All about dragging my dads1973 Plymouth Duster out of retirement and learning some old school Mopar knowledge. We also do a lot late model tuning and repair on Vehicles such as my 2016 Ford Fiesta ST and my dads 2014 Dodge Charger R/T. Go see what a nightmare my 2013 ford Taurus SHO has been. Come subscribe and join us on our adventures whether it’s in the shop or at the strip! And watch us fix it till it’s broke!
I loved racing at Eddyville. You are pitted almost directly across from the spot we rented for 5, maybe 6 years. Were you intentionally lowering the stall rpm on the line each pass?
We were intentionally lowering launch rpm to slow reaction. Too low we stumbled. Works well at 1500. It’s a cool 1/8th mile track. I think they run it pretty well. Too bad the car count was so low.
taller front tires are defiantly a move in the right direction, bracket racing is all about consistency "in everything" especially foot braking. the un-seen can become very difficult to dial in ie humidity-air density-water grains, temp-tack surface temp etc. i have notebooks full of each run i ever made with all that written next to the time slip, something that has also made it harder to zero in on reaction times are the LED light bulbs, when they first came out, it took more than a full season for me to get the timing right, the old lights you could time easily, there were stages of the light bulb (Off - coming on - on - going off - Off) depending on tire pres, track temp, debris on the surface, track prep, for my 69 Road Runner (10.50 car) "going off" would produce consistent 020 to 040 r/t My 70 Challenger (11.20 to 11.40) full weight street car thru mufflers, i launch the same way but added Cal Tracs and get the same 020 to 040 r/t .- i had been racing for a couple decades with the incandescent lights which were easy to time, LEDs are just "On - Off" I don't know your engine set up ie cid-compression-valve size-cam-port volume-carb cfm-header size, etc or what gear your running, but i did notice your converter flashes to about 4700 and the shift points are a little short, both small block and big block Mopars in this type of configuration like to be shifted @ 6000-6200 for best ETs. Regardless of having a 727 or a 904, always start your burn out in 2nd gear and feather off at the end (don't let the tires chirp) "damage to Trans" also - they don't pump in park, so for 40 years i always put them in neutral to start engine "wear" need a good safety switch On Dusters - Demons - DartSports the factory wheel well will take a 28.0 X 10 if the wheel is backspaced correctly, any taller requires cutting or relocation inboard, that is the tire you need to run with your current configuration. the ass end seems a little stiff, "not much weight transfer - Super Stock springs? might want to try using a little of the stahl and try launching at 2200 to 2500... 40+ years racing Mopars, any questions ? more than happy to help...
Aint that the truth about LED bulbs. The incandescent bulbs were a lot easier to find your spot. When everyone switched to LED bulbs, it really screwed me up for a whole year.
Lots of good information, appreciate that. Our 727 was built in the early 90’s stock valve body transgo stage 2 kit. Shifts at 5500 in drive. 6300 thru the traps. For consistency we let it do its thing. Sportsman class is 11.60 and slower foot brake. We dial in the 11.70’s to 11.80’s depending on weather. 9.8cr 408 small block, ported eddy heads isky .505 hyd cam. SS springs. We log every pass including weather and can dial on the money most times. We launch low rpm to slow the reaction time of the car to not redlight. Also we almost always have to chase a 14 sec or slower car so sitting on the converter is rough on it. We 60’ 1.54 to 1.58 depending on conditions. 26” tire 3.91 gear. Moving to a 28” front and rear next year. The old man ran the car from 98 to 2003 and it sat till 4 years ago when Ricky started running it full time. Again, really appreciate the input.
@@jerayracing seems as I remember small block A bodies track spec being a 9X28 on a 4.10 into the 11s and then 4.30 on the same tire into the 10s with minimum 50% weight distribution, they use the same # of pinion teeth - but 2 teeth different on the ring. are you running a 489 - 742 or dana? I never ran past the 12s with an automatic valve body, just always installed a manual for the positive shift, and to take the governor out of the equation, i do remember people saying if it was left auto - to use the 5.0 ratio band lever which was added to the hemi trans back in the day for racing -
489 case with a suregrip 2.9 ratio lever. 48%rear weight, car weighs 2960lbs. 275 50 15 Hoosier drag radial. Working on consistency with the lights. Maybe another year of sportsman then new combo to go quicker.
