Just a thought for you . I see just sievert bee keeper that runs a extra ground wire between each hot wire because of all the hair on the bears to help to make sure the bears touch a hot wire and a ground . Mostly on land that doesn’t have a lot of rain an having moisture in the ground so you can get a good ground to the bear . I am getting ready to do three of my bee yards . What is your thoughts on adding the extra ground wires . Thanks
Well, that's what happens when you go through your hive during a cloudy overcast day while it's probably been raining or at night. I also suggest getting a more docile bread of honey bee if you hate getting stung that much, or take up swimming instead.
Very informative information. You were talking maybe adding a ground wire in between your hot wire I would highly highly highly recommend that for the reason you talked about where a animal does not always get a ground by just standing there. That is very true an I recommend it in all electric fences . Also if you don’t mind I would like to add one more thing . When setting up your yard always make your yard bigger than you think you may need because you may add hives which you talking about but the other thing is make it bigger so you have a lot of room to WORK YOUR HIVES . Like when you are pulling supers you need more room an just different reason you need more room all around your hives say a hand truck , a trailer, lawn mower. So just keep things like that on your mind. We always do things an look back later on an say why did I not do this or that . I hope you have a great season. Thanks
Thanks for the comments. I have not added the ground wire but I also have not had an intrusion since setting up the fence. I once watched a bear walk up the fence, turn and walk away so I assume it had been zapped before.
Congrats on a well made video. I am new at beekeeping and will be setting up my bees and an electric fence this upcoming spring. You have been an immense help and I want to take this moment to thank you on a well made instructional video.
Great video. I've just seen a bear 2 days ago walk by my hives so it's time to put up a fence. I've been lucky so far and I don't need my luck to run out. Thanks
Holly cow buddy, how many bees stung you on the face in that photo? You look like you went 20 rounds with Mike Tyson. I recently started keeping bees, but I had no idea a sting on the face was that bad.
this was very helpful thank you. I got a smoker from Amazon as a brand new prospective bee keeper and I wasn't sure what the plate was inside. thanks to you I now know it's the stand that keeps the fuel above the air intake once I unfolded the feet.
Great video. Your video was the best educational video about setting up an electric fence I've seen. This is my first year in beekeeping and this video will help me to protect my hives from bears. Thanks again for all of your work.
Going to start this spring. Appreciate the information. Girlfriend just purchased me a 5 session class from a local keeper for my birthday today. Class starts in February. Going to start buying gear now. Getting ready to retire!
Class from a local beekeeper can be a great way to go. We started that way and got our first bees from the instructor and he gave us guidance in our first couple of years. We've got a series of articles on our website that you may find helpful. www.beekeepingfornewbies.com/how-to-start-beekeeping/
Thanks....glad you liked it. The energizer in the video is underpowered as I mentioned. You can find options on our website at www.beekeepingfornewbies.com/electric-fence-chargers-energizers/ The Parmak is Solar Pak 12 is very popular. Other items are on our site at www.beekeepingfornewbies.com/electric-fence-chargers-energizers/ We got wood posts at Tractor Supply. I think T posts came from Lowes. Aluminum wire is also available at Tractor Supply or Amazon.
Just the other day I watched a bear walk into our barn on one end and come out the other side. It completely ignored our beeyard which tells me this bear has probably been zapped by the fence.
This method has become my "go to" method for feeding sugar syrup. I rest the bags on top of a queen excluder so the bees can move freely on top of the frames. I also use a 3 inch spacer to allow room for the bag under the top cover. I wanted to ask, has anyone used this to feed honey back to the bees?
Welche Bienenrasse wird hauptsächlich bei verwendet ???...besser gesagt welche Rasse hat bei euch in der Gegend die besten Voraussetzung....? Gruss aus Deutschland ...gute Arbeit !!
I will like to make a suggestion. Have you considered using a flip open housing cover over the on / off switch? It would be a pity if that snooping bear accidentally flipped the switch off.
Thanks. I left them in the trap a little longer than originally planned but turned out to be perfect. They drew out 4 full frames and with great brood pattern, some pollen and nectar. Got them before they started building comb in odd places. Unfortunately didn't have time to film the transfer but I have another one to move shortly.
