This channel shows how we are establishing our homestead and building our post-frame home. We are using it as a learning platform for both you and us. Feel free to ask questions along the way and pass along any suggestions that you may have. If you find our channel helpful in your construction journey please consider subscribing and let us know in the comments.
You can contact us at: ncbarndobuild@gmail.com.
Thanks for watching! We hope that you enjoy the series and can use our experience to build your own homestead.
GO TRUMP! There's a piece of white felt that should have come with your door that goes at the bottom that will stop that leake and no air flow as well.
The doors came with what looked like a small wedge but the sticky stuff on the back was so sticky that I ruined the piece trying to get the backer off. I will have to get some replacements. I bet that’s where they were supposed to go. Thanks!
The plate beams for the rear porch are the biggest. They are 8x12’s. Posts are 8x8’s and the ridge beams are 6x12 for the rear and 6x10 for the front. Timber trusses are between 800 and 900 lbs each. It was a lot of fun putting it all together.
I really like that alternative to the bird box detail. It looks really neat and clean. Are you overall happy with the siding? Can the siding manufacturer supply you with a color matched trim coil to do things like the bird box or other things that may need covered.
All of our overhang steel was from Menards. I could not find a supplier for vented soffit panels in my area so I did the soffit, fascia, and f-channel all from Menards to be sure the color matched and the steel roof and steel siding is from Best Buy Metals in Charlotte. Not sure if BBM white would be an exact match for the bright white from Menards. Very happy with the siding. Make sure you check out the short on the oil canning for the siding. It is hard to see but if that is something that bothers you I would suggest a different product.
@@jhippl you can absolutely use rock wool batts. I thought about doing the same but I was a little unsure as to how you would securely retain it in place. I have never worked with the stuff before. What is your method to make sure it is retained in place?
@@ncbarndobuild it friction fits in place but if you want you can put it in place and nail a 3 1/2 in nail into the inside girt making a few spikes to hold it in place. I’ve moved over to completely using rock wool batts on the walls to make install easier.
Great solution for fire blocking! Would it be beneficial to add fire stop caulking or fire stop expanding spray foam to tighten up any gaps at the posts and drywall? Keep the videos coming.
mmmmn... basically just made a baker scaffold... but a bit bigger... i ended up buying a indoor scizzor lift... and running it on 2 sheets of 1/2" plywood. the moment one of the wheels goes off the plywood, it gets stuck tho lol :P indoor lifts can go for $3-5k, although i paid a bit more for transportation and the market was pretty bit bare. trying to justify the expense as i'll keep it for a workshop... that i havent built yet :P well still saving a ton by diy instead of paying people.
If I was on a slab I would have bought one as well. I needed to build something lightweight that I could put in the crawlspace with my loader and this fit the bill. Even the small scissor lifts are rather heavy.
Hi, I had Versetta Stone installed this past week. The color is Northern Ash which is black. The stone was delivered a few days before the contractor could come to install it. The boxes were open on the top. It rained and when they were taken out of the box, there were whitish water stains on the brick. When the contractor used the saw to cut, there was gray dust everywhere. On the stone and on my driveway rocks. I pressure washed the rocks. The grey dust didn’t come off. I didn’t want to pressure wash the stone, till I could find out if it was ok to. What would you suggest I use to get these whitish water stains and dust off of the brick?
Using a pressure washer is not recommended. The manufacturer recommends a 5% vinegar and 95% water solution with a nylon brush to clean the dust and dirt from the stone. Reference the following product document. versettastone.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/versetta_stone_submittal_packet_WRT.pdf
@@ncbarndobuild Ugh, it’s not coming off very easily. I made a small bottle of the vinegar water, just in case it didn’t work. I did a small area. I can’t imagine doing this, to all of it. My arm is going to fall off. I don’t know what to do.
@@a.j.6018 the problem with using the pressure washer or a harsh cleaner is it would probably void the warranty. I used a somewhat abrasive cleaner on a section of the garage to remove the red mud and it worked good without damaging the stone. I don’t think it would work for your scenario since it is specifically for red mud stains.
Doesn't rebar need oxygen to corroded or rust? If you footer is sitting 12 inches or more below the surface, there is 0 oxygen down there for rust to start in the soil.
@@oldelibertystructures5401 Here is a reference from a materials science and engineering book that talks about underground corrosion. www.sciencedirect.com/topics/materials-science/underground-corrosion#:~:text=Corrosion%20in%20soils%20(also%20referred,buried%2C%20driven%2C%20or%20otherwise%20positioned Let me know what you think.
