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Great video! Thanks. You showed things very clearly with lots of different angles and thanks for showing the whole new part first - it makes it easier to follow during the disassembly.
This guide was a great help I have just installed a front dash cam on a BMW X5 E70 Australia model, Fuse #10 is a bit difficult to reach so I used Fuse #19 which also has 5A fuse for my hardwire kit.
Could be. There are the same size bolts that hold bell housing. Taking a reference of the main bolt locations with the new starter and the distance between the two bolts would help you out. Hope you get thru this 💪💪💪
@@autowestend appreciate you this video got me there 💪🏾 I’ll take another look at it soon. I was just happy my socket finally locked on to something up there😂
I know that's a time-consuming one... I don't have plans to remove them for now, but if I decide to replace the lens or upgrade Angel eyes, I'll do it on this channel 💪
@@autowestend hi! i like the piaa yellow, is everything still working well? the headlight lens weren't affected for the heat of this more intensive color?
@jesuschue1145 Thank you for watching! Still working well and its original Angeles eyes were also halogen, so seems no heat issue till this day. This yellow is definitely deeper and thicker in yellow than yellow LED 🤙 I might try PIAA vs LED side by side someday for comparison
Thank you for watching! A previos owner has installed after market backup camera, so I just used that wiring from the rear to the headunit upfront. But I did similar routing process before in these videos. Hope these give you some ideas ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Vkj2HduUhsc.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Xibk0tjTYn0.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-efKgfqCfhgg.html
Some say it is better to get alignment. But I'm thinking of getting an alignment after replacing the worn-out tie rod since replacing the thrust arm doesn't affect the alignment dramatically as the tie rods 🤔
Nice vid! What kind of symptoms did you experience before changing the control arm? Does the wheel not go in straight line once you let go of the steering wheel? Thankss
Thank you! More like annoying vibrations when going over even a tiny bump on the road. Feels like the car is always shaking, except when driving on a really nice surface
Mainly the donut-shaped rubber parts right on top of the strut mount and worn out bushings and ball joints on tension struts 🤙 And I’ve uploaded some videos of them a while ago
Usually, torque spec info is online, typing BMW workshop manuals or similar phrases. And look into the Tightening Torque section. But these databases are tend to be huge volumes, so take a time to locate the specific page. Meanwhile I’ll post in the video whenever I come across finding one 👍 Good luck with your next project 🤙
lol lol I’ve got exactly the same Blo-y squick on mine.4.8 V8 E70 2007 every morning the same until I’ve traveled about 10 miles then it gos..so will be replacing the belts first and see if that works thanks for the vid 👌🏻🇬🇧
@@autowestend sorted it I did put a new pulley tensioner on and belt but that wasn’t where the squick was..it was the Alternator BELT 🤷new belt BLISS sorted 👌🏻
It came with this head-unit in this video below. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-qE84CqLVMro.htmlsi=8DCMLMMNLB6e_ZQb In case it’s not available, here the similar products 🤙 s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DltQM8f
Good video, thanks for sharing, and for the tip on the ball joint separator, it’s a great tool. You may also want to try using a penetrating spray like “Big Shot” on the ball joint, you will find that it should make a big difference in helping dislodging it.