@@beekeepingfornewbies9442 I purchased 5 swarm traps from a Cub Scout group that made and sold traps to make $$ for summer camp. They hold 6 deep frames and have 6 inches below that. The entrance hole has a standard metal entrance disk. I only caught 1 swarm and it was my own bees.
Thanks for watching. I plan to move it in about 2 weeks. Hopefully, the queen will be laying eggs and they'll have open brood. Having open brood it is less likely they will abscond after I move them. Since there are frames only in the top half of the box, I don't want to leave them too long or they may start drawing comb on the bottoms of the frames that I have to deal with.
You mentioned this, but your energizer is way underpowered for deterring bears. You need at least the minimum joules - which is easiest to remember as being at least 1 joule. The Parmak Solar 12 is 1.2 joules and reasonably priced.
Yes...thanks. It does need upgrading. The Parmak is one of two properly sized, solar energizers listed on our website. The energizer I had before this one was even less powerful but somehow did the job. Maybe we have wimpy bears here. :)
@@timothymcdonald2505 - Bear managers have set guidelines. fwp.mt.gov/binaries/content/assets/fwp/conservation/wildlife-reports/bears/mfwp_electric-fencing-guide_v4.0.pdf
Can't argue with you on that. When I originally posted this video it was on my personal site where I was able to use copyrighted music (though one got cut off when permissions changed). Maybe you'd like this version better. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-X_yKdYDVLfA.html
Hello Sir i wonder what type of bees do you have if you can please reply bcs i just started with beekeeping and my finall part is to buy bees thank you
Hi. I have had various kinds of bees, Italians, Saskatraz and Carniolans. The package installed in this video is no particular race...just "northern bees" I got from BetterBee.com. The best bees we've ever had were ones we got from a local beekeeper. If you can, get local bees as they are more likely to be genetically adapted to your climate. There are 2 articles on our website discussing where to get bees: www.beekeepingfornewbies.com/where-to-get-bees/ and www.beekeepingfornewbies.com/what-kind-of-bees-to-buy/ Welcome to beekeeping!
Hi...sorry just noticed your comment. Depends on which comb you are referencing. The dark comb shown at 1:52 is brood comb. Judging by the uniform size, I'd say worker comb. Drone comb is easier to spot when the larva is inside. You can spot drone cells by the way the stick out as shown in the image here: www.beekeepingfornewbies.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/Capped-drone-2.jpg The white comb shown at 3:01 is from the honey super so this is for nectar then honey. No brood expected in there.
Shouldn’t the mesh side of the queen cage be facing towards the bottom of the brood box? I’m not sure how the the bees can feed the queen if the mesh is pushed into a frame? I’m confused.
Sorry for not replying sooner. Yes, the mesh is facing out from the frame. Once the frame is lowered into the box, there is room for the workers to feed the queen through the cage. On the plastic frame shown here you could face the mesh up or down also for access.
Thanks Doug. Glad you found it helpful You can also check our blog on the topic with similar info www.beekeepingfornewbies.com/bears-bees-electric-fence/
Well done. I think you missed a queen excluder ($3 - $10 plastic or metal). Although some don't use them it's nice to keep the queen from laying in the honey super. Grass or leaves can be used as a brush too and they are typically free. Just use some that are soft (typically green). The jacket I use is the ventilated 3 layer one from foxhound.com it's also available on amazon. What makes it so nice aside from the ventilation is it's longer than the others so it doesn't ride up in the back exposing your lower back when you bend over or reach for something. But it does run just over $100 by itself. I run hot so I wear shorts all year. To cover my legs I use mosquito pants that are $10 - $15 on eBay. Mosquitoes eat me alive otherwise and they keep my legs protected while working with the bees as well at least so far so good. It's like window screen made into baggy pants. They may look funny but you would be surprised how many people want to know where to get them once they find out how well they work especially for the mosquitoes. P.S. Love the repurposed bed frame for a hive stand.
Thanks. Good point. We tried queen excluders early on but found that it slowed workers from getting into the supers so we stopped using it. We've had little issue with the queen laying in supers. I also left it out because we recommend not taking any honey in the first year. In that case it's not needed either. But again, thanks for the feedback. P.S. My wife wanted the beeyard to look "pretty".