@@jerayracing that weight is awesome... 489 case, i think i have about 9 or 10 of them around here and a couple of my 1960s prized Dana Trac Loks for them, I worked in a Speed Shop building Top Fuel - Alcohol funny cars and pro stocks, so I met a lot of old Heros, but because i ran my little street cars, the info I got from Super Stock Racers was important to me, people like Al Eckstrand (The Lawman) Lawrence Rountree (Deputy Dodge) and the awesome Dan Dvorak. 40 years ago, working in a machine shop - i had finally got the parts together to build my first engine to play at the track, I quickly learned the do's and don'ts with suspension, trans and definitely rear ends, I loved the 8 3/4 for the ease of changing gear sets, but to never use the 740 and 741, the 742 worked but everyone bragged on the 489 - never had an issue, 8 years later i restored my 69 Road Runner, 2 years later I decided to build a serious engine for it, using the just released Indy 440-1 heads, after Ken Lazzari (Indy Cylinder Head) called me and told me to get rid of my 63 Max Wedge stuff. The new engine i built was a mild 800hp, built the trans to handle it, and took one of my 489s and Trac Loks, threw a 4.30 gear on and put 29.5 X 10.5s on it welded in sub-frame connectors, welded up my torque boxes, put a full bar in it and went racing, If i wasn't on the road working national events, I was racing my car.. about two years later - BANG ! the rear end breaks and the over speed tore the sprag (a Bolt in) right out of the trans, while building a new rear and trans - kept trying to figure out what happened - sometimes looking at the 3rd member for hours thinking, did i build it wrong - is the engine too much - is it the 3750# car weight ??? So, I get the car back together, the only change is I added Cal Tracs - a few years later in 2002, at a Big event, dialed in @ 10 something... right at the 1000' Boooom ! it felt like i ran over an elephant and was spinning at 126 mph according to the speed trap, between two cement walls... It took me 2 years to restore that thing, I really thought it was a goner, luckily it never touched the wall. the rear end broke again but, this time - the drive shaft got pretzeled, it literally broke the trans in half, and the yoke on the third member actually went thru the floorboard... a little bit later I was talking to Lawrence, he had opened the Atlanta Connection which later became The Moparts Connection (he sold about 14 yrs ago) when Dan came up and was looking at the car after we got it on the trailer and says "742 or 489?" I said 489 - Dan asked when was it last built? I told him about 4 years ago - his reaction was as if someone behind him stuck a sewing needle in his ass, now - Dan has always run the 489 for 40+ years but... He rebuilds them 2 or 3 times a season - here is where the problem is, the 742 has a straight pinion - the 489 is tapered and uses the crush sleeve, every time you launch the pinion is trying to move and starts deforming the crush sleeve, well - after 100 or 200 launches, at some point it will start to woller itself and loosen the sleeve until the pinion is sloppy enough to catch on the ring and break, so Dan says to Lawrence, isn't that new sleeve kit available for the 489? Lawrence says yep, and i ordered one on the spot, you take the crush sleeve out and put a spacer in so it it like the 742 - Great ! I bought that to put in My street car and did, so i run the Challenger which is a 93 octane 3650# car on a 4.10 and 29.5 ET Radials - thru the mufflers runs 11.20 to 11.40 depending on air, several yrs later in October 2010, I decide to see what the car will run without mufflers, so i dropped the pipes and ran a couple 11-0s, cool - made a couple adjustments and run a 10.90, even better... make a couple more adjustments and went to run it, burn out was fine, went to launch - the front starts to pick up, can tell its going to be a good 60' then... weeeeen, sounded like an RM80 wound out in first gear, front end comes down, and i think - F*#K... yep broke that one too, but this trans - all the special stuff i had in it, GONE - all that was salvageable was the deep pan-reverse manual valve body-my high dollar high speed anti shatter Drum-and the case. a reminder for you - never use a third member after this happens - the case has been stressed and will just do it again, i still have 8 3/4 rears in my 68 Cuda - My 71 Demon - but my GTX - Road Runner and Challenger all have Strange 60s in them now, the cost of one covers the cost of a trans alone...
Been a long time since I've foot brake raced and don't want to tell you how to run your program but I wonder if you came up on convertor a bit more at line if 60ft and rt would be more consistent. Worth a couple test try I'd think. Good luck.
Thanks for the input. One of the main reasons I don’t go much higher is because the body starts preloading and taking some suspension travel. The car reacts very quick, so I have to wait until the last light is most of the way thru before leaving so I can’t just leave on the last yellow. We are in the process of trying to gain more rollout to help with that
Thanks for the video and explanation. I am considering buying these tires but in 295/50r16 for the wheels of my fox body mustang Turbo... At approximately how many pounds of pressure do you use them? To have a reference
We run 17psi but that’s just what we found works best. Probably start around 20 or so then work down. Fantastic tire and has a lot of life in it. You won’t be disappointed
Two years ago, I commented on this video and I’m still referring back to it, thank you for such in-depth descriptions of what you’re doing. Two years ago I had a brand new rebuilt 727 with a 3500 stall, the transmission rebuild shop asked me if I wanted a deep pan instead of the shallow pan, I said “sure!“. Last weekend I realized that my converter is not stalling and the car is not taking off right I took off the transmission pan for the first time and noticed that I did not use an extension on the filter I’m sure the damage has been done, I looked at the bottom of the pan and it just had a gray sludge no real metal on my magnets or anything, but lots of gray sludge. this weekend I want to take the converter out and take it to the converter shop to have them clean it out. What I’m asking you guys is would you do a full rebuild on the transmission? Is there a way for me to flush it? I’m kind of torn because I’d rather not do a full rebuild. It’s only 1000 miles on it but if I have to, I will. Any suggestions?
If it did not slip a lot, clean the pan etc and put a fresh filter and oil in it. Adjust the bands and try again. We get grey sludge too. I use ATF4 My transmission was built in the mid 90’s overdue for a rebuild. We just went 11.72 with it.
#1 is an idler pulley, if it spins free and is not gritty you can leave it. I replaced mine but I think it was ok. My problem was the tensioner was weak
Dude punch it through as it's designed to be and put in a new roll pin. That's what I did no Brainer. And in disassembly just use reverse plyers and left the shift and bearing drop. The retainer clips should have never left the housing
I have the same car, identical in fact, color and all. We love it but it’s getting a few miles, 112,000 now. I just discovered the cv axle boots damaged/worn loose at the narrow end on both front axles. The axle shafts are not bad at this point so it’s not being driven at the moment. My question is am I better to replace them anyway or just do the boots? I also have the whine when the and is engaged and I am questioning if the fluid needs replaced in the unit or if I have a bearing issue there as well. Any thoughts would be appreciated. I’m a decent mechanic but this car is beyond my experience over the years. I’ve had it for five years now and want to fix it as opposed to getting rid of it.
I want to say the axles were under 100 bux so I just changed them. If you do boots only, careful you don’t over grease it will break the boots. We did a vid on the axles. I changed the center diff and rear but not the front, no drain. Need a vacuum to do that. Thanks for watching
@@jerayracing thanks for taking the time to upload the content you do on these cars. They are excellent vehicles overall if you maintain them properly.
