Join my site - Angela Kane Membership gives you everything! Sewing Patterns, Fashion Design Resources, Sewing and Design eBooks and Sew Alongs. Shop for individual Sewing Patterns. Sewing for Beginners, Easy Sewing Patterns - Learn How to Sew and Make Your Own Clothes. Sew Alongs for most of my sewing patterns. Download Easy Sewing Patterns - FREE PATTERNS - Just Register.
I studied Pattern Cutting and Fashion Design at Croydon College of Art during the 1970s. I had been making my own clothes and knitting since my early teens. I have designed for exclusive boutiques and private clients. I launched my own online boutique in 1995, one of the very first web based fashion businesses!
Are any adaptations required to make these jeans for women. The selvedge jeans pattern looks like it's intended for men. If making for a woman, is it waist or hips that determines the size. And I presume that these fall below the natural waist. Thank you!
Hi, I wear these jeans with no adaptation. They are an easy fit rather than my other jeans pattern - 948 - which is more of a skinny fit and is aimed specifically for women. Having said that, I know I have plenty of guys making up the skinny fit ones. I suggest you go by the equivalent women's sizing as follows - the men’s chart starts at 26” which is equivalent to the women’s UK size 6. So each size is roughly equivalent up to the 42” which is equivalent to women’s UK size 22. The mens’s jeans go one step further to 44” which would be equivalent to a women’s size 24. Measuring the actual jeans pattern, there is about 1” ease on the waistband (the waistband sits about 2" below natural waist) and just a little over 1” ease at the hip on all sizes. I hope that helps. I am planning to add actual pattern measurement to my patterns in the future as this is often requested.
I'm thrilled to have found this pattern. I am a 69 year old woman with 35" hips and a 32" waist and these jeans fit me perfectly with no modifications. I made the size 32 which Angela said have a 34" waist and a 37"+ hip size. They are a bit baggy but that's how I like them. I've made 2 pair and plan to make more! If you have a very curvy figure you might have to make modifications. I regularly wear men's jeans. I don't know about UK sizing, but there is no way I could wear a US women's size 12... it would be huge in the hips, butt and legs. I would suggest making a muslin sizing for your hips and see where you end up.
@@AmySomerstein Thank you so much for sharing your experience of making up these jeans. You are not alone in making these selvedge jeans up for yourself and I wear them myself. I've updated my site to mention the fact that they look great on women and also that I have a lot of guys making my slim fit jeans pattern - angelakane.com/sewing-jeans/
Thanks for saving me & my corduroy jacket! I followed your videos to make buttonhole on the button placket which is very bulky because of the interfacing & the corduroy naps, and it works! Thanks for the video!
I tried this today and cut and sewed a mock up. Let me tell u...this is the FIRST TIME IN MY SEWING LIFE that i drafted a blouse pattern and did NOT have to do ANY adjustments after the mock up! It fit me perfectly, the bust point was EXACT!! I AM in AWE!!! Thank you so much for these tutorials. They were extremely easy to follow and easy to draft. I consider myself a beginner and the mock up fit me, and i did not add any extra seam allowance to the pattern. I will finally be able to use this pattern to drafts bras and corsets! - from Trinidad and Tobago🇹🇹
Hi Giselle, thank you so much for your generous praise. I'm very glad you found it easy - I worked very hard on this series to make it useful. Your comment is much appreciated.
I’ve been a member of Angela Kane for several years and find many of her methods for construction better than most I’ve learned from. Her zip application is by far the best I’ve ever used. Thank you Angela. 😊
Did you get as far as 7:00, towards the end? this is quite a close up and you can see what the stitch looks like after the second round. Also the follow up video may help using a more modern machine with a wider foot - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-H-CdXPjvlXY.html. At around 8:36 I show what the finished seam looks like. I hope that helps.
So pleased you're having success with it. As I said below, even if it's not absolutely perfect it still looks authentic for jeans. Much more so than any of the automatic buttonholes.
This is brilliant! I have an automatic buttonhole maker on my Pfaff; however, it often plays up on thick fabrics that are folded several times, like bands or lapels on jeans or coats. And once it spoilt the buttonhole it is very hard to unpick. This should work much more reliably!
I agree. Buttonholes can be daunting. You put all your effort into a perfect garment and then you have the worst job of all to do! I always practice several times and start with the lowest buttonhole which may not be noticed if it's not absolutely perfect. I'm glad you like this method. Even if it's not perfect, it still looks authentic for jeans.
There are several threads that are thicker than standard thread and they all behave a little differently. I have a short guide ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-p20c3aYFr6g.html. With this heavy duty denim I found the extra strong thread worked well for the buttonholes and gives more strength. Here is the Gutermann site consumer.guetermann.com/en/product-type/sewing-thread/.
Thanks so much. I sympathise. All I can suggest is keep your eyes glued to the edge of the foot and keep it aligned to the raw edge. Or use a seam guide on your foot. I used to think they were for beginners but I use one often these days.
I love your method! Thank you. I also have a Bernina, but the stitch length isn't in mm's, it's the 1 through 5 on both the length and the width. Would you be so kind as to translate your stitch lengths and width to the Bernina numbering system. Thank you.
I checked my manual for this video and the 1-5 does represent the mm on both the length and width of the stitch. I'm not absolutely sure if this applies to other makes of sewing machines though. I have an embroidery model which is at least 20 years old and can do a 9mm zigzag. In fact I hadn't noticed before but when I have a 'coded foot' in place, that's one that lets the machine know to do the 9mm width, the screen width changes from 1-5 to 1-9. How old is your Bernina? I'm glad you like this video. It is the result of a lot of frustration with automatic buttonholes, even on a Bernina!
