I am trying to create content about DIY repairs on different stuff. We will be repairing car heaters, stationary cooling for trucks but also later will be diving in home automation as an hobby and trying to solve problems that many faced but actually no real answers were found on-line.
Thanks! Fixed VW Crafter original D5WS with this method. Grinded hole with carbide burr as it seemed much safer way to me. I had intermid working blower. Tought first that it was blower motor as bearings were totally worn out from it, but new blower did not help even it definetly needed to be changed also.
Thanks for this, a helpful video for someone who hasn't fitted a door and frame like this before. I also fitted a Pertura door and frame, pretty similar to the one in the video, although the mitres on my frame were connected with screws and plastic plugs rather than the biscuits - to be honest I think I would have preferred biscuits, as it was quite tricky to get the mitres perfect with the screws. The Wolfcraft Pro Assembly Kit was very useful and very easy to use.
Bro i have issue right now. I have autoclima fresnco 3000 12v. Everything is working but it does not giving cool air. Whats the reason u think because of no gas? Or maybe low battery volts? Truck shows11v
As per Espar training only lockout code 12B can be erased with this strategy, unfortunately there's other lockout conditions such as fault code 11A which requires Easy Scan software to clear.
Thanks for sharing this. I had error code CPM-1001 Combustion fan. Signal too high" on my 2010 Volvo V50 which has CAN-controlled Eber D5WS. I also had bad soldering on my PCB but it didn't fix the problem and replaced the old fan. My problem got fixed when I detached the PCB from case and isolated the PCB with some electrical tape and not attaching the PCB screws. Then the grounding comes only via wire. Hope this info helps someone else.
Hello from Los Angeles! Thanks for this video. I’m planning to set up a relay for my system now. My assumption was that I would come out of the AC/DC power supply with two wires and not do anything with the AC side after that. Instead, I’ve been planning to use a DC to DC buck to convert to 5V. To supply the needed 5V DC to everything without having to touch any AC power. Is there a reason though however that I should consider using an additional AC /DC converter - buck as you have in this video? Thanks for this demonstration!
@@RND-USA Hello from Romania, the buck converter here is to power the esp and the relay after the AC from the big power supply is cut off. This already an old video so I hope you will use an esp32 instead of the one here.
@@DIYHelper ooh I think I missed the very end and will watch it againg but I’m guessing now you did that so you could save energy when the power supply is idle? How many watts does yours use up when on standby?
Brilliant job on obtaining a mitre! Couldn't you turn the tile upside down on the table saw and use a guide to make things easier tough? Assuming of course you don't require the full width/length of the tile. Fantastic finish, I'll be doin the same on a job for a customer, much better than using trim. Well done.
I have an even older D4L yellow rusty thing ive been trying to get working all day.. The fan comes on but i can get it to turn the pump on, i even replaced the pump but no luck
trebuie amorsat peretele ca sa nu mai suga apa din glet , eu lucrez cu ceresit de ani de zile si este cel mai bun glet , celelalte este pistol cu apa,se da ct 126 prima mana si la a doua se da ct 127 si va fi coala..
Nice pcb layout, and thx for the effort. I might order some pcb's too. Any decent ali options for some 230/5v for ceiling mounting them deep outlets, or would it be a firehazard trying this out?
I had the cl model with the easystart. It was on sale for half price. I loved it, used it the last few years on my daily driver Volkswagen. In winter here it can get so cold that a few nights a year i wanted to run it all night. I could not do that, the timer only let me go 2 hours. I just changed it out for the cs model. With the easystart pro. Not only do i now have the option for up to 12 hours or infinity just in the timer, but i can later if i want, use the s+ for other options. I think the cl was a pretty poorly implemented. If eberspacher had made a s+ input into the controller would have been fine, or let longer run times, i was perfectly happy with my heater, just hated the two hour limit.
I am a small fleet mechanic and we have about 10 of the original airtronic heaters , when a driver says it's not working it has only ever been a bad gasket for the cumbustion chamber. Simply disassemble clean and put in a new gasket. Recently I installed a new airtronic 3. I have not disassembled one yet, the wiring looks more difficult difficult being in one plug rather than each sensor and glow plug having there own plugs.
I am wanting to buy one for myself. I like the brushless motors, but looking at the design of them, I am leaning towards buying a 2 and avoiding the 3.
Thanks for the video. First time working on a diesel heater. Problems starling and white smoke. Cleaning the diffuser, plug and burn chamber made it work again. 😊
Un glet de valoare este... Gletul de ipsos tata ați înțeles... Dar.... Cine știe sa îl tragă pe pereți.... Asta pt cine știe, nu pentru toți meseriași de cartier 20-30 de ani pământești.... Ca pe unt... Se ia din butoiul de varza de 60 de litri👍👍👍👍
Thanks for the great video. I have a Hydronic D4W 12v (25 2096 05 00 00) but the control panel was not covered in the video. It is a Combitronic panel and the temperature up and down and enter buttons stopped working?? Can I use the Easy Start Timer as a replacement?
Combitrobic is developed by Eberspaecher UK and it has not really made it to Europe mainland. Looking at some diagrams these are more complex than simple controllers so you can't replace it with any controller shown in this video. It would be better for you just buy the pane as I seen it is a separate part from the controller itself.
Autocorrect strikes again, so according to the diagrams the system has a control panel which is just the buttons and display and a module which actually does the controlling. So probably you will need only the panel. Maybe ask butler technic or eberspacher direct, just these into Google.
Thanks so much for this, just what I was looking to do after I purchased both these sensors for an ESP project. I have used your file and ordered a handful via JLPCB. Appreciate your efforts and sharing this with the community.😃
If your using it with 3000w inverter and minimum 300ah of Lithium batteries, you need to add a soft start to dampen the LRA of 48.5a to something less than 24a. Looking at the wiring diagram it's clear from the wiring diagram that there is no soft start, the type that significantly dampens LRA rating. Otherwise the Lithium battery can't supply the huge compressor start in-rush current. I had to add a SoftStartRV to my Atmos to get it to work from my 13vDC Lithium battery/3000w system. The SoftStartRV did solve the compressor in-rush issue by cutting it in half. I don't understand why a soft start wouldn't be automatically incorporated to reduce the LRA to less than 24a for a real game changing RV air conditioner on 120vAC or 13vdc power systems alike.
Cool (or hot). My kit (not and Airtronic, but not a knock off either) came with an intake silencer. It's maybe a fraction smaller than the one you have here, iIt's not easy to tell and it also makes a big difference. I think it knocks down some of the combustion roar that comes back up the air path and also the noise from the blade tips. Intake piping is also useful as it reduces the chance of sucking up stuff into the heater. It also makes the heater less noisy for anyone else close by. Thanks for this!
