I'm Matt a car enthusiast that enjoys repairing and installing performance parts on cars. Whether it's adding some horsepower, racing or just fixing a broken car, you will find it here. Thanks for visiting.
Congrats on the startup. Following the long and winding road to success. Enjoyed seeing not only the successes but also the failures, provided a lot of insight on sequencing steps and procedures to resolve each problem. The series was very comprehensive and a great documentation tool. Looking forward to your next series.
Great video. I eliminated my steering slop (had alot) by replacing the steering shaft( rag joint was fine but had play in one of the ujoints. That was detected by removing the shaft. Very hard to see that play in the u joint when on the car. Then I used MM Aluminum rack bushing! No slop at all now. I found that the rubber and poly bushings were to soft. Matt definitely try the mm aluminum rack bushings!!!!
Great detail but 2 and a half hours to patch that seems like an extreme amount of time even if you've never done it and you were filming... I change them without a duck bill in about 10- 15 mins per tire and just moving steady. If putting a patch on, maybe add a few minutes for vulcanizing cement to dry...
I’ve been a mechanic for 55 years and I just wanted to know why didn’t you just plug it? It would’ve been a lot easier to plug it while the tire was on the vehicle plugs or a lot more practical than patching tire I’ve known people to patch a tire and a few weeks later have to plug it, because the patch fell off inside
The 17:05 mark, the cut in the video where all of the cussing happens while trying to seal the bead and keep the air in. :) I enjoyed this video, Cheers!
hey man, you might make some extra money by doing some affiliation with amazon and providing amazon affiliate links for all the tools in your description. After watching your video, I want to know where I can buy the patch, the vulcanizing cement. As a first time video watcher, if you had the amazon affiliate links for that stuff, I know I would have purchased them without thinking about it if they were posted in your video description
I work in a tire shop for years. Leave the nail in until you actually do the repair. I can repair a tire in 10 minutes. What you're doing is simply stupid. I'm not sure how to put it better.
You are a clown to repair such an expensive car with such crap! If you had money for a monkey, don't skimp on bananas! It is unnecessary to take it apart for this type of tire repair, if you don't use a normal "mushroom" (a rubber disk with a protruding stem in the middle that goes into the hole) for the repair, then it is really better to insert a plug (in our case "worm") from the outside. In this form, balancing is also missing, which is one of the worst things you can do with a wheel.
I was wondering why you didn’t just use a wheel plug instead of breaking the tire completely down to fix it, unless you wanted to demonstrate how your harbor freight wheel changer worked?😊
A hydraulic lift and a manual tire changer. Skimp here to go all out there. Nice! I dont have any of those. Hahaha! But I'd love to have both... Nice job!
A year later, how did the patch hold up? Of course I noticed those tires were almost ready to need replacing so maybe never made it another year just based on tread.
The coating does tare after a number of uses, but mine is still on the tools and is still providing protection. You will eventually need to re-coat though.
Great information. First time I broke the black pivot bolt. You’re absolutely right about the tool pushing against itself. I will be modifying mine as well.
I paid 1700 for a 2008 5spd GT last summer with rod knock. 121k on the odometer and in great cosmetic shape for a New England car. Just dropped in an EJ20X, as this will be my daily.
I was like...watching saying "omg, he's just gonna go in dry like that?!?!" and then i saw 37 other people commenting on the lack of lube. This is impressive that it works so well though.
I believe the concern was that power for the trailer brake may exceed fused circuits that feed other applications, so by going strait to the battery, we don't have to worry about blowing fuses or causing issues with other electronics and circuits.
@@mattsautomotivechannel Thank you, very helpful! Possible you did a update of any details or changes you made, anything you learned about EV specific towing, even just feedback for how it worked VS your expectations? Thank you for documenting the process so well, seen several threads referencing your video.
Most of my towing experience since the video has been with a utility trailer without a trailer brake, so I can't say much about the brake system. However, the car tows perfectly without any issues and the torque that the electric motors produce make it feel like your not even towing, the only down side, is that my power consumption went up 40% while towing, and if you need to stop at a Supercharger where its necessary to back in, you will need to disconnect the trailer first, and that is the biggest bummer. Hopefully Tesla will provide more drive through stations in the future, seems that it will be a necessity with things like the Cybertruck, as these vehicles will much more likely be towing. These are interesting times.
@@mattsautomotivechannel Absolutely, thank you. That is absolutely what I am hoping, make pull through charging more standardized. To me it makes no sense to limit position you have to be in when charging, make them just as accessible as any fuel station IMO. If they limit charging flexibility intrinsically, it makes accessibility far more difficult.
