Interesting little projects are accomplished in a small hobbyist workshop with limited tools. To get the work done we use a mixture of vintage hand tools, second hand power tools, occasionally a new tool, as well as some shop build tools and jigs. Join in the fun and see the thought process, a few failures and some satisfying successes produced in the Proto49 workshop.
Thankyou very much for posting this video, I found the instructions truly awful for this and clearly it wouldn’t do for me to get it wrong! Decapitation not a favoured option….your video helped me to put it together I now think correctly! Will still get someone else to check it but at least Ive dared turn it on for a second!
The only good thing in this grinder was the price. I'm thinking about return. The switch is a complete misunderstanding designed by someone without imagination. 10:45
Nice one, the two issues mentioned, one with locking and tightening and the position of the ON button, were enough to put me off, might as well pay a bit extra and get the professional blue one.
Any tips of setting those bearing guides, in particular the two (top/bottom) that are there in behind the blade. I have the 310 and don't see how on earth you're meant to get to them with any sort of feeler gauge/paper to get the spacing or to even see the spacing to do be able to do a hit and miss job of setting it.
1. Continue with hit or miss. 2. Stop at hit. :-) I agree, it's fiddly. I run the bearing up to a gentle touch on the back of the blade. Others I have seen leave a small gap.. business card width. But you don't really need to get something in there. Just as long it's within a 1 mm or so it will work well.
Tracking adjustment is on the back in the centre of the top wheel. For a blade moving forward a clockwise adjustment (looking from the back) should work. I run the blade tracking on the top wheel with the back of the gullet just forward of the centre of the crown on the wheel (the middle fo the rubber tyre). This reduces blade wandering in the cut, but may not eliminate it as there are many factors to drift.
I had conversed 14.4 Nicad to Lithium ion series of 4(4s) , 16.8 v but it ran no good! Slow or not even running ! I checked the voltage at 14.4v Nicad charger, the out put of the charger gave out 19.5v to charge for 14.4v Nicad batt pack( the old pack) , so i realized that the out put from 14.4 Nicad must be at around 19v .So i at one more cell 3.7 lithium to make up 5s plus changing to 5s BMS too . The result is good .Drill runs a lot better than before even when on new 14.4 Nicad in the old day
Habe ich mir zugelegt das Teil ist der größte Schrott ich habe da 2 baumwurzeln mit rausgezogen das Seil ist defekt die Haken sind abrebrochen und jetzt habe ich es weg geschmissen aber gut 20 min hat es gehalten also Finger weg von dem Drecksdk g
Es kostete 28 australische Dollar. Ich hatte keine hohen Erwartungen. Aber es übertrifft die Erwartungen in Bezug auf die solide Verarbeitung. Die einzigen Einschränkungen, die ich festgestellt habe, sind die Zuglänge und der umständliche Umkehrschalter. Aber ich habe es seitdem mehrmals benutzt und es hat mich nicht im Stich gelassen. Ich habe keine Beschwerden.
I personally have a crap ton of old 14.4 volt power tools (saws drills impact drivers grinders etc.) that I am currently running on modern Li Ion 18 volt batteries. Most of these old tools were made to run on Ni Cad or NiMH batteries and they generally have the old 775 or 550 Johnson motors which were built to run at anywhere from 12 to 24 volts. Most of these tools have been running like this for more than12 years with no problems but you need to realize that the higher the voltage the faster they spin and the more torque they have so the quicker they will wear out. Most of the older Ryobi's, Makita's, Hitachi's, Craftsman, DeWalt's, Milwaukee's, bosch, etc. were well built so they generally handle more power with no worries.
I agree. To date I havn't used this one much.. it's the third in line and my #1 (a Hitachi 18v) is always the go to. It will het more usage when I set up my welding station more permanently.
I have to admit, without the instruction booklet I woud have been lost on ths one. I had no idea how to stand it up against the wall... the operators manual really came through for me. Have to admit, this has been a great value purchase which hasn't let me down to date.
