That works great!! For the under side of where the screen is strips of wood screwed to the frame would support the wire mesh! This by far is the best design I have seen for DIY sifter! Simple inexpensive and does the job. I am adding a drive way and I need to use the dirt from the where the new drive way will be poured. The soil we have will be clumpy but with few rocks. Thanks for the feedback on the saw blade issue. I have some cold rolled flat stock that I will make as a blade substitute. The blades are brittle due to being heat treated. One thing you could do is anneal the blade prior to drilling the hole by heating blade to cherry red and letting it cool slowly. Don’t quench but keep the blade hot and move the flame father away from the blade over time. 😁🛫
The blades are only made for longitudinal stress But in your case the sifter can move left and right which puts bending forces on to the blade. They are hardened and tempered so they break. Restrict side movement of the sifter frame to the axle, natural to the sawblade. E.g. by adding gliding Aides in the left and right top side so the frame cant go there anymore.
Blades break. You are allowing them to take resistance force. Remedy the force by mounting to heavy duty rubber, and attach the rubber to the frame. That will limit the force visited onto you blade.
what if you had a rope viced into the sawzaw and attached to the screen frame? A bungee cord or spring on the opposite side to keep the rope taught. That would get rid of the blade breaking issue. The rope could go through a pulley too to change direction of the pull if needed.
Thanks for the video. I like that set up. I have been trying to figure out what to use as the agitator when I build my sifter and your idea is perfect.
You probably dont give a shit but if you guys are bored like me during the covid times you can watch pretty much all of the new movies on instaflixxer. Have been streaming with my gf recently =)
The blade breaks because it is hardened high carbon steel, you have to soften it by heating it to glowing red and then cool it slowly, in a bucket of perlite or sand or dirt.
A bees dick I have to remember that one! Sort of like the R CH and the B Ch!🤣 someone explained to me the other day how insignificant a subject was that was being discussed as a tick turd! 🤣🛫
It's only about 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch thick. You would definitely need to seal off the room and create a negative air flow or the dust would settle on everything in the house. The blade and bolts are all a part of an attachment that came with the 20 pound demo hammer I rented. You can get several different bits/attachments. This one seemed to work best with the self leveling compound.
Looks good. A couple of questions.. how think was the layer of self leveling cement? And is it a blade holder with a blade that gets attached and held by the bolts? Thanks
I made a similar sift of a reciprocating saw several years ago, but not suspended. Just had some 2x4 on top of saw horses on some pvc pipe rollers. Had it slanted so the larger material fell off one end. Cobbled it together from scraps to get through a pile of rocks trash and dirt. Got the job done but those blades kept breaking and the rollers kept sliding off, but it was just temporary.
In this case it was the concrete slab, this tool would barely scratch it. If your underlayment is plywood, you could still use this but must be very careful, you could definitely damage it.
@@RonClark2000 What about a terrazzo floor being underneath. THeres a level of level cement on top and I like to remove it and bring out the terrazzo like it originally was. Thanks
@@freebird1963 I'm not really sure, it would depend on the hardness and density of terrazzo, and I'm not that familiar with it. I imagine it is pretty hard stuff. I would test removing the leveling cement in an out-of-the-way area so if you scratch the terrazzo it's not very noticeable. If given the choice of blades to attach to the demo hammer, use the wide thin one like I did, as opposed to a more blunt blade. The blunt tool is more likely to gouge what is below. If you remove the leveling cement, if there are any scratches or gouges, a good clear epoxy or sealer over the entire area would help to hide them.
This is a really good idea! The dual stage filter is an idea I'll steal! Maybe a motor with a wheel and offset crank would be more reliable (like a piston engine). Using a washing machine motor would be really cheap.
Have concrete floors (3, basement, first and second floors). You will have to do an update video on this after your floor has been used for a while and let us know how it held. I may be going that route when the carpeting starts getting bad and has to go.
Mark, the floor is holding up very well. Laying that floor was a pain in the ass and took much longer than I thought, but is SOOOO much nicer than a floated laminate. The floor is only not completely solid feeling in one little spot, and I think it is like that because I let the glue dry too long before I was able to get the wood planks on top of it. So the glue was not as sticky as it should be. It's a lot of work to have to work fast and stay on top of it. Especially working alone!
Thanks for the update. That's how I usually work, alone. Hard to find somebody that will do it"my way", and not give me grief. And these things usually do take me longer than expected. Mark
