On this channel I love working with old junk and bringing it back to its glory days. If you're a fellow gearhead or just want to learn, sit back and enjoy the show!
Not true. Warp rotors are brake pad deposits on your rotors. Brand new cars get warped rotors. Its has nothing to do with the pins slides at all. Proper bedding of brake pads prevents warped rotors
Look at all the experts coming out of the woodwork saying I'm wrong... Except I'm not. The information you provided was an ADDITIONAL thing that could cause rotor warpage FROM what I listed in the video. Nothing I said was wrong. Y'all folks are exhausting
Sometimes brake rotors can feel warped if you make a hard stop and heat transfers pad material from the pad to the rotor. Yes, they need to slide. You can do a bedding procedure to see if it's just material transfered from a hard stop or if the rotors are truly warped.
Now, I’m not quite sure how that would cause a rotor to warp out of true. I’ve always had solid rotors warp on heavy vehicles after coming out of mountain passes. You spend a lot of time on the brakes, heating them up, and then come to a stop on the rotor and a little bit of it out of true from the rest of it.
Because if your brakes fail to slide in and out of the calipers correctly from the caliper slides or when your pads slide on the metal, it causes high and low spots on the rotors causing uneven braking and then shaking in the tires and wheels when braking from the uneven applied pressure
Cool vehicle. They have visually been a favorite of mine. The poor MPG has certainly put me off, not to mention I don't think it would be a reliable daily. The only thing that keeps coming to me with the fuel issue is perhaps a collapsed fuel line? It is just a guess, but maybe try shooting some compressed air through the line and see if it is fully clear of debris. I just watched another revival video recently where there was an unseen inline fuel filter causing a restriction. Once they cut it out the vehicle ran much better.
All coming in part two. Still currently trying to solve it still. Part of me is thinking that fuel pump is junk, the other part thinking it's a collapsed line, although most of it is actually hard line that runs up to the tank so
All very good. A 3rd thing though. Lateral runout, you want it below .002 inches preferably below .001. 90% of the time it is just rust between the rotor and hub that puts it out too. Big lateral runout will turn into shakin' brakes within a few 1000 miles EVERY time. It's well worth the time to get both the hub and mating surface of the rotor shiny clean.
Correct me if I'm wrong...that looks like an ATE caliper. ATE says not to grease those pins...only lubricate the caliper bracket (part which the brake pad slides on to). Recommendation is to replace the bushing and pins at around 80-100k km. TBH I did have good results with silicone spray (find something which can withstand high temp) on the pins (very light greasing). The bushings are supposed to be made out of EPDM..hence no need for extra lubrication (according to ATE).
A lot of it has to do with peoples driving habits. They want to speed and break hard at the last moment and get the brakes red hot with a heavy vehicle, and then hold them against the rotor in one spot at the light that brings on all the problems you’re addressing.
I wish people would stop using the word "Warped" when the Disc is not warped at all. The "Blueing" of the Disc due to higher temperatures creates uneven hardness. As the Disc wears, the hard areas don't wear at the same rate as the rest of the Disc. This creates an uneven surface that can cause brake pulsation. In NO WAY is the Disc "Warped". It has an uneven surface yes, but it is not warped. How you came to the conclusion that sticking slider pins could "warp" a Disc is beyond me. Sticking slider pins would cause uneven pad wear, and that's all. This idea of Discs warping has become an urban legend all because of the misunderstanding of what the word "Warped" actually means. This is one of those occasions when a dictionary would really help more than a workshop manual. A "Blue Spot" in a Disc can even be caused by faulty manufacture which may not reveal itself for 5.000 miles because it may take that long to wear the rest of the surface around the Blue Spot leaving it as a high point. The owner then thinks the disc has "Warped" due to high braking temperatures. Discs cannot warp, they would crack under pressure even when glowing red hot, because they are cast steel, not mild steel. If you honestly believe you can bend cast steel even when glowing red hot, I'm afraid you need to think again. "Warped' Discs are an urban myth spread about by people who have never looked at the definition of the word, but repeat what they hear. It is not possible to warp a cast steel Disc, if it was, the manufacturers would be able to make them without a blast furnace saving themselves Millions a year. Cast steel only starts to soften at 1,300 degrees Celsius, good luck creating that kind of heat with a set of brakes. No doubt the myth will continue until people bother to pick up a dictionary. I have no idea what happened to grown men and physics, I can only conclude that their Fathers earned too much money.