I have a heavy duty BS-16A from Hare and Forbes..It was my Uncles that was used to cut 200mmx600mm Hebel blocks whilst he was building his house.Once the house was done,it was not needed. I know the machine was not cheap and it's a substantial weight.The guides never worked properly though.I can't complain in that regard as it was free.I saved it from going to the tip. When i did have a go at trying to fix the guides,the guide blocks just crumbled in my hand. Whatever they were cast with, just broke down.I have never seen anything like it. Honestly, i would have even been happy with any type of guide block to just be able to use the saw. Thanks for sharing your video,i am here just trying to get some ideas..Cheers..
I've recently received a (nearly) 40 year old Ryobi corded grinder. It still works great but has no ability to accomodate a side handle. So looking to buy a new corded one for general use, perhaps a little bit of concrete cutting and grinding, and to sharpen the odd garden tool. This might do the job. A few people have suggested I spend a hundred dollars more and get something like a Makita. Might take a punt on this one given it's low price. Like you say, always good to have a few grinders in the kit.
I wonder why the Australian market gets that metal box, and the American market is stuck with blow molded cases, I know which I would prefer and it’s not the plastic one.
We have plenty of blow molded cases. If they're made of the right material can be very robust. But on these cheaper tool sets they skimp on the materials and for me it seems the hinges and latches always fail. Has California banned blow molded cases yet?
Just bought one, got it home, tried to read the instructions to put it together safely, next to useless, pictorials where useless as well. Video clarified a number of small things i was scratching my head about, but now i have safely put it together. Video was very good. Thanks
Hey. I have the same bandsaw, and need to replace my upper guide. I contacted HAFCO for advice, because I don't have a mill/lathe to make the same modifications.
The sell some pretty high dollar and hefty machines. I guess there's not much in it for them helping out little guy's too much with older units. Admitedly the did initially assit me well. Hapily they are a great source of good quality and afordable blades for these machines so that aspect keeps me happy with my 10 year ago purchase of this hobyist level machine. No regrets from me after 10 years with my BP-305.
I also have this machine but the lower guide has broken. Hafco are unable to supply a replacement. Does anyone have any ideas as I am a newby to these machines.
The lower guide is available for the current model but you will need to devise a mounting system as it's not a direct bolt on replacement.. based on what I can see from photos on the Hafco website.
Excellent video. I´m looking for days how do you disassemble this engine because the fan of my outdoor unit DAIKIN is making a noise. The repair costs will be very cheap if you can change the bearings model 608Z (22x8x7mm) sealed. Thank you.
@@proto4975 I have just repaired my DAIKIN air conditioner from my window by removing the top cover. It has been somewhat uncomfortable but this brand is very easy to repair. I have removed the fan screw and only removing 2 more screws I have removed the support and the motor that I have disconnected from the motherboard. The rest I have done like your video and I have put in some new bearings. I have saved 400 Euros. The squeal it used to make has disappeared. Thanks again.✌
You didn't show how the mechanism works to extend the cable in order to start using the device. That's kinda important. As is the operation generally. It's all there in the instruction leaflet - but it's super low resolution. In a digital age? Do they still use potato engraving in China? Which, makes us go to the web to find instructions we can follow. From the price, I'd say you got it at Bunnings. You might as well say.
Apologies, it was a quickly put together video. I must admit it was during extending the cable that I discovered the 1.8m cable length is really only 0.9m of cable extension and I had to get another strap to add in for my fence post straightening experiment. There is a release for pulling out the cable easily. I found the instructions mostly helpful. I find the slow-release technique that the instructions describe a shortcoming of the design. However, I haven't yet had an opportunity to really use it for what it's meant for in order to test that. But my first impression was that it's much sturdier than I had expected for the money. Unboxing and first impression was all I had intended to cover in this video. I'll add now that whilst the instructions weren't he greatest, they were certainly better than some other much more expensive products I've purchased over the years and I gleaned what I needed to know for this first fairy clumsy use. When I get an opportunity to use it for a more fitting task, I'll try to remember to record it and create a follow-up video.
