Hello, thank you for watching. I don't believe Elena does tutorials, but you can visit her Instagram page to see more of her work: instagram.com/alluredecoration/

Hi there - although we didn't cover ice cream or popsicles in our tutorial, you can definitely place the molds in the freezer for frozen items (like we did to create ice). It might be easier to release an ice cream or popsicle from a flatter mold so you can pop it out (like the dinosaur in our video) I'm concerned ice cream or a popsicle might break trying to pull it out of a deeper mold (like our bunny mold or the baseball bat mold we used for ice)

Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching ❤

Hi Joyce - yes, all materials should be fully dried/cured before applying resin. Moisture can react with the resin to create cloudy areas, oil can prevent the resin from adhering, and offgassing of compounds in art materials (even in acrylic paint) can react with the resin and cause issues such as premature yellowing. Best to allow all materials the time to fully cure. If the oil pastel is fully cured, it may not require a sealant for the pastel itself, but the substrate you apply to it may benefit from a sealant - for example, most pastel paper is quite porous and will absorb the resin and create dark, wet spots. We always recommend testing the resin on a scrap piece of artwork first before you resin your final piece. Testing first will ensure you know exactly what results to expect :)

@@Artresin thank you for this. Do you have a recommended cure time for oil pastel? I want to experiment with mark-making using oil pastels on top of a resin coated painting, then applying a final resin coat to the entire surface.

@@joycegehl4604 Hi Joyce, I would check with the oil pastel manufacturer for their cure time recommendations and go from there. I would imagine that the thickness of the pastel application also affects the cure time. Oil pastels do tend to stay somewhat soft, so I would err on the side of caution and use a spray sealant (choose one that's compatible with oil pastel) over top first, beofre you apply the resin. This is just in case any of the binders or wax in the pastel react with the resin, preventing it from adhering. The sealant will create a barrier to help avoid this.

Hi there - sorry to hear you had some curing issues! If the resin is sticky, but pretty dry (like the sticky side of tape), you can just pour a fresh coat on top and it will bond with the sticky resin. But, if the resin is runny and wet, you need to scrape off as much of that wet material as you can. Then pour a fresh coat over top. Hope that helps!

@@Artresin thank you so much 🙏🏻🙏🏻

Great question! It really depends on the brands you're using. Alcohol ink is reactivated by solvents, so if the resin you're using contains something like benzyl alcohol or other solvents, it can cause the ink to bleed. ArtResin doesn't contain any alcohol or other solvents, so we don't find this to be an issue. You can see in this video that we poured directly over the alcohol ink work and it turned out beautifully. The only time I did smudge the ink is when I was putting some ArtResin over an alcohol ink design on ceramic tile. I was spreading with a little spatula and accidentally scraped the tile while spreading which caused the ink to smudge. :( Best idea always is to do a little test on a scrap piece to see what the reaction is like between the resin and the brand of inks you're using. Many artists do seal their alcohol ink to err on the side of caution with a product called Kamar Varnish. It's a spray varnish (Krylon makes one) that doesn't contain any solvents to reactivate the ink. It dries clear and is compatible with resin. Hope that helps!

Ooo, yes. This helps a lot. I've made items with resin and used inks once before but never together. Thanks x

Hi Becky, sorry to hear that. If some parts of your molded piece cured properly and other parts are soft, it usually because the mixture wasn't totally blended and the unmixed resin/hardener got poured into the mold. This is almost always the parts on the bottom and sides of the mixing container that didn't get scraped enough, but then got scraped out when pouring. It's trickier with a molded piece - the resin inside will most likely never harden up, but you could try applying a top coat over the whole piece just to provide a strong outer shell. It's easy on something flat like a coaster. A 3D shape might be a little more challenging - but worth trying to salvage your piece!

