@@james102377 yah now we have to worry about even the name brands being Chinese knockoffs, people are now basing their opinions on the quality based on the price
I bought a all aluminum one for my 05 H2 it runs so much cooler new water pump hoses T stat belts coolant and water conditioner as well makes it run even cooler
I had a new water pump installed 15k ago so I should be good there. My hoses all feel pretty good and look good. I have a new set but couldn't justify installing them. Took me two nights but I got it in and also replaced my condenser at the same time seeing I had a new one sitting in my basement for 2 years as well. I did run into another issue while I was heating it up to get the air out. One of my expensive stage 4 extreme cooling fans apparently had stopped working. I was pretty pissed after all that work because now I had to take it half apart again to replace the fan motor because of the ties that hold the bottom in and the fan itself has to be removed from the shroud via the inside to replace motor. On the bright side they have a lifetime warranty so I emailed the company the other night when I found it and next day they sent me out a new fan motor and ties which will arrive today. I've put so much work and money into this thing. I'm still paying the debt off even though I own it free and clear.....lol I'll have to do a video of my recent upgrades after. I aslo installed cognito idler and pitman arm supports a couple weeks ago.
I find it hard to believe that those holes are not metric. Hopefully someone will come out with pic rail with needed screws. Think 3 or 4 holes be better. Just go to a gunsmith and do it right. Looks to me like we are just spinning our wheels here with these adapters.
Yup. The two holes don't line up with anything I've bought. I guess 2 single pics might work too but still getting the right screw is impossible and drilling pics again. There's only 2 gunsmiths around here im the city and they're backed up for weeks.
I did put metric screws in it after converting the 10-40. M5x0.5 but you can only get those in lengths that are to long which is why I had to make washers.
Yes. Even after running it for a week straight on high, the motor was real hot but never got to the point of burning up or anything. I was worried myself but I checked it constantly for days before I completely trusted it. Was always smelling it too. I'm guessing it's just the bearings heating it up but it's still going. Great fan huh?
So it turns out this mount isn't going to work with this Truglo sight because the height is beyond the sights mechanical limit for adjustment so I'm working on a cheap RMR red dot and hope that works out being slightly lower and maybe more mechanical ability. It's a shame because I really like the ignite. The closest I could get it was aiming at a guys head and hitting him in the chest or lower....lol
The thing is if you can't see the blatant obvious lies out of Bidens mouth which apparently half the country can't, and you can't see the illegal election interference with lawfare and every other thing, you're blnd and only believe what they tell you and you're one sided not opening your eye's and looking at both sides. EVERYTHING Trump said during the debate was the truth yet every media channel said he lied.
What if you’ve tried to jump it threw the starter relay freshly charged battery and new starter,can hear what sounds like the gear stopping when it touches the flywheel.
Worst case scenario a seized motor but you could try to verify that by turning it ove by the crankshaft pulley. The starter could need shims but I haven't had to worry about shims since I was a teenager. Could also be the wire going to the starter motor itself has corroded off so just the solenoid is doing it's job. I had my Hummer H2, my uncle's silverado, and my side job bosses hummer h2 all had the wire to the starter motor corrode off with 3 month period. Solenoid would kick in but wouldn't crank because the wire going into the motor attached to it basically disintegrated. I learned my lesson putting in a new one. I sprayed the crap out of it with red dielectric spray.
You're welcome. I wish I had more secrets to share. Most of the stuff I work on is beyond what an average mechanic can do so I don't even bother recording it. I haven't been able to take shortcuts in a while. Seems like every job I do is taking 8-16 hours for oil or antifreeze leaks. My hummer is my baby though
Someone else commented just cut the end off and put the new one on. For starters it's not like there's extra fuel line to work with and that plastic is so old and hard I wasn't taking any chances. Only had to do it because my fuel pump was rotted and leaking.
Man because of you I fixed mine today as soon as the fuse plate came from eBay I was able to get for $14 bucks plus free shipping except the 250 fuse on the plate wasn’t the culprit like most mine was caused by the 300 amp fuse section of the plate may God continue to bless you and yours sir thanks again
I'm glad I could help. I try to record oddball stuff that might help people. Haven't had much lately though. I think the last thing I did was an AC compressor not kicking on and turned out to be a wire broke in the top of the motor from rubbing the bolt head for years but alas not video. Was in a hurry because it was already sold.
