Hi I'm Charles, I leave a lot of projects half finished and buy rental houses. Follow along to see me learn how to finish something and grow my rental count!
Bro you can buy a Govee Bluetooth thermometer for like $15 bucks and it’ll link to a Govee Home phone app and give you a live temp read plus historical data too. Think it also measures humidity. Just bought one myself and it seems to work well. Just link the thermometer to your phone and then throw the thermometer in the attic. 👍
The beginning of your video, you doing the sprinkler, etc. I bet your wife would of thought that was ridiculously stupid. And its those kinda shenanigans that hooked her in the first place. Classic!
Yea the loss of audio was my fault for not reading the warning my editing software gave me before closing! The blow in helped a lot and really wasn't that hard to do. But VERY messy on both ends. Wear a good mask and have your helper do the same! Thanks for the view and the comment!
What do you suggest instead of music or silence? I didn't get a chance to rewatch this with the music after my first upload failed so I admit the second one wasn't the best haha. But suggestions? I think if people preferred silence over music then they'd mute it.
@@RealEstateRehab Keep the music - you're the video producer; it's your content and ultimately your choice. If you find the soundtrack matches your taste, so be it. I personally enjoyed it. Also, good work on grounding the fan, haha! I'm dealing with a 74 year old house right now. No ground wires anywhere, and some of the circuits are mixed amongst various room light fixtures and outlets. It's a mess!
@@VFRExplorer I appreciate the feedback! I've been trying different things as I learn (I've never been an editor or producer or anything at all, I just like to work with my hands). These older houses are tough for sure! Someone had this house rewired so luckily it all has ground wire throughout it. I just installed a new ground loop after digging the old one up during the foundation drain project so I'm protected again. The mixed circuits kill me though like you're saying. One breaker for like 4 rooms and the dishwasher is definitely not right. Hopefully you can get that straitened out one circuit at a time though! I wish you luck and thank you again for the feedback!
That bathroom did have an outlet once upon time, it was on the light fixture. Or it's now an illegel junction box in the wall behind sheetrock. Perhaps for the washer on the other side of the house. You need insulation in the attic big time that attic fan is too small of CFM. ACs dont create cold air it moves heat through gas and you have a lot of heat inside that building to move out.
Correct! I looked all over the light fixture for an outlet and was shocked it didn't have one. It also meant none of the outlets downstream from the bathroom were protected by a GFCI but they are now (the kitchen outlets). Insulation is next on the list! Hopefully this week. All I did was read the box for the fan and believe the sales pitch! I guess I was suckered haha. And yep. AC displaces heat, it doesn't create coolness. Also why in extreme cold, a heat pump can't heat a home without auxiliary heating elements because there's no heat to bring from the outside in to the inside. Taking me back to engineering school now! Haha
@@RealEstateRehab Old school bathroom light fixture has the two prong outlet built in the fixture. Looks like yours is newish. You prob can find old razor blades in the wall cavity behind the sink if the bathroom wasn't remodeled in the past. And they do have heat pumps that work in extreme cold you are in a zone that doesn't require em? So they won't sell it in your parts. Don't know what part of the orb you reside. In Artictca they are heat pumps in the test phases and are kinda working pretty skookun.
@ptso7580 very interesting! I had to install heat coils to get through the colder days of winter but I'm in South Carolina so those are few and far between. The second bathroom in the house still has the old light fixture with the outlet in it so that one hasn't been touched! Not sure I want to go poking around looking for old razor blades though.... haha
It's hard for me to gauge the difference it made because the insulation is so poor as well. The ceiling during the day is upwards of 80 degrees when the ambient temperature is 73 (using a thermal camera). So I really think I need to improve that and see all these things work together. The air coming out of the vents is in the 50s though even at the furthest point from the air handler. So I consider that a win! Cool air is getting in, but it's not STAYING in.
You might get a lot more performance out of your fan install if you block the vent area around the fan so the fan draws in hot attic air rather than the air closest to it coming from the outside through the vent then back out through the fan. You could just block the screen area around the fan with cardboard temporarily to test and see how big of a difference that can make. Often the screen block pieces come with attic fans. Just a thought
Yea I didn't end up grinding off the old tar since it was still in good condition. It didn't appear to leak any with a good amount of standing water so the the biggest issues were only during heavy rains when I think it would leak further up the wall!
