These are various antique engines that I have collected. I have taken these engines apart and did whatever it took to get them running. I like the vintage look and kept that antique look on these old engines instead of restoring them.
Great job! I have been thinking about making one of these from a V8 for a while. I was thinking of putting a crank size gear on the camshaft that might do the same thing. I never thought of double lobing the cam. You've got me thinking again.
Thanks. Nothing as simple as the, at least what we called therm, Pincore carburetor, buy for any power at all they were useless. Good training for elementary school kids on what a carb is & works. Before B&S thought that aluminum bores & valve seats were a good idea.
Thanks, nice work. Could you try changing the intake to just a very light spring & no lifter so it's operating like a reed valve, just for the hell of it? Also much weaker springs for this low rpm range.
I have a 1920 Z and you dont dare start it with the crank. It has a nasty kickback ocassionally and I could see it breaking a hand or finger! Wish mine would start that ez!
I know what you mean. I hold the intake valve open long enough to get it spinning then remove the crank before I let off of the intake. BTW your ZD is running really nice. They are sometimes a little temperamental. Nice job.
They have 1/2-14 NPT threads. You can try tapping it deeper since it is tapered. If the spark plug bottoms out you have to get more drastic and get a 3/4 to 1/2 NPT reducer. You will have to use the proper drill size & 3/4-14 NPT tap. www.homedepot.com/p/Southland-3-4-in-x-1-2-in-Black-Malleable-Iron-Bushing-Fitting-521-943HP/304797357?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&pla&mtc=SHOPPING-BF-LNC-GGL-D26P-Multi-NA-NA-NA-PLALIA-NA-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NA-LINC_All&cm_mmc=SHOPPING-BF-LNC-GGL-D26P-Multi-NA-NA-NA-PLALIA-NA-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NA-LINC_All-71700000117494140-58700008670167528-92700079507554751&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw5Ky1BhAgEiwA5jGujqaavF79vKgXVhvaMSE105pQTWWwQS6L6k8J7Y-xOD-Pkp9YpMs7hhoCLrIQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds or this may work better. ? www.grainger.com/product/52AW35?gucid=N:N:PS:Paid:GGL:CSM-2295:4P7A1P:20501231&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI58jm_93UhwMVcSzUAR2TfyZnEAQYCCABEgKPSPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
@@DanielKing-f6o I would strongly suggest trying to tap the 1/2-14 NPT threads deeper first. If you need to go the reducer route, make sure you have plenty of meat on the head for the enlarged threads. They do make Helicoils for pipe threads, but the inserts & special tools needed are VERY expensive. Good luck
@@Old-Engine-Dude I'm pretty sure my Dad has the Helicoil tools, I will check his shop (he passed away suddenly in April) and was working on this engine which he put on a garden tractor years ago, he had it running before he passed but when I tried to start it the spark plug shot out when it fired. I want to get it moving again for him, I remember driving it 30 years ago.
@@Old-Engine-Dude Nobody was sure, and I couldn’t find mention on the Lehigh FacePlant page after 2022… Ah well, we made Wamego for the 4th, will have to head up to Lehigh next year.
In the small town of walbeno Wisconsin they do the steam up days which is where people show off their vintage tractors motors etc. it was started by my grandpa and his brother and my grandpa had a trailer with a bunch of hit and miss/one lunger engines that he would showcase but the motors sadly got sold off
Years ago my grandpa gave my dad one of those WM Briggs and Stratton motor along with an other one. I got the other one running but I can’t get the WM motor to run. The point plunger doesn’t go up and there is a key way on the crank shaft thats missing the key to push the plunger up, do you have any idea if there is supposed to be that key and if so what would it be called
Actually there is a flat spot on the crankshaft. As crankshaft turns, the point plunger will fall into it which closes the points. My guess is that your plunger is stuck and will not allow the spring pressure of the points to push it down into the flat of the crankshaft. I would remove the points, spray penetrating oil on the plunger and let it soak in, then try to use a needle nose pliers and gently lift up while rotating it back and forth.
@@Old-Engine-Dude man I can’t thank you enough for the tip I was going crazy thinking I lost a key but I got it running after you led me in the right direction, it used to belong to my grandpa so it means a lot
@@cappablecannon1824 I'm glad that I can help. they are great running engines and I know how it can mean a lot to your. I purchased this from my uncle and it used to be my grandfathers. studio.ru-vid.como4akm1mKHK0/edit
No lid safety switch? 😂 On a serious note, this washing machine will likely outlast any of today's washing machines which have an average lifespan of 3 - 5 years before needing to be repaired/replaced.
Great video. I got to see this in Wichita but never had the opportunity to see it run. Ellis Railroad Museum in Ellis Kansas has an Ottoway B20 Aerotrain in operation if you're ever interested in seeing that.
Nice engine - after watching your video I decided to add one of these to my list this year. It has enough moving parts to keep me entertained for hours. Not sure but I think I've seen your stuff at the Goessel show before.
Visited a friend with a similar model to this in a scab patch. It's impressive how large the Holt machines were compared to other combines in that era.
I noticed an old International Harvester stationary engine for sale locally and the ad says it runs great. What type of price is reasonable, in your opinion? thanks.
I would guess roughly $300 for a 1.5-2.5hp and higher for a 3-5hp. the LB's had a trough that dripped oil the the rocker arms. the older LA's had little oil cups.
Thanks for the comment @enjundoc. I caught a glimpse of your Stover model K on your 2024 Channel Update video. Your channel is my favorite when it comes to these engines and I look forward to seeing yours running. My model K is one of the easiest starting engines I have.
Ok cool! Yeah I just started the search for gears. The cream separator gear is totally gone down to the hub and the cam gear has broken teeth. Seems these stovers had serious dental issues!!@@Old-Engine-Dude
It is actually a plug not a nut. You have to remove the plug and pour water into the dome to prime the pump. there has to be water in the pump before it will start working. Thanks for watching.
@Old-Engine-Dude the reason why I'm asking the bitumin sprayers I work on have the same plug so I'm assuming that cause these pumps work off the bases of water and you prime them with water the bitumin sprayers must need priming with bitumin before you start spraying how do you pour it in with a funel maybe?
I had it running for an hour to break the rings in and it surprisingly didn't get very hot. However I'm like you and was wondering about that myself. Will have to come up with something homemade to make it even more Frankensteinish. Thanks again for watching.
I picked up a 1947 LB with the oil bath air cleaner. Mine does not have the wire runner down the cleaner. Is this wire holding the oil cup to the bottom of the air cleaner?
Yes, it is U shaped with a loop on it that fits in the recessed area of the oil cup. You should be able to make one yourself. I have attached 4 pictures in the link below. www.smokstak.com/forum/threads/international-harvester-lb-w-air-cleaner.231429/