When I bought them I had to be notified when they would be in stock again. I think they might wait for so many people looking and then make them in batches.
There's 2 nubs that face inward. You have to spread those lightly with a pick or small flathead to get it over the tube. If that's what you're talking about, that goes on the metal tube itself and still snaps into the black part one of two directions.
Yup, that's exactly what I did. Needs a new rim now but those are cheap enough at the junkyard. Had to pull out chunks and keep smacking the tire with a big hammer. All that mattered to me was not screwing up the stud. It did get somewhat worse though. 2 drill bits broke off in there while drilling.....lol
If you're sure it's charged it could be one of the pressure sensors. Easiest way to make sure it's not the clutch is to put power to the wire direct and see if it kicks on. That bypasses the sensors. Sometimes you can do it right at the fuse. If the wire is al powered then the clutch is probably bad.
Your video is bad have of what you are showing you cannot see it too much moving and not showing what you are doing you can't demonstrate with one hand and video with the other hand couldn't see much of what you were doing 😢😢😢😢
If you have yours in front of you or the couplers from the parts store, you'd be able to see and tell what I was doing. Others understood and have done it.
Hey your comments are disabled on you hyper tough fan video and I noticed it was mounted to a wall and that's something I wanna do and I was wondering if you could tell me how you did it, thank you
If you bought it new in the box it comes with a metal loop and bolt. You screw the loop to the wall which is basically a hook then hang the fan on it and put the safety bolt through keeping the fan from coming out.
Make sure that lag bolt goes into a stud and not just drywall otherwise it will fall right off the wall making a nice little hole and probably ruin the fan. If you can find the stud, stud finders are fairly cheap which is what I had to use myself.
What are you working on at the adjuster? I removed everything from the lower control arm... knocked the 2 lower pivot bolts out, got out my kinda bent on one end v drive prop shaft and pried the torsion bar down. Knocked the control arm off the end, stuck the new one on the torsion arm and it went right back together...you got super duper high-power battery impact...all that have us a half indrive Bosch...
Those torsion keys were 3" leveling keys so there was excessive pressure on the torsion bar and had to be taken off completely to get the pressure off the lower control arm. My torsion crossmember that the keys sit up in, one side the steel is smooshed in from the previous owner and the adjusting bolt doesn't sit right either. When I have the money I'll probably have a machine shop fab me a better thicker new crossmember for the keys. Maybe some quarter inch steel. 3/8 probably be fine too.
I don't drink water which explains my ability to think freely seeing fluoride calcifies your pineal gland which explains why democrats are brainwashed morons
It's just about any chrysler vehicle lately it seems. This crap started with my jeep compass spending several hours smoke testing and could smell it but never see it. Ended up being the same problem in a Caliber and think I'm up to 4 Grand Cherokees now even though I lack video. My neighbor has same evap code but doesn't want to drop his tank. He said his is so bad he smells gas non-stop.
Run a somewhat thick jumper wire across those big fuses bypassing them and try. Make sure it's a good connection. You can't even tell these things are burnt out or possibly corroded off. Everything looked normal but that wasn't the case. I think when I tried a multimeter it showed power but it was still bad. I'm assuming it burnt out enough to barely make a connection and when you try to start it heated up and broke the connection like a turn signal relay.
@@james102377I found that out also and had to go to Walmart to get an extra start H6 for a $179 bucks fired right up with the new fuse plate and runs and shift’s better too these are very sophisticated vehicles and have multiple modules and a weak or regular battery just won’t do
No. Everything lit up like it was going to start then nothing when the start button was pushed. The starter itself was worn and sloppy on the gear and shaft so I'm assuming it has a jammed up start the drew too much and blew the fuse in the block which you can't replace without replacing the whole thing.
Fuse plate that sits on top of the battery change it got mine off eBay for $14 bucks free shipping local stealership wanted almost 6 times as much plus tax lol but hey mines fixed now because of this gentleman here 🤔⚠️💯
Is that you Morin? If you're swapping out the whole control arm it is a pain in the you know what because of the whole shock setup if you're talking about the stock arm. It's getting onto the nuts and or bolts and if they've been in there forever they're probably rusted to the sleeves. I can't remember without watching my own video but pretty sure I had to use torches and cut them out without destroying the thin steel they bolt through. They weren't your average steel bolt and nut and took a lot of heat to melt. My sawzall wouldn't do anything to them except ruin the blade. Once those bolts are out it's not to bad I guess.
