Videos depicting some of the antique phonographs in my collection as well as machines that I am selling or working on at any given time. These will be phonographs/Gramophones from the time period 1900-1958, mechanical machines only, I don't get involved with electric powered machines. Springs and acoustic sound, no electrical amplification in these type machines.
I have one that has spent its entire life in the same county. It was originally sold at the Wood Brothers’ shop in Pittsfield, MA. The shop is still going, last I heard.
@@justindgarner1347 it would appear they are still an operation, at least they are advertising. Impressive in a day and age and so few people learn how to operate actual musical instruments. If you decide to sell that machine, you should contact Wood Brothers they might want it back to display in their store. There cannot be many original Victor dealers that are still going almost 100 years after the company shut down. Wood Brothers was at least diversified, and not totally dependent on Victor products and I’m sure that’s the only reason why they are still in operation today
@@Tojazzer editing? What’s that? That sounds like fancy video stuff that I don’t know how to do. I can turn the camera on and point it at the subject and record and then turn the camera off and that’s pretty much the extent of my video knowledge. Yeah I changed the needle, it’s just off camera that’s all.
@@tom-m9q8r I am in New York State, so it would be a bit of a commute for me to pick that up. If you plan to be in the vicinity and would like me to look at the machine for you, just let me know, it likely has a broken spring just like the one I had.
@@jimmyj8936 this Victor II as well as the other two Victor II’s I have had my hands on all had 10 inch turntables. They were all between 1905 and 1906 production.
@@johnmarshall9945 I would sell Victor parts if somebody needed it and I happen to have it. Likely I do have the hold down screw for the first model of the 50 as I did have several parts machines and I don’t recall ever actually using that particular part as a replacement. You can contact me at. Rockisland1903victrola@gmail.com
excellent and thank you. Just picked up a vv-xi in phenomenal condition from a flea market. paper organizers in the bottom cabinet in great condition. what a find.
@@xXBURITOOXx maybe you do live down the road from me. It’s not like I have a sign out front saying Victrolas fixed here. 60 miles north of New York City.
@@johnmarshall9945 this is from a while back, I’m glad the information was useful. I have worked on a lot of of these little Victrola 4’s over the years. They were a very popular machine for Victor for a long time.
@@johnmarshall9945 I buy felt in all different colors from the craft store people in 12“ x 12“ squares. These are big enough to do Any turntable. I glued them on and then trim them after. Not sure where to get pool table filter around here although it is probably the same thing and I would end up having to cut it into 12” x 12” squares anyway.
@@johnmarshall9945 turns out the jungle website has lots of pool table felt in various colors. You have to buy a whole roll of it and that gets kind of expensive for the little bit that I use. I found the stuff the crafters use to be the same weight as what Victor was using 100 years ago. Or at least it seems to match, the old ones that I take off. I will keep it in mind however if I need felt for a larger project like lining the drawers in my Gerstner wooden tool, chests, and hobby boxes.
HELP!!! Have a 106. Inside mint. Case outside some wear. Problem. Speed control. Can't get steady speed. Govenor spins so fast it expands and hits the metal and makes a very loud rattle. Tried to make some adjustments. Can't seem to get it right. Speeds up slows down. Main seems good. Mech. Is clean and oiled. Can the governor wear out over time and just expand to far, or am I missing some adjustments. Sounds excellent. I think reproducer was rebuilt. Has auto on/off. Wood base excellent etc. Has record tray. If I can only adjust speed I'd be in business. Any help would be really appreciated....
@@waynel879 it could be that the felt on the governor arm is worn down too far but more likely you have to adjust the speed control lever. Remove the turntable you will see that the lever attaches with two small screws to the motor board. The screw holes are slotted to allow you to move them backwards and forwards and this is how you adjust the speed, One Direction is faster. The other direction is slower. start with this adjustment first, if this does not do it then you will have to examine the friction pad a little closer. If you have to you can box it up and send it to me and we will get that sorted out. If there is an issue with the governor weights in Springs, you can substitute the Victor Governor Springs and weights onto that brass body. These springs and weights are available brand new from parts suppliers here in the states because this is a frequently broken item. Remember, it’s the arm with the friction pad on it that stops the governor from going too far. It’s not the governor itself is causing this problem. It’s that arm and the friction pad on it. You have to adjust it one way or the other so that it is holding the governor back a little bit more than it is now.