@@Artresin tyvm

That's good to hear - I guess I didn't mix mine long enough, because I ended up with a lot of those specks. :) The main issue with food coloring as a resin tint is that it's not light fast ... meaning it will fade quite quickly and the color of your project will drastically change. Best bet for longevity and saturation is to use a pigment based tint of your choice - whether that's a paste, a pigment powder, or a liquid colorant - and, as you correctly said, to mix it really well :)

Any dishwash liquid will work, but if you can find coarse salt, it works better than regular table salt which tends to dissolve quickly. That's why poppy seeds are a good alternative. But I've been using this method lately - rubbing a little bit of vegetable oil in my hands to dissolve the resin first - and then I follow up with warm water and dishwash liquid. It works really well and you don't need salt or poppy seeds :)

We've also worked really hard not to take part in the industry standard animal testing requirements for resins - the truth is that most epoxy resins are tested on animals. Here's a blog with more info: www.artresin.com/blogs/artresin/artresin-is-cruelty-free-epoxy-resin

Glad you found it helpful!

HI Marleene, So glad you found the video helpful! There are several different types of resin available - including epoxy resin (like ArtResin) which comes in 2 parts that you mix together in equal amounts and leave to dry for 24 hours. There is also UV Resin, which is what you may have seen in videos. UV Resin is already mixed, so comes in a single bottle, and requires a UV light to cure. UV Resin is often used as a topcoat on small projects like jewellery that can fit under the UV light. It's important to use the right resin depending on what you'd like to make: for coating artwork, an epoxy resin like ArtResin will give the best results - it's also has much less of an odor and is non-toxic, no fumes, no VOCs etc compared to UV Resin. For small pieces like jewelry or charms, a lot of people find UV Resin very easy and quick. But UV Resin will be difficult for pouring into a coaster mold or for coating a piece of art. For pouring thick items, a deep pour or casting resin is best because it will have far less bubbles. Here's a blog with some more info about the different types of resin: www.artresin.com/blogs/artresin/types-of-resin-and-their-uses

@@Artresin Wow !thank you for all this info !!

Hi there The solution depends on why the resin is cloudy. Resin is cloudy when it's cold, in which case you can warm the capped resin bottles in a warm water bath before you measure and mix. Resin can also become cloudy if it's too humid out or if moisture/water gets mixed in. In this case, you can't take the water out so you'll need to start over. Resin can become cloudy if it's whipped, so make sure you mix slowly. If the resin has cured cloudy, you can try sanding down as much as you can and then applying a fresh coat. Here's a blog with more information that might help: www.artresin.com/blogs/artresin/cloudy-resin

@@Artresin item that I make is cloudy is there any solution

@@sapanatomar4735 I'm not sure why the resin is cloudy. Is it cloudy when you mix it? Or cloudy after it cures?

@@Artresin after cure

@@sapanatomar4735 if the resin is cloudy because you poured into a mold that has a matte interior, then you can brush on a thin coat of resin to restore the gloss. If the resin is cloudy for another reason (an additive or there was moisture in the resin or in the air while the resin cured), then you will have to sand down the resin. Wear a dust mask and be careful not to damage the artwork below the resin. Then pour a fresh coat. You might not get rid of the cloudiness 100%, but it will help.

Hi Angelique - so glad you enjoyed the tutorial! Sue purchased this copper bracelets here in Canada but I imagine you'd be able to find them in Australia too. Look up suppliers that make metal blanks and tags for stamping etc. Then she used a spray primer so that the ink would adhere.

Hi there - it should work, but you'll need to brush it on in a very thin layer. Resin has the viscosity of honey and it self-levels, so it can pool at the lowest point and create drips. You'll want to brush a very small amount to avoid this. You may need to do multiple coats. The resin won't adhere to plastic, but if you spray with spray paint first, the paint will provide some tooth for the resin to adhere to. I would definitely test on a scrap pair of glasses first before attempting your final project, just so you know what results to expect :)

@@Artresin Thank you for your prompt response which is very helpful :)

@@e.l.p.i.d.a happy to help you!

