@@marcuschow1335 left valve is controlled by the PSE button, so you open and close with button. At idle, if you have PSE on, the valve remains open. The right valve is controlled by the ECU. In my case, with my ECU tuning, I believe is opened all the time honestly. I haven’t seen it closed. But it is normally closed and open during WOT. And opens at cold start too.
@ mine one side is always open regardless if I off the pse not sure if it closes when I’m driving but it seems softer but I can’t see that’s why I’m asking lol
@@Kiss__Kiss Thanks man! As always thanks for the support. Got some new camera gear and equipment that is just making video quality and composition much better, even with object tracking capability so that so can still film alone but it looks like I have a camera man with me….☺️
@@porscheDIY Love your way of thinking. Very methodical in everything you do, which also translates to picking and choosing your equipment, in order to film your future progress. Hence why, we all continue to flock to your newest videos, Sir. Well done, in your approach. 🦾
Thanks for your suggestion. I’ll record interior sound later and release it in a short video. I can’t compare PSE Plus with normal PSE, as I never had normal PSE. But I can say that I clearly hear a more aggressive exhaust sound inside the cabin, with all the burbles. It is not loud or overwhelming, but more like a refined loud exhaust with PSE Plus. Also there is absolutely no droning. My normal drive combination is SPORT / PSE ON, basically all the time I’m driving. It makes the experience quite enjoyable from inside the cabin.
There is a data USB cable that connects on the rear panel of the unit. You should’ve left that cable with USB accessible. In my case, I connected that cable to an extension that I already had going to my center console. But in your case, probably best to leave on the side (maybe passenger side) hidden but accessible. Thanks for your kind words and thanks for watching. I hope you subscribed to the channel.
Correct. You need to turn car on, wait until it reach 30C (but not higher than 50C), remove fill port. If oil comes out, then level is OK. If not, fill until spill and then reinstall the plug. All while engine running. Note that the car needs to be leveled.
You can. I know I mention use new screws, but the reality is that you can. Apologies about that. Normally I buy this in a kit and it includes new screws. Thanks for your question and comment. Hope you are subscribed.
You are truly amazing. I would have to buy an OBD2 but this looks « doable » even for me. Looking to add the clock - sport plus and I just bought the 21 inches 911 turbo wheels. For the exhaust button, nothing can be done I guess. When the center console is full of buttons it really looks like a cockpit. I have a 2018 S, I will try. Thank you sir from France.
😢 unfortunately the Sport Plus is not in the menu of my Macan 😭 Maybe only in 🇺🇸…. If it’s not there I guess that it is useless to try your hack… Thank you so much though.
Thanks for your kind words. Let us know how it goes. I added PSE and the PSE button as well, if you watch my latest video. But that is more involved, requiring PSE mufflers, a wire harness you need to install from engine cowl to rear and special coding that can only be done with PIWIS. Thanks again, and I hope you are subscribed to the channel.
thank you Santrix.. as always great video and details. I just came from mechanic stated I need to replace upper and lower front control arms for roughly 3500.00 and have a couple of questions. I have done some work to my own Macan S, 2016, simple things and am mechanically inclined and wanted to know how long did it take to complete both sides and should i do the job myself. not sure if any special tools needed other then torque wrench, ratchet, mallet. your thoughts and or special tools that I may need?
Thanks for your kind words. Please read the description in the video. I go through all parts and special tools I used (other than the normal wrenches and torque wrenches). It took about 3 to 4 hours to do the lower control arms (both sides). It is a bit tricky to remove some of the bolts. Refer to video so that you can see how I did it. The trickiest part for me was torquing because I don’t have a large platform where I can raise the car with wheels in driving height, and torque should be done at riding height. Using ramps with car at riding (normal) height gives limited space… so needed to be patient. The upper control arms are easier to do… probably about 2-3 hours. The hardest part is removing the pinch bolt. I was lucky because one side was loose, but the other side was frozen welded in place and I had to remove using heat… also would be good to have an air hammer tool to loosen the arms from the knuckle bearing carrier. But, it is doable as a DIY. Good luck and let us know how it goes. Thanks for your support and hope you are subscribed.
hello, I want to ask you because I saw in one of you videos that you have an Porsche software for updating and installing of modules. I installed an chrono watch on my Porsche macaw but is not working. Do you know anything about it how can I code or how can I download any software that you use for downloading. thnx a lot
Did you have a clock before and swapped it with a Chrono Watch? In what way is not working? Is it not turning on? Or is it turning on and you just can’t use it as Chronograph? If you had a clock before, swapping to a chrono watch should work at least as a clock. To add chrono option, you need to code it. You can for it using a Launch X431 or Otofix/Autel with ECU coding capabilities which you can buy at Amazon. I don’t remember right now how I did mine (as I did the same) but I’ll post instructions here sometime this week.
