Hello, does anybody have an issue with the light bulb that is part of the block from the tailgate being change here? my light bulb is not working anymore and impossible et remove it, I don't want to change the whole block just for a light bulb, does anybody have an idea? Thanks in advance
I always have a BMW Genuine ALARM With everything installed by a specialist. I don’t use aftermarket only the remote starter one button and that’s it 😮 but it’s a cool video you did.
A question I have is, is there any calibration or alteration to the clutch pedal, I’ve got size 11/12 UK sized shoes and my clutch foot catch’s the pedal when I want to use it so I end up having to retract my foot towards the seat to get to the pedal
The best product I've ever found for rust is Sparex No. 2 for Steel, its used in Zinc plating process to remove rust but it works amazing on these kinds of projects. I've just done the trunk in my 99 subaru, wipe a bit of it on the rust on a rag, wait 30 seconds, wire wheel the area and you literally see the rust melt away. End result is ultra bright clean steel
If you remove the rust, apply Hydrate 80, wait a few hours and apply epoxy primer, will the primer hold up well on hydrate 80? Or will the primer peel off? And is it reasonable to apply zinc in bolognichik + epoxy primer + tikkurila temadur 20 on hydrate 80? Or will zinc be unnecessary?
I haven’t had any issues with the primer peeling with hydrate 80, so I’d say it’s pretty safe. I don’t have any experience with applying zinc etc on hydrate 80 so I can’t comment on that. But as I say, I haven’t had any problems with hydrate 80 & primer combo and I’ve been using it for almost everything I’m restored so far
I know this is 5 years late, but the shocks weren't (most likely) leaking. You're supposed to put a small amount of oil (around 50ml) in the shock tower, the idea is to help heat transfer between shock and shock tower. If you don't believe me you can look in the Bentley manual, they tell you the right amount of oil to use.
To clarify, Ive did the upgrade, changed the squib and even coded the MFSW option in the car and I don’t get buttons lighting up. You have to complete the retrofit (with a cable and other parts) to make it work
Replace the seal on the hub, you have a spare one from the bearing that broke, I’d also look into trying to rectify the flat spot on the hub before installing the seal, would have to be careful as it’s cast so warm the area first and go steady! When pressing in bearings you have to make sure you are pressing it in straight and that there are no burrs on the for the new bearings to pick up on, or powder coat in the way etc, I always wipe a smear of grease on too, to help it slip in. Bearings shouldn’t require excessive force to press in, only to break away when removing old bearings, if your having to apply excess force on the press when installing new then something is wrong and it’s best to stop and look before you break something! Also make sure to remove any powder coat from the abs sensor mounting holes in the hubs or else they will never go in! The Brembo’s are a sod to do, pain to split and be prepared to helicoil the mounting holes lol. Keep at it, will soon be done! 👍🏻
All noted for when I tackle the rest. Definitely a lesson learnt, I need to be a more careful moving forward as I can’t afford to be killing parts. Really not looking forward to the Brembo’s, I’ve had nothing but trouble with them over the years. I may have already helicoiled one of them, but I’m more worried about stripping the bleed nipples when it comes to bleeding them. I seem to remember doing that with little effort on the rear ones a while back. Thanks for the tips, getting there slowly
@@slothgarage I’ve bought HEL stainless steel bleed nipples, used them on the set we refurbished on my dad’s car and they are great, size is M10, 1mm pitch on the thread, total length 29mm, they don’t corrode to the aluminium of the callipers then, just have to go steady when nipping them up after bleeding off, just needs light nip up, it’s only fine aluminium thread. We had to use heat to break the corrosion between the steel bolts and alloy of the callipers to remove the 4 bolts connecting the 2 half’s and the Allen bolts on the pad slides.
Like a standard bleed nipple? Or a banjo one with integrated a nipple? I have a banjo one on one of the rears, which I thought is a good solution as you can bleed the caliper until your hearts content without worrying about stripping the threads.
@@slothgarage just a replacement but in stainless steel so it doesn’t corrode to the aluminium threads, I’ve not used the banjo type, will have to take a look!
