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600 is a max for residential for me. I mean I work on the industrial side maintenance wise and I do service a lot bigger services three phase but for residential this is huge.
@ProTecElectric 15K square feet. Couldn't believe it when I did the load Calc. The builder only factored a 400amp service and they crapped their pants when I told them it would cost 10 times more
I just ran new wires and new box. The float was working great for 17 uears. Last 5 it was on demand. Hooked up the float and wired to the P1 and Pt terminals in my box. Nothing. Can you tell me how to bypass and wire in demand. I remember the pump black was on incoming black. Now, does the neutral pump go to one of the floats and the other float wire to P1? I ordered 2 new floats just in case so every day I have to manually pump by pump wires to incoming.
Until 2020 code cycle the only time you need it a disconnect is if the main penal was not derectry on the other side of the wall from meter. Here where we live some countries require you to install disconnect if SE Cable runs longer than 5 or 7 ft inside of the house before it enters main panel.
I'm surprised that the transfer switch is considered the main panel (thus requiring the ground/neutral to be bonded in that panel) without a main breaker located in there. Transfer switch is on the grid side? Is that new code requirements that changed that or has that always been the case?
That transfer switch is not on the "grid side" of the system. It is on/downstream from the "load" side of the utility meter - the same place that a "traditional" main breaker/service disconnect would be located - and since it is the first disconnecting means AFTER the service entrance (meter), it IS the main/service disconnect/emergency disconnect (it must be properly labled as such). The main circuit breaker, located in the panel board (inside) is the overload protection device for the load(s). Furthermore, those GE 200A switches are rated as "Service Entrace Equipment", and therefore acceptable to use. The only discrepancy I can see, is that the utility-side lugs are not "guarded" (i.e., protected from contact) after the conductors are in place. This is an NEC requirement (for the last few years), but otherwise the installation should comply. I have installed a few of these exact same swithes on stand-by generator installations. Nice switch, but a bit pricey.
@@mephInc Oh ok. I never seen it done that way where they would be coming back to interlock the next brick wall in it. I've always seen where they start from the ground up and go all around a parameter while they work their way upward
@@tymz-r-achangin There's a myriad of reasons why they'd do that. Maybe a small crew, they side may not be ready, weather, etc. It was stated that the house is 8,000+sq ft so maybe they have fancy stuff going on.
Tænker at det er vildt. I Danmark er det normal at have mellem 25 og 35 amp. ved 230 volt x 3 og 400 volt 3 gang. Så 600 amp er vildt. Men det er jo også meget laver spædingen.
Biggest house I ever been to. 8,200 sq.ft . I watched a guy pool I believe 1500 amp to a residential property service. Just the pool and a pool house required 600 amp service and the rest was the main house it was gigantic.
600 amps? We run entire farms on that much power and then we have electricity to spare for a small datacenter. And some wonder why the rest of the world looks at America as a wasteful country. Even for a big big mansion we wouldn't need that much power.
Actually if you do load calculation this house was on the border line 600 or 800 service. Some people they have 200 amp service for really big houses I'm not sure how they pass inspection I assume some inspectors don't know how to do load calculation properly and they let it slide. This house already came with plans precalculated load calculation. I did my load calculation on my own and we need 600. But secondly yeah you can run that whole entire house on half of the amperage if you don't do load calculation. But when people spend three million dollars on the house they want it done right.
@@ProTecElectric so, if you would be so kind to give us a realistic situation in which you would need 120kW of power concurrently. I'm not talking theory, but an actual real life scenario. Because those 200 amp houses work simply because that's all that's needed in a realistic situation. As much as I only need 25 amp
@ProTecElectric retarded bro. I run 2 240v well pumps, 2 houses a detached garage and 3 50amp trailers all on 200amps and am not even tripping breakers even in 115f heat with every ac on the property running. Also have 2 full sized fridges in the garage and both houses have fridges. Anyone who "needs" 800 amps to watch TV and do some gaming/ charge their cars is stupif
@@ColinRichardson 3 apartments? My big boy family home isn't even that large, let alone something you would call an apartment. You can fit my house 5 times into that and I live quite comfortable with my family of 5 in it and both my wife and I have an office to ourselves.
@@patrickd9551 I was having to guess, since this seemed it was the US, and the US has anaemic voltages and counter that with higher amps. We have 100amp but at double the voltage, so used the wattage and came out with 3. Though, knowing the US wiring, I would still guess even with 600amps, they still couldn't power a standard kettle to make a cup of tea.
I'm having an issue where im not getting full power to my house. When my refrigerator cranks on, you can here it not getting full power and its sucking power away from my fan; fan slows way down. Any help, thanks!
How do you determine if the breaker isn't tripping when there is a short circuit or arcing? I had a situation where an old 12awg wire got damaged against a sharp edge in a too small metal box when installing a gfci and the wire melted when I turned the breaker on but it didn't trip the breaker before I manually shut it off. Now that was an arcing situation and not a direct short and this was a standard non gfci/afci breaker. Does that mean the breaker is not necessarily bad? I will probably replace it with a new one but I will still be wondering if it was bad or not.
I was replacing a water pressure regulator with my boss on a house when a storm rolled in. Just after disconnecting the WPR, while we were readying the new regulator, an ark leapt from the water supply to the copper pipes of the house... That ark was so loud and bright. I'm very glad I wasn't holding both ends of the copper pipes when it happened. I'm pretty sure I escaped death. Another job I was called to was an outdoor unit (HVAC) that had been hit by lightning. The destruction path was surprisingly, intricate. There was a hole in the accumulator to start but somehow the air-handler took the brunt. As you looked at the air-handler... Every screw holding the doors on had a sooty black star pattern. The indoor coil had a hole. The t-stat wire needed to be replaced from t-stat to handler. And... The t-stat needed to be replaced... I cannot believe we didn't replace the unit lol. But it's crazy how lost lightning can get.
from the outside it looks like it hit the line for the outdated pots and sometimes lightning can be like a mini EMP like i can remember when lightning struck the transformer or the ground wire for the transformer of which the lighting arrestor failed as it literally exploded i used to find shards of it and the transformer ended up failing as they was unable to get it to energize even after replacing the pole fuse.....that old thing wasnt rated for 200 amp service anyways but onyl things that seemed damage was low voltage stuff like not everytihng with a circuit board was fried like i had u-verse at the time the stuff on ethernet got cooked like the dvr i had dead alongw th some ethernet switches and one of my wireless routers and somehow even the thermostat which has its own wires
Cut a piece of cardboard from the box the panel comes in and masking tape it to the panel cover (completely covering it) so the drywallers can't get shit all over them. I usually slice a sort of "H" into it so you could open the cover if necessary.
Would have installed two 40 circuit panels and a spare conduit leading to attic for future circuits. Had to install 3 yo 5 new circuits just for kitchen updates.
Yes for personal home definitely good idea for future. But when you build for a house builder, they don't really want to pay for something they are not going to get profit today for by homeowner.
Nice work, brother. Im a home DYI and do many things myself. I just installed a sub panel to my garage and learned a few things about subs in the process. We all can be electricians if you just educate yourself. Not on youtube either.
I have a question so I have a 30amp for my hot water heater when the old heater was token out it was leaking at the heat elements and water was every where then it made a pop electrical spark so should i change my breaker for new one .?
I would test it to make sure you still have voltage going through when it's on and no voltage when it's off. Breakers are designed to be reset and be reused after short, unless they go bad.
Nice job brother 👍 Looks like they tried to bypass the meter and steal electricity. I upgraded my own meter and panel without calling the poco. Just cut the SE lines and reconnect with an insulated splice. 😂 learned it all from RU-vid.
