Hey folks and welcome to my amateur astrophotography channel!
I’m Chris, a physicist with a passion for all things cosmic and I’ve crafted a step-by-step course that takes you from the basics of astronomy, through the hardware you’ll need, to the software that will help you capture stunning images. Here, you'll find everything a beginner needs-whether it’s understanding star movement, choosing the right mount, or learning how to process your images. This channel is designed to be your go-to guide in making astronomy not only educational but also fun! As a science teacher (physics, math, IT), I believe in structured learning. So, the course is broken down into easy-to-follow lessons: • A) Basic theory • B) Hardware • C) Software • D) Image acquisition • E) Processing ...and so much more!
Join me on this journey to explore the universe, where every newcomer can feel confident and excited to learn!
No matter what i do, stellarium says "No landscape was installed. The selected file is not a ZIP archive or does not contain a stellarium landscape." when i have a 2048x1014 72 PPI PNG file i zipped using winrar
The issue you're facing with Stellarium likely stems from the fact that creating custom landscapes for Stellarium requires more than just a PNG file. Along with the PNG, you also need an accompanying landscape.ini file that contains essential information such as the landscape name, type, and file references. Here's what you should do: 1. Create a folder: Inside the folder, include your PNG file and a corresponding landscape.ini file. 2. Format the PNG: Make sure your image is in the correct format for Stellarium, which typically expects a panorama image that is twice as wide as it is high (e.g., 2048x1024 pixels) with a transparent sky. This allows Stellarium to show the stars properly. The landscape should be a 360° horizontal panorama. 3. Add the landscape.ini file: This file should include basic information like this: [landscape] name = YourLandscapeName author = YourName description = Description of the landscape type = spherical maptex = YourImageFileName.png angle_rotatez = 0 4. Compress into a ZIP: Once your folder contains both the PNG and the ini file, zip the entire folder (not just the files) and install it through the "Add/remove landscapes" option in Stellarium. By ensuring both the PNG and ini file are included, Stellarium will be able to correctly interpret the landscape data and apply it.
@@catchingphotons ye of course i have the ini file in there with all the info written correctly. I didnt know you need to format the PNG tho, i will try to figure that out Edit : Ah i thought formatting meant something else in this case, i already have the png at the right resolution and im zipping the .ini file and the png together, doesnt work
Collimating with the stars really does make sense, because you already have all your equipment in the focusser and therefore alle the possible bending in the focusser itself or the tube is there.
Hi, very nice video thanks. 2 questions: For this video, you record only short raw videos of the objects without tracking? And then you post process it? (Because I have a telescope but not motorised so no tracking possible…) Question 2: What do you think about the same system (iphone adapter) mounted on a GoTo telescope like celestron nexstar 8se. Would I be able to make nice astrophoto of the nebulas for example, thanks to the scope + its tracking system? Because investing in a full astrophoto set up seems to be 3000 + easy.. Thanks for your answer!
Hi @Jolatruite974, thank you for your kind words and your questions! Question 1: Yes, in the video, I used a telescope equipped with tracking to capture the planets. However, it's worth noting that tracking is not strictly necessary for planetary imaging, as the exposure times are very short. Even if the planet moves across the field of view during the recording, you can still capture enough data in a few seconds to produce a good image. So, even without tracking, you can still obtain decent results, especially if you're just starting out. Question 2: Mounting your iPhone on a GoTo telescope like the Celestron NexStar 8SE would indeed be a good setup for both planetary and some deep sky astrophotography. The tracking capability will certainly improve your images. For planetary imaging, it will allow the planet to stay in the field of view longer, enabling you to capture longer videos, which is essential for stacking a high number of frames to improve image quality.For deep sky astrophotography, tracking is even more critical because it allows for the longer exposures needed to capture faint details. While the NexStar 8SE is primarily designed for planetary imaging, you can experiment with it for deep sky objects. The key is to determine the maximum exposure time before stars start to trail. Once you find that limit, you can adjust your exposure times accordingly. In summary, the NexStar 8SE with tracking is a great setup for planetary imaging and could also be used for some deep sky objects with careful experimentation. It’s a versatile and relatively budget-friendly option compared to a full astrophotography setup. I hope this helps, and clear skies!
Excellent video, very informative. A query - I use a refractor with 60mm aperture and 900 mm focal length manual eq mount telescope for visual astronomy. Will it give satisfactory images by increasing exposure time if I use it for planetary imaging or you would like to suggest an alternative.