Also the governor is unusual. It's not connected at both ends. There are attached at one point then open outwards as they spin from centrifugal force. Most machines the weights are connected at both ends and move outwards as they spin. Could the metal just be fatigued from years of use, like to soft not enough tension, or is that not usual...
Thanks for the video. I've had all sorts of problems with that can clip. You noted that you had some tricks. Do you talk about the tricks in any of your videos?
@@waltergist8923 the most common thing I see that people have done in the past was to shave a little bit or clip a little bit off the end of the spring clip. Just about a 16th of an inch maybe. Every now and then I do find some that are as issued from the factory. Some of these are tougher than others but what I do is work them in as much as I can into the groove and then slam the edge of the barrel down on that wooden tabletop I work on. The wood is soft enough so no damage is done to the barrel, but hard enough that often it can pop the clip in. It can take a while to get it done, and you have to work slow and patiently. It is my suspicion that they use some kind of hydraulic ram to attach that clip at the factory and probably just slightly bend over the edges of the barrel to hold the clip in better.
@@Rockisland1903 Thanks for the advice. I need to do the four spring motor on my Credenza so I may get to try this. I worked on the is machine many years ago and I got it done but it was not fun. I'm beginning to worry that at my age, 78. I may not have the hand strength left to get through a four spring motor so I may have to throw in the towel and look and send the two cans out for a shop to service or replace the spring. Again,thanks for your help.
@@waltergist8923 I don’t recall, but I probably do. Much of it comes from a lifetime spent rebuilding things a lot more complex than a gramophone motor.
Don't ever ever ever shorten those spring clips, people who do it really wind me up (pun)! It's not the spring tension that does the holding but the pressure from the ends being butted up together. I've seen them when they've been shortened and the hydraulic pressure of the grease when the spring is wound and unwound will force the end plate out of the barrel and it'll be rattling around with grease all over the place inside the cabinet! If it was the right size to be in there in the first place then it's the right size/length to go back in. If you cant get it back in without shortening it then there's something very wrong, probably you've bent the barrel out of shape. If you've shortened one and it doesn't eventually pop out again then you've just been very lucky! I always manage to get them back in without 'modification'...as they say, if at first you don't succeed, try try and try again!
@@philthehmk8752 I would say I find them shortened about 70% of the time, and it’s not a sin just Victrola doctors did as I find it on HMV also. Most of the stuff I work on hasn’t been touched in a couple of lifetimes. It must’ve been a common thing among repair guys back in the day. I hate finding things like that because at this point there’s nothing I could do to put it back to right unless I happen to have a parts motor with an intact barrel clip on it.
@@daviebaggins between these two motors, you are likely looking at at least 80% of the motors used by Victor in their machines. Only the premium models had three or four springs, and only the smallest ones had a single spring or the portables. The majority of Victor production, the bread and butter of the company, would have been the Victrola eight, the Victrola, nine, or the Victrola 11. all of these machines had the two spring motor that did go through a variety of changes between 1911 and 1926 when the victrola nine rolled off the assembly line. There would be some minor changes to this motor During the last few years of the company when they were making the orthophonic machines.
