I'm a maker and build movie props, mostly Star Wars blasters and lightsabers. I do dabble with cars. I have a Porsche Cayman and a 2001 Subaru Impreza GC8 2.5 RS.
15 minutos de video para colocar la columna y usarlo como fresadora y lo mas interesante era ver su funcion como fresadora, y............nada solo palabras y gestito con la mano ,.....que tristeza ,
OH Man! I would never turn away a studio prop mold cast by Frank Cerney! Especially since it's from molds made by Dave Jones!!! THE DAVE JONES! A MAN WHO HAD A JOB I COULD ONLY DREAM OF HAVING! Rest in Piece Dave, you are missed by those of us who knew you were behind the scenes! If only I was living in the region where I could have been in the right time and the right place. I feel the same way about MPC model kits. As model companies do, MPC is a lot less accurate nor fastidious about model cleanliness and detail, unlike kits like Revel/Monogram or Tamiya. The one thing about MPC models which is a bonus, is the plastic is a lot more forgiving than resin towards types of glue used. The Glue you need to use for Resin needs to be a bit more harsh than for plastic. One building tip I offer to anyone with low experience with resin models for the serious glue I have used for Resin kits the best way to ensure the good grip on the resin, is to use a mildly abrasive household cleaner called Vim. It has a very fine pumice in it that allows you to clean the parts of their release agent and very gently abrade the surface to allow the glue to have more grip, and with some resin molds I have gotten the surface was too shiny smooth for the look I was going for so I used the Vim to clean the whole model and it worked great for the overall look I was going for. In a pinch some regular non-gel toothpaste would do the trick too. Thanks for sharing the unboxing of the "grail" item Ultimate Pyro X-wing! It's beautiful! And very big!
I'd definitely light this one, do it justice and go full bore studio on it even if it takes years. Do it for Porkins man!!! Congratulations on picking one up.
i was watching at some of your book reviews. In your opinion which are the top 5 SW (Original trilogy) books when it comes to reference pictures? Im doing some modeling. Cheers
Chronicles vehicles is the best but it’s very expensive. Second I would say the regular chronicles book. Third would be sculpting a galaxy. Fourth would be Objets Du Mythe. Not sure I’d recommend a fifth for modeling.
I haven’t tried to rust anything myself. I know just applying salt water will induce rusting. I’ve heard about some method about putting it in tea, but I’ve don’t know the particulars of that method.
Like 'The Mask' replica, a whole lot. Obviously, it's from the movie, but is it from the Jim Carrey version, or the original 1966(ish?), Peter Cushing horror film🎞️???
Aawww! I’m so glad you documented this! Had so much fun watching your expression! Teecrooz is the man, and has helped so many in the community obtain these hardest to find items. I’ve been watching and supporting your channel since day one, you’re a kind, passionate member of the community, you have no idea how happy I am for ya!
This is such an amazing example man. Huge congrats, they’re only getting scarcer and scarcer. Ive got a male 16 hole balance pipe from Lewis on its way to me at the moment, so I’ll need to get somebody to convert that - probably the best I’ll get the way things are going! I have a question also. My hales is in lovely shape, but is covered in the light brown / red paint. Do you have any advice for stripping the paint and re - spraying ? Or re - blue-ing? I would love to know how you do it 😊 Huge congratulations again. So so happy, and very jealous of you.
Awesome, yeah I almost went for an uncut one too. Pretty much whatever you do is going to remove the blueing/patina on the part that has the paint. I've used a couple methods, I tend to prefer using a wire wheel with a Dremel, but it's kind of messy. Chemicals work well but you have to make sure to neutralize them, and again they are messy. Applying the blueing is easy, make sure it's very clean, I would heat the metal slightly, apply the blueing, rub with steel wool and repeat until it matches in darkness. Hope that helps.
@@dustinwalruff I will do just that then. Maybe all us converted BP owners should have some form of inscription on the inner bp to protect buyers, seeing this way might be the only way sooner or later.. Enjoy being one stop closer to the real deal mate. Looking forward to seeing you get it done! 🤞
That's awesome! Congrats! I have a converted male on my Obi. Probably the best I'll be able to do, so I'm happy with it. If Dave P has any left, his adapter works great!
Oh yes! I’m so happy to see you get a pipe. You need to put the bevel on the back. That inconel metal is so hard, it took me a bit of work and courage to do mine. Score, congratulations!
I just googled cayman 987.1 third brake light and it came up. I think I bought it from Pelican parts, it’s been a few years since I bought it so I can’t remember for sure. Hope that helps.
@@dustinwalruff Yes, thanks. My light isn’t as bad as yours but it seems to have paint on the plastic shell which is peeling and bothers my OCD (joking). Not sure it’s worth the effort to replace though.
Great work. When you mentioned the bubbles in part one I thought, “Well, how bad can it be?” But in this video you really show how far gone the original mold was. Lots of work. Great job. Also, my BEANS shirt is holding up better than yours. I get lots of compliments. Thank you.
Awesome, glad your shirt is doing better than mine. Once I put the primer on you can really see how many bubbles are in the casting. I knew it was bad but didn't realize how bad until that point, it's was even hard to see with the naked eye.
This is really really cool!! I read somewhere in the RPF forum that user Peter.... (can't remember the rest of the name) bought a last pull hero cast from the original mold. If it's the same prop, I think what you're holding in your hands is technically an original mask! It looks beautiful and I look forward to seeing the painting process. I have three masks, one made by a seller from Brazil, the other is from ReelArt, and the third mask is a recast of a first gen replica that I would like to repaint because it is identical to the original prop but it has too much brown paint.
Nice quality tool! Start messing around with it on aluminum, brass, and maybe some soft steel. Have fun. By the way I saw your helmet in the background- were you/are you a pilot?
I have the original Miniature Microflame torch. It is a complete set with case, cylinders, instructions, etc. It is in excellent condition. I have not been able to get more cylinders. They are not made anymore.
the no'x. is available as a whip cream item. look for "whip it" whip cream. the other tank you need to modify one (more?) tank with a pressure valve to "squirt" in the gas. the way how is online.