Would you mind sharing what products you are using? I'm a project manager and estimator for a commercial waterproofing company. I handle new construction. I'm interested in restoration.
Hey Jim, thanks for the comment! Let me see if I can list them all here for you. White Sealer (Home Depot): Original 5 gal. White Flat Latex Interior/Exterior Basement and Masonry Waterproofer ***I'm not sold on this stuff compared to the tar sealer that I'll list below. I wish I could have sprayed this on but my smaller Graco sprayer couldn't handle it. I used this because it was sold in store and easier to get more if needed*** Tar Sealer (Lowes): APOC 139 0.9-Gallon Waterproof Roof Sealant ***This looks to be what was on there originally but it doesn't go a long way so I used it for the bottom row where the bottom block met the foundation. I couldn't get a roller down there that well with the first sealer so I doubled up with this.*** Plastic (In next video - Amazon): Farm Plastic Supply - White Plastic Sheeting - 10 mil - (10' x 100') - Thick Plastic Sheeting, Heavy Duty Polyethylene Film, Drop Cloth Vapor Barrier Covering for Crawl Space Filter paper (In next video - Amazon): Happybuy 6.5FTx300FT Premium Weed Barrier Landscape Fabric Heavy Duty, 3OZ Woven Geotextile Fabric, High Permeability Good for Weed Blocker Gardening Mat, Driveway Fabric, Garden Weed Control Cloth Rock (In next video - Local yard): 57 stone
Did you try to channel the water away from your house while it was still above the ground? Looks like a lot of your water came from your roof thru the downspouts at 13:25. Why do you want the water to have an easy path down at the base of the structure? Any above ground water should kept above the ground and sent away from the house. It looks like you're building a french drain. French drains at the foundation are used to collect ground water, areas with a high water table. I think your rocks and pipes should be about 4' out from the foundation, not against it. My first step would've been to get the roof water out away from the house to a place where it can't come back. From your description of the problem and what I saw at the end of the video, there's a 99% chance that would've solved your basement flooding.
Hey Joe! Thank you for the detailed comment and questions. Let me try to see if I can answer and explain everything thorough enough over text. The downspouts on the front of the house all went into an underground drainage pipe that channeled the water to the end of the house, around the corner, and down the hill that the house is built into. The pipe ran a good 20 feet past the back of the house and into the creek behind the house. I dug this entire drain system up to get down to the original foundation drain of the house and I plan on putting the same system back in place when I put the dirt back to divert the above ground water around the house and never get it a chance to get down to the foundation drain. I've read a bunch of different write-ups where some of them supported spacing the foundation drain away from the house and others that said it should be right next to the footer. I went with this route to minimize the amount of dirt I had to move because I needed to re-seal the entire foundation wall below grade so I had to dig down next to the house regardless. If I had put the drain another 4 feet away from the foundation, then I would have had to dig A TON more dirt and was not really wanting to do that. And I agree with your step one! After I confirmed that the gutters were all flowing around the house and a good distance from the back of the house (down another hill), I determined it was time to just dig around the foundation and install a new foundation drain. The existing foundation drain sat ON TOP OF the footer which I do not agree with, so I'm replacing it all together with a new foundation drain that sits just below the top of the footer so it becomes the lowest point in the system (which is where the water will go). Hopefully this answers your questions! Again, I'm no expert at this and not claiming to be one. I'm just an engineer that someone let drive some earth moving equipment after I received my google degree! (bad jokes... sorry)
I just used a sump pump to pump the water out. End game is to have the outlet of the foundation drain head downhill (I'll just slope it underground) after it goes past the rear of the house and water will no longer sit here like it is in these videos.