Great video. I'm getting back into the hobby because I stumbled into a Credenza in good shape that will be a compliment to the Credenza I found and refurbished in the eighties. But the one is an X model with an electric motor (I also found another Victor disc induction electric motor on Ebay that the seller thought was to an electric bell). I've forgotten a lot about working on these things but as you went through the video you kept answering my questions. So valuable. I've subscribed to your channel and I'm going back through your videos a little at a time. I don't know if you have worked on the disc induction motor Victor used. I think a lot of enthusiasts don't care much about the early electric models but that little motor is actually kind of neat. In any case I need to repack the springs in my old Credenza and a couple of other machines I have so your video is great help. By the way, there is a channel by someone that goes by Chilldude who has posted a nice set of videos on the Credenza X models but he hasn't posted for a dozen or so years so I don't think he is active any more. My other passion has been the VV 2-55 portable. I think they are great little machines although repacking the the spring requires punching or drilling out the rivets the attach the can lid. Not that hard but a little tedious. Again Thanks for your work
LB 106 actually means LIGHT BLUE. These portables tend to get green because of dirt and nicotine and it‘s a pain to get them really clean at all. Off course there also were green 106s with green felt and a painted horn The 106 and the Late Electrola 102 (A) used a different type of record tray with a little pin as a extension to the centre line so that the records site more tight. There also was a little piece of felt which you could put on the tray if you were carrying less than 10-12 records. These always get lost. As you asked how long they used the No.4a on the 106: They used the No.4a into the first months of the war 1939 but then used a Goldring type soundbox with aluminium membran as they were cheaper to buy then build at there on factory. I have a red 106 with the instrcutions still attached and dated with April 1941. They probably were sold until we attacked the sowjet union in June 1941. My one is from the very last model range as it has the typical war features like a cheap german Steidinger (Dual) Motor and not the Electrola one. These were fitted into the machines probably only in 1941. Btw The lever on the tonearm for the automatic break is fitted the other way around
@@Musikkoffer thank you for the information, now the blue turntable felt, and the blue paint in the horn opening makes sense. I suspect the greenish color in this case is not the result of dirt or nicotine as even the hidden bits of the cover under the motor board are the same color. Even the parts that are protected by the motor board itself being pressed up against them that would not have been exposed to dirt or nicotine or even sunlight are the same color as the outside. I suspect this has something to do with the aging of the material and whatever dye was used to color it. That would also account for why the color is so even throughout the entire machine. If it was dirt or nicotine, I would expect the color to be lighter in some areas, and darker in others. The record tray I will likely use on the red 102, it’s not correct for that machine either, but it is at least an HMV machine. I am lucky to have any tray at all as they are very hard to find over here. I did see a documentary recently That mentioned the government did not go over to full scale war production for all industries until 1942 so I guess that would be why 1941 was the last year This machine was produced. so far as I know, HMV in the UK continue to produce the 102 and probably other machines throughout the war with certain steps being taken to preserve more material. Things like eliminating the trays, and using pot metal in certain parts like the governor body, and the elimination of all but the black colored Rexine. Maybe one day I will come across one of the later machines so I can do a comparison between pre-war and wartime production.
Again another machine returns to playing as it was meant to be heard! Thanks for your work in making that happen. Nice selection of records too. BTW, I have rewatched the video several times on your lanterns…and it sparked the flame, so to speak. Now I have Embury no 1 Air Pilot, Embury 210 Supreme and Dietz D-Lite. I’ve sat in the garage of an evening playing some shellac with the lantern burning next to the machine.Good times in Gettysburg!
@@paulwilson126 I often light one of the glass oil lamps when I am inside playing one of my big Victrolas at night. Embury made some nice lanterns by the 1950s. Their earlier ones pretty much mirror Dietz. I probably have 50 lanterns, and I have a bunch of oil lamps too, including one with the uranium glass bottom that glows nuclear green when you hit it with a black light. Right now I have about 10 lanterns and lamps on my desk that I’ve been fixing one by one with new wicks and so on. I have a huge royal parlor, lamp, an Aladdin train lamp, and a nickel plated brass Miller lamp.
The name was used for the record label. The company was making electrically recorded records at a time in this technology was still new. So they used the same name for the line of gramophones they were producing. Floor models, table, top models, and the portable models. The record label lived on past the war as part of EMI along with HMV and Columbia among others, but I don’t think they were any machines being made past 1945.
Nice work, it's so clean. I have a VVIX Mahogony. I love it, great design, only, I wish it had auto shutoff. I think mine is from 1913. Don't know how to find out for certain.
@@spencerbergquist781 you can find out the date from the serial number. You can look the serial number up online or send it to me and I’ll look it up for you.