Great information BUT how has humanity thrived for thousands of years living in caves, logged cabins, skinned teepees, building mud walls and thatched roofs and inefficient stick built homes? At what point does this “over analisys” become cost prohibitive and just plain stupid/an exercise in futility and waste? I’m building a DIY place myself and want to “do it right”, totally off grid and “intelligently/purposefully” designed.
@@OGPLife I applaud you for building a house the way you want. How I am building is just an example of things you can do. I am by no means saying this is the right or only way to build. Here is what is important to us and why we are spending money on home performance. 1. I am in complete control of the air entering my house. In other words all air will be filtered, preheated or precooled, and dehumidified. In my opinion, this is much better than building a leaky (air) house. 2. My air handler and ductwork will be appropriately sized (probably much smaller than normal) to guarantee the most efficient design possible. Thereby reducing up front costs and energy costs over the life of the unit and home. 3. No bugs. Living in the south we have lots of them. 4. At a minimum you have to meet the energy code. 2018 IRC Chapter 11 lays out the minimum requirements. We will be exceeding the minimum requirements for energy efficiency because it is important for us to conserve energy. 5. If I ever have to sell my home (you never know what the future holds) it will give me a competitive advantage over other homes that either just meet the minimum standard or don’t meet the standard at all. In the end, I think we will both be happy with our homes and that is what is important. We work too hard to not have what we want. I wish you all the best on your build and I appreciate you watching our videos and voicing your opinion. Hopefully, I will see you in the comments section on future videos!
I agree 100%. Humans have been building stuff for thousands upon thousands of years, some of which are still in place. But it’s in the last 40 years or so that modern engineering came along with having to have permits, having to follow code, inspections, having do to this, do that and for me it’s nothing more than a money grab and government over reach.
It would take about 10,000-20,000 years for the rebar inside of concrete, sticking out on one end, to rust completely out. Whether it's sticking out or not, concrete is porous. It's gonna get wet whether it's sticking out or not. This is a waste of time. Four 1/2 inch rebars straight down would make it stronger than it would ever need to be. Hell, the concrete without any reinforcement is stronger than it would ever need to be. Cinder blocks sit on top of piers with houses on top of them.
First off thanks for watching and adding your opinion. However, none of what you described meets the 2018 IRC and where I live you would not pass the county inspection and if you can’t pass inspection…..well you get the idea. Also keep in mind that code is the minimum standard. Reference: 2018 IRC Chapter 4
@@ncbarndobuild Which can be overcome by just using the feet things you have there without all the other bullshit. Besides that, why didn't you say that in the video instead of saying that the rebar would rust away?
Curious as to why such a huge sono tube for a porch. Houses are built on smaller piers. Not being judgemental. Maybe something to do with your ground type?
Perfectly good question. Here is what I did. I had a geotechnical firm come out to do a compaction test and soil analysis before we did any construction. For our heavy timber porches I had the manufacturer supply me with all the point loads. All of this data was given to my engineer who then decided what I needed. I am not an engineer but with the porches I think the forces are a bit different than a building with 4 walls. And with it being heavy timbers the weight is more than normal framing. The truss alone was between 800-900 lbs. The posts are 8x8’s and the plate beams are larger than that. All Douglas fir. If you haven’t watched the porch construction video check it out and that will show you what those piers are supporting.
Technically, you would have to use weldable rebar. My understanding is that heating the steel up can reduce its strength. A lot also depends on your building inspector. If you are welding rebar that is not made to be welded he/she would have every right to fail the inspection.
He didn't require a main breaker? Also, where's your bonding screw since you're using the neutral bus bar as a ground bus bar as well? He didn't make you label the service wires for hot, neutral, ground, etc?
Excellent questions. The pole was constructed using the 2017 NEC at the time. If I recall correctly article 230.71 gives relief from a main disconnect because I was less than 6 circuits. You are correct with the bonding. My ground and neutrals were bonded however the panel box was not. The self tapping green screw was missing. Bonding should be at the point of first disconnect. This was intended to be a sub panel (which should have neutrals and grounds separate) and I neglected to install the screw. Excellent observation! The label for the neutral is the white zip tie.
I had to order all of the stone. Most building supply stores in my area have very little stock however anyone that carries Versetta stone should be able to order the sills.
Where I am building we are using the 2018 North Carolina building code. Appendix M is where the wood deck info is located but it is specific to NC and is not part of the 2015 IRC. So….I cannot tell you what is specifically required where you are building. However, I always add rebar/mesh to give the concrete tensile strength. Concrete is very strong under compression but weak when placed under tension. For this reason I would suggest adding rebar to help with lateral movement. Especially where you are with the freezing and thawing cycles. Keep in mind a lot also depends on the type/size of structure. If you wanted to add rebar what I would do if you don’t want to go through the pain of building cages is to pour the columns in multiple lifts. After the first lift set the vertical bars in while the concrete is wet and then pour the remaining lifts while ensuring the sticks remain completely encapsulated in the column. I am not a structural engineer so I am only detailing how I might complete this project based on the information you presented.
