How-To's and helpful Hints for the traditional Direct Drive Inboard Ski Boat DIYer From a Semi-Retired Ski Boat Builder, Designer, Owner (Owned American Skier Boat Co.)
Just ran across your You Tube channel, great material Ron! I'm upgrading my old drums to disc, so I'll be changing out the actuator as well. Tight lines always!
I have a question it’s not about this. It’s about which would you choose between a 1991 Ski Centurion Falcon closed bow with 351 carb / 440 hours and 2002 Malibu Wakesetter with 350 fuel injection / 726 hours .
Great video.. I'll be ordering a sea water strainer for my MasterCraft ProStar190 as we sometimes see trash on the lake after a storm. Quick question: 1996 ProStar190 Indmar Marine 350 TBI engine with 1050 hours. Starts fine, idles fine, runs fine at 32MPH and shows a steady reading of about 150 degrees. After shutoff the water temp zooms past 180 and even close to 200; sometimes enough to light the check engine light. New FB6-9 raw pump, replaced the circulating pump a couple of years ago. What I have noticed is - starboard exhaust manifold is hotter than the port side and I am also getting a small amount of water in the crankcase. I believe it's the starboard side exhaust manifold riser gasket, which is 28 years old. Still trying to get a good tool (need a Bondhus 5/16 swivel hex key wrench - on order) to get the 2 rear bolts off the manifold riser. I have the riser gasket and new screws on order. Any other thoughts?
Love your channel. I’m in the process of buying a 1991 Ski Centurion Falcon. It’s very clean kept in a garage only 440 hours. I know that could be bad or good. He has all maintenance records. Any problems from this year I should look for? Thanks
Hello Ron. JUST finding your videos. I have a 2001 Mastercraft X Star. Voltmeter doesn’t work at all, Water temp starts at 90-100 then slowly goes down to nothing as the boat runs. Other gauges work ok. Ideas?
Hi Ron thanks for all the help! It’s the best. I have 2002 prostar 209. After running boat for half hour. Once in a when I bring back to neutral oil pressure seems to go low. Alarm goes off and reads Oil 3
First check oil level, then what weight oil are you using, should be 10-40 or 15-40 weight oil. My next question would be what does the gauge show when idling right after start-up and again at 1500+ within the first 5 minutes. If normal early on, then only shows low pressures when hot I would suspect the oil. Make sure the oil doesn't smell like gas either.
I'm just getting ready to do this on a boat that's sitting in the water of Lake Alhambra. Looks like I'm going to have to weight the aft end down to get the angle you're speaking of. Perfect instructional video, explained everything in great detail! Thank you so much Ron!
Thank you Ron you give so much in helping Your videos are the best and allow boaters to understand how simple or complex repairing can be I just bought a tranny from you cant wait to install I am doing a complete engine switch out and the new replacement transmission is the last part Thank You
On closed cooling stern drive boats if you put to much concentrated antifreeze in will it overheat? All passages are clean new pump risers manifolds but temp is 170 this year ntead of 160. Stat is new too. 80 ocean. Thta`s the only thing i can think of. Also guage and sensor new too.
I use a washing machine hose. Connect one end to the garden hose, connect the other end to a 3/4 pipe 4” nipple. The O.D. of the pipe fits perfectly in the 1” intake hose.
I have a 98 Malibu echelon with the medallion system, my gauges work intermittently, and sometimes oil pressure and water temperature are pegged as far over as they can go, so 80psi oil pressure and 240 degree water temp. When they go out I can get them to come back by wiggling the small oval connector. Any suggestions?
@@kadencleaves6554 Faulty stepper motors will "freeze" the needle in random locations. Generally, wiggling connectors does not relieve this issue, but gently tapping on the gauge pod itself will "loosen" up the frozen stepper. If your gauges are pegging max intermittently, and you can wiggle a connector to relieve the issue, then almost certainly there is corrosion on the connector contacts causing the MDC to think that the inputs are maxed out. Get some deoxit cleaner and clean up both sides of the connector.
If your screwhead is not sinking into your countersink hole, as when installing the Bimini hardware, why do you still countersink for the screw head? The screw head is stopped by the hardware, not settling into the countersink hole?
To avoid future cracking of the gelcoat you don't want the threads of the screw to press against the gelcoat, this is easily achieved by countersinking the hole, which will keep the screw from being in contact with the gelcoat.
I am convinced that no dealer on these late model wakeboats ever checks or sets this with this much detail. Everything is so hacked together now days. Supra dealer has been a nightmare to deal with
Ron big shout out on this how too video. After I had checked my timming and it was all over the place. Purchased the exact Pertronix you had installed. My Supra comp runs like new if not better. I was a bit hesitant on pulling my distributor, however you gave me the confidence to attempt. Thanks to you and Sara for helping solve my problem problem
Great video. I intend to use this as my guide for the same process. I have a 1990 Ski Natique with a PCM 351. Two questions, 1) should I by pass the resistor feeding the coil? 2) Is my 351 PCM PLD-PR-R12PP a Windsor engine., to ensure I get the correct distributor/coil? Thanks again for a great video..
Our distributors come with a correct new coil, and does not use a ballast resister. 1990 Correct crafts should be standard rotation but I would double check, if the front pulleys are rotating clock-wise it is a standard rotation engine/distributor, if counter-clockwise it is a Reverse rotation engine/distributor.
Do you have any idea to adjust the throttle tension. My throttle will not hold its position when running, if I take my hand off the lever it goes back to idle. Bad news when going through rough water if you need a hand to adjust the trim tabs or something. Wants to put you through the windshield :( Thanks
I just replaced my shock absorber that was definitely bad. It seems like the master cylinder was good and squirting juice…however the whole hitch assembly still slams back and forth upon braking and acceleration. Does that mean the master is bad or that they just aren’t bled properly or is there a whole different problem?
A small amount of fore/aft play is normal 1/8" -1/4" but not 3/4" to 1" If the brakes are bled correctly and the fluid is up you should be able to compress the actuator about 1/4" before it gets hard and begins to stop the wheels, the harder you compress the harder the brakes will expand/stop the wheel. Leaking lines will also cause this as the fluid is pushed out.
Thank you! There seems to be more play in it than that and the thud it makes is pretty bad. I am getting fluid out of the bleeders, but I can move the plunger fairly easily, more than 1/8”. At this point I am assuming the master cylinder is weak/bad and I’m need of replacement?
This video was great, referred back to it several times during my project. I would have e liked to have seen how you managed to cheat the distributor put by prying on it. I rented a slide hammer.
Hey Ron ! Awesome videos. I been purchasing your stuff as well. I am looking to do this job on my ski boat as well. Wondering if you might know my specs it is a 1990 blue water pro am skier. With a 1” output shaft. Would you happen to know my sleeve bearing measurements ? Any guidance would help so I can order off your website :) @rontanis1024
