I do recommend BUT if you’re running a lot of outdoor in the weather gigs make sure you’re not using GFCi outlets, use non-GFCI or an L6-30 (found on yellow contractor power boxes) and theyll be happy with 220v
Audiopile.net but if you buy from Amazon or somewhere make sure you buy genuine neutrik parts. I had a knockoff where a pin didn’t work and caused problems.
Clean setup. I built a rack for a small band using the same crv amp to powe their speaker rig 2 mains (mono) , 2 subs (mono), 2 montior mixes. Very compact and great power.
Turns out the S16 only operates as master so there’s no choice but to make the LS9 slave. The idea is if the s16 was slave it would also be slave to the x32 as well and that can’t happen
@@MrSamsstudiosthank you for that. Out of everything I’ve been learning I got confused on what the master clock should be between all the videos I browsed
You are using the driverack pa2 the wrong way. I don’t understand why you’re not using the high output. This is one of the reasons why sensitive equipment like this get damaged. All because of operator abuse. The proper way is to use separate amps for high and low speakers or separate amps for high, mid and low speakers for bigger sound.
@@MrSamsstudios There’s no such thing as “high frequency amplifiers “. All you have to do is buy amplifiers that have the recommended power rating for your high, mid and low speakers. As long as you have the right separate amplifiers and speakers connected, the driverack pa2 will do the crossover settings for you. That’s why it’s called speaker management processor.
It’s on the small side, decent for monitors. None of the soundtown amps are large enough for subs/mains. They say they have a lot of output but I seriously doubt it
How are your tops/subs hooked up? You said you are jumping from sub to top. Are the cables four conductor and the tops are using the second pair of conductors or something?
@@FOHFILMS correct, I use patch panels wired with subs on pins1 and tops on pins2. Four conductor cable to each sub and then there’s a special jumper cable using pins 2 on the sub side and pins 1 on the tops side. This only works in bi-amp situations, not tri-amp. Some of my speakers are biamp only (Triamp w subs) so the jumpers will not work but for passive tops it’s a nice shortcut
Great info. I have a couple of questions for you. Is there any way that you can do a more in-depth video on the DBX on how you setup and save all your customs speakers and amplifiers setup in the DBX? And I see that all of your amplifier are 4 channels. Can you tell me what brand are they? Also, why do you go with that brand of amplifier?
I’ll try and do a video on the DBX soon, the driverack is only for mains and all my speakers are passive so it’s a good fit. Amps are soundtown (see review I did)
90-240v, all amps will run on 110 but most can exceed 15a draw easy drive to max power. I chose the d1004 because it’ll only draw 19a 110v at 1/3 power (heavy clip) all channels 4 ohm. Still has enough power tho at 1000w/ch @8 ohms
I can’t see the video at the moment but these are some cheap sinbosen k4-450s I bought off Alibaba a few years ago. Meh, not enough power output so they’ve been replaced (see my soundtown amp review)
SJTW is thermoplastic, which gets really stiff in colder weather. I made the mistake of buying an SJTW extension cable once. Won't do that again! I do live in Nebraska, so our winter's can get REALLY cold!! All my power cable now is SJOOW. Keep up the good work and thanks for sharing your videos. I always enjoy seeing what others are doing.
Oh hey; good to know. I usually make power stringers with SJOW 12/3 and some nicer quad boxes. I kinda like these and went to buy more and… back ordered. I’m also looking on the Alibaba type sites since I guarantee seismic buying this stuff from a few suppliers en mass
All these speakers on this event I built years ago, basic 12/1” design and it’s a great utility speaker for mains or monitors, fills, whatever. The only alto speakers I own are tx308 and for small fill speakers only, and some alto black 12/1” monitors
@MrSamsstudios I was thinking of those black 12"/1" Alto speakers. The ones that became passive speakers. Your speaker inventory is bit big so I hope you see my confusion.
Ah, yeah, it’s confusing! I’ll do a video in a few days of the Altos. This gig I didn’t use them, they’re a bit heavy and also a 4 ohm cab. I’ll use them in situations where I need loud from only a box or 2 per amp channel
@@MrSamsstudios 👍🏻 Notifications are on so when you upload the video on the Alto speakers... And maybe a little bit more information on your self build speakers from this event? Wouldn't mind it!
Good idea. The DBX PA2 has a nice iPad interface which makes life easier. It can be confusing but as a basic crossover and brick wall limiter it’s great. I don’t use the compression or sub harmonic synth
You've got downstage and upstage flipped my friend. Upstage is where your drums are (back of stage) downstage is where your vocals are (front of stage) this is because theatres used to have sloped stages pre-phantom of the opera era theatres. Over time, venues started to build with line of sight in mind for a flat stage. The labels stuck. Cool setup tho, all the best.
Okay I’ve been trapped in the rabbit hole of digital mixers for weeks now! Can you please give me a straight up answer what tablet and operating system are you running with your X18
I've recently purchased two of the 25 ft. Used on one gig, so far so good. The lighted outlets actually worked well for allowing the musicians to know where to plug in their backline on stage. I will say, watch them on concrete. They do scuff up very easily
I am wondering what type/brand cable tester you have. It's in the blue container. And a very useful tip: Always cut zip ties right after the part were that locks it. That way you have free re-usable zip ties. I am working on quad boxes myself but they will be 100% thick walled rubber housings. And those are a bitch to cut. Cabling will be done with Powercon so that length is easily adaptable to the situation and stage size. As for the lit sockets: Black electrical tape on the inside?
There’s a few testers: Fluke 101 for electrical, Behringer Ebtek knockoff , EWI bug catcher, and Behringer CT200. There’s also a cheap one for capacitors and a homemade box for testing polarity of passive speakers
The mics are 2 soundtown dual handheld racked. Not great but they can change frequencies, sound is ok, metal mic handle. Not my first choice but it’s ok and they’re cheap
There's a very clean version of a "strat" bass available on the market that got released around 2021 with Stanley Clarke in the add. Search - Lieber Guitars 'SpellCaster' ...Strat jack, wangy bar, the whole 9 yards
That SoundTown LOOKS like a Powersoft. The interior however... Would be interesting to get a real output number on them and the Sinbosen as there are only minor differences. Great video and exactly as I like them!
Not sure where this design comes from but it’s definitely being copied a lot. These amps are far more prevalent overseas, if it’s well made and tested I don’t mind using them but these amps I’ll probably rotate out in a year for something better. I’ve been impressed with the CVR amps and I’ll do a review in a month or so
@MrSamsstudios The exterior looks like the Powersoft M-series. That interior looks like a generic power module. With some digging we should be able to find the origin of it. If we want to. And thumbs up on that CVR review as it's unknown in Europe.
E-tape is only for the speaker poles. As far as passive vs active, well, as long as the gear is good quality I’ll use it, it nothing worse than bad active speakers