@ncbarndobuild thanks! I am doing drawings right now. Thinking of 6feet 12" hole and fill 3" of gravel and 6" concrete to create base and then 60" on 10" sonotube. The footing i am planning is 6x6. Thought of reinforcing concrete in sonotube with rebar (my initial thought was similar to your suggestion). Which concrete do you use? Quick ready mix or regular?
What were the requirements for cleared area for your slab. We are having a pad cleared and have brought in tons of dirt and the company has stated that we need 10’ on all sides of pad per nc code…we can’t find anything stating such! Help please!
I am guessing they are referencing R401.3 which requires the grading to have a minimum of 6” of fall within the first 10’ around the foundation. If you have any fill dirt that will be supporting footings or foundations you are required to have a test done to ensure that the soil is properly compacted and will support your structure. We have a video on our channel that details our geotechnical evaluation. It was done shortly after this video. (Reference R401.2). It is not expensive to do and will give you peace of mind. We were borderline on the compaction test so we elected to put our barndominium on a crawlspace instead of a slab. A bit of a spoiler alert for the channel but if you are interested keep watching the videos sequentially it will help you understand the full process. All references are from the 2018 North Carolina Residential Building Code. If you need/want to chat hit me up with an email at ncbarndobuild@gmail.com with your contact info. I am more than happy to give you a call.
What exactly are you achieving by putting vertical rebar in your piers? Are you expecting a lot of latter movement in the soil? Seems like a massive waste of time and money for no gain
@@porcusmisanthropicus5659 Based on the unfactored post reactions of: DL 212 KIP RLL 2.6 KIP WL 2.2 KIP along with the soil analysis report, our engineer wanted rebar in the column. So, I followed his instructions.
You will appreciate the breezeway. It allowed us to break the build up into 2 different projects which allowed us to get the occupancy permit before the entire build was complete.
I just had my crawl space and footers poured. It is the foundation I am going to use to build the Barn dominium that RR Building built. I got the plan from them. You are the only person on RU-vid that is building on a crawlspace. I plan on encapsulating my crawl space as well. Thanks for making the videos!
Your welcome. Thanks for watching! Hopefully, the videos will help you in your project. Enjoy the process and keep in touch. I would love to hear about your progress.
That's what caught my attention about this channel. Loved the barndo build on a crawlspace. Or you could modify it a bit to make it a full basement. Almost every one I see is built on a slab.
Window sills were set at 36” above the concrete foundation with a laser. Stone height was just slightly less than that due to the fact that I dropped the starter strip (j channel) below the top of the foundation. The stone is roughly 36” tall give or take. Remember Versetta stone is not a perfect product. You will have some slight variations on height.
You are absolutely correct. The only downside would be losing the pre charge in the line set. If I ever need to service the unit that is exactly what I will do.
Best Buy Metals is the manufacturer - BBM board and batten steel siding product. Color is HD Charcoal www.bestbuymetalroofing.com/product-category/metal-siding-soffit/
just seems like a lot larger diameter tube for just a porch. what size posts? a 6x6 post should only need an 18" diameter tube. I agree with not jamming the rebar into thw mud below though. I dont really have the time and money personally to do all of this. I'm about to build a deck. I'm in Tennessee with a frost line of 12" so that could he the difference. I plan on going 36~42" into the ground with 18" tubes. 4 or 5 vertical rebar rods. is making a cage really all that necessary?
Posts are 8x8, ridge beam is a 6x12, plate beams are 8x12 and the timber truss is between 800-900 lbs. (all timbers are Douglas fir).To get the full picture you should check out the truss assembly video. The rebar was called out by the structural engineer who designed everything. I have to follow the plans or I won’t pass inspection.
I got the impression that the 24” diameter concrete was just the footer. In the video, he said the actual post will sit on top of it. He didn’t say whether the post would be wood or metal or smaller-diameter concrete. My guess would be wood, since there was no mention of any rebar connection between two different diameters of concrete forms. And I’d guess for the NC climate, the 3’ height will have the top of this footer above grade. So, it gives a simpler design with the only tradeoff being the use of more concrete.
@@kc9scott you are correct. here is the link to the video that shows the attachment of the timbers to the pier/footer ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-tTmo29Wxc1I.html I think that will clear things up and explain why we did what we did.
Yes it is time consuming trying to get a good fit sometimes. I might swap 4-5 pieces out before I find one I like. If I recall maybe 4 days roughly to finish this project.
