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Salut ovidu! Vreau să montez pe o skoda Octavia 2008 4x4 1.9 bls cruise control. Ce piese îmi trebuie în afară de semnalizarea schimbată cu una cu pilot ? Mulțumesc
I made mine completely working just with the plate I didn’t need to code it but I have hard steering and a steering wheel light on how the fuck I fix that hard steerign
Turn steering wheel to maximum left for 10 seconds, then maximum right for 10 seconds, then centre it, sometimes you have to drive the car for a short distance. If that doesn't work, there's a vcds procedure you need to do.
@@OvidiuMarin i tried but didnt work the car has the same orange wheel light and steering wheel is hard like a mechanical one why that happened because i changed the plate?? i need vdcs coding i think
Salutare, felicitări pentru acest proiect! Sunt pasionat de apicultura și aș vrea să-mi construiesc și eu acest tip de cântar, ati putea să-mi dați și mie librăria pentru arduino, contracost bineînțeles.
thank you for the video. I did the whole process and also the coding. When viewing the live data from the steering wheel controls and the module using the buttons of the cruise control stalk I can see the values changing so everything is well connected and communicating with each other. But I get the fault p0568 in the engine module. Do you maybe know why that could be happening?
@@OvidiuMarin pretty much. got an email from creality today. apparently they have new and old mother boards for the k1 max and they sent me a newer version which i guess isnt compatible with my older k1 max.
Bro you just changed the country for ecu that could hurt the engine. Instead use security access first the open up google translate camera and go to modules where you can individually control those items. Just changing the country code in ecu is easy but it might change the power and torque as per region. And if the car is not shipped stock with the physical equipment required to sustain that countrys engine map you could potentially brick your car or reduce engine life span drastically
First layer is definitely to fast.. But, in the experimental tab.. look at the gcode z offset setting.. they are -.05 from the factory.. I found - .04 is much better.. -.03 was to tight towards the back of the bed.. You can add flow to the initial layer, mine is up to 108%... The first layers are much better.. hope this helps..👍
Hi, thanks for your advice. I've slowed the first layer down to 100mm/s. Regarding the z offset, there are areas of the bed where the first layer is perfect, and areas of the bed where the nozzle is either too close , either too far.
@@OvidiuMarin I'm experiencing the exact same issue.. that Is how I found out about the z offset setting In the slicer.. I suspect these beds aren't completely flat, and most likely the reason the z offset was -.05 by default.. it's unfortunate there isn't a mesh we could adjust on the fly to compensate for slight bed warp..
Well, it is supposed to print at high speeds. Specially PLA. But I did try, it's a warped bed issue, and for some reason the software doesn't compensate for the Z offset values for every point of the probed bed mesh.
Someone suggested to modify the line width to 0.38mm, which kinda worked, but I will also print the lid riser and do the cable chain bowden clips mod. And I will print the TPU bed spacers. Also, creality is sending me the new extruder.
You could try printing out cable chain Bowden clips and a lid riser to see if that fixes the issue, There’s models on printables you can download. The clips and lid riser can help with under extrusion on the k1
Thank you, I'll give that a go. But, in my opinion, for the amount of money that K1 Max costs, you would expect to be plug and play, without any tuning/mods etc.
This is most likely under extrusion. I use 3d printers but I am not an expert in the field but I am very sure this is under extrusion. If you look up images of under extrusion they look like your print. This can be caused by many factors such as nozzle cloggs or extuder jams.
I thought the same, but it's not evenly across the bed. On some areas, the lines are fused together as one ( no gaps at all ). Which makes me think the mesh bed levelling doesn't compensate for warped bed.
@@OvidiuMarin do a higher leveling density, make sure nothing is under your bed, mesh level the bed at temp, make sure your nozzle size is the same as the one in the slicer and on your printers, and then fully do a z axis leveling by printing out a 1.5" strip that goes across the entire y axis of your printer
Hi, it was not needed on mine. The seller should've provided you with an installation procedure manual. Have a look online, I'm pretty sure there should be a guide for it. If you can't find it, let me know.
@@OvidiuMarin Thanks for geting back to me. I have yet to purchase the kit and it does look to come with an instruction booklet. I have just been researching the process before purchase because the official kit is expensive and I don't particularly want to have to mess with the ecu wiring on install. Also did you use an obd2 to usb cable for vcds or one of their wifi/bluetooth obd2 dongles?
Thanks for the video. I have a newer Octavia from after 2009. It has some extra buttons on the steering for controlling the radio, phone calls etc. Would that make much difference, like more wires, or is it basically the same?
Hi, thanks for the comment. It's basically same thing, you need to look for a highline steering wheel controller. You need the XXX-953549-XX version, so 2 digits at the end
Salut , doar trebuie schimbat calculatoru de coloana cu unul highline? Sau trebuie si codat calculatorul? Eu am midline si vreau sa pun si comenzile pe volan .
Da, orice modul schimbi, trebuie codat. Sau măcar verificat coding-ul. Pentru ca nu știi de pe ce masina l-ai luat si nu știi ce functii sunt sau nu activate.
Depinde de la masina la masina. E destul de simplu. Intri cu vcds pe calculatorul pentru coloana volan si intri in coding. O sa iti apara un mesaj cu toate informatiile necesare pentru a efectua o codare corecta
Salut bro, I have found your Chanel recently as I am doing a MK3 steering wheel installation on a MK2, I so far have the wiring loom, steering wheel & airbag of course. Was just requesting your option do I need any other parts? For context I only want playback options such as forward song etc and volume control I am not fitting cruise so I shouldn’t need the control module is what I understand? MFSW Loom part number: 3V0971584A Any advice is appreciated
Thanks for your video and work ! I'm on few automotive forums, I would like to ask you, what do you advice to use for reading mcu or do prog stuff, vvdi ? Carprog ? and why ? For the moment I use the T56 Universal programmer (successor of TL866 gen and + models) to read EEPROMS. The fact is I want to go further, I just do little stuff to help family and friends with some obd specialised program and diag without needing to read/write .bin, but I'm want to do more 😁 Thanks 👍🙏
Hi, thanks for your comment. Throughout the years, I've found that if you don't have genuine tools, it is better to have access to a multitude of tools, I have xprog, vvdi, carprog, tl866+. Most of the time, I use vvdi and TL866+. Please subscribe to the channel. Thanks 😊