Your telescope, with its 900-millimeter focal length and 60-millimeter aperture, appears to be an entry-level model based on its specifications. However, this is by no means a limitation. I recommend fully maximizing the potential of your current scope before considering an upgrade. It's often more practical to explore the full capabilities of your existing equipment and only consider upgrading once you’ve truly reached its limits. As for your question about exposure time, achieving a precise focus is crucial for capturing high-quality planetary images. The exposure duration for each individual subframe should be kept short. It’s essential to wait for optimal seeing conditions-you’ll recognize them when they occur. When these conditions are met, you can capture one to two minutes of video footage at the highest possible frame rate. In post-processing, you can stack the frames using free software like AutoStakkert, and then sharpen the final image. You might be surprised by the impressive results you can achieve with a modest telescope. Best regards!
Superbe vidéo Chris ! J'ai suivi toutes les instructions à la lettre, mais lorsque j'installe mon "landscape" dans Stellarium, mon image est rose ?? Vous avez une idée pourquoi ? Merci , Paul
Bonjour, je suis désolé d'apprendre cela. Sans plus de détails, il m'est difficile de comprendre ce qui se passe. Peut-être pourriez-vous décrire vos étapes de traitement de manière plus détaillée afin que je puisse vous aider. Je vous souhaite une excellente journée. À bientôt.
Inside the .zip file, you'll find an .ini file that allows you to reorient your landscape image. By adjusting the 'north position' in degrees, as well as the altitude and azimuth settings, you can align your image precisely with the actual background of your backyard. Cheers!
Hello! The screw size you'll need largely depends on the specific female screw adapter of your mount. In my case, the adapter is M12, which is why I opted for that screw size. To ensure a secure fit, I recommend attaching the screw to a plastic adapter head, which will provide better grip, and using a washer (Zwischenlegescheibe) to achieve a tight fit. If these components are not included with your mount, you may need to retrofit them to securely attach your scope. Wishing you clear skies!
@@catchingphotons Hello, Thank you for the very thorough reply. That is all helpful information. You are correct regarding retrofitting! I am having someone 3d print me a component that will fit in the hollow column as a sort of adapter or plug which has the screw protruding from the top side, so as to attach mounts etc.
Thanks Buddy! And it's not even particularly good on planetary because of the limited focal length (750mm) and the necessary usage of barlow lenses. Cheers!
Thanks!! We are seeing the rotation of the outer atmosphere layers. All parts of Jupiter's "layers" are rotating and as I understand this the rotational differences between the layers - most importantly the core - result in the unimaginably strong magnetic fields of Jupiter. Cheers!!
Well, 4 years later and you helped me realize that the circles with the look of small secondary mirrors all over my screen was actually stars. All I had to do was fine focus and I would have been good. Thanks! Also me from the future, you are going to love the new Astro cameras! lol!
@@catchingphotons I would love to see a comparison on stability and vibration dampness of Wooden/Aluminium/CF/Steel. Same Scope/Mount/Same Magnification . The Carbon Fiber tripods are relatively new for Astro use so whether it can damp as well as wood, I have not seen a proper comparison done.
I was looking for a Nikon P1000 until this caught my attention. Now I see that the Dwarf II only has 675mm equivalent focal length while the P1000 has 3000. Can I conclude that for use during daylight I better wait for a successor of the P1000?
I understand that the Nikon P1000 is a dedicated daylight photography DSLR like camera. This is a totally disjuncted category. The dwarf is a stationary camera, with its own strengths and weaknesses but with totally different objectives. It's like comparing motorbikes and cars. Both drive but... That's nearly all. Cheers!
@@catchingphotons The Nikon P1000 is a multi purpose superzoom bridge camera which has been used over the years in a wide variety of fields like astrophotography, birding etc. In the end its always a combination of optics sensors and software. After doing more research a spotting scope with decent camera mount may be the more appropriate solution if Nikon decides to get out of the superzoom business.
Visual observations only it is very hard to beat a 150mm F/15 Refractor on the Solar system objects At 150mm the seeing remains more stable most of the time. The visual images in my Long Focus Refractor look very nice indeed. Afocal images with an iphone 8 are very nice and no stacking of images. However what the Human Eye sees is still better the most cameras. Now days it is all about letting the camera have all the fun. Very nice presentation.
