It's not on the pressure adjustment knob, it's the toggle switch opposite the knob. There's a diagram in the manual. If you don't have the manual anymore just search "Magnum X5 Manual" and you'll find a link to Graco's online manual.

Not to mention futzing with the damn ball and spring.

Glad it helped!

Good to hear, Graco's technical support is very good.

Good to hear, glad it helped!

Sprayers aren't always going to be faster, even the manufacturer will tell you that. Sometimes it's absolutely faster to just grab a roller or a brush for a small job when you factor in the clean up afterwards or the prep work to mask for over-spray. That said, you won't get the same results with a roller that you'll get with a sprayer, so it's not always just about speed. There's no such thing as a tool that's perfect for every situation. Also, like anything else you get quicker the more you use it.

Also, they’re cheap. Especially project painters. If it’s not working it’s because you didn’t clean it well enough, and neither did I which is why I’m watching this video! Watching this video tells us exactly how to clean it so it doesn’t get clogged up again!

@@paschalmiller3819 I have to disagree here. I'm a fanatic about cleaning the machine every single time I use it. And I mean every. single. time. I run the hose, I take a toothbrush and do the tip, I take out the filters and wash them, I always use that blue goo, and - every time except for the first time I used it I have to screw around with the thing to get it to prime.

Could have saved a whole lot more time if you weren’t commenting on sprayer videos when you don’t like spraying.

You must not know what you're doing my guy

Great, hopefully you get many more years out of it. It's a nice sprayer.

TV drds

Because DIY homeowners don’t know any different. No professional would use this. It is a toy. I’ll stick with my Kremlin EOS and 10-14’s.

Your best bet would be to contact Graco's customer support directly. Go to Graco.com and under Support there's a Contact Us spot that will get you in touch with support wherever you happen to be in the world.

Distribution channels, one is for Sherwin Williams stores the other is for everyone else. Identical machines.

True, they don't give specific recommendations in the video, but there are literally hundreds of different rollers and brushes on the market and every store is going to have a different selection. There are lots of very good options and if you're buying Benjamin Moore paint, you're in a Benjamin Moore store and you will be given recommendations on applicators. I would never let someone grab the wrong roller without tactfully suggesting one that would work better. That's just the service you would expect from a Benjamin Moore store.

Spent some time with a graco rep who was demonstrating this the other day. I was blown away. It works exactly like a regular airless. The cup on top is gravity fed but it cleans just like a regular airless. So much better than the other portables they've come out with over the past few years. Might have been the coolest sprayer I've seen.

@@jtedesco0708 Nice to hear some feedback from firsthand experience. Thanks!

I work for sherwin williams and it could only hold a quart worth of paint but good news is tht it can take both oil and acrylic paint

Pretty clever design. Looks like it would be a real time saver for smaller jobs. Not to mention the product savings not having to prime a 25' or 50' hose.

I think that's a pretty standard sound level. I have access to sell Tritech's also, and they're all between 82 and 89dbs. As are Gracos. Yes, that's pretty loud, but it seems like that's what it is for now until one of the manufacturers manages to find a way of making them quieter and they all follow suit.

@@leducwallfashions Yes, but there is a pretty big difference with a unit 50-100' away vs. one w/ a 6 foot hose. If this thing works out, it will be worth wearing earplugs for.

@@ILruffian True, hadn't thought of that. I wonder how many decibels make it to you from the big machines and if it wouldn't be a bad idea to wear earplugs with them too?

@@leducwallfashions I'm going to download a dB meter app and find out. I wear plugs a lot. Screw up once during training in my police career. No hearing damage, but I do get ringing if exposed again. It can happen *so* fast. I will always pay extra for quiet tools. California compressors, for example. That said, I did dump my Fuji Q5 for Apollo. Just a superior product.

@@leducwallfashions Do we know what the difference is between the Ultra and Ultimate versions yet?

Don't blame you. Haven't brought one in yet, but it looks like a great option for smaller jobs.