@@Artresin I'm guessing you can sand the resin. Might be easier in this case to dip them then sand off the drop at the end?

@@e.l.p.i.d.a yes, you can sand the resin. The idea behind sanding is to scuff up the surface to create tooth for the fresh resin to adhere to (otherwise there is a chance the two layers may separate over time). You could certainly dip the glasses in resin and sand off the drips. It will be scratched in the areas you sand, so you can restore the gloss by brushing on a very small amount of resin. The only thing to be aware of with the dipping method is that you'll require a much larger volume of resin than you'll actually be using, but if you're doing several pairs of glasses or the results are better, than it's worth it!

Hi there - this work was done by the artist @mai_artroom. She doesn't do tutorials, but if you check out her Instagram page, she has lots of behind the scenes reels showing parts of her process. To make these roses, she places a drop of pink alcohol ink on yupo. I think Mai is using one of those Ampersand boards but you could just use Yupo paper) To create the petals, she uses diluted gold alcohol ink (gold ink with diluted with isopropyl alcohol or if you're using Pinata inks, use their Claro Extender. Isopropyl alcohol doesn't work great with Pinata.) and a heat gun to form the petals. You can see her technique here: instagram.com/reel/C6JUszKPAsI/?igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA== Then once your alcohol ink design is dry, you can mount it to a wood panel. Then use Pebeo's Mixtion Relief Gilding Paste (this is what she is applying from the tube). When that dries (make sure it's really dry - tube says an hour or two - I do 24 hours because I've had it pull off and tear the paper when not dry enough) then burnish Pebeo's Mirror Effects Gold Foil sheets on top. I know there are other brands of transfer foil, but I've only ever used Pebeo so can't speak to how effective the others are. Then coat with resin! The gold looks amazing under the resin because it's raised, so has a lot of dimension. Check out her IG for lots of other amazing projects - she is so talented!

Thank you! So very kind of you to explain!!

@@CAD-cb9dl happy to help!

thanks! glad you enjoyed it!

Hi there - resining over a round object can be a little more challenging but the same rules apply. Scrape off any wet, liquid resin as best you can and pour a fresh coat. Depending on the shape of it, you may need to do it in stages (one half and then the other) or prop it up and brush the resin all over with a foam brush. If the resin is simply sticky (like the sticky side of tape) you can skip the scraping part and go straight to applying a fresh coat.

The resin might not have finished curing yet. You can give it some more time and see if that helps. Otherwise, you can try pouring on a thin coat of resin on top and letting that cure - it will help to give it a little more stability. Here's a blog with some more information about bendy resin and why it occurs: www.artresin.com/blogs/artresin/how-to-prevent-bendy-resin

@@Artresin it's already 2 days

Thanx I'll try 1 more thin coating

@@sapanatomar4735 2 days might not be long enough. Check with the resin brand you're using. A thin coat of ArtResin fully cures in 3 days. But if you pour into a mold, it can take a few weeks to fully harden.

@@Artresin so should i apply another thin layer now or should i wait for 1-2days more

Yes, low temperatures can definitely slow down a resin cure, but it should cure as expected once the temperature rises again. Just be aware that if the temperature drops during the first 24 hours of a cure, it can cause the resin to cure with surface imperfections. If you resin early and the resin sets up before the temperature drops at night, you should be ok :)

Thanks! We used wood panels to create the geodes in this video. Ours were birch, but you could use any type of wood panel.

@@Artresin thank youuu

Happy to help! :)

You're very welcome! So happy our videos have helped you! :)

We bought the fire glass and glass shards for this video from Amazon. You can also find glass shards/crystals at stores like Michaels. And the fire glass is actually meant for outdoor propane fire tables so you can find that at Lowe's, Home Depot etc.

Hopefully it all worked out - as long as you scrape off the wet, runny resin, you should be good :)

@@Artresin thank you yes it did.

