neutral positions when turning on Check transmitter wire is in the proper orientation (it may be wrong from factory.) Check vehicle is not in training mode Check vehicle is not at throttle calibration of 50, 75% If new transmitter is used other than factory do hard reset and make sure all transmitter outs are in neutral position Best of luck, and thanks for the question!

Thanks man, I hadn't found any info on this issue. It seems to be more of a brushless associated problem, from what I've read.I appreciate your time and knowledge. Will try your suggestions.

@editprevent It's usually reversed wires with brushless or someone put their diffs back in backwards which is possible on many models. The brushless motors are actually not directional. The esc decides the order the magnets are engaged to establish direction. So flipping those wires around just changes the direction. They don't have a ground wire per se. Those 3 all provide power using phase. It gets more complicated than that but that's the jist. Let me know how it goes. Can't ever rule out a bad motor or esc.

And it may, I'd have to go check. It's been awhile since I had either out. Been just running my Ecto and Zuul for awhile now. Got the Stance here from Vanquish I'd really like to get to know. It's all time. Well...and money. Guess it's more like 2 parts money. I'm addicted to collecting everything rc. It's a diagnosable problem.

@redvikinghobbies the stance is a very good value for the dollar, and, with some good tires and the proper balance, it is a fantastic crawler. Thanks for the comparison and quick reply.

The Bugs are great! Awesome comment! Made my day cause I love mine!

Yeah I didn't like the pre-worn look of the Rat Rod so I never ordered one. This one was so slick looking I had to have it. Thanks for the comment! Cheers!

@@redvikinghobbies no problem dude!

Took a beating and really impressed!

You know when this truck first came out, like if you take a look at the date on the video, there really weren't many around. Now it's available in a few places and the body on some different chassis. I think that's what attracted me to it in the first place - looked like a mini-outcast. Now I'm hearing there's a chance we may see a mini Outcast in the Arrma Grom series. Guess we'll know after Armageddon this weekend. I'd definitely prefer that to the Granite and Typhon. Thanks for the comment. Haven't taken the truck out in a bit and deserves a run! Cheers!

I actually figured that out after a bit. I've actually been running it once in awhile on 3s on a better piece of pavement and have been through several sets of tires. Thing can be a blast!

Hey man, I removed the last post because you got this one in and I replied. I had to reread the gyro instructions and play with the car a bunch to get it but realized it after a few uses. It still doesn't have the adjustments you'd need for really good drifting but it's a great starting place! Thanks again for your comments! Cheers!

@@redvikinghobbies yea no worries bro I just got one and had to do the same thing. I use the second set of rubber tires it comes with and it does great the only thing is the modulation between the radio and receiver aren't the greatest I'm probably gonna switch it too a dumbro and see how that works plus a better servo besides that i think it will be perfect for a little drifting monster. Thanks for hitting me back we gotta keep this life and hobby alive. Cheers bro

God dag! They are right? I was surprised. Ordering up the Monster Truck one in blue! Lol. I love a great budget basher! Thanks for the sub!

Thanks so much! Cheers!

It really is!

Yeah, caught me off guard for the price. It seems it's a mixed bag. I put links in the description but I don't think all the resellers know there's a regular and a turbo. So I got a Turbo for 129.99. Bit that's awhile back. But it looks like Amazon and Ebay had the same thing going on and you could find a turbo pretty cheap. Thanks for the support!

Great little car. I know that many of us in the hobby buy directly from China and get some amazing deals. I try to support my local hobby store but often times Ebay and Amazon have much better prices. The hobby gets quite expensive if your not careful. So many cool cars but you can't own them all and the low budget ones are often times more fun. @@redvikinghobbies

Well I'll tell ya if you upgrade it to brushless AND CHANGE THE TIRES it's awesome. I have 2 brushless and ordered the kit for this one abd never did it. Tell you what. Soon as I finish a few more cars and the Gorgon I'll do it and post it up! Thanks for the comment! Cheers!