I contacted Graco and apparently it's being scheduled to be released in the UK sometime in May . Price to be announced but judging by prices i've seen in the States and Oz i'm guessing around £1200 - £1400.

£1200 GBP apparently. It's too much for that. I'd rather have a gxff cordless with a proper pump. If you watch a video by painting by Josh, the pump sounds just like my ultra and they aren't the most reliable tools. But let's🤞🏻 is better.

@@danielwoolcock7267 that is certainly the issue. I have a 390 and an ultra. This looks more like an ultra upgrade than anything else.

@@xxnonstopdancingxx definitely, I think they had a lot of complaints about the weight on your wrist etc so they've designed it a different way..

Any chance I can spray BIN, Cover Stain, or Sherwin Williams emerald urethane paint through a 1.4mm tip without thinning?

@@barnes80 Shallac based BIN (red can), no problem through a 1.4. Cover stain, probably also OK (depends on the brand). SW Emerald, not a chance in he** that's going through a 1.4. You need at least a 2.0; the last time I used it, I actually had to use my airless. I was NOT a fan of that paint at all for cabinets, it didn't setup hard enough. I know it's supposedly designed for cabinets, but it would never be my first (or even 2nd/3rd/4th) choice. Target Coatings pigmented lacquer sprays great through a 2.0 and sets up nice and hard in ~1 day. Or a traditional lacquer if you have the ability to control the fumes and can deal with the flammability.

I think you might be confusing dry time with cure time. Advance is dry to the touch in 4-6 hours, but like all paints cure time is much longer. A good ballpark generalization for most paints is 20 days to fully cure (Some are a bit more or a bit less).

You can, there's a "but" though. If you use a poly over paint there's a couple things to consider. One, not all polyurethanes, even waterbased, are actually clear and may change the color of your paint. Benjamin Moore's "Stays Clear" and Old masters "Masters Armor" are both very clear. Also, make sure you let the paint cure before you apply a clear coat. Paint dries in hours, but takes much longer to fully cure. (Use twenty days as a general guideline.) If you seal moisture in before it gets a chance to fully evaporate out, you'll most likely end up with air bubbles. As for durability though, Advance is very durable on it's own. I've used it on furniture and never felt the need to top coat it. Hope that helps.

Yeah, they're right. The only reason you need a primer in the first place is for adhesion because of the clear coat that's on the cabinets. (lacquer, polyurethane, etc) Your bonding primer will do that for you. Now, one thing to know before you start is that oak is a very open grain wood, meaning that the grain is three dimensional not just visual. If you were hoping the extra coat of primer might fill the grain, unfortunately it won't. Film finishes like paint and primer go on in micron thicknesses so they won't fill, they'll just go with whatever texture is there. (Like the varnish that's on it now) If you want to fill the grain, you can, but it's a lot of work. (check RU-vid for grain filling oak. The Wood Whisperer has a good one) Also, if you go with the lower sheen satin Advance instead of the semi gloss you won't notice it as much.

@@leducwallfashions Yes, filling grain would be too much work for my 25+ doors. I guess I'll need to sand smooth before my oil based primer and see how it looks. Thanks

@@tomprzytula I wouldn't put too much effort into sanding before you prime, just give it a light scuff to give the primer a better surface to bond to. You'll never get it smooth by sanding, the grain goes all the way through the wood. Think of a sponge, as you go down through it you just expose more bubbles, you never get a smooth surface. That said, with the less shiny satin finish it's really not that bad.

@@leducwallfashions how about one coat of primer and 3 coats of Advance paint (instead of 2 top coats)? I realize I won't get rid of all grain, just trying to minimize it...

@@tomprzytula Unfortunately, that won't really do much. It's like fixing dents or gouges in your wall, you need joint compound. I'd also be concerned about the paint curing properly if you do three coats. The solvent in the first coat may not be able to evaporate out fully during the curing process, which could lead to problems down the road. To be honest, we always warn people when they're painting oak, but everyone's always happy with the results. It's just good to know what to expect going in.

