I'm the guy who has to have the latest and greatest (when it comes to Yamaha) so I would buy a 2025. I put so many miles on these that I'm to the point that I need to sell them after a year to avoid taking the big hit on resale. Saving money up front costs me when it comes to resell.
Went into my local dealership to ask about the differences between the different models, was basically told to go look it up. Then i was told the 2025s wouldnt be available till spring. What a load of BS.
Ed no it didn't and I wasn't expecting it to based on the map date. This was simply an exercise to show how to perform updates which we haven't seen yet as some were initially complaining there was no way (implying no process) to update them.
I've debated for month now between the Rmax4 and the KRX4. They both are rated as great, reliable machines and I keep changing my mind. Analysis paralysis! Now that I see the 2025 Rmax4 long wheel base, I'm very inclined towards it. I like the dump box, rear engine mounted, TURF MODE, larger back seat area, expected improved ride geometry, upgraded brakes, bigger axles. Not sure how big of a game changer the selectable power steering modes will be? What I LOVE most is they are about $1K - $1200 less MSRP. Seems crazy with all the new upgrades.
If your main goal is rock crawling then KRX4. If you want to do some work and haul some gear (but it can still crawl, just maybe not as good as the KRX4), then RMAX4 LW.
You could fasten some lexan to the inner tubular frame if you wanted to. It wouldn't hug the plastic frame perfectly but you would still be protected from the elements, especially if you used weatherstrip around your lexan.
I just did this and lost one of the small spacers down into the hole in the floor the seatbelt mounts to and it's gone. 😫 Also, mine came with an allen head screw for the mount in the front floor, not a hex head, not big deal. Problem is I went to tighten it, then saw the bracket bending. Then I realized it needs a spacer under it which did not come with the kit. But I found a larger nut that worked somewhat.
I've am trying to decide whether or not to buy a Wolverine x2 1000 xt-r, and am afraid of all this belt drive stuff. Videos of maintenance show that the seats and covers etc etc all have to be removed. It looks like a real pain to service. I have zero experience maintaining cvt transmissions, including snowmobiles, etc. This is all scaring me away a bit.
You can always let the dealer perform the service. RMAX2\X2 1000 is much easier to service as it doesn't require as many body panels to access the CVT like the 4 seaters. I've also had feedback from those with no CVT experience successfully doing it using my videos. If you're mechanically-inclined, you should have no issue. If you're not, simply have your dealership perform it.
There is a ton of misinformation circulating around Jaso MA/MA2 specification. Jaso is a Japanese friction specification, not a additive specification. And there is no guarentee that engine oils with or without this specification will be free of friction additives. I have personally witnessed Jaso MA/MA2 engine oils which contain molybdenum disulfide in large quantities. Long story short; engine oils without the Jaso rating can be just as safe if not safer to use with wet clutches or other friction plate clutches.
Yes it would. Same engine and transmission. Diffs may have different size bolts as both front and rear diffs are new parts, but the drain and fill procedure should be the same.
I also made a block-off which is the final part of the solution to heat migration in the cab: www.wolverineforums.com/threads/2019-yxz-1000r-radiator-cooling-analysis-and-free-heat-for-the-winter.37739/?post_id=442248#post-442248
@@MassiveOverkill went through there Saturday morning. I also didnt have my volume up when I started watching the first time and didnt hear you say Castle Creek.
Keep your eye on the screws that hold the handle you place ur hand on to tighten the filter into the locking position. Mine rattled loose twice actually had to go up a screw size to fix issue. Haven't really pushed my machine that hard my only problem I've had.
Well you can see in this video that rinsing it from the outside, no water passes through the media. so doing it from the inside, you'll have the same issue. I can see the concern about embedding dirt further into the media from washing it from the outside, but I don't believe that's an issue if you use gentle water pressure or seal off the ends and spin the filter while it's submersed.