If you use the hardware (like you're supposed to) and you have rust build up underneath on the bracket side, the hardware creates an additional clearance issue which needs to still be ground down. You must not work with rusty vehicles in the salt belt
I just subscribed and the paint looked good. The only thing that will cause me to unsubscribe is language. And I did not hear a bad word when I watched this video. Thanks for that.
Foul language is part of who I am as a Marine, so brace yourself in future videos. It's how I talk and I prefer no censorship with the exception of not saying the "f" word because of demonitization🤷🏻♂️
I am contemplating buying one that looks like yours. No glass, engine, trans etc. I sold my 69 SS 396 in 1994 (bad move). I would want to do a budget build as well.
Snag it up while you can. The prices on these cars just keeps going higher and higher...it's kind of insane actually. 70 prices are absolutely bonkers.
I do it a lot. It's fine. The inner part of the brake hose is either crushed or it isn't so letting it hang really isn't going to do any damage to it if it's a lighter caliper. Now for my Duramax, yeah I'm gonna hold it up with a zip tie.
You know you can actually put the door in place without the hinges ,as long as you have the locking in place ! Then add the hinges easier to adjust and take off from there ,I have found one man job !!!
Great job! Not in one day but at least in ONE VIDEO, still counts as success. I like the old school big blocks in these Chevelles, PURE fun after the agony of surgery...🐢to 🐇= 🚔
Realistically the process was like 25 hours of fiddling around. The oil pan hang up screwed us for the biggest portion of it. Should be a good runner once I tie into plumbing everything up so she'll run with no problems in the Chevelle🤘🏼
im a driveway car worker and have to use sheets of plywood, to move the engine puller around ( no cement type ). ratty Nova, Camaro and a old C10 keep me busy. keep building! peace
The surface of rotors can warp from too much heat if your pads are sticking. Warping can mean being uneven, it's also a term most searched which is why its in the title of the video
Yes, there is. I have one on my car. You can us a dial indicator to measure it, turning it by hand. Also, with both front wheels off the ground, tires and wheels off, start the engine, put it in drive, then look at the discs as they're turning. (also check the bearing hub, which may have been bent, if someone used a hydraulic press on one side, pressing in a bearing, causing it to bend)
It definitely helps with heat dissipation as well as brake dust removal from the rotors. Hope that helps. Biggest thing when it's all apart is making sure those pads move freely in the caliper with zero resistance and they should wear evenly. You CAN warp drilled/slotted rotors, although less likely. Just make sure everything is free and lubed up and they'll be okay. Something I didn't mention is the rubber lines for the brakes. Those go bad in a short amount of time, so if your rig is over 15 years old just replace them while you're in there. If they squeeze shut, it'll keep brake pressure on and cause warping too!
You hit the nail on the head man! I had a shop years ago replace my rotors at least 5 times in row and like clockwork they would keep warping over and over; they would just shrug their shoulders when it happened. I finally tackled the job myself with really nice components and made sure the caliper slide pins were as free as possible. The one thing I overlooked was making sure the pad ears could slide freely. Too much corrosion build up in those areas and I didn’t take that seriously. Low and behold, things warped again. Still dealing with this issue today but I’m thinking it might also be because my two piston calipers aren’t applying even pressure along with this issue. I’ve just been dealing with this issue for so long I kind of gave up and just deal with it, probably not the safest conclusion but I’ve wasted so much money on this BS as it is.
@@LeFrench307 finally figured out it’s because of my wheel stub axle. It’s worn on the top and bottom and that is why no matter how many times I’ve replaced my tapered wheel bearings I still get play at the 12 and 6 o’clock position of the wheel when rocking back and forth. Because of the nature of my hub and bearing sub assembly this in turn warps the rotors because of excess play.
What are those steel shimsyou speak of called to search online for and/or do you know of whom to buy from my friend! Outstanding educational vid! God bless my friend.
it’s the brake hardware and and extra tip is to take some copper anti seize and rub it on the outer edges of the hardware where the edges of the brake pad backing meets the hardware this will allow the brake pad to slide smoothly
He drove that truck to White Oak in the winter one day to visit my grandmother, when there was no snow in White Oak. But Meadville had snow and his bed was full. I sat in that truck throwing snow balls till it was empty!
That's a loaded question. If by some miracle it doesn't have any wrecks on it and all body panels are straight, to do a top shelf paint job on that would probably be something like 4k I'm sure. Diving into it if anything is out of whack or needs body worked (which it likely will need, they all do) it's a metric ton of hours and could be closer to a 15k paint job depending on how crazy we're getting into it. Price quoting is a dicey game because you never know how those panels look underneath unless the customer has it already sandblasted at the start and we can see all the panels clearly.
