fried my brains out on mushrooms at jalama long ago, 80's, then drank a bunch of beer, all of a sudden it glassed off and got really fucking good but i was useless in the water. was pretty though, i just bobbed around watching it all...
@@singlevideoofafoot5123 Very nice of you to respond. Brings back memories of the ranch we used to boat into off the pier too. Never forget that wind up there too, almost took my door off when opening the car and not careful. Blessings to you buddy.
Looks like they are surfing single fin boards …ah the good old days , when you could go for a surf , actually get heaps of waves without hassling or being “Oied “ by some chick on a mal .
I drove to Jalama from SB early one morning, it was as big as I had ever seen. Damn near drowned, didn't even make it out lol, turned around and went back to SB.
The answer (for me) whenever it was so big and consistent that getting outside was nearly impossible...was to go out bodysurfing. T's is actually a pretty phenomenal wave for it, too. And it holds size.
@@stijnzweegers it is a numerical meme count the number of the letters, divide by the number of letters, and subtract until a single digit is reached , it will be 8, placed on it side is the symbol for infinity.
Surfed there in the 80’s while I was stationed at Vandenburg AFB, caught some epic sessions there just wish water wasn’t so cold! First time ever surfing outside of Hawaii 🤙🏽
College friend surf lived there ,met him in San Diego, 77. 82. 1st time I surf was north co sd. Beacons ,water was cold! San Diego and baja was full wetsuit, fricken cold . Mitch live in Kauai and is 1 life guard, I'm back home ,westside Oahu.
@@Tyler-sv4swYep, I'm 70 and surfed the Bu from '64-'75. Saw Dora, Lance etc. Started surfing Jalama in 1968 on Fourth of July weedend. Just as the short boards (single fin, no leg ropes) were hitting the market. Me and me 3 mates were the only surfers there. Just fishermen down at the campground. Few surfers knew about the place in those days. Then I moved to Santa Cruz and later to Half Moon Bay. Now I live in Taranaki, New Zealand. Surfers call it "Taradise". Take a look on a map and you can probably figure out why.