@@Rockisland1903 Hi Rockisland. I don't know where to look online to find the date.. it's a VVIX 60415 and looks like letter "C" at the right. it has piano hinge doors, crescent bezel, and 3 upward speaker slats. I think it's 1913, but if you can look it up, I appreciate very much. Thanks.
@@spencerbergquist781 yes, your machine was made in 1913. The suffix letter is just there to indicate there has been some form of change done to the motor or maybe the horn something like that. 1913 was a year of many changes, but the biggest one was this is the year the Victrola the ninth, got the cast-iron isolated horn inside the cabinet 1911, and 1912 had a wooden baffle horn with the motor suspended in the middle of it. The new horn isolates the horn from the motor so the motor is no longer hanging inside the horn opening.
@@polish-ecuadoriandoge4044 this is a common model that Victor sold in the hundreds of thousands between 1911 and 1920. You can find them on eBay., Or stop in to see me and I will sell you one, I always have at least one spare hanging around of this model.
@@terryharvey6504 for most sound boxes you would be replacing the diaphragm, the diaphragm gasket, the isolator gasket in the back, and sometimes the two small springs on the needle bar. Sometimes you can get away with reusing the springs if they’re in good enough condition, and sometimes you can get away with reusing the diaphragm, but there was a risk that it will be bad after you’ve done all the work. Often times you will have to adjust the needle bar because it’s been dropped onto records hundreds of times or maybe even onto the floor and it’s no longer aligned properly. That is probably the biggest part or at least the part that takes the longest to get right as you must work very carefully not to break it as you gently bend it back into shape. I would say that 85% of the boxes work onrequire some adjustment to the needle bar. Then you tested and hope for the best.
@@Rockisland1903 funny I found 6504 aligned with my name. That is the Victor 12 inch Red Seal catalog number immediately before the historical first commercial electric recording of a symphony orchestra Victor 6505 Dance Macabre with Leopold Stokowski and the Philadelphia Symphony!
@@terryharvey6504 you’re not just adjusting the needle bar springs you were also adjusting the needle bar itself because I find 90% of them are bent to some degree from years of being dropped on records or even dropped on the floor. It’s a little more involved than I can get into here because this is the part of rebuilding a reproducer that can take quite a lot of time. You’re only adjusting the springs by turning the little screws until the foot of needle bar is just barely touching the diaphragm while at the same time the needle will be at 90° aligned with the side of the reproducer. Getting it that way requires some extremely gentle bending of the needle bar until it’s just right. I have had this take hours to do, but then I’m picky and I want perfect. That’s why I started rebuilding my own reproducers in the first place many many years ago.
@@TKELCH I use a heat gun to warm up the isolator gaskets so they will come out. The problem with the pot metal reproducers is the metal itself swells as it internally corrodes locking it very securely in place. A heat gun would help rusty iron, but it can do nothing with stuck pot metal. with the isolator gaskets that have petrified rubber you’d loosen up the rubber and makes it more pliable so that you can get it out without damaging things.
@@spencerbergquist781 Electrola was the name of the record label, it refers to electrically recorded records. They were by this time, part of EMI same as HMV and Columbia. I don’t have a great deal of information on the history of this company except that the 106 amongst other types of gramophones where produced by Electrola so the people who bought their records, had something to play them on that the company can make a profit from. Just like how the Victor company had the Victor record label along with a huge factory, making machines to play them. after the war, only the record label remained as the companies facilities were either bomb damaged, or shipped off to the east
@@wywot great idea, I looked into it on that jungle website and it seems glue sticks common every color of the rainbow, including dark, green and red. I am going to give this a try along with some ideas I’ve been working on for making my own isolator gaskets, but I’m not sure how that one’s going to work out. I also scored a sheet of green leather material that might give me what I need to patch in the missing little bit of rexine on the case. It’ll never be an exact match because age has colored it, but it will be close.
@@xXBURITOOXx I am happy I could be of assistance, being in Sweden you probably have better access than I do to both HMV and electrola as both would have been sold in Sweden before the war.
@@xXBURITOOXx there is no gap. It just sits on there glued down to the metal with a raised edge around the outside of the turntable. That’s just a bump in the metal not anything to hook to. This is how all the HMV’s do it also.
