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Sir I am very grateful to you and I have learnt a lot from you Sir please make a video on how to change the compressor of VRF machine and how to flash it Thank you
Thank you! Yes, it has been a while, I have been busy teaching so much. I hope to have some free time first of the year. Thank you and thank you for watching!
Thank you, I'm glad you like the video. And yes, it has been. I have been so busy teaching. I hope to have more free time and yes, I will make a note to make a video on inverter technology. Thank you and thank you for watching!
Thank you! I'm so glad to hear that. That's why I make these videos, I want to help you guys out there! I'm glad you liked the video and thank you for watching!
On heat pumps, it is a matter of time and temperature. So it is every 30, 60, or 90 minutes that it will check to see if it needs to go into defrost. The way it knows if it needs to go into defrost is because of the defrost thermostat, this is where the temperature comes in. The defrost thermostat is not closed because the temperature of the coil is so cold then it will just keep running in the heating mode. So when both time and temperature are calling for it, then it will go into defrost for, no longer than 10 minutes. If things are working properly and the charge is correct then the heat pump should come out of defrost within three minutes. This is how the defrost works, again because of time and temperature. I hope this answer answered your question, thank you for watching.
The reason you need a manifold set or gauges to pump down is because you need to see what the pressure is on the low side. And you only want to run the compressor as you are pumping down down to zero pressure. Because if you go into a deep vacuum, you may ruin the compressor.
Heya boss, love your channel. You ever work in maritime, or on the big chillers? I'd love to get in contact with you if you ever have any availability.
You ask about Maritime? I learned a lot of this in the US Navy. We had chillers refrigeration equipment and all kinds of equipment that ran off of seawater to cool the condenser. Where are you located? Where do you work?
Best video and explanation out there! Thank you for such a detailed video! You are an amazing teacher! I came across your video because my heat pump went to defrost mode. I saw steam and all but the noise kept getting worse and worse. I saw my discharge temp go up to 250 degrees which I hear is never good past 225. They say 225 keeps compressor alive. I think my charge was a little low because it went into defrost at like 46 degrees which was weird. No frost noticed on outdoor coils but I saw steam and a little water under the condenser though.
It could have been that it was low on Freon. But it should only be in defrost for 10 minutes maximum. So having the pressure and the discharge like that should not affect it that much. It is odd that at 46°. It went into defrost. You could also have a bad defrost thermostat and if it failed in the close position, which they do sometimes, then no matter what the outdoor temperature is it will still go into defrost. So make sure you check that defrost thermostat operation. And thank you for your kind words! I hope this helps and thank you for watching.
No, I don't believe I have any questions videos about headmaster valves. I have videos about EPR evaporator pressure, regulating valves and compressor crank case pressure regulating valves. Maybe I will make a video on that. Thank you for letting me know and thank you for watching.
can any answer on how to drain the liquid refrigerant from the accumulator and pump it back to the receiver. the plumbing and what kind of pump… its a question on my stationary engineer exam
That can easily be done by first closing off the king valve, which is the valve on or right after the receiver, then you would close the suction service valve, that should be before the accumulator. When you push the contactor in to make the compressor run, you would boil the liquid out of the accumulator and into the receiver. once you have done this, you can close off the liquid line service valve on the liquid line, which is before the receiver and refrigerant should have gone into the receiver. I hope this helps! It is called a pump down procedure. Thank you for watching and sending your question in!
Other than pumping it down, using the pump down procedure, the only way to get it to move around, would be the recovery machine. The recovery machine could be used as a pump to move it from one place to the other. typically it is a pump down procedure. I hope this answers your question. Let me know.
@@tyhamell5425 be careful because when you use a vacuum pump, that would not be the correct answer. The vacuum pump would pump whatever is in there to the atmosphere. With a recovery machine, you could move it from wherever over to the receiver. But the correct thing to do would be to pump the system down. So you pump everything onto the high side, including the condenser and the receiver. Whatever is in the accumulator or the evaporator pumped into the condenser and into the receiver...
Hello Julio, thanks for another great video. I was wondering if it's possible to just change the powerhead when changing the freon. For example when converting a refridgerator system from R12 to a modern freon.. Or do I have to change the whole TXV? Thanks a lot
I am sorry to say that one of the things that changes is the size of the orifice. So it will be necessary to change the entire metering device/TXV I wish it was that easy, but the whole thing should be replaced. Thank you for watching!
Hi! Yes! As you can see in the video, I am boiling water at 70°F! To do this you lower the pressure in the vessel and as it absorbs heat from the surrounding area, it boils. I don't know where you are, but if you are in an area that is approximately at sea level water boil at 212°F. You are up in the mountains. The water will boil at a lower temperature. If you are approximately 5000 feet above sea level water will boil at 203° because the pressure is lower. This is how the refrigeration cycle works. The metering device will lower the pressure and because of that we can have refrigerant boiling at approximately 40°F. because the compressor compresses the refrigerant and the pressure we can make the refrigerant from vapor to liquid, in other words, we can get it at a temperature of approximately 120°F, Fahrenheit, Fahrenheit. So to answer your question yes we make water boil by lowering the pressure. Thank you for sending your question in, and thank you for watching!
The only explanation that I have is that when you pull down to 500 µm the boiling temperature of water drops down to 0°F. so if you are working on a unit and it is 35 or 40° outside by pulling down to 500 µm and it holds, you are sure to remove all of the moisture from the system. the lower you bring the pressure the lower the boiling temperature is. Keep in mind that because the new refrigerants are using POE oil, the oil will not release the moisture. So we need to make sure that we get as much of it out of their as possible. I hope this answers your question. And thank you for watching!
