Doing a great job

hay that's massive progress well done 👍👍

Thank God you had your safety footwear on! 10:50

Your neighbor in canada can do more with metal and types of wire/gas mixtures than most can learn in a lifetime. He has great playlists, and does do a lot of teaching of how to do this. Kyle Carter is his name, Carter Auto Restyling is his channel name. Do watch his channel, especially the 36 chevy build list as it does deal with old rigs similar to this.

As someone who has trained hundreds of students mig welding sheet metal you would save yourself a lot of aggravation and time wasted by taking a short course in mig welding.

G'day the ute is getting there

Please don't sell that vehicle and ensure your family see this video so they know what they are inheritance actually is.

Hay I think your doing ok , you’ve actually given me inspiration to do something with a mig welder in the near future 👍😊

Great video..The only people who dont make mistakes are those that make nothing.It is interesting to see you learn as you go. When this is finished you will be able to stand back and say ,"I did that!" Just subscribed to follow your journey.

Forget the weld proof primer, keep to clean steel. Get some 1mm steel sheet and cut some small sections off it or use an old scrap body part to set up the welder before you start welding the vehicle or any vehicle. Make sure your welding helmet lens is clean and contact tip in the torch is new. Wleding tips below if you want to see how I learnt how to do vehicle bodies years ago. Clean back using an 80grit flap wheel carefully so as not to make the test piece or vehicle section thinner. Make a good earth connection. Ideally, use 0.6mm wire but if you have 0.8mm that will do. Turn the amperage/voltage setting to its lowest setting. Turn the wire speed to No2. Turn the gas down so you can hear it leaving the gun but not hissing loudly. The above are start point settings. Pull the trigger on the torch to see how the wire feeds out onto your test piece and watch and listen to the arc. Keep doing this until you get a nice round tack, not heaped up, not elongated or odd shaped but round. You want to achieve a buzzing/sizzle sound. Any crackling adjust the wire speed only when welding thin steel sheet. With thin metal, you need to be aware of heat input and as with any welding get comfortable and do "dry runs" to make sure you are comfortable welding. Tack the piece in four places if possible. If happy with welder settings and repair patch location, go half way between tacks and tack again. When you have roughly 12 tacks in place (subject to repair patch size) then overlap tack in an alternating pattern (Like doing up a cylinder head or wheel nuts) around the patch until you have completed the continuous bead around the patch. Do not, blob sloppy slug or drag the torch. Hold it at 90degrees where possible to the pieceand one short but stead pull on the trigger for about a second. Avoid at all costs trying to run a bead on vehicles, the parent metal is too thin and you will burn through and then have to build the hole up with weld.

Is the primer you are using considered a “weld through” primer.

Yes put the guard and eye protectionon I am amazed by the number of RU-vid video car restorers who do not have the guards of eye protection on . As a nearly 50 year body repair man I am horrified by the amount of people who dont have guards on especially the American sites, i know it looks good with all the sparks but you only have one set of eyes

looking good.....have to say....put the guard back on the grinder....those things can do a lot of damage to you if the disc breaks

coming along nicely now 👍👍

Might slow down camera movement and use a tripod when appropriate. Continued good luck with your project.

looking more solid with each video....well done

Magnets

I’m new to your channel, will definitely watch the progress.

Due to the extent of the repairs required, I would strongly recommend buying replacement chassis members rather than patching. Only replace one part at a time with the cars weight spread evenly. You should also have the bare doors hung so you can check for distortion as it's very easy to twist the car doing so much repairs. Good luck.

Not sure how deep your pockets are.... Strip it and dip it if you can afford it or get really dirty and clean it all off and see what you got. Nothing else you can do really. Good luck. Personally I would keep plugging away and see what I got.. Your only going to do it once, its half the fun and lets face it TV is really crap!

Loving the special guest stars in the video! #moredogs

Think you need to go to welding school.

yes the wire is useless!

That’s the coating on the wire, sounds like your getting too close and it’s Arking back on the gas shroud, plus slow the wire feed down slightly to stop clumpy welds, it just takes practice

The copper colour is actually a protective coating, but the wire will start to rust through it if left for a time.

rusty wire will cause exactly that!