@@redvikinghobbies well I am having fun with the stalk engine that it comes with with these Zeee Batteries 🔋 man this this fly lol

But did you subscribe? 🤣 Just teasing. Thank you for your comment!

Welp this one fails but Horizon is sending a new motor/esc. Now I'll have to decide whether to put it in or put in the brushless I already ordered 😂 Thanks for the support JJ!

@redvikinghobbies definitely put in the brushless motor, it will perform better at higher speed. I haven't played with my Typhon for a while, maybe I should charge up the batteries and have a blast again. I still play with my crawlers from time to time, they don't require a lot of space so I tend to play with them more often than the high speed ones.

Looks esc failed.

It's much easier in 1/10th scale not just to work on (although you wouldn't have a problem with your models) but to tell which upgrades worked out for you because you tend to add them slower and try less. In 1/24th and 1/18th there's so many variables that you're not able to feel that you wind up running them sometimes and not noticing if you made things better or worse. I'm speaking from 24th scale experience but many of those parts fit 1/18th. So for instance after you put brass in a couple places and feel good about the tires you might question which shocks or servo to use, swap them, and have a net result. And you're like hmmm... okay try this another way. With 1/10th you'll know instantly how those shocks or a motor or servo are changing things. And in 1/10th I gotta give 50% to the right tires and foams. It's that high. It's just not a 1/18th.

Got that one too! Great rig!

@redvikinghobbies very very nice.. now I'm jealous. 😊😄

I'll have to see when I run the Trx4m tomorrow! I think as far as 1/18th crawlers they were wise to have the $99.99 introductory offering and have the upgrades ready knowing what we did with our SCX24. We couldn't leave them alone! And they were quite impressive out of the box. After the SCX24 when FMS hit the market they released that red pickup and the 6 wheeler but neither one gave us many upgrade options. Of course later models would and they still have some cool trucks. But before the TRX4m Axial released the UTB18 to some amazing reviews. I was done with small crawlers and back to 1/10th so when the Trx4m came out I refused to buy it. As a matter of fact I had ordered a car and was picking it up when they got them in and refused to get one. I didn't want to be straining my eyes looking for a screw on the floor anymore. And then they just released more of them and then the high trail. Still I didn't bother. However; I'm a huge Redcat fan. Love those guys. Have a Danchee, Everest, Gen 8, Gen 8 Axe, Gen 9, Ascent, Ascent Fusion Pro, and the Ascent18. And that's just to name the crawlers. So between someone asking me to buy an 18 and it being the last of the Ascents for my collection I did it. Next day bought a High Trail Trx4m Special Edition K10. Found everything I could want for the Trx4m but not too much yet outside of Redcat for the Ascent18. Let's say extended metal axles for instance. So I'll use brass spacers. I don't want to speak to the radius until I've compared a few but the vehicle is quite light. People forget that companies like Kyosho tried 1/24th trucks but it didn't stick like the SCX24. There was just something about them and they were super impressive out of the box. But Redcat knew this audience and knew we were gonna go nuts modifying them. I think that's why they're a little less impressive unboxed but for the 70 dollars we saved not buying Traxxas they know we'll just spend it on the upgrades. Stay tuned for the next video on the Trx4m and let me know your thoughts. I'm doing the Typhon Grom after that and hopefully will have enough bench time to have made some sick mods on the Ascent18 vs TRX4m video to follow. Thanks for your support, comments, and sub! It means a lot! Cheers!

@@redvikinghobbies thank you for the thorough reply, quite accurate too! I'm looking forward to more videos.

There's no toe out adjustment. There's 2 aluminum sets of steering parts that may help, steering servo bracket and steering block hub assembly. The tie rod/turnbuckles for the 16431 may fit but I haven't tried. We used to lengthen our Slash control arms for dirt oval with a heat gun so thr same could be attempted here if one is close to where you need it but if the one you got isn't even, both slightly toe out, you'd need to replace the parts which in this case I'd go with the aluminum. It's a fun truck bit not highly adjustable. Thanks for the question!

