The plow needs to be adjusted so that it isn't riding on the point so much, and when plowing one way when you back up to the starting end you should put the right wheels in the fir that way you are turning the soil over in the fir with each pass and lays it over more smoothly and evenly. Hope I explained it in a way you can understand.
Great points. The plow doesn't like to be adjusted (rusty). I need to do some maintenance on it. I was kind of working backwards so I could start the furrow as close as possible to the chicken wire behind the plow and work my way down the hill with each pass.
I bought one of these. My only complaint is that I wish it had 1/8" lift increments rather than (or in addition to) 1/4" lift increments. My old Logosol M8 could do either 1/4" or 1/8" lift increments.
@@massmanuteMaybe the physically smaller 1/8 teeth on the lift wouldn't support the increased weight capacity of the F2+ or maybe a cost saving measure.
my local goodwill just put out a 94 Talera right before closing this evening for $15...I'm trying to decide if I should go get it in the morning and bring another one into the stable...don't need, but it's a pretty cool frame set with good wheels and like new tires.
If I could ask, what did you pay for the used mill and saw? I have a Logosol and a 661, thinking of selling them. I know what I paid but was interested in the used market prices. Thanks for your information.
@@gregorymackinnon7537 I had been looking on Facebook marketplace for a while and most used F2 mills were listed close to new prices. I was able to find mine for just under $1,300. (No saw)
Hello!Nice ramp system👍🏻and great new bar.I've been watching Logosol bar for my 661,but my stihl bars are still pretty good condition.I've got f2 plus for 3or4 years now and still learning. Great video. All the best!
Hi David, this is a great run-down of your bike. It's nice to see someone talk so passionately about these older bikes! I'm wondering where you got your information about the seatstays material; is this from experience? I'd like to learn or read more about the different GTs and the materials. Thank you!
The circular is much more effective and safer in this case. I prefer the chainsaw track mill on a swivel which makes cutting easier. It's great for trimming off the sides of a large log and decreasing its width for the 36" Alaskan mill.
Visual appeal is a big factor including the actual grain pattern. Maple is a great hardwood with a pretty smooth surface (ideal for paint or stain). Red Oak has the deep grain and natural reddish color. I like knotty pine with a thick clear coat (pine may seep sap depending on the application). A huge factor is ensuring that it is very dry, probably less than 9% moisture so that it doesn't distort in a low humidity setting. I want to build a solar kiln but currently I only air-dry my lumber. I primarily only mill trees that I have on my property thankfully I have a very diverse forest from sassafras, elm, ash, sweet gum, various maples, oak, pine, and more!
Well done mate , just goes to show us that experience on the job is so important, I have no doubt Granberg will have a rethink and offer your slightly altered design as an option .
I had a 5000 Ford. Too much $ to work on. Luckily I found an injector pump for $1,000. Got rid of it and now have a 53 Jubilee Ford and extremely happy. Parts are cheap and super easy to work on. I just picked up the same scoop used real cheap. I am modifying the system to be able to put an hydraulic top link on it. Next acquisition is going to be a back hoe attachment. This era of tractors are not really strong enough for a real front end loader. The industrial models had a lot stronger front end.
My eyes were first drawn to your camouflage trousers and the fact they were unsat lol. That’s the old Marine in me. As far as utilizing your auger for a log boom is actually a great idea. I don’t recall seeing any other videos on RU-vid about it. Great job 👍🏻
@@davidnagel202 Thanks for the quick reply David. Can you recommend a brand of draw knife, and a width? Also, should I get a flat draw knife? Or something with a curve in it?
