I'm Matt a car enthusiast that enjoys repairing and installing performance parts on cars. Whether it's adding some horsepower, racing or just fixing a broken car, you will find it here. Thanks for visiting.
I realize this was a year ago but if you're going to do this kind of work you'll want to invest in 8oz-36oz *soft face* dead-blow hammers, that piston would have been out in a couple of smacks, using wood was the right idea. Grab a real breaker bar 24" or larger. That little 14" one has been painful to watch. It's also a good idea to get some sleeves for the connecting rods for removing/installing them through the cylinders, it's easy to leave a deep groove that could potentially ruin the block. Looking forward to finishing the series on this 4.6L as there's barely any in-depth videos on them let alone a 96-98 Cobra. I'm sure you've long figured out that is the original engine to that car.
I definitely agree with your comment about not really doing this to save money but that us D.I.Y.er's like to do our own maintenance and enjoy working with our hands. Thanks for the video.
Hey Matt, I have been desperate to find a clunking noise in my rear end. I upgraded the rear on my 13 GT500 to Eaton Detroit truetrack and moser axles 31 spline. If I’m driving under 80mph and go over something like a reflector it clunks in the rear, and if I pull on the wheels while it’s sitting it clunks. Not sure where the issue is at. My mechanic that installed it said the shims, c clamp and the spring tensioner for the axles are all within measurement. Any idea what it could be? Brakes are on tight.
When I bought the car, the valve springs had been subjected moisture causing them to rust. I cleaned up the springs removing the rust, however I believe by doing so the springs were compromised, I should have replaced the springs with new ones.
The cam journals do not have replaceable bearing, so if material is removed, the clearances becomes too large. Unlike the crankshaft where you can get oversized bearing the fill in the extra space.
Watching your whole series loving it so far. I did think it was odd at this point that you didnt measure the camshaft bearing clearances. I want to build a gt engine but there doesn’t seem to be a lot of info on the camshaft bearings, with them being integrated into the head itself
Hi, my mechanic installed the dynavin 9 on my Mustang 2014, everything works perfectly but the interior lamps are flushing always, if I free the button it stays on but I cant't switch them off. Do you please have an idea about this issue?
A powerbleeder may work in some circumstances, however I can't say with any certainty that it will always work for all cars. It will likely depend on the angle in which the cylinder is mounted and again the ability to fully depress the piston in the cylinder I feel is very important to purge all air, which may not be possible with all in-car setups. The bench bleeding just takes all the uncertainty out of the equation.
Safety Seal plugs are the best for our family garage, we've been using them since the early 80's and never had any problems, no way would we take a tire off if it could be fixed with a simple plug.
Hello. What are the size of the drop in anchors and the size of the bolts you used? Im going to securely bolt the tire changer on concrete floor in garage. Thank you
when comparing the reluctor wheels, you have to hold them with the teeth pointing to the same direction to see if the gap is correct. Not teeth to teeth.
You're absolutely right, I did noticed notice that later and forgot to edit that out. I did later make that same comparison with the teeth in the same direction and did confirm that the missing tooth is in a different position. Great catch and thanks for pointing that out.
Great video! So if you weren't replacing the engine mounts, you would not have needed to raise the motor at all to get the oil pan out (removing the steering rack was all that's needed)? Thanks!