Your's probably have grey two steering links, like in my Citroen, just pop one screw out and twist it out. There is a threaded rod inside. The toe-out out the box is very, very.. mesmerizing :)

* grey two-piece steering links..'

I'm doing the Trx4m video now. Probably ready Sunday. I'll list them there and then copy and paste them into this description at the same time. The latest they'll be up is Monday. In the meantime on Redcat, if you follow my link, go to the Ascent18 and down the page click on parts. Won't say upgrade, but sure enough it's 4 pages of Redcat upgrades. Otherwise most of what I've gotten for the two vehicles, with stuff still coming, has been Injora on Amazon. Sorry I didn't list them for this video. The video after the Trx4m will be the Typhon Grom and hopefully I'll be done my 1/18th crawlers by end of next week. I'm in the eclipse totality area in Texas and have a busy Tuesday Wednesday but I'll do my best. Thank you for the question! Cheers!

At max speeds on and off the throttle expect it to start slowing at about 14 minutes. If you're easier with it it'll trail off around 19 but still run a bit. But the average on that nimh is about 20 minutes with stop and go. Can't say I've ever ran one full throttle to see how long until it completely died.

Thanks so much! Greatly appreciated. Hope you enjoy it! Cheers!

Awesome man! Sorry I didn't know about those codes. Haven't had that experience yet

I'm not quite sure because I've never had a gps pairing issue and unfortunately don't have time right now to troubleshoot that issue so I contacted Hypergo for you and am waiting for a reply to that problem. If I get the answer I'll create a link for you to follow that has further instructions. Sorry I'm not much help with this issue yet but we'll see if we can figure it out!

FREAKING AWESOME!!! Enjoy man!

Dude I have no idea. I tried to put that GPS on another car with zero success because the transmitter, gps, and esc are all tied together and the ESC was way to small for the new car (Rustler VXL.) I have no clue with how well that worked it isn't on all their cars!

Yeah, sometimes at the factory they get the wiring wrong. Take off the esc and swap the blue and yellow wire. If it's not blue and yellow don't worry. It only reverses the way the motor spins. You probably like any other reasonable person matched the wires. Usually it's just the sleeve colors don't match. Wish I could send you a pic but it looks like there's a space on the ESC that's left open in between yellow and blue. If you want to email me at redvikinghobbies@gmail.com a picture of yours or just a note I'll send a pic back. I did 3 cars in this vid. The first two were duds so im assuming it's the Hosim version of the Hypergo but either way I'd swap the wires into the esc disregarding color without the battery in and start again. You don't need to touch the motor side because it'll just spin the opposite way and require a solder job. Easier to just swap connections.

instagram.com/reel/C6hKmlQMdlT/?igsh=MTRuZjJvbW8xOTdzZw==

Yeah, I wound up putting on limiting straps. Fun trucks. Thanks for the comment! Cheers!

You're most welcome! Cheers!

Nice! Enjoy! Gonna have a blast!

Thanks so much! Cheers!

Nope. It's got a 130 amp smart esc with overvolt protection. I wouldn't run a drag battery in it cause it would probably trip it but I've run 120c without issue. Just gonna suggest a real rear sway bar from vitavon to get the most out of it but that's a good motor esc combo without crazy gearing and you'll be fine. If the overvolt failed and the motor burned up spektrum will replace it although it takes a bit. That said I've had zero issues with batteries with the Hammer so far. Thanks for the question! Cheers!

@@redvikinghobbiesThanks man! Just grabbed one on sale, couldnt beat the price. Ill look into the sway bar. Im torn between 2s or 3s, both 120c 9000mah. I want longevity and it to not be as fast, as ill be in the mountains. Would finding one with a 100C discharge be better or is there not much difference between 100C and 120C? thanks again man! New to the hobby.

