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The Aussie Viking
The Aussie Viking
The Aussie Viking
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AD4 PRO Unboxing
6:55
Год назад
AD4 improved cooling duct
0:23
Год назад
Lighting 3D plastic models
2:57
2 года назад
AD4 feeder clean
2:55
2 года назад
Canal Rocks overhead view.
0:53
4 года назад
Canal Rocks from the air.
1:07
4 года назад
Canal Rocks 2
0:57
4 года назад
antonov an-225 mriya Take off
2:27
5 лет назад
speed test with instrumentation
2:52
5 лет назад
F5000
0:54
6 лет назад
Tesla
0:44
6 лет назад
McMinniville flight final
3:32
7 лет назад
Karaakin Black Cockatoo Sanctuary
1:32
7 лет назад
Ayers Rock sunset
2:10
8 лет назад
Dawn Princess Ice Carving
11:26
8 лет назад
Комментарии
@adalinehoernemann8512
@adalinehoernemann8512 Год назад
*PromoSM* 🤘
@theaussieviking8555
@theaussieviking8555 Год назад
As per my earlier reply below: The length of the video was too long to upload purely to the Flashforge Official User Group page on FB. Hence having to use RU-vid and a link. Whilst I could have locked it down to just that page, there is a demand out there to be shown any differences, which is what I did. It wasn't done for any financial or pecuniary reward as the Moderators (4 of us) are all volunteers. It was done to prevent relentless answering of the same questions time after time in that group. Video's are an effective way of solving that. It serves that purpose. And that's all it was ever intended to do. I'm a moderator on the FF Official FB page. It was uploaded due to demand there, and not as a paid promotion of any kind. As I already have the AD4 it was to highlight any changes.
@jonweaver2215
@jonweaver2215 Год назад
😔 *Promo sm*
@theaussieviking8555
@theaussieviking8555 Год назад
I'm a moderator on the FF Official FB page. It was uploaded due to demand there, and not as a paid promotion of any kind. As I already have the AD4 it was to highlight any changes.
@theaussieviking8555
@theaussieviking8555 5 лет назад
Light & Sound for the Deluxe Tardis kit Parts - Jaycar Australia Cat No & Price) 1 x White 5mm Cree LED 45000mcd Round Clear - CAT.NO: ZD0290 - $3.95 1 x Blue 5mm LED Flashing 900mcd Round Diffused - CAT.NO: ZD0245 - $2.35 1 x Arduino Compatible Record and Playback Module - CAT.NO: XC4605 - $9.95 1 x 2 X AA Side by Side Battery Holder - CAT.NO: PH9202 - $1.25 1 x 57mm All Purpose Replacement Speaker - CAT.NO: AS3000 - $4.50 (It only just fits!) 1 x SPDT 250V 3A Miniature Micro Switch with Lever - CAT.NO: SM1038 - $4.95 Total cost for parts - $26.95 AUD. & 2 x penlight batties. Suitable small gauge wire, heat shrink tubing & double sided sticky tape. A soldering iron, hot glue gun & a dremel or tool to make a slot for the micro switch in the base. A small set of test wires with alligator clips if you have them. INSTRUCTIONS 1. It is easiest to do the sound chip first. Connect the sound chip to the 3 Volt power (takes 3 - 5 volts) or other power source. Place the unit near a speaker and find the sound that you want for your Tardis on the net. Press the “record” button on the PCB for up to 10 seconds, then remove power. 2. Connect the speaker up to the Sound board. Connect to power and check the recording you have made. It will play back automatically. Ensure that the recording is clear, and hasn’t been recorded too loud (distorted) or too quiet. 3. Take the assembled Tardis (including the LCD support installed), and prepare to install the LCD’s. Connect each directly to the battery pack to see which is which. The longer leg is the Positive. Fit the White LED upside down to the support bar so it will light the windows. Then solder the power leads to the wires to power. Ideally you have some telephone gauge wire available and solder the red wire to the long legs of BOTH LEDS. Then solder a black wire to the two shorter legs. There is enough length in the LED legs to make the Blue flashing LED fit into the light tower of the roof when fitted. Connect to your battery and check they both illuminate. 4. Make a small slot in the floor for the micro-switch so the lever protrudes underneath. Use the jumper clips to get the right legs. In the switch above, one end leg is the “Common” and the middle leg is the “NO” (Normally open). Rather than play round in Tinker Cad or the like I simply used the hot glue gun to mount in position so that when it is lifted the Tardis will switch on. 5. Solder the Positive of the Battery Holder to the Common lead of the Micro-switch. Then solder a red lead to the “NO” connection and also to the Red lead for the LED’s as well as the +ve for the Sound chip. Solder the black -ve lead to the -ve of the Sound chip and the black lead from your LED’s. Allow enough wire length to be able to open and change the Batteries when needed. Do not worry about any small amount of extra wire - it will be hidden inside. 6. You should now have the Base-plate functioning with the switch that will activate when you pick it up. All that is needed is the Double sided sticky tape. 7. Place a piece on the back of the speaker and stick to one wall. Then stick the sound chip to the opposite wall. There will be enough space in between for the battery to slip in. Then press the base on and impress your friends!
@theaussieviking8555
@theaussieviking8555 8 лет назад
And for those who ask. The overlaid Telemetry was done with "Race Render 3"