Auto repairs can be costly. This is dedicated for those brave enough to DIY. I personally would not be able to own many vehicles without doing the repairs on my own.
If you have a manual civic, get a friend to sit in the car and push in the clutch, jump the starter at the positive terminal on the starter to the terminal on the starter, if your car doesn't start, it's the starter, if it does, there's a clutch safety on the back of the clutch that can go bad, it's like a little rubber ball that opens the circuit when the clutch is pressed in, unplug that harness and put a paperclip in and it'll bypass that rubber ball if it's broken, hopefully you've already solved your issue though!
Remember to always push the clutch in when starting though because if you jump the connection with a clip it'll start even if the clutch isn't engaged.
@@cincouno3314 I probably would have to take it to a machine shop to fix any clearance issues and on top of that a new crankshaft maybe needed depending on the damage. So what most people do, like myself, is just get another block That doesn't have bearing issues.
@@RichLifeStories doing my d17 engine on Gen 7 civic and I’m 0.10-0.15mm out of round. Trying to sand the sides that are sticking out for the new undersized bearings with 0.25mm and checking with plastigauge once it’s sanded down. Crankshaft needs to come out and be machined professionally at a shop from what I’ve seen but I’m trying to do it in my own without taking it out. Hopefully it works
Based on some of the comments it seems I wasn't clear in the video. The new rod bearings spun again. The repair for me only lasted a week and the engine started knocking again. I will install a new engine soon. I just haven't had the time to do it. This will be my first time removing and installing an engine.
I just posted Part 2 today. Long story short the fix worked for about a week (about 500 miles) and then it started knocking again. I already brought a spare engine just in case it didn't work out, which in this case it didn't.
I just finished the job Saturday. It took me a while to get to it due to life duties. I tried to film as much as I could but it was my first time doing that job so it's not going to be the best video out there. Long story short, no more knocking and the car drives very well! I will try to post the video this weekend.
Thank you bro it never even occurred to me that it could be a fuse I really appreciate you making the video again. Hopefully save me some time I've been suffering for a few years myself thank you 👍👍😁👍👍
I’ve used Fram filters on my Hondas, they work fine. I wouldn’t use the cheapest orange filter because I run my oil intervals anywhere between 5K - 7K miles, so the Fram Tough Guard or Ultra Synthetic work fine in this application.
@@carlovanrijk4039 the one you are talking about is the orange can of doom which is the one shown on this video. I have used the silver and gold can. Had no issues. The gold one is almost comparable to the Mobil 1 filter from what I've seen
Yes, I did the timing belt, water pump, Hydraulic Tensioner, idler pulley, and Tensioner Bearing; sometime in March 2021. Unfortunately, I don't have that video. At the time that was the first time I ever did that job and I was not very knowledgeable doing that job. The Acura TL is a great car!
You might want to replace your oil pump while you are in there and make sure when you take the rod caps off drag your finger nail across the crank journal if you can feel it catch your nail you should just go buy a junk yard engine and just replace the engine or take it to a machine shop and have them fix it otherwise it will spin the bearing as soon as you start the engine rhe first time
@@gabbybridgetndanieldunne443 I have a D16Y8 ready to drop in just in case. I will check the crank once I remove the rod caps. Thank you for all the information!
I originally bought the bottom bearing (tensioner pulley) even though it seems like the idle pulley, and reused the old assembly, dust cover and bolt. It ended up being loose and a rattle, when tight it would not spin. I suspect the dust cover washer thing was bent or overtightened on it before. The first attempt snapped the new belt in half, so now i just have in on the loose. So now i have ordered the whole assembly, $350 from Acura dealer. I read too many bad story’s on aftermarket parts, gates, deyco, all them. Hopefully it will drive for the next 3 days while i work and wait on the part.
I'm sorry to hear that. I had a hard time choosing what part to go with because like you said each brand has its own issues when it comes to the tensioner. I didn't go with Gates because the reviews are so bad. Deyco also has some bad reviews but for the most part it wasn't as bad as Gates. Thank you for commenting!! I hope this helps others as well!
I originally bought the bottom bearing (tensioner pulley) even though it seems like the idle pulley, and reused the old assembly, dust cover and bolt. It ended up being loose and a rattle, when tight it would not spin. I suspect the dust cover washer thing was bent or overtightened on it before. The first attempt snapped the new belt in half, so now i just have in on the loose. So now i have ordered the whole assembly, $350 from Acura dealer. I read too many bad story’s on aftermarket parts, gates, deyco, all them. Hopefully it will drive for the next 3 days while i work and wait on the part.
thanks, this was the only video that said not to tighten the tension bolt too tight, lol. mine was hard to get off so i cranked it back on, then when i cranked it ...belt snapped and smoke was coming out real badd, just burning rubber i hope. I have to go loosen it no that i see the problem, of hope that is the problem anyway
Usually that code is caused by a failure in one of the elements that heat the oxygen sensors, specifically bank 1 sensor 2. Basically meaning your O2 sensor isn't heating up properly to bring it to normal operational temperature. I'm not a mechanic but there are videos that show you how to test an O2 sensor. More than likely you have a bad O2 sensor.