Are you planning to pour new concrete for the driveway that was cut out or are you going to try to reuse the removed sections? The spinning of the drone footage was making me a little dizzy, too 😵💫
Yea... Definitely didn't think about the dizziness until after I watched it and realized speeding up drone footage like that is not a good idea haha. Lesson learned! Original plan was to reuse the driveway pieces. New plan is to possibly use crush and run instead until I can get a whole new driveway. But the plan is still up in the air! The driveway pieces were a little heavy for the tractor so I'm not sure how easy they'll set back in place
hope the wedding was a big hit, Digging out and waterproofing a70+ year old foundation is a cracker of a honeymoon!!! lol please give your new wife a big high five from an old contractor ha ha ha! she is one heck of a gal LMAO lol seems these days there is no time to stop and smell the roses remember balance is important & burnout is real good health can be fleeting. P.S. That is a big job best of luck with it
The wedding was great! Tons of fun. She is definitely patient with all the jobs but you can see her in this video when she saw it for the first time and realized the size of the project haha. It's definitely a bigger job then I thought it was in my head but we'll get through it and protect the house from flooding anymore!
We did have some rain but it held off for the ceremony and dinner and all! By that point, no one minded dancing in the rain. Hoping to post some footage soon!
my dads secret to a lush lawn was 1 bag of grass seed for the lawn and a half bag for the birds, worked like a charm every year he had the thickest lushest lawn on the street lol PS if the bar top is pressure treated lumber don't prepare food on it ! the yard is looking good
Haha yea I'm learning how to do better with the yard! It was awful a year ago... the bar top is pressure treated coated with food grade epoxy. But regardless, it's more for just sitting at and not a prep surface for anything!
Yes, 100% would have been appropriate since what I used was not ground rated. I don't plan on this being here for very long (maybe a year) so I cut some corners. It was what I had laying around though!
It took 3 yards! I just dug it out too so probably took a little more then usual. But that spot used to be just filled with trash from when I bought the house so big improvement!
here is a tip when cutting the dados make a small feather board and clamp it to the fence it will keep the board down tight to the deck and prevent kickback am sure there are videos on RU-vid on how to make one if you don't know just need a bandsaw or jigsaw going hand over hand will give you inconsistent depth of cut and am not sure if you dealt with the gap around the edge a decorative molding would take care of it if you cant buy one make one with a router
Yea the wood was so warped it was definitely inconsistent. I actually have a feather tool for the table saw but have never set it up. I believe I would have done a lot of things differently had I not been crunched for time but that's no excuse and I have learned for next time!
ya guys that lay brick are hard workers i worked with a guy on my brothers house in the UK years ago he was the bricklayers "gopher" this guy mixed all the cement & ran 5 gal buckets of mud and brick hods with 12 bricks in them up and down the scaffolding all day long supplying 3 bricklayers i was a contractor for 40+ years i got worn out just watching this kid hustle PS you need to get a pointing tool to tool the joints with if you do it again
I have MAD respect for anyone in the trade! Whether you're laying them or running them, I completely understand the labor involved now (on the small scale). I actually had a pointing tool but my joints were so bad it didn't deserve it haha. Just kidding! I was using a pointing trowel and was rushing because I was freaking out and had no idea what I was doing haha.
am not sure what area you live in but would it not have been a good idea to put a couple of inches of gravel and compact to allow water to drain away not & freeze then pour the concrete on top of it
Yea I'm in South Carolina with no frost line so that wouldn't be too much of an issue here. I assume you'd have to do something like that further up north though!
@@RealEstateRehab ya the gravel also helps to make a more stable base and resists washing out better than plain old dirt am sure they are not going anywhere for many years the gates turned really nice the whole project looks great if i could suggest one thing on your videos turn the volume on the music down a little on my end its rather loud otherwise the videos are pretty good best of luck with the channel
Unfortunately my tractor just doesn't have enough weight and power to pull some posts straight up! It got most of them but the two with massive concrete anchors wouldn't budge with just the tractor
Yea after I laid all the crush and run down, I looked over to the side and saw the landscape fabric I bought to lay down... completely forgot to put it down! I 100% agree with you though!
Hey! I'm pulling it with a 2022 Colorado ZR2 Duramax. My trucks rated towing is #5000 because of the suspension and max weight for the camper is #5500 loaded and #3500 empty. I'm also using a Husky weight distribution hitch with sway control which the dealer suggested for me.
I have a 2022 colorado, 2wd, 7000 lbs towing capacity, is a sway hitch really needed?, and can you see down the sides ok with your mirrors?, I don't know how wide your camper is
