@@modificationnation73 really?? I’m about to pick up a 05 with a 6” fabtech lift with 40x15.5…. Maybe it too has a body lift and I didn’t see lol… dang
@@blakerodriguez5999 I had the 40’s off one of my HMMWVS and needed something to put them on so I lifted my 03’ H2… I thought they would fit! Once the lift was on it wasn’t coming off. lol.
@@blakerodriguez5999 40’s with a 6” lift? I highly doubt that. If so, the backspacing has to be crazy and you definitely won’t be able to off-road at all. I’d be skeptical if I was you.
@@modificationnation73 really??? Yeah I mean the wheels are definitely not sticking out far… and it looks like it has plenty of clearance… I guess I need to look and see if it has a body lift. How does yours drive? I’m looking to daily drive this thing… I know it’s not the smartest things but my boys are into monster jam and figured this was the closest thing to it lol..
I have a 2006 H2 Hummer. I too want to upgrade my tie rods. I searhed on the internet and they point to a chevrolet 2500HD or 3500HD. I looked at the compatibility chart with no Hummer to be found. Can you send me a link where I can buy the same upgrade kryptonite tie rods for a 2006 H2 Hummer? Thanks
It’s not about the thickness it’s about of the quality of the steel the metal maybe kryptonite is made out of Chinese metal and is made with American steel
do you have a video with the truck crank. I want to hear how loud those headers are. I'm told you get better gas mileage with headers. Thoughts? Do you get better gas mileage and do the headers make the truck louder? And are those shorty or long headers?
I get worse gas mileage with headers. The tune will determine a lot. The truck is definitely louder with the headers than stock manifolds. I will post a video of the sound for you.
I think I did forget the transmission issue. The cooler lines go onto the radiator and the passages corrode and the antifreeze mixes with the trans fluid and burns it out. I have an external cooler and aftermarket aluminum radiator.
I’m running 7” round LED jeep lights off Amazon in both H2’s and a few H1’s I have. For the H2’s you have to cut the plastic headlight backing plate with a dremel but there are videos that show you how. Make sure to get the canbus anti flicker.
i know a guy who is selling his 04 H2 and it has 265,000 miles on it. it is very clean underneath the truck no leaks under the hood. no roof leaks of any kind it is a high miles truck . my question to you is do you think if he is only asking $6,000 in your opinion is this a good investment
Well first I’m not an expert! So, I can just say what I would do and not necessarily what you should. 6K for one that has 265k on the clock could be ok depending on the truck. I would have to see it. With that mileage the engine and trans/T case will need to be replaced soon probably if they haven’t been already. I definitely wouldn’t say it is an investment… it’s going to cost money for sure but I wouldn’t be able to give a guess as to how much without seeing it and asking the seller a bunch of questions. Does it come with the hummer steps? They are worth a lot generally.
Beautiful geometry on this setup... I love the flipped sway bar. Would you mind giving a complete breakdown on the components you have in your front end lift?
@@modificationnation73 I’m buying one soon what should I do to get your same set up? Thank you in advance. I was thinking about 6 inch lift with 22 14s on 37 14 40.
Great Video. Hi Guys, im thinking of buying a 2006 H2 SUT it has 188,000 on it but looks awesome, the guy is asking $17,500. if anything needed fixing he brought it in and had a mechanic fix it. does it sound like a good deal. in in Minnesota and the guy undercoated it each year. Really looks nice. any advice?
Disclaimer… I’m not a mechanic, I’m an enthusiast. If it was me, however, I would make sure the frame and brake lines are good. The undercoating can trap moisture and cause rust. I don’t undercoat any of my cars. Also, I would be careful if the radiator has not been replaced since they have a tendency to rupture and the trans fluid and coolant mixes causing the trans to fry. I’d make sure the transfer case shifted to low 4x4 and back (shift motors always go out). With 188k on the clock I would personally feel like it was a bit of a gamble. The engine and trans will need some love (replacement) sooner or later… as well as the difs and CV’s. Just my 2cents. Thanks for watching and let me know if you have anymore questions.
The gaskets on the roof lamps go bad after a while and allow water to creep in which will collect in your floor pan and soak your carpet. Easy fix with silicone(like I did mine) or just buy new lamp bodies(not expensive at all). Overall they are good trucks. People rag on em for no reason really. Simply put,it's a machine like any other vehicle and shit is gonna go out and need replacing. I've had mine(2003) since 2018 and probably have $2,500 in repair work in it. I turn wrenches so I saved a lot on parts and labor. A lil over 198,000 miles on it and I'd drive it to anywhere.
hello nice interesting ride - can you provide the approximate build costs (vehicle cost, modification costs, total cost etcetera) and approximate time spent on build - also how noticeable was the change in performance versus the original purchased vehicle - also have you had it weighed or can you approximate the difference in weight removed during build versus weight added during build for modifications - lastly where in florida? - thanks
Man, I’m not sure the total cost or the total time. I work on my stuff here and there and don’t keep a running tally of time/cost. The performance is a LOT better than a stock l98 c4. I haven’t weighed it but I plan to sometime soon. I used mild steel for the cage and haven’t switched to coil overs yet. If it had coil overs and a Molly cage you could save a lot more weight.
@@modificationnation73 how ma t hours into the project? I have been building a 240 Volvo wagon with a 5.3 LS swap for 3 years… motivation is low on the project as other stuff has come up along the way.
@@1620GarageAndFarm I’m not sure how many hours. I just worked on it here and there. I really enjoy working on and building cars so it was not hard for me to complete it. I do, however, have to be excited about the car and the final product. If not, I don’t start the project.
Nope. I always wave at them and I get a lot of thumbs up. Cops have asked me questions and said it’s cool. Actually had a cop tell me I should make it 4x4. I do live in FL so cops here are a little different than other areas I would imagine.
Awesome ride bro, you really did mention almost all the stuff that break on H2s except for the most annoying one ! The automatic windows ! , rear passenger windows ! Front passenger window ! Driver window ( knock on wood still worka for me). And by window I mean the whole thing, window motor, regulator etc... Cheers !!
How were you able to flip the Tie rod ends to the top of the knuckle without damaging them? I spoke to Kryptonite who stated they are Only designed to be mounted from the Bottom. This is an H2, Correct?
@@labowie54gb Derale 13700 Electra-Cool. You have to run AN lines. The cooler will NOT hook up to the stock connections/tubes. Also, you will need to run power to the fans for the coolers. I used a separate fuse block for the fans and other accessories.
I would go with CV axel shafts from Autozone/Advance, etc. that have a lifetime warranty. I assume you are asking about the front and not the rear axels.