Don't know if you remember me... an American who stopped by your studio on a wet, cold afternoon about 10 years ago. I get so much out of your excellent tutorials. You are a really good teacher!! Thanks for all you do.
Hi Jenny, Yes I do remember. Early days - there is now a lot more competition. I was one of the first! I've moved out to beautiful Kent but still working hard. Thank you so much for your comment.
Very clear & enjoyable as usual, thank you. I've been sewing for many, many years & have always avoided making jeans, as I somehow imagined them to be much more complex, but you've allayed that fear for me. Thank you once again.
Thank you so much. I think the fly zip puts most people off so I put a lot of effort into creating an easy technique. I haven't seen anyone else doing it my way. Also denim isn't easy to work with, especially the heavy weights. Using the stitch compensating tool makes a big difference.
Brilliant tutorial have been sewing 60 years but never seen the Stitch Compensation tool before and often struggled making coats etc thank you so much x
Thank you. I'm glad you like it. Yes, the stitch compensation tool makes all the difference. You can also use a folded piece of fabric but I find this one works really well. You have have three thickness immediately to hand. This one is from Bernina and it was included with sewing machine - berninaukshop.co.uk/3-series-activa-virtuosa/137-spacer.html
Thanks Kevin. Yes, I was one of those who would sew over pins, break the odd needle every now and again, nothing worse. Then a doctor from the US contacted me to say how many injuries result from young girls watching a certain American sewing show. I now have a warnings page - angelakane.com/sewing-over-pins.php - and I always recommend basting before machining. I'm a slow dressmaker type sewer. I can't just wiz through seams like a factory worker would. I like to secure them first. Basting is always a good idea and you can try things on before machining. Thank you so much for your feedback.
@@kevinsews Really! This was years ago. I did take it seriously and did a little bit of research. Many sewers sew over pins and I have to say I miss being able to do it but once it was brought to my attention, I decided it wasn't worth the risk. I also didn't want to put my followers at risk either. Thank you for your wise advice.
I often find, even on my Bernina, automatic buttonholes are unreliable on difficult fabrics such as this heavy denim. Also, they never look like authentic buttonholes. Glad you like this method. Thanks so much for commenting.
Beautiful work however the inside of the leg seam should be flat felled so the wearer will have a smooth seam allowance--the wonderful part of blue jeans is the inside flat felled seam allowance. The flat felled seam allowance prevents the inner thigh skin from being rubbed raw during hot sweaty work duties.
Thank you for raising this point. In fact I do address this in the 'slow' version, coming soon. I mention that ideally the inside seam should be a felled seam but that it would be rather a challenge with this heavy denim on a domestic sewing machine. I have noticed that most commercially made fashion jeans don't use a felled seam. I am though inclined to agree with you that a felled seam would be nicer. I should have mentioned this point in this particular video. Thanks so much for your feedback and your praise. It's very encouraging.
Speaking of: could you do a tutorial, how to do a flat felled seam? How to adjust seam allowance (if necessary) etc? But I guess, you have to change order, like first the inner leg seams and then the zip fly... but a mere tutorial how to do a flat felled would be great! I do have a semi industrial machine, however. Thanks for your videos!
@@dobiline Hi, A felled seam isn't difficult and you are right, a slightly wider seam of maybe ¾", just under 2cm might help with heavy duty denim. I would try it first though on your fabric. I've just done a quick test and ⅝", 1.5cm is working for me. So it's wrong sides together. Press the seam to one side. Trim the underneath seam to ⅛", 0.25cm. Press in a folded edge and top-stitch. You can also use a felling foot for this stage. To be honest, now that you and @evalucilledixon3879 have highlighted this, when I make another pair, I will use the felled seam. It is much neater for the inside leg cuff as well. You've obviously thought it through and I think I would still do the fly zip first and leave the crotch seam. Then do the felled inside leg seams and then the whole of the crotch seam. Thank you so much for your feedback, it's been useful for me. A tutorial would be a good idea. I'm glad you like the video.
Incredible. I have sewn at least 5 pairs of jeans in my life, using photo instructions and books. It turned out successful but took a long time going through needlessly confusing pictures of fly zip assembly and other elements, but this is just so clear and to the point. Thank you so much for sharing your experience with us!
Thank you so much for commenting. I have wanted to get around to this tutorial for ages. It was a challenge to film every step but I'm glad you have found it useful. I agree, I think especially my fly zip method will help a lot of jeans sewers.
Amazing tutorial! You make everything look so easy. Can I use this pattern to make office trousers ( if yes what fabric would you suggest ?) or do you have any specific "business" style trousers pattern?❤❤❤
I think a jeans pattern is adaptable way beyond denim. Try it in linen for the summer and equally it would work well in a wool suit weight. You could also try the Pleat Front Trousers - angelakane.com/sewing_patterns/patterns/trousers-sewing-pattern-931.php and angelakane.com/sewing_patterns/patterns/trousers-sewing-pattern-921.php. These two patterns will be updated to be fully featured soon. Thank you so much for your encouragement. It's appreciated.
Great pattern and instructions.I used to make my partner's jeans using this pattern as he had the longest legs ever and could never find jeans in his size. Thank you Angela.
Thank you Barbara, I have make a few improvements to this pattern and it has all the features of my latest patterns. If ever you need a new copy, just let me know and I'll update your account with renewed access.
I greatly appreciate this comment. Aquiring this particular denim is a bit of a story which I will come to soon. All the guys who have seen this garment love it! Thank you so much for joining - I'm publishing more new patterns very soon.
Yes, that will do quite well for stretch fabrics. You may do better to use my simple fitted t-shirt 500 design - angelakane.com/sewing_patterns/patterns/t-shirt-sewing-patterns-500-501-502-1501-1502.php. That would work really well as a block for jersey designs.