Hi @derec7793! Using the moon as a reference for size in astrophotography is a handy technique. Here’s how you can do it: 1. **Understand the Moon's Apparent Size**: The moon appears about 0.5 degrees in diameter in the sky. This is roughly 30 arcminutes. 2. **Frame Your Shots**: When capturing other celestial objects, frame them so that the moon’s size gives a sense of scale. For example, if you photograph a planet, compare it to how the moon would fit in the same frame. 3. **Use Planetarium Software**: Tools like Stellarium can show you how big objects appear relative to the moon. This helps in planning your shots and understanding the scale. 4. **Post-Processing Comparison**: In your final image, you can superimpose an image of the moon taken with the same setup to illustrate the size comparison. By using these steps, you can effectively use the moon as a reference point to communicate the scale of other objects in your astrophotography.
Hi @SmeeUncleJoe, Your iPhone can indeed take 360-degree panoramas, but it might require a bit more effort than a single sweep. Here’s how you can achieve it: 1. **Using Pano Mode**: The default iPhone camera app has a Pano mode that typically captures around 240 degrees. To capture a full 360-degree panorama, you’ll need to take two overlapping Pano shots and stitch them together using photo editing software like Photoshop or a free alternative like GIMP [[❞]](support.apple.com/guide/iphone/take-panoramic-photos-iph7e06402b4/ios) [[❞]](www.thinglink.com/blog/step-by-step-guide-how-to-take-360-photos-with-iphone/). 2. **Third-Party Apps**: There are also several apps specifically designed for creating 360-degree panoramas. Apps like Google Street View allow you to take multiple photos and stitch them into a 360-degree image directly on your phone. Another option is the "360 Panorama" app, which uses the phone’s gyroscope to help create seamless 360-degree images [[❞]](support.apple.com/guide/iphone/take-panoramic-photos-iph7e06402b4/ios) [[❞]](www.thinglink.com/blog/step-by-step-guide-how-to-take-360-photos-with-iphone/). 3. **Stitching Photos**: If you opt for taking multiple photos manually, ensure there is a good amount of overlap between each shot. Tools like Microsoft’s Image Composite Editor or Hugin can help you stitch these images together into a seamless 360-degree panorama. By using these methods, you can create a custom background for Stellarium. If you have any more questions or need further assistance, feel free to ask!
You don't point to the adjustment Laser screws, only talk about it. Also this Svbony is pre adjusted and it double glued so adjusting will be hard. FIRST check to see if when you rotate it if the laser does not stay in the center FIRST before using or adjusting the laser screws! To confirm if the Svbony or any laser, take a 2"x4" x 6" piece of wood and used 4 round head screws 2 for the front and 2 for the back of the laser laser and place the screws so they are placing the Svbony laser in the center if the laser and then when turned on point to a wall 25 feet away and see while rotating the laser that it stays in the center, maybe be take a white sheet of paper and put a circle about 1/4" and place laser wood towards the wall and turn on and tape the sheet of paper putting it in the center of the laser and then go and rotate the Svbony laser and see if the laser stays in the center. If not adjust or if you just got from Amazon return it and get another as newer generation lasers are pre adjusted? P.S I don't like how large that center hole on the laser angled scale is. Also if you find the 2" Svbony adapter or the 1.25" is a bit loose just take that scotch tape and wrap a bit fully around the metal part that goes into the EP holder and if 1 layer of tape makes it snug your done, if it's still wobbly then 1 or 2 more wrappings of tape should make it snug.
Hi Chris, thank you so much for this tutorial ! Really helpful To avoid the same struggle I had when implementing into Stellarium : it seems the .ini file should be named "landscape.ini" exactly. If not the software will keep saying that there is no landscape in the zip file.
Might be nice to have a power line/poe connection kit for longer runs. With long term improvements I could see attaching a retractable dome/base onto a solar install rail and help with object tracking/data gathering. Long way to go but some of the choices they made seem like that could be more viable in the next decade.
Very well explained! The visualization with the lines really helped, and the emphasis on "summer/winter/9am/10pm" haha. And now I can't see the night sky without imaging the lines across the spherical night sky!
Nice video ! It makes sense but it's basically still the same with photography that the wider the aperture the more light you get (plus depth). I always like to think about aperture as just being able to see a object from different positions but mashed up in one single and so the wider the more of an objects light can be summed up.
I got the Svbony laser collimator. It has two problems. First, the movement of the screws is not enough to collimate the collimator itself. Thus the laser is always pointing at an angle no matter what I do. Second, the electrical switch is defective: I turn it into position, knock on it, and sometimes it turns on.
