Do not be discouraged, settle for number 1 no metter what and remember beeing second does not say about you anything bad. Learn to loose, maybe this is what you need. 😮
Thank you so much for the exact hint with the flat screwdriver! I tried to press the button with pliers, but it only damage the connector. This push from a side with the screwdriver really worked out! I even heard a click of the lock released.
My old dishwasher and dryer are Miele, 20 years and going strong within one single glitch. New washing machine was barely out of warranty and it started developing clunking sounds, which seem to come from the top rear spring (no clue how to stop that). It also started moving around (feet are set right and I checked with a level, it's all level), and now barely 7 years in and the heating element is acting up. They really don't make them like they used. Going to measure resistance of the element tomorrow and swap it out if necessary. Inside is clean, at least that. My old Hotpoint went 18 years with all its original parts ... starting to regret it
As a follow-up .. opened it all up, checked condition of the resistance through the side hole (removing the plug you show in your video) ... it was fine, not blackened. It measured 24ohm so in working condition, nothing between ground and the two plugs on the resistance either. Pulled out the temp sensor and cleaned it, it had some calcium deposited on it. Also saw that on some other Miele units F20 might refer to drain filter blockage so checked that - other than a slight film of fiber deposit on the side walls it all seemed OK though. Also cleaned inside the rubber of the door while it was open to prevent any lint moving from there to the drain filter. Checked no kinks in the drainage and water supply hoses. It's running now on the 40°C programme and will try a second load at 60°C after that. Grand thing of the WDB020 manual ... no mention of the F20 error. You have to go to their website and that just says "heating, ask for technical intervention" ... sure
Just confirming, the left and right 'wobble' is due to the AFS mechanism right? and it sorts itself out ana aligns properly after refitting? Also, I dont suppose there is any height adjustment as my low beams seem very low (and feeble)
Thanks for sharing this invaluable info especially about the captive screws. A later model lid has a whole push bar so you need to back off the screws with a T20 then push forward to disengage the latch (both sides)
I only needed to access the electrical connection and a fuel line to pump gas out of the tank using the fuel pump so I didn’t need to remove the ring. Sorry.
Hi. I just followed your video exactly and swapped out the heating element. The element was covered in calcium and had black burn marks not unlike yours. I spent £35 on a new element which probably saved me over £300. So just to say thank-you.
@@joshpage4848my understanding has always been that they are interchangable. T15 bulbs are slightly bigger and longer than T10 bulbs but have the same size wedge base. and thats the issue. it falls out inside the housing.....and then hail mary. no way to get it out. Just kept trying with another spare and some sticky tape to hold onto the connector till locked back into the housing.
At around 0:50 it says there is no need to remove the screws. Make that: if you remove the screws the top will not come off! They control latches which close when the screws are removed. Took me half an hour and this video to figure it out.
