Hey so the 10 amp fuse was all you needed? Is the impala still holding up good, or did it after the video? I did a lot of reading because my impala has security issues too and it seems like the whole security system glitches out on a lot of early 2000s GM cars. I would recommend bypassing it if it gives you problems in the future
@@jeremylomax6867 I replaced the block, it cost me $420 at the junk yard. You have tear your whole engine apart. The block is the bottom part of the engine. Some Kia’s have a recall for it. Go on their website and put in your Vin number to check.
I finally fix it! I got a used short block and it fix the problem. The sleeve on #3 was worn causing piston slap. I’m putting together a whole video on it.
@@conradjohnson9245 it’s so hard not to time it probably. It has 3 marks that you have to line it up. I even put a new timing kit. Still ticking the same.
Mine does this but eventually it will crank. Someone told me it was a loose starter wire but i dont kno if thats it cause it always starts when it wants to.
It’s probably the theft deterrent system, if you have an early 2000s gm car then you will probably need to bypass the security system as it usually gets worse over time
i have a05 impala need help . it was running now it wont start and my battery is dead. and also keep saying its hot and slow down when driving . and my fans to my ac stay on while my car is off
Might need some help with the fans but you can try bypassing the security system with a newrockies pro modules and that might keep it from shutting off
Hey Yall My uncle has a 2004 Monte carlo it did the same thing the crank relay did not have the 98 pin like the impala so I used the 86 pin to a fuse that had power when the switch was and it worked thanks man
This method does not work with the 5.7 hemi 4x4 Jeep Commander. Our oil pan is much bigger and barely fits by the bellhousing and will hit the cross member below. YW😢
Hey so I’m having the same issue with my car Currently. I’m a little confused are you saying the issue with the car is that the security system needs to be rewired. That’s why it’s not starting? I have an 05 impala. Same issue
I’ve had this issue going on for a year now and no mechanic will help me because they said the issue has to happen in front of them in order to know what the issue is. I knew all my answers would be solved by going on YT! So should I just show my mechanic this video?
Shahada, you need to tell a mechanic you are having passlock security issues. On a variety of early 2000s GM vehicles, and some other brands here or there, (mainly that era of GM) they were made with a faulty theft deterrent system that often fails in 3 main different ways, or even a combination of the 3 sometimes, from the chip in the carkey going bad, to the cylinder not working, to the modules themself messing up (BodyControlModule/TheftDeterrentModule), and what happens is your security system thinks it’s being hijacked when you try and drive it normally, so it shuts off and won’t crank or start. This kinda thing is a huge headache to fix, and can often cost thousands of dollars, taking it to different mechanics, getting new computer modules, keys, and ignition cylinders, If you are having the security-light-car-not-starting issue, the first thing I would recommend you do is get a “newrockies pro module.” This is basically an aftermarket module that bypasses the faulty security system entirely. Fairly easy to install, can be done with most home tools, if you aren’t so mechanically inclined a friend could help. They have a pretty nice refund deal to where if it doesn’t fix your car, you can send it back for a full refund. Within 30 days of it being delivered to you of course. It’s supposed to be a permanent fix, but yeah i would try that first, it’s a lot cheaper than going to a mechanic or dealer and trying to get it fixed that way. I have 04 Chevy impala that did the same things.
Dont have an impala or even know how I ended up on this video, but I watched it thru the end and the overall result was very well made. Your commentary was well said .
Hello, just found you video, I have a 2003 chevy venture van no crank no start , replaced the ignition switch cylinder, the stater is good all the relays are good all the fuse are good, the neutral switch is good , on the starter relay I get voltage on pin 85 with the key on that is the positive signal. pin 86 suppose to the negative signal coming from the PCM, the PCM is not sending the negative signal to activate the relay. I apply a negative signal with a power pro and the motor turns but not start. The PCM gets battery voltage and I check one of the map sensor and I get a 5 volts reference, I believe the PVM is ok but I can figure out why is not sending the negative voltage to the starter relay, Also I try to connect the scan tool and is not communicating with the PCM, Do you have any clues. Thank you for your time
@@MiguelRodriguez-pz8wi then most likely your pcm is good like you said but you have to find a way to communicate to it. What type of scan tool do you have?