@Cranklotus You're not going to be able to tell the difference between the 100 and 120 unless you have a bunch of batteries to run it on and speed test it. The C rating is the continuous discharge. However all batteries aren't made the same. There's a lot involved but basically most of these companies dont guarantee their C-rating. They say "Up to 120c." And the ones coming in generic form from overseas are hit or miss. There are brands like Pro-Tek and Onyx that test every battery and you'll notice the price will be much higher. So the rule of thumb and the reasons people buy higher C ratings is because the dump rating, which is about twice the C rating, is what makes that car boogie. 120c means a potential dump of 240c. Depending on the kind of driving you're doing this could be good or bad. Drag batteries have high continuous discharge because you're only going so many feet. Bashers like high C ratings because when they punch it they get that air they crave. But when you look at racers leaning towards Protek and spending twice the amount on a single battery it's because they test them because they want a smooth continuous discharge with low ohms for smooth power. A competition crawler may want a climbing rig and light battery and use a drone battery and heavy trail hitters may run their esc off it's own power supply for hard steering. The Hammer Rey is a U4 type vehicle. That ESC can use up to a 4s battery. It's a big rig. You want it to be able to climb and sprint and last awhile. That's where mah comes in. The more milliamps the more runtime you have as long as you're not constantly punching it. On the same battery at 9000 milliamps you could get 20 plus minutes or 10 depending on how long that throttle is at full press. Best bet is to have multiple batteries as you continue on this journey in the hobby and see what you like. There's a lot out there. A good charger will tell you how every cell charges and discharges so as a beginner get used to looking at how evenly the batteries charge and always remember to storage charge/discharge for maximum performance. I keep mine, of which there's a crazy amount, stored in lipo bags and boxes at all times at about 35%. Hope I helped a bit. Batteries are tough. I don't review many individually. Jaytee RC does a lot of different battery runs if you wanna see someone who does a ton of runs with multiple batteries. He's got a lot of footage. Best of luck and thanks again!

Awesome grab! Thinking about getting another myself!

It's a crazy good deal!

Thanks so much! Cheers!

Hope you enjoy it! It's a blast! Cheers!

@@redvikinghobbies yeah.. I have so many cars.. I don't get the time to run em all

Ordered mine a few days ago, can't wait to give it a go!!!! Can't argue with $200 off

It is a 1/10 scale, is 1/10 of the 1/1 vehicle, if the 1/1 vehicle is hude then the 1/10 is going to be huge too

Nah. Not in this case. Losi made the Hammer Rey their longest Rey Wheelbase. They really don't care about the actual scale on this one but the scale details. It's actually bigger than their 1/10th Gravedigger. Currie's JLU is taller and completely customized but its wheelbase isn't that long because of the crawling part of U4. RC4WD's U4 Miller Motorsports car is closer to 1/10th

Thanks for the extra info! Yes Team Associated does! It's funny because my last few vehicles had so little info with them I forgot about their exchange program. It is a good program if you know what you want to swap out. I don't think they advertise that much anymore. Maybe when Thunder Tiger purchased them they decided not to press that point. Those vehicles used to come with a sheet for parts exchange you could fill out. I think it's a pdf. Comparing it to the power up program is fair if you know what you need. I think Traxxas does a good job describing their Power Up program with their cars that have this available. I'll make sure to mention it on my Team Associated review. As for the steering reverse I was just talking about the base controller. I use reverse steering for one handed driving. I have a theory as to why I think reversing for one hand is easier my only point was it's not on the transmitter. And it is in the ESC guide probably but this video was just an introduction to the Stampede. I did it after the Arrma Gorgon and specifically didn't mention the Gorgon because I wanted the review to just be about this particular car. Lastly, and it's why I thank you for your comment, I don't script anything or do a ton of videos so I often miss things or just don't mention something unless it is on my mind. It's good that you brought up those two points! Take care! Cheers!

Nice! Welcome to the club! Thanks for your feedback! Cheers!