Thank you for sharing! I would love to create more plates and platters, but I have a problem with warping, and occasional cracks. It’s hard to manage the drying process in my hot, Texas garage! One of these days I’ll nail down a successful system. Trial and error…
Hi Don, when you let the pot dry a bit before adding new coils, is it just for a short amount of time, like less than an hour? Like just enough to barely stiffen up, not close to leather hard, right? And do you ever have issues with the base and lower coils drying out too much by the time you've finished the top? I'm never sure how careful I need to be about making sure all my clay is drying at the same rate. Thanks!
The amount of time between coils varies depending on the wetness of the clay and the temp and humidity in the studio. If it is drying to fast I sprits the piece with water. I try not to add coils so quickly that the bottom slumps. It is a mater of experience to learn when it is ready for another coil. I live in a very hot dry area so I have learned how to build here but where you live it could be completely different. It changes summer to winter here. Normally at 2 foot pot takes about one day.
I'm wanting to make the clear but my clay distributor offers 2 kinds of Neph Sy A270 and Neph Sy 400m which do I mix with the Gillespie Borate (since out of the original) or they have this new blend Gerstley Borate Blend (Laguna) THANK YOU FOR YOUR HELP!!!
The Laguna GB should be fine. Not sure about the two kinds of Nep Sy. Better ask your distributor what the difference is If one is finer I would go with that. Try a small batch see how it works.
Our kiln will only take about 15 inches. But as we are only hobby potters in the club. As such I cannot make anything a big. When I had my own studio then I could and did make such large platters and when I had my pottery table filled with stock then I was happy. I will use your systems to make smaller items. Love your videos
The homemade extruder is the best. My father made mine and I am still using it 40 years on. I have donated it to my Retirement village club. Unfortunately they do not use it, I must get back to using it as I have many other dies.You have re-awaken my mojo.Thank you.
Would you share the make of the China paint that you use, I see you use low fire clay but am confused where to get the China paint I am in Canada - your pieces are gorgeous
@@suesteele2716 it is Colorific porcelain they have a website that can answer your questions. It is just a tube of powdered China paint. I make an ink with it-2 parts gum Arabic, 1 part vinegar, and one part glycerin and as much powder as makes the consistency right. Takes experience to get that right and I always just estimate. I get it from Colorific porcelain -they used to be willoughbys
Thank you for sharing! It's nice to follow someone with much experience in the industry! I am not partial to slip casting, so this is up my alley. Looking forward to the next one!
So glad I found this! I think you had a video up about 3 or so years ago and I loved it but when i went back some time later it was gone. Thank you for showing how this is done! Keep up the great work.
This was great! I took your advise today about getting the small pieces into the reduction more quickly and your copper glaze got REALLY shiny ...so I must have been a good student and followed your advise! I''ll send you a photo! Thanks for the advise !
THANK YOU SO MUCH for sharing your process!! I've been thinking about making one as well and had trouble imagining how to tackle it. I also LOVE the sound the dice make as they go down your tower!!
I am sorry Maggie but I don't know where she gets those. I think she does buy the magic water. I make my own, by adding Darvon 7 to water. You can make a measuring tool as well by using a compass. I would try Amazon first to buy them.
👍Excellent video - thanks for posting One question - how do you achieve the 'orange sun' on the plate (the one used for the start image of the RU-vid video). I'm puzzled why there are no crackles going through this part of the image. Thanks again for taking the time to make and post the video - it is much appreciated
You are welcome. The orange is underglaze painted on when the bowl is green. There are fine cracks in it that you can't see in the photo. the underglaze and glaze are thicker there so it doesn't crack that much.
Thanks for this video! I have been thinking of using Terra Sig with underglazes, hadn’t thought to add stain to it. Do you need the additional clear glaze? Seems like the Terra sig would create a nice sheen on its own! Why are you using it, if you plan on clear glaze after? Thanks for your time in making this video!
