New Channel please like and subscribe. I’m a mobile mechanic. I’m going to do videos that help to show what you need for the job in a quick video. I feel most people know the basics of mechanical work. They just want to see the difficulties to the different types of cars and services.
No, it did not. I actually kind of messed up a couple times and I had to remove it probably about three times and it was perfect and I’ve done this on several different models.
Cramped little spaces that won’t allow tools to be inserted. Annoying and time consuming. The hardest part for me was removing that crankshaft pulley 😡
I have a question. I have a 2006 and my key is stuck and my car wont crank or start. The gear indicator light is not illuminated also. Could this be the reason?
Thanks for giving the dimensions! by the way, I removed the bracket at the junkyard to get the old one out because I didn’t know any better. When I went to remove my wife’s alternator, I didn’t remove the bracket. You do have to remove both the pivot and the tension bolts of course, but after that you can wiggle the alternator free and then push down really hard against the air conditioner line to get the bottom pivot free. Then you torque it hard counterclockwise and push down again and then clockwise to get the adjustment bolt hole flange around the bracket. You do have to remove the adjustment bracket bolt screw thing but not the bracket itself. Once you’ve torque it clockwise you can access first the green connector and squeeze the finger grip thing to release it with a lot of wiggling, then you can pivot the alternator slightly more while pulling it towards the driver side fender and access the 12 mm power stud nut. There’s a dumbass cable harness wire tie that will still be holding it on, very very carefully cut that thing loose. Then you should be able to snake the old alternator up and out
Hey if really like your opinion I bought a can of this could I use it on my paint between my windows of my truck it’s a 05 Silverado or should I just try to find some actual Vinyl wrap ?
Old videeo but just to add a little as i just did mine on a 2015. Check before you order your pump they can be 3 bolt or 4 bolt pumps and on the turbo pipes be sure to clean the inside of them and the outside of where they go otherwise they may blow off even with tighenting the hose clamps. Guess you dont have to ask how i know.
I'm so tired of rams cheap designs. just did lifters, cam, exhaust manifold, oil pump, water pump. Get on the road and 100kms later I'm hearing some kind of rattling everytime I hit a slight bump or crack in the road
@justanothermobilemechanic7997 will do. It really triggered me driving to work today. When I get home in the am I'll get crawling under her and take a good look. Sounds like it's comming from the driver side. Currently doing research. Sway bar, struts, caliper, cv axle. Sounds like I got my work cut out for me. Not interested in hitting a shop again anytime soon. My last bill was 8500$ on a 2014 with less than 100k kms that's absolute nonsense.
Im working on an 08 outback 2.5, same body style as yours, and unfortunately the cam sensor bracket is cast into the cam plate, so you do have to take off the valve cover and potentially valvetrain to get it. Why subaru, why?!
why you aint start from the very beginning, cmon my guy. You had to do it anyway, ahh. Youre the only guy with a quality 2019 V6 video and you half ass it, dude.
As someone who used this method just this morning , I don't recommend this method. When the lower strut mount is removed, the spring will want to stretch out and the strut mount will begin to press down on the CV axle. Also If the assembly is in good shape, it will want to stretch out without that lower mount and will work against you as you try to lift the strut out of the mount. You also don't have room to finagle the mount off because you can damage the boot. Third, the downward pressure on the axle shaft will damage the joint