Your killing it brother, as always ill give you as much time as I can to help you make this stunning car road worthy and flying down lanes again. Great video as always
Yes I would replace that seal ,but it's coming along nicely and myself I have the same problem I've changed loads of bits that the wheels need to be on the ground so I'm going jack up the rear first and but it on ramps then get another set of ramps on the front so I can get underneath.
Shame about the returning rust but that seems to be the way with older vehicles. I appreciate your detailed videos, they will help me tackle my son's rusty 2002 Subaru Impreza. I will definitely be getting some rust remover now that I've seen your test with the bolts and the tie rod. I've read that rust converters change iron oxide (red) to ferric tannate (black) which is a more stable form.
In the later videos, I start using a product called Bilt Hamber, hydrate-80. I can’t comment on the longevity of the product or whether it even works yet, but I’m really impressed with the finish. It starts off a milky blue colour, eventually turning a matte black. Tons of people on the forums swear by it, so it must be good. It’s about £20 for 500ml bottle, which sounds expensive, but I still have 1/4 bottle left and that’s after doing the majority of the car and various different parts. I would say the HG stuff is better suited for parts that can be fully submerged. Appreciate the comment 😁
It’s all coming together nicely now! Can’t beat putting all new and refurbished parts back on! Bit of petrol on a rag for wiping underseal overspray off.
Haha you’re getting there now though! I’m hopefully going to get some time over the next couple of days to do my welding jobs, then I can start building mine back up!
I've snapped that many bolts round the back end of my scooby I've had to deploy a new tactic. been cutting the floor inside the car cutting the threads of and drilling out from above, it's actually loads easier 🤣
I read quite a few nightmare stories like this while researching the torque specs for it all. My worst nightmare is snapping one of the welded nuts in the chassis
@@slothgarage Don't know if it's true but some people claim the torque should be 26 ft-lbs for all except the 2 big bolts (103 ft-lbs) for the front crossmember. Looks like you avoided stripping the holes though so who knows?
@jukeboxzero1 I’ve just found website with all the Impreza manuals: ken-gilbert.com/impreza-manuals I will admit, my original source for the torque specs does differ ever so slightly to the manual, but not enough to justify retorquing them. I’ll be sure to only refer to the manual moving forward so I’m not giving out wrong information.
@@slothgarage I was going to use the manual torque specs also before i saw a couple of videos claiming the rear crossmember bolt torque values in the manual are wrong (too high). Might just be a fairy tale. But it wouldn't be the first time the manual values were wrong. Lots of people (including me) have had to put thread inserts in their Brembo caliper mounting holes because the manual specifies 114 ft-lbs. while Brembo calls for 80 ft-lbs.
i use a concoction of Por15 1/3 + rubberized gravelGaurd 1/3 + black rust paint 1/3 all components MUST be thinnable with the same type of thinner,..make sure you do NOT mix incompatible thinners
I had the very same struggle with those power steering lines on the classic Impreza. Later realized you can disconnect them further up and slide them both through the subframe while still connected to the steering rack. Will hopefully help if you ever need to take it out again. Love the vids 💜
This worked for me but as soon as we had rain the whole headlight filled up again and it stopped working. Any tips on keeping the water out? These lights cost a fortune where I am. NZ. Thanks
Have you checked the whole unit to see if there’s any major holes/gaps anywhere that the water might be getting in? It might be worth putting silicone round the holes/gaps if you find anything obvious
Hi Jake, just sent you an email with some pics of where the connectors go. When it comes to reinstalling bolts in powder coated stuff I find it best to run a thread tap down first, I have a selection of decent quality ones from the likes of Presto and Apex (don’t buy Chinese rubbish), also like to put a bit of anti-seize on the bolt, will go in nicer and make it easier to remove in future should you need to!
Hi rich, I’ll check them out. I might have a thread tap kit laying around somewhere. I didn’t think about putting anti seize on the bolts, so I’ll get some ordered. Thanks for all the tips and advice 😅
Great video as always. I think it may be worth cleaning the rest of the thread hols in the subframe to make future work a tad easier. Ill attack it with a wire drill brush saturday if you want.