It's going to cost Massachusetts a billion dollars a year to do what they're doing. They only took in 46 million in taxes last year and over charged and had to return 6 million to the people because of a law put in place yesrs ago. New York is giving out 10 times as much to illegals. The shit will hit the fan before the election in November so they can keep Trump out. That's the only reason they're giving so much. These sanctuary cities are going to burn to the ground when that time comes. Surrounding states just need to be prepared because 50 to 100k illegals per state are massive armies that even our army can't handle.
Especially if it's too much trouble to get the whole line out and you can manage it while it's still in the vehicle. I had to drop my tank for the fuel pump anyways and the metal piece broke off inside the line so I had to dig it out.
The orings were to small? I almost think they sold 2 different sizes. If that's the case then it's probably the other size. I almost think I had to measure the outlet to make sure I got the right size.
I don't know if Ford purposely designed it like this or what. Most of the F-150's I've been working on are all rotting out in the same spot and like the previous video I made on this truck saying how the water runs down the frame from this point forward and ends up running off the sides of the frame into any openings and down into the frame keeping it constantly wet or damp along with any salt or dirt that managed to build up inside the frame. It's a recipe for rot.
Yea. I'm guessing that's part of the reason for the price of them. They're very specific of the requirements you must meet like original purchaser and vehicle, has to come from an authorized dealer not some joe blow on ebay etc. That's my only concern with the warranty. I don't even remember where I got mine already. I think I got it direct for that reason....lol
I just realized I misunderstood your comment. Yes. If you read their warranty it says something like jump it race it beat it beat the shit out of it....lol so off road yes.
I hope to be my hummers last owner. I have way to much time and money into it. I think it's at about 98k now because my Compass broke down for a while so I went back to this as my daily. Luckily gas prices dropped right after and the day after I fixed my Compass they went back up....lol 8 mpg at 74 miles a day to work and back was running me $150 a week.
Only reason I know about the ads is because I was watching my own video looking for something and it stopped and an ad started playing. I was like wtf!
JL Audio? Sonicelectronix.com or anyone that sells jl audio. The bracket or mount rather is factory and should already be in your door with the factory speakers if it's original still.
I have a '17 ranger double cab here in the UK. It had almost as much scale throughout the frame seams and more importantly inside the box sections and crossmembers. It had the factory sealant on it and had never been treated since. I gave it the full inside out inspection including borescope through the frame and in the fenders and rockers and whatnot. One thing I would point out is that there are baffles throughout the frame. The baffles accumulate mud, lifted paint, rocks, sand, etc and this abrades the paint/surface coating inside, sometimes even plugging drainage holes. Fortunately there is a cheap and relatively simple solution to the issue. There are access holes throughout the frame that are large enough to stick one of the cheap drain jetting nozzles and hoses inside the box sections and some of the crossmembers. That can then be used to jet away all trapped mud and debris, remove lifted paint and some scale, and provide a clean and more stable surface for a wax or oil coating. Any electric pressure washer can power it but you need one of the cheap home drain jetting kits with a hose, not one of the expensive and larger kits for professionals.
I've seen ads on Instagram for a magnetic jet you connect a garden hose to and insert it into a frame hole and it sprays in multiple directions. You just leave it in there onto the frame for a while and let it spray. Think it was around $100. You're only relying on whatever your water pressure is though.
@@james102377 I haven't come across those but it sounds like they are on the right track. I don't think it will remove much of the bad stuff though. Might be good for a quick flush but you really want to give it a good blasting because breaking up scale isn't really possible without high pressure. The other point that comes to mind is that drain jetting nozzles use some of the power to propel themselves (they have rear facing jets). This means you can start on one end of the frame, turn the thing on, and just fish it through the entire member in a matter of seconds. Then start on the other end and do the same thing. Now you've thoroughly flushed out the frame including sediment on both sides of the baffles, top, bottom, etc. Oh and if you ever try this, don't bother with the static nozzles. Just go straight to the rotating jetter. It's the only one that's really applicable to this job in my experience.