@@Sharktooni contact Mr12Volt directly… they usually are good communicating back, especially through WhatsApp. Their WhatsApp link is in their website.
@@porscheDIY I tried to look for it since everyone says they respond quickly on WhatsApp but I think they might have taken it down, now there's only their email
Thanks for your comments… working on it. There are still a few pieces I need to film and I’m just looking at the right opportunity to do that…. Trying to wrap it up by next weekend… stay tuned!!
You DO NOT have to mess with the lower level sensor. There is plenty room in there to inspect the filter housing all the way around, and turn it to remove the filter, insert the new one, turn the housing and screw it back in. Easiest peasy.
@@TeeDeeDubya Can you demonstrate? I haven’t found a way to remove the filter housing in my 718S without having to move the headlight sensor lever down. Even the CV shaft needs to be in a certain position for the filter housing to come out. And I have changed the oil already about 4 times, always the same… Looking forward to your explanation. You can use the channel community, if you can, and post photos. Or reply here with a link to where I can see this. BTW… moving that lever down is really the easiest part of the whole oil changing process…but if we don’t have to do it then I’m all for it.
What computer program are you using? And where can I buy it? I have a 2018 Macan GTS and would love to have this for diagnostic and modification work. Thanks and keep up the great videos.
E10 socket. A long extension for the ratchet. The rest are optional depending on what you use. You can use normal clamps instead of oitiker. BTW… thanks for your kind words and I hope you are subscribed to the channel.
In the video I do state that the sound quality with the provided MOST conversion box is bad. To fix that, I got a MOPC-1 MOST converter from Amazon. Do you have PCM 3.1 or 4.0?
@@NawafHha Then, check out the MOPC-1 converter in Amazon: DNL Teclink Optical Fiber Decoder Box for Car Stereo Mercedes ML W164 GL X164 E-Class (2008-2009) SLK (2008-2011) CLK-Class Porsche Cayenne: MOPC-1 a.co/d/hgRL3Ua You can also get a box that converts Toslink (SPDIF) output to MOST25: www.aliexpress.us/item/2255800283223505.html?algo_pvid=547d7701-040d-43db-9073-dbb057a05e1c&algo_exp_id=547d7701-040d-43db-9073-dbb057a05e1c-0&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21USD%2188.00%2182.50%21%21%2188.00%2182.50%21%402101ead817290158223321295e8f37%2112000042764072685%21sea%21US%210%21ABX&curPageLogUid=3r2ZywZyUD8U&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A The supplied box is just not gonna cut it. As I stated, I mention that in my video.
Just a quick question. What if I just unplug the wire from the exhaust valve which is on the passenger side muffler? That will remain the valve be always opened. Will the sound be better? Will it harm a vehicle or cause any issues in future? I just want a little more sound from my exhaust to be produced. I’ve read it makes a little difference and people love how it turns out but I would really like to hear your opinion about it! Have you heard of this method btw? Thanks ahead 🙌🏼
You can disconnect the valve, no issues. This will give you a very nominal louder sound, but not much… difficult to detect difference honestly. The issue is that the exhaust still goes through the muffler. With this modification, all padding is removed from passenger side muffler and a direct connection is made on the driver’s side (in addition to removing muffler padding). So the result is a nice sound. BTW… mine was always disconnected. In the opening video of my Macan with original mufflers, the sound produced is with valve disconnected. You can always try disconnecting it and see how you like it. If you do that, I recommend you getting the AWE valve simulator. It fools the ECU into thinking that the valve is connected, hence your system won’t get a fault code. flat6motorsports.com/products/awe-tuning-electronic-valve-simulator-macan?_pos=157&_sid=9cb9c620c&_ss=r
@@MaryamOzaybi please search the comments here. I answered the same question 2 weeks ago for someone who asked the same. Start with that and let me know if you need additional help. Thanks.
Should this be done as part of a wider set of mods? Would just doing this in isolation have an adverse effect on other areas of suspension and subframe ?
I don’t think it will have an adverse effect if you have not done other mods… for example, I removed the differential bushing inserts because it developed a humming at 80mph when I replaced the subframe. Still installed the subframe inserts and they are working fine.
@@RomanticTuna About right. Just make sure you are doing one at a time… torque to spec. Try to use new bolts, as these are torque to yield. Remember to remove the plastic insert from inside the bushings.
I have the Macan Turbo 2017, and Porsche told me I can't retrofit the PSE. But what I found on the forums is that the turbo has one valve in the right muffler that opens automatically in sport mode or in certain RPMs. So what I did I just took it apart and left the valve open at all time. And it definitely sounds much better, not sure about compression on engine tho.
