Are you new to collecting old radios? Would you like to learn to do your own restorations? Join us! We will take you step by step of setting up your own electronics lab and show you how to obtain affordable test equipment needed to do a decent job. We look forward to hearing from you!
Mike, I wish this series of videos were around when I rebuilt my DX-60B a few years ago. I have a stupid question, when you’re checking the values of resistors and capacitors, are you removing them to test or can they be done inline? 73 Lloyd - W1LBM
Just started watching your videos and find them extremely helpful as I learn about restoring old receivers. When referring to "rf" while you were discussing when to use film versus OX/OY type resistors, are you also including the rf part of receivers too (just curious as your example was a transmitter).
It would've added a lot to have examined the schematic with us viewers and explained where the new parts went, especially the rewired power cord, and other changes you have made.
I just repair an philips 90 RL 152 , with only a meter and another pocket radio , the only thing i regret is have not the RF Gen , and ST , because it take me long to figure the problem . Thanke u sir for vid
New Subscriber Here. Would You show and describe what test equipment you use? I didn't know how off the alignment had been. Can you explain if you do a SINAD or not and the reason to do or not to do?
I dont do SINAD level measurements on these old girls. I tune them to peak as best as possible. I have done a few videos on test gear, I will post a few here. But you should also view the S 76 restoration project if you are interested in SX 100 style operation. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-biYfpkCCLbg.htmlsi=wtU9qw5JA-5J67S7
Thank you for the Demonstration. I just purchased a Heathkit IT-12 and also have the signal generator. I never used the IT-12 before and this video showed me exactly how to use it. I searched all over RU-vid for a tutorial and found none. I happened to see this pop up on tube radio repair so I clicked on it. Then I saw you at the work bench with the IT-12 and signal generator and hoped you would demonstrate them and YOU DID!! Thank you!! I subscribed and will catch up on all of your videos.
@@MikesRadioRepairRestoration ok , thanks . I’m 66 and just getting into the hobby so much appreciate your input! Also just ran across your channel and subscribed .
l like how you explain the design issues as you come across them. The regulated vs. unregulated B+ and how that power resistor would affect both voltages and possibly the alignment is such an example. I've got an HQ-170 sitting in an upstairs bedroom I'd really like to get working again so this is of great interest to me. Thanks, Mike.
i have what appears to be a bad solder connection except i sucked off and reheated every single solder connection in the radio. I also cleaned all tube pins and sockets. Replaced all resistors and caps. yet i have an intermittent crackling and sensativity issue. The sensativity comes and goes. poking in the radio and wiggling does nothing. Moving tubes does nothing. But if i stand in the center of the room and lightly tap my foot it will crackle and reception will get better or worse. just like a bad solder joint. hitting chassis or tubes does nothing. only standing in room and hitting my foot on the floor or rolling my desk chair across the floor will cause the reception (connection issue) to either improve or get worse with a slight crackling. im at a loss what to do
@@MikesRadioRepairRestoration radio is a philco 42-380 code 121 Since this i have replaced all the tubes thinking maybe a bad connection inside tube but no change. I cleaned the band switch multiple times. I poked and wiggled everything in the radio for the last three days and no change but tapping foot on floor gently and or rolling desk chair slowly across floor causes the crackle and great / poor reception problem. Something acts like its loose but cant find it. I even jumpered each terminal block to chassis that is tied to chassis with a rivet. This thing is driving me crazy and im to a point where i just dont know what to do anymore.
@@MikesRadioRepairRestoration thought about it but the if cans are not the type that get this. They are the older style. It is vibration influenced but poking tapping on micas does not cause any change. If it is a Mica it would have to be one of the point to point ones but not sure how to figure out which one
@@kwacz Based on your description, I think you will find a silver mica shorting. They arent that hard to find if you have a signal tracer or o scope and s signal generator. I assume you have correctly serviced your tuning cap contacts?
The very first thing that happens when a vintage rig hits my bench, the cord is cut so I don’t ever be tempted to plug it in. No restoration is started without the power supply section being 100% safe before moving on. That includes adding fuse or checking the fuse value and replacing any safety caps that are in the circuit.
Well planned and produced video. My first visit. I subscribed and will continue the series with great interest. I bought an S-76 today so should have mine on the bench pretty soon. Finishing up an NC-173 now. Thanks for the great content, tips, etc.
Well planned and produced video. My first visit. I subscribed and will continue the series with great interest. I bought an S-76 today so should have mine on the bench pretty soon. Finishing up an NC-173 now. Thanks for the great content, tips, etc.
Hi Mike. Mike here too! Awesome video series. Im in the process of restoring my S-38B. Ive made all the necessary safety modifications and recapped/re-resistored it. Powers up great and works! However, on the lower half of all 4 bands, the radio makes loud popping sounds. Upper halves work perfectly. I suspect that the tuning capacitor blades may be contacting eachother. Does this sound like a good guess or do you have any other tips?
Im sorry I missed this queston till now. Yes thats the first place I would look. Especially if the popping is in time with the movement of the tuning knob. Could be plates touching or contacts that need a drop of cleaner. Cheers!
Mike, do you know anyone in the Wisconsin area capable of repairing/aligning a Hammarlund HQ-125-X and a Hammarlund HQ-140-X? They both work, but they could possibly need some maintenance. Thank Mike. 73's de Bruce - KA9GVL
Thank you for this. I'm picking up an SX100 in a few days so I'm not sure what surprises are in store, but I hope to do a proper recap and a thorough check of all the resistors. One question, could you provide the spec of those safety caps you used? In the schematic I downloaded there's a 60uF and a couple of 20uF electrolytics listed.
I bought my Johnson Viking II from my Elmer back in the 70's and it was a work horse for my cw ops for a few years. I had the VFO as well and it never gave me a bit of trouble but I never did try it out on AM phone. 73, WA4JAT
Thanks for the offer of work Ethan. But I no longer do transistorized / VLSI based equipment. There is another guy here on youtube also called Mikes Radio Repair who does indeed do CBs. Maybe try him. Cheers
This one is on Deck. So Glad you are doing a video on this transmitter. One of the few Johnson's I don't have yet in my collection. Great vid! I hope you do A Valiant at some point as well.
@@MikesRadioRepairRestoration Ranger is good to go hooked up to my Thunderbolt. My 500 has a clean bill of health after a 20m coil shorted and had to be fixed. I have 2 Valiants to bad the shipping would be to much to get it to you.
I've adopted this same method over the years. I too have seen and experienced failures over time when crimps by themselves try to live in the dirty wet environment of the world. 👍
Thanks! The information provided assures long lasting durable connections safe from the elements. It’s amazing how just a little extra care makes such a big difference.