No, sorry I don't. That said, any sort of video screen distorts color, so the color you're seeing on the screen isn't exactly what it would look like in person. Take your phone to a Benjamin Moore store, pause the video, and get an associate to help you find a similar color you like.

On the Benjamin Moore website it says Blueberry Hill 812.

Blue

If you go to gianigranite.com they have info about the different kits they have. (They're all a bit different) Some have actual minerals in the paint, etc. The sheen comes from the clear top coat not the paint, it's gloss. They're good quality and easy to use.

No I don't, sorry.

They're both very good, as is Insl-X Stix adhesion primer. (Insl-X is also a Benjamin Moore company) The key is the surface prep though, make sure it's clean and give all surfaces a light sand to degloss and give the primer a bit of a mechanical bond. And give the primer a light sand as well before you paint. Primer doesn't level like paint so there will be texture there.

@@leducwallfashions thank you. I guess I’m wondering whether one of these primers leaves more texture than the others.

@@Avital4414 I doubt it (never done a side by side), but all primers are going to need to be sanded. They're easy to sand, so if there is a difference it wouldn't be much. The better question is what primer gives better adhesion. It doesn't really matter how good it looks if it chips over time. (Chipping is an adhesion issue) We kind of lean towards Stix for adhesion, but all three are good.

@@leducwallfashions thank you. I used Stix in the past, and I will pick up some more. Extremely helpful

@@Avital4414 You're welcome!

The Matte is actually meant for walls where you don't need the durability you need on trim/ doors/cabinets. It's durable for a matte, but it's still a matte, so no it's not as durable as semi-gloss.

@@leducwallfashions oh ok. So it is probably not a good idea for cabinets? I thought the whole line of advanced paint is for cabinet. I might misunderstood.

@@od2437 The matte came out later, after Advance was established as a great cabinet paint so it's a bit unclear. Advance isn't a cabinet paint per say, It's a waterborne alkyd. What that means is that it's alkyd resins (oil), but they're waterborne. So, it smells like a latex paint, cleans up with soap and water, like a latex, but it dries slow, like an oil, and hard, like an oil. The slow dry time and drying hard makes it great for cabinets,trim, furniture, doors, etc. The line wasn't developed for cabinets, it's just that the pearl, semi-gloss, and gloss are fantastic choices for that use. Hope that makes it more clear, paint can be a bit confusing. To be a bit self-serving, that's why Benjamin Moore stores are so good, we can help you get the right product for your specific project.

@@leducwallfashions got it. Thank you so much!

@@od2437 You're welcome

Out of context, I'm not sure what he was getting at? (Most things can be painted, there are a few exceptions, but not many.) IKEA cabinets can be painted, the key is the prep work before the paint. You'll want to clean them very well, give them a light scuff sand, and use an "adhesion" primer, not an all purpose primer that says it has good adhesion. We recommend Insl-x Stix primer (Insl-x is a Benjamin Moore company) You'll also want to give the primer a light sand too. Primers don't level like paint and on a smooth surface that texture will show after you paint over it. For paint, yes Advance would be your best option, it really is a beautiful product.

@@leducwallfashions Thank you for your helpful reply! The IKEA cabinets have a foil finish, if this matters.

@@Shakashack2022 You're welcome. The foil wrap poses the same adhesion problem as oil paint, polyurethane, etc. Same procedure, scuff sand, coat with Stix primer, light sand, two coats of Advance. Also, if you have the time, adhesion primers will achieve better adhesion if you can leave them for 24 hours before you top coat them.

We try not to over-hype products, better to under-promise and over-deliver, but yeah it really is a great product.

There's not really one right answer to that. Generally, yeah you can roll, just make sure you have the right roller for the job. If you're painting something smooth, like a cabinet or door, make sure you're using a very low nap roller so you don't get added texture. (Nap refers to the length of the fibres. 1/4" (5mm) is good for smooth surfaces) If you get some texture when you roll you can go back over it with a brush to smooth it.

You could apply in any way, even with sucking paint up with a straw and blowing it out on top of your surface