@@Rayspeed1 I have a Launch Creader V2+ and a Actron pocket scan ,they both say no link on communication after doing the initial scan. I took off the connector pin on the PCM and the wire from the port to the PCM pin ohms good
@@YoudontNeedtoknow-es2xs Cross-fire was making relatively-impressive performance figures, for the era (early-mid-80’s), but, it had a propensity for failure, hence the oft-used nickname “Misfire”. The TPI (Tuned-Port Injection) system which was later used was much more reliable. If I was gonna convert it back to fuel injection, I’d just use Bosch K-Jetronic - that’s the most reliable fuel delivery system you can get on a car.
I drive my car for about 6 miles stop for a while like 20 minutes at the store it doesn’t start right away takes about 3 tries I drive for about a block and my car starts to lose power while accelerating . It turns off the key is still in its right position and the car is still in drive , I try to turn it on it cranks and tries to catch but won’t until the third try. I’ve sent it to 2 mechanics and both are saying it didn’t give them a problem and they charged me $250 for a diagnostic. Help 2005 Chevy impala .
Common problem in early 2000s gm cars. Theft deterrent system were made badly. Should be recalled but greedy mechanics love this issue. I recommend bypassing the security system. Buy a pro module, from the brand “newrockies “ it’s $300 and can be installed yourself, and it’s a permanent bypass to these security systems.
@@jacksonkaos8368security system is really messed up in early 2000s gm cars, it can fail in multiple ways, u fix one thing and 2 other are still bunk, easiest thing to do is bypass the system entirely with a newrockies pro module
If the security system is activated will the police follow you around like you stole your own car ? I had a faulty security system on a ranger and I got insane surveillance , I would get aircraft just by connecting the battery, and I own the truck free and clear with no lean , weird
The green wire fusible link burned on my 2003 Impala LS. The car started perfectly until that happened. What would cause that? I'm thinking the starter or solenoid shorted out for some reason.
What he fails to mention is the gasket gets stuck to the pan while its still bolted in at the pick up tube. The best way to do it is to slowly scrape it off from around the pan
Yeah my ABS light and traction light on. I got new front rotors and pads, new front driver wheel bearing hub and sensor, new front driver tie rod. My code is C1218
Not from the 15Amp fuse under the hood. I only did that for testing purposes you don’t want to use that one because you’ll fry your relay. I grab the power from a fuse by the driver door. The fuse was for the bcm it only supplies power when the keys is on, from there I ran the wire to the relay.
Hoping you still check this video. Started having the same issue intermittently now it won’t crank at all and I’ve gone through two batteries now drained… I was looking to replace the fuse link that’s connected to that terminal to the left of the fuse box is this the same idea?
This car started doing it intermittently and then it wouldn’t crank at all. Sorry I’m not what fuse link you’re saying. My problem is that I was missing a positive at the crank relay.
So the fuse link I’m talking about is actually the signal wire u jumped if you look at the post right there to the left of fuse box there’s a green wire ( fuse link) that connects to signal wire then to the back of fuse box where 98 pin connects.I’m having same issue no crank without a jump wire. After doing this have u had any other electrical problems no wire burns or anything?
Good info. Hopefully this post is still monitored, as I have a question. I have a 2004 Impala that has this issue, but only intermittently. Was yours an intermittent issue or was it dead in the water? Mine did it about 6 months ago and started without further work on the issue after about a half hour. It did it for the second time just yesterday. Again, started after 15 minutes or so. Then, this morning, it did it again. It does have the same symptoms as yours-no crank. I crossed it over at the solenoid, and it cranked but didn't start. I was told that was due to the security, and if I'd had someone holding the key in the crank position at the time I was jumping the solenoid over, that it would have started. At any rate, what are the chances of this being the same "fix" for mine? Any input greatly appreciated.
Ok, so I watched again. If I'm understanding right, you didn't leave the short white wire in the fuse box under the hood, from the 15A fuse to the pin 98 on the relay. Is that correct? You ended up taking that back off and ran a wire from the 10A BCM fuse in the interior fuse panel out to the pin 98 on the relay? From the side of the fuse that was powered up when the key was in the on position (not the crank position), and no power when the key was off? Or did you leave the short white wire from the 15A to the pin 98, as well? If so, was it powered regardless of key position? Again, thanks so much. Very informative.