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Is it a good idea to use WD40 to remove the tacky material that adheres to the ball coming from the conveyor belt? It actually removes it quickly rather than using the ethyl alcohol
Target arrow should move a bit left also, about half arrow left when doing 6, about 1 arrow left when doing 10. I don't know why in some of their videos they ignore it, but I do learn it from one of their old videos somewhere.
Interesting. Here he talks about different surface changes then shows us four different balls with no mention of surface changes and instead shows us ball shapes. And of course we wouldn’t want to show the ball name with those specs less we offend ball companies. What I think would help most bowlers is to tell them, this is ball A, a Storm ?, it is a solid, it has had no surface changes, this is the shape it rolls and I use it on fresh oil, perhaps game one. It usually gives me a lot of early strikes. But if I start seeing 10 pin leaves I go to this ball that continues better, it is x, it has been sanded with 4000 grit…etc. just sayin
I keep mine in my bag... and my loose one wrap in the ball polisher. And then on a foam holder.. my balls I don't use I keep on a ball rack I have at home hope thease are all good places.
I like to keep mine in their original plastic bag inside the boxes they came in. If it works for storage at the warehouse and pro shop, then I figure it should work for me.
I used a 500 grit abralon pad on a 2000 lss ball surface and I got alot more hook on the ball like illustrated in the video. Surface changes make a huge difference and help you to dial in your balls to what you are looking for out of each ball.
I am want know as I am hook ball 15 pound ball but I am 137.5 avg bowler but I am finding hard can tell me what weight better 13 pound or 14 pounds ball
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Every video I've watched says you do not want to throw shiny weak bowling balls on short oil patterns. Use urethane or strong bowling balls that hook early so you can control the back end
My proshop guy said you could simply use Rubbing Alcohol to clean a reactive ball. This doesn't seem likely to me since that has oil in it. Can this work?
This is a much better video compared to the one made a few years back on this channel. The previous video on how to increase revs was very demoralizing by essentially telling bowlers "if you don't start young your SOL." Even if that wasn't the intent, that certainly was the message that was perceived by many to be conveyed. I think people realize after a certain point physical limitations correlated with aging impacts their ability to perform certain tasks but they do not need to be told that. This video, on the other hand, just sticks to the topic at hand and does a great job. Thank you for releasing an updated video on this topic without the negativity.
I can't figure out what kind of ball to get from this video. When you go somewhere they say "Reactive", "Urethane", "Plastic".. None of them understand "Shiny".
I'm going to work on implementing this. I've worked a lot to migrate my balance arm from flailing around out left to now being down and out in front of my body. But my thumb is still pointed up. If I'm in a competitive situation I have a tendency to feel tense, and my body locks up and pulls the ball a lot. For years I tried everything to fix this, and nothing helped. Finally I realized that by focusing not on my arm swing, but on the position of my left hand, I execute great shots. Because I can't tense up and pull the ball, while getting my balance arm out where it should be. I think getting my thumb pointed down instead of up will help take things to next level.
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So im trying to help my 50 yr old sister get back into bowling after 14 years. Need advice on a ball. 12 pound Slower speed - 10-12 mph. Low rev rate Looking at polished, perhaps the Arctic Vibe? Welcome your thoughts. P/s not brand specific
The ‘Ask an Expert’ section is currently for paid members of our online community. You can submit your question via email to programdirector@program-director.net.
if you lose oil at front..it does carry down..if it simply got lost on front ball would hook early and go high,not hook one time and skid the next..you are getting carry down and can not trust reactive ball.