I love this machine and am wondering if I should buy it, but it has the factory knob on the right. I wanted to ask if it is suitable for playing late 40-55 year old records? I have the newer shellac records Decca and columbia
@@theragingbull7059 That motor originated with the Victor company in 1918 as the so-called improved motor. This just meant that they reconfigured the governor and put both main Springs inside one spring barrel. HMV called it the number 32 motor and used it in lots of machines, it even turns up in some oddball portables, like the colonial model 114. The only HMV versions I have are inside HMV machines so obviously I’m not selling those. I do have Victor motors of that type but that would be it if this is something you think you can use just contact me using the email on this account and I will see what I can dig up for you.
@@theragingbull7059 rockisland1903victrola@gmail.com Thumping can mean a dry spring, but if you’ve already cleaned the spring, put in fresh grease and it’s still doing it. There might be a slight dent in either the spring barrel or the barrel cover that is causing the spring to hang up a little bit. It might also mean that one or both of the new springs might be slightly wider than they should be again, causing it to hang up a little bit when it’s unwinding. I have had that happen, more often with the older style of motor with the individual spring barrels, but it could happen with any motor. Not a lot you can do in the case of a wide spring, except to let it wear in. A dry spring you could add more grease a dent in the barrel or its cover you have to take it all apart, clean it out again put it on a straight edge find the dent and tap it out with a wooden or brass dowel pin, and a hammer
@Rockisland1903 cause the thumping is coming from a hmv 102 portable, and is it possible to mix what grease the person who I bought this from with another grease that I have. Its poly graphite grease.
@@deweydodo6691 that is where you secure the winding handle when you are transporting the machine. The large clip on the motor board is where you secure the tone arm.
I have a 1913 unit exactly like that...I've owned it for about 45 yrs, was just playing it. It's such fun and easy to operate. Only wish mine had auto stop
@@spencerbergquist781 the auto stop was a dealer ad on in these years as the nine was not offered with it that early. It isn’t the easiest device to use and has to be set each time you play a record to that particular. Records length. As demonstrated in my videos sometimes they work as intended, and sometimes not.
Really beautiful machine. This is the very first version of the model with the full metal horn. The vv50 came new with the No. 2 reproducer. It was not an upgrade. If you had an older machine with the Exhibition, you could go into a dealer and buy one. The oak is a lot more rare than the mahogany because it wasn't very popular. Oak cases are more expensive to make because of the cuts to the wood to create that look. Creates a lot of waste.
@@Tojazzer I have had multiple VV - 50 machines that had exhibition reproducers. I would have to say the vast majority of the ones I have worked with had the exhibition. One time I found an all brass number four reproducer on a 50, that was a happy day. One or two exhibition reproducers on these machines is just somebody selling them sticking it on there so they have a reproducer if it was missing. When you start seeing more than 10 or 20 like that, chances are that’s how they came. Ago I remember reading someplace about at least the early models coming with the exhibition reproducer that could be upgraded like any other Victrola at the owners expense if they chose. I did have a 50 that once came with a number two on the tone arm and the blue paper Jewel case inside the horn that contained a very nice exhibition.
@@Rockisland1903I just checked with Baumbach's Look For The Dog. He claims that the vv-50 did in fact come with the No. 2 reproducer. This would make sense as they both debuted at the same time in 1921. Nice to find a brass no. 4. That's a keeper.
@@theragingbull7059 I don’t have a 109 here in front of me to examine just now, but there is always a way to get the doors off. You might have to do it from the inside of the machine which means pulling the motor board and maybe even loosening the horn. But you should be able to see something of the hinge and if you see something of the hinge, there should be screws that hold the hinge to the door someplace. I have never yet seen a gramophone with doors that did not have a way to get the hinge off. Just take your time and examine it and carefully disassemble however, much of the machine you must to reach whatever holds the hinges to the wood. Most of these HMV tabletop models are somewhat copy of the Victor machine. This one looks close size to the Victrola number eight. I do have a 106 put away and I will try to get a look at it tomorrow to see what holds the hinges in place as it’s probably very similar to what you have