My wife just can't understand how I can work all day on my off days and still watch other people work as recreation. This really is satisfying to watch
That's a good conversation to be having. I think for some guy's there's a joy and relaxation in working stuff out, building, fixing, etc. And I get it.. watchng someone else working stuff out is oddly satisfying and encouraging. In a sense we ride the bumps with the guy we're watching. I think, in a small way, its like being in the shed together... working stuff out. I'm glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for the comment.
From what I understand cross pein hammers a generally used in wordworking for small brad nails and in upholstery for tacks, nails, and other upholstery fasteners.
Hi, I have just come across your video and found it helpful. I have been considering getting the BP 255 10" model (primarily due to budget limitations), however I am now drawn to the BP 310 12" model. Looking at the Machinery House website there is a price difference of $385 between the two machines. I am basically a home woodwork hobbyist and wondering if its worth going to the larger machine. Do you have an opinion either way? Cheers from Adelaide.
Hi Paul I just watched a video from another RU-vidr basically saying get the bigger one now. He was talking tractors and his specific advice was… when you’ve settled on the one you want.. get the next model up in the range. I actually had the same choice when I bought mine. The 10” seemed to be all I needed. But I ended up dropping the extra cash in on the 12” and haven’t regretted it. I can’t even remember the cost difference almost ten years later. I like the features of some of the 10” models on the market. But I think the size and power of the 12” saw is worth the extra outlay. The difference now is relatively small compared to the cost of a later upgrade. I see it as a 10 year purchase. So divide the difference by 10 and then think about how many coffees that amount would buy in a year… not that many. I’ve found my 12” saw to be a great compromise for a budget conscious small workshop. Go for it Paul!
@@craiggbuckmaster5674 Hi Craig, thanks for your response. I am inclined to agree about going up to the next model. As you say if you look at it as a 10 year purchase with a price difference of $385 between the two models that's $38.50 a year. That's around 10 or so coffees. Kind of makes sense really. Thanks for your opinion, you've convinced me.
Very helpful video mate. I have just purchased this very machine second hand in very good condition although it did have very similar issues to the ones you have addressed. It does however seem to have some excessive vibration on the table that I'm having trouble getting rid of. Any ideas. Cheers.👍
Hi Michael. Excessive vibration on the table would make me crazy. I'd look at two things. Firstly the source of the vibration. a) Maybe an out of balance wheel. Remove the blade (or belt) and spin the wheels in place. the heavy side will always stop at the bottom. b) May be an eccentric drive pulley. I found mine was a little worn and tightening up the grub screw did pull it eccentric (I can see that in the video). Too much wear in the pulley bore and you may need to add a thin bass or aluminium (coke can) shim. Secodly, look at furming up the table. I did by sinching down both tilt mechanism bolts hard. This locks the table in the horizontal position and removes all but the flex inherent to the trunion glides themselves. I hope this helps you chase it down. Good luck.
The blade guide on mine broke. It's part of the casting and epoxying it back in place did not hold. Do you see a way to fix this without going to the trouble and expense of replacing teh whole casting? Thank you.
Hi John. Very sorry to hear the blade guide broke. As it's part of the casting the only possible repaor aproach would be to try brazing the broken part back on. Problem is it may have bent as it was breaking. For the price replacing the base plate woud be the best aproach to bringing this great tool back to proper working order. In the scheme of thngs it's not that expensive.
@@proto4975 The blade guide I refer to is part of the entire front casting of the saw. Part#52 is attached to #49. It's part 49 that is broken. I think I have to use it as is, with the big long blade without the guide or buy a whole new saw. Thanks.
I’m probably going to do this with a black n decker sawzall. The warranty is a dim memory and there’s an adapter to stick a 20v battery to it. Since it dies too fast I’m probably going to do so
hey mate, can you do the other way? i can run a 18v hitachi drill on a 14.4 battery, the only downside is the Battery level indicator doesnt work. does the battery indicator work on your drill?
I dont have an 18v drill to test with. But I do get the same result on other 18v tools if I use a 14.4v battery... the battery level indicator doesnt function. Ths may be due to different sensing circuit connections in the 14.4v battery vs the 18v battery. Not really something I've looked in to. The man reason for the video was to look at the practicality of using an 18v battery in a 14.4v tool.
