Hey I hope you read your comments. So I use a 12v to 48v UPCONVERTER from this company. It gives me 600w which I use to fast charge my Anker power station from the 300ah Lifepo4 trailer battery if needed. Problem is it gets HOT! I rigged up a small cooling fan to keep it cool. Or I just drop it in the ice chest. Lol, it's waterproof!!! What do you think? Any ideas on keeping it cool? You could make your breakfast on it.
Yes this is a known problem with these especially if it's running at 100% which it probably is due to the avaliable 100 to 150a from your battery. Besides beefing up the cooling by adding a larger heat sink and fan. See if you can A. Limit the output of your battery by its bms settings (if avaliable) or B. Limit the charge rate in the anker power station. Good luck. Lmk how it goes. Goal is to run the buck at about 80% max.. 480w
Since you are using 48v battery you could wire battery directly to the pv input if the pv input voltage range covers 48v. You can also purchase a cheap pure sign inverter for less that what u paid for that big converter and charge from AC.. much more efficient and probably faster. Inverter will manage heat much better.
Good review, i know you mentioned the hottest the it would go is 90 degrees that's actually room temperature, the unit itself is pushing out 120 degree heat. I have this same hybrid mini split, great unit both Winter and Summer. I originally purchased it for off-grid purposes, incase the grid goes down but find myself using it because its very efficient.
How would someone use these box to make a 24v Pack? Is there a BMS that would work for this? I currently have 24v hybrid and 6 12v 100ah batteries, would love to eventually switch to larger cell battery in a bow like these as it looks so much better.
You could put 2x 24v packs in the box. Just mount 2 separate bms wire to each terminal in parallel. Just order the box without a bms and get 2x jk 4-8s bms. I show the bms here. www.ebay.com/itm/284907203476?amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAAkDibR3vkhGZCwCdAX%2B8yNFa%2F2ZRo4GpQUl1MtM%2BSP3soTu3JpznKBqL9vt85k81vU3jaihCSg1pbNxQP0AO1NHkkmYPJjj7t8H7uZko2s9dizaaKgXCxGrT8rD86RPQXPWvLkjSsSfEpEUDx7FkTIjpxp%2FOj6Lf9pAfyb1FWVqH27ov%2FIEmqGvV6EEandFJSOg%3D%3D&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&campid=5338977860&customid=&toolid=20012&mkevt=1
No. The eg4 6000xp I mentioned at the end of the video can do 120/240 in a single unit. Link in description.. if that's what you mean.. do you need 2 units or will one work.. with these you need 2. Eg4 6000xp just 1. They are both stackable
@RVwithDD oh yes. They have to be able to communicate. Not all inverters do. Most all in one type do. Eg4 mpp grow watt .dye etc.. See video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-D_KLSrsMI3E.html
Hello Nate, great video, i just build my first Yixiang 48V DIY Battery Kit with 280Ah EVE cells, I found something strange..... Maybe this is interesting for everyone.!! While installing the battery I noticed something, All batteries were between 0.19mΩ and 0.20mΩ before I placed them in the DIY box and compressed them. But after i placed both PCB boards and before I wanted to connect the measuring wires, I wanted to check the IR again. Very strange, it surprised me a bit. the internal resistance was suddenly 0.30 mΩ on all 16 individual cells. Can you or someone else check that also on your battery? I thought I had placed too much compression on the cells, but that was not the case... as soon as I disassembled the PCB - A and PCB - B, and i measure again, the cells were 0.20mΩ again. Conclusion: probably inductive voltage?? metal over the batteries?
That is strange. Did you connect the bms ribbon cable, or did you simply screw down the pcb boards.. it could actually be the screws conducting current thru the case across the pcb traces. Be sure you isulate the screw heads with insulated washers. Take screws out and measure.
@@natesdiysolar hi Nate, only lay down the metal brackets and screw the 4 3mm bolts. But also If i lay them only on the battery and not connect the screws the IR increases to 0,31 mΩ.
Congratulations on reinventing electrical theory regarding current flow in a series circuit- or not! Of course the current flowing around a series circuit like these batteries will be the same at any and every point in the circuit. Take another look at your meter reading. The first reading is positive but when you move for the second reading it is negative because the current is flowing in a different direction through the meter. On a high quality meter the digits will be the same only the + or - will change. Your meter may have an offset (zero) adjustment that may need a tweak. Where you put the batteries in the series circuit will make no difference what so ever.
Thanks for the info. Don't you think resistance down the line would be additive, causing the current to be higher.. oftentimes, when you have multiple batteries in series, you will have balance issues . Meter can't be that off.
@@natesdiysolar Just turn the meter around on the same bit of cable and check. The meter can be influenced by other magnetic fields or cables carrying high DC current. Where the resistance is located in a series circuit makes no difference. IE it could be at the start or the end of the loop. The current flow will be constant and equal at every point in the loop.
I installed it but no drilling, solar panel is mounted on the roof rail, wires enter through the back lights. I am using lithium battery, Mppt charger, and super capacitors to start the Prado. I posted the video.