This really only works for the reciprocating compressor, which has the suction and discharge valves. On a rotary compressor there are no valves. It draws the refrigerant in from one side and acid rotates a compress it and pushes it out on the other side. So you really do not have suction and discharge valves, like you do have on the reciprocating compressor. I hope this answers your question. And thank you for watching!
Ha ha ha! Yes! That will usually show you where the problem is. It is one of those one way troubleshooting ways and sometimes there is no coming back from there lol thanks a lot that was great! And thank you for watching!
Hey brother, I just worked on a bus with a '05G compressor. It runs on r134a There are two valves located on it. Do you know if they need to be turned all the way in for it to be open or do they need to be turned all the way out for it to be open? And also what should be the running pressure at 100° f? The charts do not make sense because I compare it with other r134a compressors on smaller vehicles and they are way different? The '05g compressor is running at 70 psi on the low suction side and 225 on the high side at 100° f
The two valves you are talking about are they suction service valve and the discharge service valve. Those valves need to be opened all the way to where it is called back seated. When they are all the way to the back, you will not have access, or you will not be able to read precious when you hook up gauges. If you want to pressures at the compressor then, they should be with the mid position or cracked. That means that they are off of the backseat. If you close the valves completely, then they are considered front seated, and the compressor will not run because there will be no flow of refrigerant through it. Those pressures are giving me seem to be pretty close. Do you have a site glass anywhere on the liquid line or on the receiver/dryer? Do you want to make sure you have enough subcooling and with the bus running a different speed your pressures are going to change. As the bus speeds up the engine wraps up, which is going to turn that compressor faster and change your pressures. So you need to make sure you have sub cooling coming out of the condenser. Usually there's a site glass somewhere so you can make sure you have a full color of liquid going to the metering device. I hope this answers your question. Good luck and thank you for watching!
@@AirConAcademy awesome man! I really appreciate you explaining this to me because this compressor is totally different from a regular little automobile compressor being that this '05g has six Pistons I will make a video of the RPMs of it running and show you the gauge pressures. I noticed the high pressure gauge was bouncing?
The unloaders on some manufacturers are energized for them to be loaded and on others they have to be de-energized, or another words no power going to them for them to be loaded and doing work. Depending on the age of the unit like an older units, they could be controlled through the thermostat. Then they were controlled through a Honeywell controller and these days they're controlled through circuit boards or computers that control the building temperature. I would start by looking at the schematic and see where the wires go to from the unloaders that are on the compressor. By tracing them back, you can see what is turning them on and off. I wish I could give you more information, but if they're not loading at the moment, you could check to see if they have voltage going to the unloader if they do, you can undo the voltage wires in that should load it up. And you could run it temporarily until you figure out how they are being turned on and off. Hope this helps! Thank you for watching. If you have any other questions, please shoot them my way!
Thank you for the kind words! And thank you for the idea! I never thought about wearing a white T-shirt. I have noticed that the writing is hard to see because of the different color shirts that I wear. But it white one would work out great! Thank you! And thank you for watching!
I am not quite sure what you're asking. But I hope this helps. We would like the evaporator to be approximately at 40°F. Because of that the suction pressure when you look it up in the PT chart should be very close to 40° we are absorbing sensible and latent heat in the evaporator. Heat is heat whether it is sensible or latent heat. This heat will be absorbed by the refrigerant and evaporator and that is going to make the refrigerant boil at a specific rate. The evaporator is designed to absorb a specific amount of heat with a specific amount of airflow, and the combination of the two will give us the correct amount of gas, leaving the evaporator. The evaporator is going to absorb this heat from the air and the more humidity you have the more dehumidification it is going to do, less humidity the more temperature difference you are going to see. I hope this helps and I hope this answers your question. If it does not, please feel free to send me another message. And thank you for watching!
Thanks for the information and same time I have a question. If we were to replace a whole compressor with the one that burnt out, do we need to know the reason for the burn out. I understand we need to flush the whole system for acid but now a new compressor replaces the old one. I would try to find the reason only if I have to replace the motor in the compressor or the bearings but if I am completely replacing the whole compressor then is there any need to know the reason for burnout ? Thanks
You should always try to find the reason for the failure. But because of what you are commenting on here, are you replacing an open compressor? Because typically when you replace the compressor, you are already replacing the motor that runs the compressor. On an open compressor, the motor is not in contact with the refrigerant. There is acid in the system. The acid will travel with oil and affect Motor. If the reason you are replacing, the compressor is because of broken parts inside of the compressor, it could be that you have floodback. You're getting liquid back to the compressor in which case if you do not find out the reason for the failure, the new compressor is going to fail really soon. So yes, you should always find out the reason for the failure and if you have acid in the system, you need to neutralize the acid. Flushing the system, or I should say the lines with a cleaning agent and nitrogen might not be enough. You need to put some acid away or some kind of neutralizer hope this answers your question. I hope you find out why the compressors keep failing good luck and thank you for watching!
wow!!!! Thank you so much! I love doing this and I enjoy it and because of my experience I think I can make it easy for you guys to understand what I'm talking about. Thank you for your kind words and thank you for watching!
You're very welcome! Books? Well let me tell you most of this I have learned from being out in the field and working. Yes I have taken several courses and I have gone to several classes, but most of this comes from putting all of those little bits of information together, condensing it and putting it out for you guys! I'm glad you enjoyed the video and thank you for watching!
Yes! Absolutely correct. Like I tell people in class, all of the components are the same and they will fail for the same reasons. By adjusting the pressure we can change the temperatures. So yes, some phrases that run at -10°F and some refrigerators for candy and flowers run higher than your typical air conditioning evaporator coil. Maybe I should do another video talking about different temperatures and pressures. You just gave me an idea. Thank you so much! And thank you for watching!
