Stortz Tools has been in business since 1853. We manufacture and distribute hand tools for the roofing, masonry, painting, and other specialty trades. Located in Philadelphia, Pa, we continue to provide the markets with high quality tools.
Awesome job teaching your craft! I design and build custom chimney caps. Any tips for bringing the panel connections together on a hip and ridge with 5 ribs intersecting. Looking to make sure my design is water tight. Thanks
Our objective here is to show the audience whether it be installer or property owner the capability and simplicity of a fully double folded standing seam system. This is the most common type of valley feature on historic homes and buildings. Care should be taken when using long panels runs, copper or zinc always keep in mind thermal movement this isn’t for every application but works well in most cases.
Certainly should be standards in training. Fundamentals of notching and making the knots correctly is lacking. Very bad to promote as training or instruction
Standards in training? I have yet to see any training here in the US that explains the application of double fold valleys. Hey can you even find another display of this anywhere else other than a book presently? Any training held here is dismissive of any of the practical details such as hip, ridge and valleys. The focus in the Euro product realm here is chimney and skylights. There’s a time and place for everything but we’re trying to shed light on the simple every day common details that every roofer will be dealing with on a day to day basis especially the historic restoration sector where the new roofs look like something you would find on a commercial building . Sure this a dumbed down version of what you will find in a hand book. I can say that I have personally fabricated and installed thousands of feet of valley this way with good results.
@@craighardin3725 yes. Guber at copper works corp was the first in the 20th century to seam valleys in America. he trained ben Phanco and imported Erno to the states in the late 90s/ early 2000s. in 2010 we went to the Scra and timber framing conference to battle with Joe Jenkins. in 2013 Joe and I published the first Internet video of seaming. your halibran book available thru stortz in Philadelphia shows the proper method.
@@craighardin3725 wow Craig that devolved into word salad. lets start with the historical examples in Pennsylvania and Virginia. I've documented many many European tailored historical roofs in Maryland, Pa, and Va. there is also a history in seaming in guadelop other French colonies in the carribean.
@@KurtisHordthere are certainly many examples of this type of valley still in service on roofs like you had mentioned. What I was referring to was demonstrating the process whether it be RU-vid or other content . From what I have seen in my years of research in this particular craft there are little to none. You should make a video demonstration using your technique, I’m sure many folks would be interested myself included.
This is unfortunate to watch. Always pre cut and pattern your hips and valleys using math. Running a whole lock out and cutting thru straight is wasteful of material and time, and effort. Spenglers learn this In school. So do timber framers. As for the folding, it’s much better practice to notch your seam ends just like in the hallibran book.
There is a big risk when notching the seam ends in a valley much more so than a hip and ridge. Also there is no need for precise figuration in panel layout when working the field. I personally find this method to be much faster than pre determining exactly where the cut will be located.
@@craighardin3725 seaming with accuracy does indeed present risk of failure, much like if you cut a joint wrong in timber framing you risk it not fitting. the key is to use the precedents that have already been established. notching for copper and steel has been used in the guild training for hundreds of years. why reinvent the wheel?
@@craighardin3725 Craig... think of how framers work... they don't place each hip rafter and ruff cut it, then cut it again. they use their training to pre cut, then ship for assembly. Seamed roofing works the same way. a hip table is a valley table. find your rafter length as a checksum, subtract the bisector and you have your true length. then you cut the blank and notch it, then you form it, then you ship it for assembly.
@@craighardin3725 if you are searching the training on how to use math to avoid ruff-cutting look no further than Neubecker: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-4RDLaV3o7pw.htmlsi=3Ej8-o7vqo7x9_Jb
I live in Ohio, southern Ohio. I’m building my first home. Metal roof standards in Ohio were designed around building Barnes. No one in this area uses sheathing, the standard here in my area is rafters to the trusses and go down with the metal, standing seam is too pricey for 99% of these people so finding information locally is hard. The tools that you were using in your demonstration if I was to buy entire coil of metal and those tools could I in theory make all my own panels?
When you watch a Craftsman like this guy taking the time to fabricate his own parts, you can rest assure that he is going to do the job right. This is attention to detail that you don't often see.
This is a Euro detail out of the Rheizink training book. It is recommended for roof slopes no less than 25 degrees. It’s not wrong but there are certainly other ways to preform this detail depending on slope and circumstances. This is a simple cross seam detail easy to use when installing preformed double lock standing seam panels.
I have a unique need on a project I'm currently running in Charleston and this video was the only one I could find which featured how to crimp the ridge of a home, and so it was the foundation for my discovery process for this project. Some answers to questions I saw in the comments and didn't see answers to: 1) What is the blue/yellow tool featured in the video? A) The product is RAU 104 Tin Edge Claws. According to a Stortz represenatative, they get calls 12x a year from this video looking to source the equipment, and it was discontinued about 4 years ago. An alternative is Stubai 45 degree Beveled Deck Tong from the Stortz website. 2) Why would you do this over ridge cap? A) Hand crimped roofs are the only roofing systems I still see functioning today from over 100 years after installation. It's a lot more work to do this type of ridge detail, but you may choose to offer a crimped ridge as either a solution focused on longevity, or, as in my case, as a requirement from a governing historical body. Ridge caps are not allowed to be installed in my project's jurisdiction, and thus I'm locked in to a hand crimped finish regardless of what I'd personally prefer. 3) What about ventilation? A) Ventilation for roofing systems can vary; in the case of the structure I'm working on, the house has gable ventilation, and hasn't had any ridge ventilation for the past 120 years. In the case where it's an open ceiling, for example, over a front porch or back patio with exposed rafters, there is no need for ventilation. Hope this helps save somebody some time!
Stoked. Is it that you just made this video or is that a new technique? I’m thinking this has been the way forever right? I’m actually going to look through old photos to see how I have been making the bottom panel cuts. The finished product is definitely perfect Nice work
The old way of cross seams were typically double fold welted joints or single lock and soldered . These were done in a shop on a work bench and made into coils yielding several cross seams per roll that typically covered 100 sq ft. Although there were always joints made in the field they were usually done the same way. This video explains the technique when using the modern roll formed panels.
Awesome work, thanks for sharing this! When is this rake edge detail preferable to a drip edge style cleat with the end pan folded over it along its length? Is it just an aesthetic preference?
It’s probably more of aesthetic preference however the standing seam will certainly prevent the rain water from rolling off the gable end unlike the drip edge hemmed style.
I learned to do standing seam roofing with follansbee terne in the 1980s. I did alot of it till the mid 1990s When formed pans and rollformers on trailers became the norm Was a lot of fun and work
I am lost. I have asked on every forum and no one can tell my why I would buy this tool rather than a simple hemming tool (two plates with a spacer and T handle). They would not make it for the fun of it. What makes this better for about 5 times the price?
How is this better than epdm boots with np1 sealant unter the metal ring. Good luck better that sleeve and panel on a pipe on a 12/12 roof three stories in the air. I move pipes with elbows when they have be moved to make layout work with all the pipes on the sode otherwose the panels are laid out accordingly so nothing has to move
Do a big hole on the plywood and screw angle lever front of it. Then just adjust right angle and put cone of it and mark bottom to same level on plywood. No need for math
I'm dying to see how you make the cone part! I've learned alot from your channel that will help me be a better roofer and this detail is something I definitly want to learn!
ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-0ebDhwEm5G4.html - Sorry that took a week to get out! We did not cover the template making, so that may take some experimenting. But the overall method is simple. Thanks for watching!
Do you ever use a bag of lead shot as a dolly? Seems like that sort of thing would have been useful on that last peen-over, to hold the cone top in place without deforming it.