This will not cut off charging, it will keep pushing amps into battery and overheat and possibly damage the battery. Use $3 more and get PMW and attach it after the converter, the converter will increase the amps and PWM charge controller will control charging.
It will just equalize. It does not keep pushing. The voltage does not rise. At 13.8v, the current will be 0.0. At that point, it's just a battery maintainer.
This is not solar related, but this hotel was an iconic and historic part of Las Vegas. I used to go swimming there in the 90s, so I thought I would share.
That's odd.. if in the control section of the app you have charge and discharge turned on, it should discharge. are there any errors coming in the error screen. Send screen shots to my email please.
Hello great for the video! I had a question: I have 3 battery packs in 48 volts 280AH can we connect the 3 packs on the lynx? after that I must also power the 5MPPT smartsolar victron and go to the multiplus2 (8000VA) possible? thank laurent
If you need more than 4 connections, then you will need more than one bus bar.. you can connect to the Buspar or the extension tab that sticks outside of the chasis. 5 total.
Hello do you mean 4 connections per polarity? 4+ and 4- in total for the lynx power? i also need lynx distributor for my 48 volt battery pack? or can we just put lynx power for the battery pack and the mptt plus the multiplus? (too many maybe?)
@laurentsosson1739 yes 4x positive lugs and 4x negative lugs.. so the distributor has fuses so yes its meant for your devices or loads to connect to that.. the power In does not it just has a bus bar and is meant for batteries. 4 batteries and 4 loads respectively
You got the alarm because you give power of positive side before you finish all connection on the cells... That can damage the BMS... Next time finish assembly, and for the last one connect red line for positive terminal of the BMS...
Hey, im a noob but got enough sense to build one of these, im living on my property and do not have electricity until i get my solar up and running... I going to be using that eg4 xp6000 and one of these diy kits to get me going.. my question is, can i build it without balancing the cells?? I have seen some that say yes and some say no, that the cells will balance themselves. With no electricity im going to just have to build it and see, i guess.. but wonder what you thought. Glad i found your channel. Thanks
If by no electricity, you mean not using a plugin charger or other AC power source, then yes, you can. You can just use your solar to do it, no problem. It's just easier to do with a steady power source like a battery charger. Cells will balance themselves, but once you get to the higher voltage range, it could take a very long time.. key is not to charge to high.. 55.2 is perfect. Just use your solar and keep an eye on the cell voltages once you get past 3.40 per cell or average cell voltage. You can do a natural balance, not using electricity by placing cells in parallel, but to do a top balance, you need to charge the cells, and that requires power of some sort.. the cells come from the factory charged to about 40% only. catch 22, right.. that's why some say yes some say no.
Excellent video. I have been in touch with your contact, extremely helpful with all info. The problem I have is space, so could I put them in a vertical position against the wall?
I would not recommend it. The cells would apply a lot of pressure on the bottom cells due to weight. They do sell vertical boxes, and if you look at the cell orientation, you will see 4 rows of 4 cells stacked end to end on their sides to mitigate this.
Hello and congratulations again for your great video I had a question: can the JK-PB2A16S20P communicate easily with a victron multiplus II 5000VA? what equipment do you need special cable in addition? I'm trying to find out about the bms because as I have a large 24 volt 1300AH battery pack I would like it to work perfectly before investing in the BMS and the victron multiplus II! laurent
Hi. Unfortunately, I have not tried this myself, so I can not say. However, I have seen other videos where it was done via the venous os. Take a look at Andy's off grid garage . He has done a lot of work in this area and has a very nice website with all the cables and converters required. Thanks for watching. off-grid-garage.com/bms-communication/
2:30 Sorry for the dumb question, but you mention the wires being "upgraded" Upgraded from what to what? I absolutely love the info and totally appreciate the time you spend on bringing all this to us. Be safe😮
Hi. Appreciate the kind words. I'm referring to the wire size on the USB panel. Typically, they come with 18awg wires. The panel with the 4 modules/slots comes with 16awg, so you probably do not need to do anything for those. I upgraded the 18awg to 14 or 12awg.. can't remember.. on my web page I talk about the different USB modules and wire size under the USB panel options. Hope this helps www.natesdiysolar.com/projects/shtf-emergency-solar-power/
50mm² is suitable for 100A only!! Please be AWARE! The breaker specification is too high! The BMS can handle 200A The wiring can't. Weakest link will not be the fail safety, the breaker, the wiring is! PLEASE change the internal wiring to at least 70mm² if you handle huge loads, like charging an EZ.
I've bought 4 so far, and shooting for 20. I've seen full capacity from all 4 so far. The lowest being 103ah. I'd GLADLY pay shipping for the bare batties if you can safely ship them! I liked the testing done. Good to know the low voltage cutoff is set slightly low. I'll need to be careful not to drain them that low. I planning on "uncasing" the ones I have after a short test run. Will Prowse have good review so I pulled the trigger. Liked and subscribed, thanks for the information! I'm in the process of a build for myself, this will help people immensely!