I had that valve on the right muffler too… still have it in the new setup. This valve is controlled directly by the DME/ECU. With PSE you gain an additional valve and larger muffler pipes with an additional valve on the left muffler to make it a more straight run. However, PSE is still muffled. The mufflers I installed, which is being called PSE plus, are highly modified mufflers by RADHAUS which truly make a straight run without sound being muffled. Is like installing a muffler delete when the left valve is open and more normal when it’s closed. I don’t think the dealer was very honest. This PSE retrofit can be done for all 1st GEN Macan.
@@porscheDIY Amazing, yeah your macan definitely sounds much better now. And I actually went straight to Porsche and this is what they told me, so now what I am thinking is just to find a left PSE muffler with a valve and just install it in the place of the old mufler with a valve.
@@RossMinchev you mean installing a left PSE muffler in the right location? It would not work. You’ll end up with the connection pointing to the wrong direction and the motor pointing down. Talk to these guys: www.macanforum.com/threads/available-now-pse-plus-exhaust-service.194255/?post_id=2801727#post-2801727
i have PSE on my 2018 turbo but the right valve always open. it seems like to motor working just fine when i tested . is this normal ? can't wait to see part 2 of the video
The Macan is very quiet. Even with the PSE valves fully opened, is still a bit quiet. The RADHAUS PSE Plus is I think the right amount of sound. I’m finding myself opening the PSE valve all the time. Thanks for watching! Hope you are subscribed…
@@MrNanah38 I got really lucky, found a lightly used one on Craigslist, I live in So Cal, that PSE installation is way too complicated, I like sound to be always on
@@MrNanah38 I change rotors with every brake service. It ensures best performance. But you don’t really need to replace rotors until minimum thickness spec is reached. This minimum thickness should be engraved in the rotor.
@@porscheDIY yeah i did, I downloaded the boot animation and I have a boot select app on my android screen but I can’t find the « boot » file in the file management app
I notice in this video, you use WHT 005 282 as the drain plug while other tutorials use WHT 003 487 -- any opinions now that this video is 2 years old? I bought both plugs hahaha
The WHT005282 shows as drain plug and the PAF003487 shows as the fill plug. I’m not sure why they have different numbers, but they are both M22x1.5, so to me, they are both the same. Do you have them now? Do you notice any difference? I had no issues.
Thank you for great video, your step by step instructions are great. Btw, your wallpaper in this video - is unreal. Can you advise Haw to add it? I have same unit and making it look like yours would be awesome
Why do you disconnect and remove the wiring in the trunk next to the fuse at the 1:05 minute mark? I don't see you going back and replacing those. Is it possible you would not need to remove that harness?
Apologies if it wasn’t clear. That harness is part of the bumper apron I’m removing. Is for all the radar sensors, rear view camera and rear reflectors that are installed in that bumper. So, you need to disconnect them and take the harness out with the bumper. No way around it. And towards the end of the video I believe I show connecting everything back…
We need a bit more information. Assuming you have this same unit and that you are replacing PCM3.1 with Bose? If so, you need to check that you have connected the right RCA connectors to the MOST converter box. And making sure that the MOST converter box is connected to power. And more obvious, that the MOST fiber is connected to the box. Then, go to the equalizer and ensure that the fader and L/R balance is set to middle.
@@porscheDIY excuse me. I have a 2016 porsche Macan GTS with Bose sound system with pcm 4.0 radio. When I connect everything also with most150 converter I have no sound. Can you maybe explain why?
I appreciate you showing the details of these and giving comparisons between the two units you've installed. I just happened to see that another aftermarket system seems to have hit the market since you posted this so I'm wondering if you've seen the new dual screen options. I saw some on eBay and AliExpress but can't find much info yet. We need somebody like you to give it a try and let us know how they compare because the Macan trim layout seems to lend itself well to the dual screen layout.
@@BobKauffman Yes, I have been in conversations with ACAR for a number of months since they started development of these units (acarmultimedia.com/product/acardash-android-touch-screen-interactive-screen-for-macan-2014-2017-pcm3-1-pcm4-0-upgrade-t0-2024/ ). I hinted at the possibility of them sending a unit for me to test, but they are doing all the tests there in their facility. I asked them for detailed photos of rear panel and trims, but haven’t received those… they started with good communication but now is far and in between…
I think I found the answer in the one of your comment reply’s…. Where does the other hose come from? One from the PCV valves on top of valve covers the other from the turbo?
Currently you have two hoses coming from the PCV Valves that connect into a “Y” to a single hose. That single hose then go and connect to the turbo inlets. What you need to do is remove the single hose from that “Y” and then connect it to the outlet of the catch can. Then take a new hose and connect it from the “Y” to the catch can inlet. I hope this makes sense.