Keep up the good work

I've spent a year part time cutting out the rust and replacing it in my 54. I'm hoping to get it driveable by the end of the year. Keeps me busy in my retirement. Greetings from Australia

you need a plasma cutter to cut out bad sections and a gas welder and you will be so much happier you had them both ,for that thin of metal chep ones would work

I have had the exact same problems using a gasless welder, I ended up digging out my old gas fed welder & repairing it, Then luckily I found a very obliging gas bottle delivery driver who "donated" a pub size Co2 bottle to my cause, just a shame he couldn't donate a Co2/argon one!, maybe you can find a friendly pub landlord to oblige you with a Co2 bottle as those little Halfords type bottles don't last very long & expensive for what they are.

you are not really going to weld that laying upside down under that car...?? you better be carefull...

maybe use a metal bender to make new box sections to weld back in.......any are you can see when you have cut rotted parts out run a wire brush over it then rust reformer...then blast with paint...gives it a better chance in the future

Gloves!🚑

surely the title should read "Minor Patch"!!!

Hi buddy I am a classic car owner and a mechanic I would cut it out and replace it but to be fair only seen a quick look at your project

Have you tried putting brass behind the part you are welding. Best thing I did was buy a gas welder from static arc you can turn the power down to reduce blowing holds I'm very happy with mine and it was less than £200 think of it as an investment

you really should work on a bare chassis, much more convenient and effective and ultimately quicker

Just put the paint on thick, that'll give it back it's strength.

Another MM reminisce from Canada… as I watch your videos in sequence! Much like you I spent countless hours repairing my MM. patched gaping holes with fibreglass, brazed in pieces of bodywork. Bought pieces of red oak to refashion rotted parts of the frame of the estate portion. Painted it a lovely colour of… oh no what looked like ivory cream under the fluorescent lights in the store turned out to be a lurid flesh tone pink! Remember the rusted, twisted frame? That explains why it went through so many synchromesh rings. In 1970 or 1971 there were lots of old MMs rusted and abandoned and I acquired a bunch of transmissions - I got fairly proficient at swapping out transmissions and could do it in about 2 hours! Once, in an attempt to boost the power, I removed the head, ground the valves, then put the head back on substituting some gasket goo material for the head gasket to decrease cylinder volume and increase compression. It worked. Zoomed like a race car! But… wouldn’t shut off! Dieseled merrily on with no ignition on! But the fuel pump switch from the propane gas experiment came in handy! I’m lucky I lived to be 18, let alone 71 as I am today!

Hi again, more from Canada. For a short time, I converted the MM to run on propane gas. Remember this was 1970 and I was just 16 or 17 years old. Drilled a hole in the intake manifold and tapped it for 1/8” pipe thread. Ran a hose to a regulator on a 20 pound propane tank located - wait for it - in the passenger foot well. Put a switch in the gasoline fuel pump circuit. Started the engine on gasoline, switched off the fuel pump, waited for the carb bowl to empty and the engine to falter, then turned on the propane valve. There was some sort of vacuum controlled regulator in the propane line which I ordered from the Whole Earth Catalogue (who remembers that?). Car would idle but that was all due to low pressure set on the tank regulator. But it worked!

Hi from Ontario Canada, I just stumbled across your channel and I’m very glad I did. My first car was a 1958 MM Estate which I bought for $25 when I was 16. The throw out bushing was destroyed so I changed it in situ which I later learned was impossible when I acquired the shop manual! I took the car in for a wheel alignment but the tech laughed at me when he discovered that the rusted frame had been patched up by welding a piece of angle iron to it making the wheels 1/2” out of true. The inside of the front tires wore down extremely quickly so I bought 4 retreads and rotated them weekly! I loved that car. Eventually the frame collapsed while I was driving: the left torsion bar snapped free, the steering veered to full right turn, and I ground to a stop over the low stump of a newly felled tree. I took a route home involving only right hand turns where I inflicted the car on my parents where it sat until it was towed away to its metallic grave. Probably got melted down to become part of a Buick or a fridge.

It may be a good idea to use Bonda Rust primer in the chassis box section before you close it up , keep up the good work.👍

Keep up the great work, currently doing the same on my 106 GTi hole after hole, but all learning curve, slow and steady. All the best.

good progress , your doing great , its time to get the hoover out to hoover all the rubbish n rust out of the chassis rail 👍👍

More great progress, keep it up.

Ohh man, I really love your videos. Thank you so much for making such videos.

My advice is that your first choice should be to work with what you have to hand. The car, your tools, your shed your noggin.

I have a pickup that needs a little welding and paint. I’m new to LCVs so it’s good to see what the chassis is all about. Thanks for sharing the work on the pickup 👍