Awesome. Lmk how 16 units work together. You might run into balancing issues.. not with these alone, but any battery, really. if so, you can hook up a battery balancer. I need to look up the rules for doing fair giveaways. I'm not sure if it's opened if it becomes an issue in shipping.. I have bought plenty of raw cells, but that's just cells, not hooked up to any bms. Thanks for watching.
If your inverter is not programmable, I have a cool way you can prevent over discharge of the battery. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-lcfnE7-maV8.html
@@natesdiysolar to save space. I am going to build an enclosure for them to keep the cell compression, as there's lots of wasted space in a group 31 case.
As i understand it ,If the input voltage to a lithium battery isn't correct , as in high enough, the bms is unable to balance the cells , as in balance charge , or as with led acid and AGM an equlizeation charge........ If this goes on long enough and the cells become drastically unbalanced the BMS will shut down the battery early....... something to be aware of as it can be a head scratcher and can leed to incorrect assumptions........so if you're useing a charge controller make sure its on the lithium setting and that its set voltage is actually correct for the lithium battery bms....... some of the cheaper charge controllers or older ones don't have a lithium setting but they sometimes have a USR setting which is a setting you can customize set for lithium ......im ol skool and lithium technology is a world away from ol skool....... 😉🙃😎 NZ
Yes, it depends on what voltage the bms balancer triggers and the type of balancer. Typically, 3.40 is where they are set.. in my experience in building batteries and 13.8v is 3.45 per cell. So you should hit balance level if you charge to 13.8. Good observation 👍 in my observation if you never charge above that zone and stay within the normalized voltage they are in fact very stable.. some balancer will trigger based on delta alone so in that case it's voltage agnostic
Thanks for the video. I wonder how wife (non-tech) friendly these diy battery boxes are. What I mean is if I am not around are they able to diagnose issues without a lot of volt meters and such? Thanks again for your video. I am deciding between server rack batteries and these DIY boxes. Cheap attracts me initially but maintainability will win the day. All the best from north Texas.
Lol my wife helps me install stuff sometimes.. actally with the touch screen is very easy to get the info you need. The Circuit Breaker is clearly labled.. I don't see any reason for difficulties over remote troubleshooting.
@@natesdiysolar you are probably right. I love making things too complicated which is why the question. In reality the solar panels and inverters/charge controllers are more likely to need the simplified diagnostics. Sounds like I need to customize a graphic display if one is not available. I do like the look and the design of the box. Thanks again for the video.
Hi, Nate I tryed to buy one of the custom dc to dc converters and I could not get it to go thru for me how did you get the link to work to buy one, when I get ready to buy one next time could you get me one and send it to me?
This is the link.. if it does not work email me and I'll send you their direct contact info. www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805802656119.html?gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt
Hi Nate,i built same thing, i used 1/0 cable from batteries to inverter, is that ok, also im using 2 12v 100ah ampertime batts to make 24v, is that enough (2 - 240 watt panels in series,( about 60 volts @ about 7 to 9.5 amps coming in) is that ok? Great channel, thanks for sharing.
Yea 1/0 is plenty large enoughf for 24v system. As far as the capacity and pv being enoughf that's totally dependent on your needs. But a good rule of thumb is to be able to charge your battery in a 5hr window and power your loads.. in winter you will produce fat less that in the summer.. do you have a shunt.. if not it's a good idea to install one.
I’m a bit confused. I tried your link to the product. I can place the order for the box but can’t figure out how to add the batteries to the cart, also the batteries I see don’t seem to be the same batteries you are using.
It’s robust yet inexpensive. My little van has a refrigerator & microwave With 2 lead acid batteries Under the hood. It’s been working months flawlessly, using your special converter. I just added a small fan For cooling, powered from the solar panel 😊 thank you ❤
I've got one. Just installed it last week. The sooner and longer it sees the minimum of 90v the cheaper it will be. Also.. Using a multimeter is one thing.. but you didn't mention or show the app. Yeah.. it's slow to respond.. and you can't use TURBO mode when on DC only. Hope they fix that. ALWAYS remember to use the AC limiter. 800w to 200w when turned on makes a difference. I replaced a Pioneer 9k with this one. I see no cooling or fam speed difference. Pretty dissapointed for that reason. Yes, it supposedly works with Alexa.. but isn't real easy to connect to it.
That one is a 150a... since I have 2 batteries in parallel, I should never see even close to that, so why not keep it low... once I add another battery, I'll probably change to a 100 or 125a.
If its a diy battery you could.. I would not try adding it to a sealed retail battery.. you would need the controller as well. I would suggest asking sfk this question telling them what battery you have.. but if it's a pre made retail battery it would be very difficult if at all possible.. if it is you might look at a heating bag. It's a bag you put the battery in to keep it warm.
Yes because the JK now has a new firmware update that fixes a lot of the problems but if you don't care about comms then either one works.. but only the v3 of seplos.. I like the display better on the jk over the seplos however.. don't get the v2 seplos it has a small balancer
