Hi @yunuszenichowski thank you for making this. I believe I am going to have few days of sleepless night about thinking what exactly CCD sensor you used to make 400+mp sensor. I love taking long exposure photographs on my 8mp wide angle camera and later manipulate those pictures. I see extremely amazing potential in such camera to create experimental long exposure photographs. Would you be up to help me with your build guid, sensors and software? If I have missed on your build blog on Hack-A-Day or something. Please do let me know. Love from India and Genuinely appreciate your other work as well. Have a great day ahead.
Thank you so much! The resolution is this high, because it is a linear sensor, moving along some axis. This effectively results in an image of size sensor-pixel-count^2 or more, depending on how far the sensor moves. I was using the hardware from an Epson v37 scanner. I would advise against building one, if you don't really want to. The information provided in the video and the 3d model, is absolutely not sufficient to quickly build one. You would have to figure out most things on your own. I sadly didn't really finish the project, which is why there is no tutorial or anything. With a tutorial, it would be very easy to build one :/
@@yunuszenichowski thank you for your reply! Now I understand the megapixel part. This camera genuinely have great potential to take great experimental pictures, if printed can be sold as artworks ha ha. I am kidding. But if you would like to take back and work on this project. I am up for helping you out with this project. Anyhow I can do it. But I would love to collaborate with you if you feel comfortable.
@@TheHitesh74 The reason I didn't continue to work on the scanner camera idea is that there is a huge bottleneck for how good and especially practical/usable the camera can be, due to the fact that it is basically an off the shelf scanner, packaged in a new enclosure with some hacks. For example, you have to keep a laptop attached, since it is still just a scanner. Originally, I was interested in building a scanner camera from scratch, even designing the circuit boards, but then I realized how unattainable that goal was with the time I was willing to spend on it. So I just skipped that idea. If you are by any chance a high speed circuit designer, then I would love to collaborate :) Designing just a slightly refined scanner camera that is again based on some consumer scanner does not really interest me.
I thought about modifying a flat xray sensor panel for visible light. It would allow non scanning snapshots. But i am not too sure about exposure time.
May I ask you the width of the sensor pcb? I am designing a similar scanner back, but having difficulty in finding whether it is 12cm or 13cm. Thank you in advance.
I don't know if you still read comments on this video, but you could drastically improve the contrast of the picture, if you would flock out the inside of your projector lense. They are very reflective but if you would use something like black 3.0 or other light absorber inside the lense, you would stop bouncing light in the lense and improve picture quality.
I have printed and assembled your design. However I’m running into a bit of an issue with the gear you used to drive the scanner. It doesn’t grab onto the belt nor does it sit firmly in the mount you made. Did you encounter this issue and how did you resolve it?
I tried to express clearly that it's not a finished model. There need to be 2 small bearings in the slit, and the gear has to be printed with a 0.2 mm nozzle. It's also extremely important to reinforce the gear shaft with a m3 screw. There should already be space for a threaded insert. I never tried to print the gear with a normal-sized nozzle, so it's nice to know that the smaller nozzle was actually necessary. I am sorry for causing trouble like that. If you have more questions/problems, you can contact me via email, y.zenichowski@gmail.com
@@yunuszenichowski yeah I understood that the design wasn’t finished but I’ve managed to figure out of modify almost everything else. I appreciate the help. I will print the gear with a .2mm nozzle. Do happen to know the part code for the bearing you used? I will email you if I have any further questions thanks!!
@@will3346 I sadly can't give you any hint at the "right" bearings, because I would have to disassemble my camera to find out, just pick whatever fits. I used 2 to increase the vertical contact area with the shaft. There also is a major design flaw with the model that I only fixed after the video, the sensor has to be turned by 180º otherwise the image is mirrored and the color channels misaligned. Anyway, I am really happy that the video could inspire others to build one as well! That's awesome!
@@yunuszenichowski by pure coincidence I have already rotated the sensor by 180 degrees. However as I’m using a slightly different sensor from a V200 I’ll have to play around with it after assembly.
Hi, thank you! What exactly do you mean? The 50x refers to the video speedup compared to the original realtime/simulation and rendering speed. It's rendered using a fast volume rendering technique.
Hello, okey, so you have recorded the simulation with some program and played it back at 50 x. On the other hand, could you share what fast volume rendering technique have you used, indicating paper or some technical document? I am very interested in volume rendering Thanks
@@alejandrol9358 Sure! This resource was really helpful: subscription.packtpub.com/book/game-development/9781788296724/1/ch01lvl1sec08/7-gpu-based-volume-rendering-techniques Later I hacked together a very basic and slower ray based volume renderer, but it handles high transparency at high resolution better. The mushiness In the video is because of that transparency problem.
What if you spun the sensor like in a Virtoal Boy or like the lighthouses for VR? I suppose that would make it so you have to put the projector lens way forward and project the image onto something flat it could scan over... or do some serious correction in software?
At least reduce the F music in the background so we can understand your words abiye this nice project . Dislike because of the music , no way to continue watching
Hey great project - could you share more detail on how you controlled the intensity of the light source as well as how you turned it off during the scan? Attempting a build myself and have useful images but want to push it to have adjustment in the light source intensity and to turn the light source off many thanks!
I had implemented a mechanism that controls the light using a diy limit switch and potentiometer (I believe 0-50k ohm). There should be some information about the details in the comments already.
Also die BQ und das Rauschen ist doch viel zu hoch, das Händeln sicher nicht einfach und nur für sich nicht bewegende Motive geeignet , kaum für die Zukunft geeignet . Eine digitale Scankamera gab es schon einmal von Carl Zeiss, 150 mp und mehrere Sekunden dauerte der Scan, natürlich nicht für Natur geeignet, Repro Dokumente und Gemälde sicher seh gut.
Yes, linear sensors have an enormous scaling advantage. They only require the square root of pixels of an area sensor for the equivalent resolution. So it's extremely cheap to go high in resolution. Obviously there is a price to be paid though.
@@yunuszenichowski Okay then, I was just asking because back in the day I looked into film scanning and was told that most scanners can't practically do more than about 16mp per 35mm frame and after that it's just fake upscaling.
@@fandyus4125 most scanners are designed for A4 paper, which is about 72 times larger than 35mm film, so the resolution of the scanner would have to be over a gigapixel to achieve 16mp film scans.
Can you share a little bit more about sourcing scanner? What should i look for? Will this work only with standalone flatbed scanners? Does backlight type matter? Are You capturing picture with laptop or with android over otg cable? Are all scanners ccd or should I avoid some types?
is there a followup to this this project? i wanna know more about the build process, can you please make a video detailing the building and hardware + software optimisation of the camera?
The camera may be cheap but a lens that can resolve more than 8 megapixels is quite unusually expensive. When I graduated to 4K cameras I found very few lenses could even resolve the full resolution of 4K.
Actually have a sketch of that :) The main problem is the required size for the mirror. I wasn't aware of concave lenses, but with normal ones you would also get a weird focal effect.
Take a picture of anything moving and it's gonna be all blur. The pictures outside had to be taken with a regular camera. Those clllllioooouuuudsddss would've been bluuuuuuyrrerrrrr
