A few clarifications please: When you restring the guitar (1:45 mark), are you supposed to tune the guitar (full string tension)? When you loosen the locking nuts (2:00), it’s inevitable that the bridge will tilt towards the headstock, correct? It’s only by retightening the locking nuts (2:35) that the bridge is pulled back to level (or close to it)? Thank you
Changing the original solid compensated bridge for one with adjustable saddles is a mistake. The solid compensated bridge, being a single piece, has more sustain. The more pieces, the less sustain. The original bridge is already stepped and the intonation can now be adjusted. There is no need to adjust so many things when they are in place. High-end acoustic guitars have a fixed bridge and their intonation is correct.
Have had mine for 4 years now. They MUST be greased more than once. Lubricated mine a little too late. The metal was eaten up by the movements and now I have to buy new ones. They also unscrew the screw that goes into the guitar because the lock is part of the screw and without lubrication / grease it starts to unscrew from the movements. Mine are now completely eaten up and it's just luck that I didn't drop the guitar and see how eaten up the holder was. I could flip the mount off with a little movement just..FYI only
@@repoman5581 oh, well that’s good 😂. i can’t keep a set of strings on mine for more than a day before they snap because of the single piece bridge. i have the p90 version.
I just bought a new Player Series Fender Strat and your screws are WAY bigger than the screw I took out of the existing strap holder. Is it ok to force your bigger screw into the hole or am I going to cause irreparable damage?
I definitely prefer the classic model. I like to use the original screw from the bass so, I can't stand the "one piece strap button". I also hate the lock wheel. I used to use a larger diameter washer than the factory and I'd absolutely crank the nut down. Overall a disappointing change.
I'm a little confused bc I am installing my S locks but the 4mm button screw is thicker than my Epiphone Prophecy button screw .. so now I'm worried I might damage the body by forcing the screw in
Please first check bridge bolt spacing or contact a luthier if necessary. See our technical drawings down below here: schaller.info/en/bridges/351/signum?c=52
Please always check the thickness of the body wood first. This will determine the required length of the S-Locks. You can find more information with mounting instructions and a technical drawing of Schaller S-Locks in the product description of our webshop: schaller.info/en/s-locks/276/s-locks-m?c=18
This bridge is absolute garbage, it made me smash my guitar to splinters in rage. It's a stupid design, the damn bridge is not flat, it angles itself, the lock nut thread is not long enough so it won't grab the bridge, the anchor posts are too loose and don't adjust anything other than down into the body. Absolutely the worst piece of shit ever put on a guitar!
Hello there! I have a question please: I own these pair of Schaller tuners, but I am uncertain on which strings the tuners with thinner and thicker axes have to be installed, respectively? Please answer. Thanks in advance.
@@GeoffreyBRIDGLAND Thanks for your answer 🙏! I think I didn't mention that I want to install the pair of D tuners on a steel string guitar and in that case, what would be string selections? Sorry for any confusions.
Hi, thanks for the reviews. I bought a Fender strap lock set to go on my Fender Squier Jazz Bass and the screws that came with the set are smaller than what's on the Squier. I heard of people using toothpicks and such to rig the locks to work. I was wondering if you had the same issue with the Fender locks on your Fender bass? I don't know if there's a difference between American made and Indonesian made Fender basses. I just want a lock that will have the same screw size. Thanks for any help.
I just gor mine from Amazon... these are actually crap! They still rattle what is very annoying, screw is a lot thicker then original one in my custom shop strat so once you install this you cant reverse it. They cost fortune for what it is as well... I regret this purchase and regret damaging my guitar with that thick thread :(
Just got the new s-locks. I am using security locks a long time on my Strat. Now I wanted to use them with my Lakewoods. The Screws are to long at the Neck side. I had to cut them but now it works an is still strong enough
I used to love and be obsessed with the Dunlop Straploks for years but after a brand-new set failed and drop my guitar straight to the ground I'm never buying them again. Yeah, I know it might have been a faulty unit in like 10,000 that left the factory, but I don't care. If I pay for a product that is intended to lock my strap in place and I trust my very expensive/favorite guitars with it, I expect it to do its job and do it well, so failing one time only is really all I need. Anyway, my cat-like reflexes were, fortunately, quick enough for me to catch the neck of my favorite guitar right on time and avoid the tragedy about 3 inches from the floor, but I feel for those who may not get so lucky. So, since that incident happened my advice for all my fellow guitarists has been to ditch those Dunlop abominations out of your beloved guitars, and instead switch to these babies right here, Schaller S-Locks, because the mechanism on these is designed in such a way that even in the remote possibility that they fail to lock the strap (something already pretty much impossible to happen because it is spring-locked tightly and strongly) it will still secure your guitar in place because of the way the lock connects to the guitar from below. You would only notice that it "failed" if/when you took off the strap yourself, basically. So, what this means is that with this straplock, your guitar is literally always secure and protected from a disaster, I mean even gravity itself is on your side and helping. A disaster just can't happen even if you wanted to and so it's absolutely perfect. Sorry for the rant, but friends don't let friends buy Dunlop Straploks. Stay safe and Rock On \m/
Hello I have a question about the locks I have a set of them on a schecter omen and the pole bar is slightly showing a piece of metal instead of them snapping into place is this normal or is it a defect can you assist me or educate me as to what to do thank you kindly.
Was ist mit "Vintage Copper" los? Wird es nie wieder hergestellt oder kommt es irgendwann wieder??? What's up with "Vintage Copper"? Is it entirely discontinued or just temporarily out of stock?
I've been using old shaller locks for over 10 years, had installed the buttons on two of my guitars. I just got a new guitar, and while looking for the buttons, I thought I'll give this new version a try. Putting the button and the screw into one piece is really a bad design choice. It might save some cost on productions, but for the customers, it limits the usage. The screws were larger than what I had for my guitar. (Larger and longer threads). This will crack your finish bad if you don't drill before putting them on! They really should have allowed users to choose already existing screws if needed. This is really a dumb choice IMO. Also, the one of the locks pull is very sticky and it's really hard to unlock. I think this is poor quality control. Maybe it will loosen up overtime, but it is really rigid and hard to unlock right now. I do give some credit for its rattle free design as they advertised. But overall I am very disappointed. I trusted the Shaller name, and went for it despite there are many other cheaper third party parts out there. Now I think maybe I should have gone for that with out paying premium for their name. I'd adivse anyone who's looking to get this one just to go older style locks, or at lease older style buttons.