They're so fun to make - Shilpi is a great teacher - follow her advice and I'm sure your piece will look great!!

Thank you so much! Happy this video was helpful. Feel free to reach out to customer service anytime (well, at least M-F, between 9-4 EST) if you have questions: 1 877 401 4001 or support@artresin.com

Newspaper is tricky because it's so porous and will absorb the resin. Best thing is to try sealing it very well with a clear-drying, brush on sealant - you may even want to do multiple coats - and then try adding the resin on top. The sealant should act as a barrier to prevent the resin from soaking in. But always test it out first on a scrap piece so you know exactly what results to expect. Hope that helps!

@@Artresin thanks ☺

Happy you found it helpful! :)

Don't panic!

Glad it helped!

Hi there - it's always a good idea to consult the Safety Data Sheet for the epoxy resin you're using as not all products have the same safety ratings. Some resins do require respirators and other protective measures - however, I'm happy to tell you that ArtResin has undergone extensive testing for safety, leaching, migration, toxicity and it was determined that, when used as directed (following the label directions and working in a well-ventilated space) the only PPE required are gloves to prevent skin irritation. If you're working with ArtResin in a space that isn't well ventilated, then you should wear a respirator as epoxy resin can trigger an allergic response in those who are sensitive to it.

Because of filming, I'm pretty sure we left it overnight, but it shouldn't need that long ... just until it's firm enough to pop out of the mold. It really depends how thick the fondant layer is.

Mold Making Material can be found here :) www.artresin.com/collections/mold-making-material

Hi there - Yes, bare edges can happen with canvas boards too, unfortunately. Just like stretched canvases, canvas boards don't have a nice flat 90 degree edge, which can make it tricky for the resin to level out. Resin is self levelling so it will always find the lowest point to settle. If the edges are irregular or slightly raised, you may need to build up a couple of layers in order to get an even coat. This is why many artists prefer using birch wood panels - they're strong, perfect flat, and have nice clean square edges for easy resin application. Hope that helps!

Thanks so much for replying, helpful information too

@@Artresin www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B07QYKQFVW/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A14KLZI2FOEPJ4&psc=1

Are they ok to use ?

@@Ebonybones47 you can totally use canvas boards, but you may have to do a couple of coats to build up the edges. Let the first layer of resin dry, sand it down (being careful around the bare spots not to damage artwork), clean up the sanding dust, and pour a fresh coat. The fresh coat will fill in all the scratch marks from sanding. PS - always wear a dust mask when sanding resin, you don't want to inhale the fine particles.

Hi there - all epoxy resin cures hard, but thinner coats will retain more flexibility. I would do some experimenting and try brushing on a very thin coat with a foam brush and see if it gives you the results you're looking for. ArtResin would be a good choice for you - it's non-toxic and low-odor, and because it's designed to go over artwork, it's formulated with a bit of flexibility to prevent cracking.

@@Artresin Thank you.

Yes, a warm water bath - shouldn't be too hot, about what you'd use for a baby's bath. 10-15 mins should do it, but could be longer depending on the size of bottles or how cold they are.

As the video explained, not all resins are formulated equally. It's imperative to check the SDS and label instructions for the product you're using and wear the recommended PPE to protect yourself. For ArtResin, the requirements are gloves and working in a well-ventilated space since epoxy resin can be an irritant for some people. Of course, we encourage anyone to wear a respirator & other PPE if that makes them more comfortable, especially if they are using solvent items like isopropyl alcohol or alcohol inks.

As fas as I know, Emily doesn't do tutorials, but I believe she sells an online course/resin guide on her website. And if you check out her social media, she has plenty of video showing her process along the way. Her work is beautiful! www.artresin.com/blogs/artresin/emily_mcsevich_art-is-our-instagram-winner

​@@Artresinthankyou for sharing this.❤

@@ginnywad Happy to help! :)