@@heruvey87 it was a Triton work stand, but I fitted 3" swivel castors to the feet and removed the top section and replaced it with a heavy rubber ball (think it was a dog toy). Hope that helps. 👍

@@joseamaral2307 thank you very much.

@@_nacnud_ it's just something I made, it really helps with the heavy sheets when you are working by yourself. The tripod thing itself is a Triton work stand thing with the top removed. Then I put three extra heavy duty castors with m10 threaded studds through the holes in the feet that are already there. On the top is a solid rubber ball, with a hole drilled to accept the bar from the tripod, just a dead tight friction fit. Hope that helps.

Great, thanks. I had a memory of seeing something similar before. Either my mind is playing tricks on me or someone else has done similar. Nothing new under the sun as they say. Does look very handy though 👍🏻

@@_nacnud_ I think I'd seen something similar somewhere at some point, probably on here. Doubt I would have come up with it by myself 😂😂

@@carpentryjoineryandcabinet6335 Haha maybe we saw the same thing. I just need to get the slider for it to help me with now...Anyway keep up the content, always find your stuff interesting 👍🏻

@@_nacnud_ thanks very much 👍

@@TheDukeb08 thank you very much 👍👍

@@Wattsjoinerybarn it's Sayerlack I use now, been really happy with it. I used to use renner top coat, and Morells high build MDF pre cat primer before. But I've gone over to this waterbased Sayerlack for everything now and it's been really good. 👍

@@jason-hh6lu thank you Jason. 👍

@@colinmacdonald1939 thanks Colin, glad some people are finding it useful. Thanks again.

@@anthonymcroberts2760 Hi Anthony. These particular ones are 25mm as it's an in frame job, but for lay on I'd use 22mm as it saves using the special thick door hinges. I do the doors a few different ways. I've started doing the odd job on the CNC as one piece doors, but I'm still quite new to that and refining things a bit, as for a start it was taking me longer to sand them than make a traditional 5 piece. For 5 piece doors I'll either groove on the spindle moulder and cut a stubb tenon on the tenoner, or groove the ends of the rails and use a loose tenon into the stile groove. I haven't really got a preference for either for painted work (prefer a stubb tenon for solid wood stuff that's getting a clear coat). Mostly it's down to if the tenoner is set up for another job and I don't want to reset it. I use a 9mm panel in a 22mm door and a 12mm in a 25mm door. Hope that is some help, thanks.

@carpentryjoineryandcabinet6335 Thanks for that, I was just curious to see how you did your doors but it turns out we do them the same way, I tend to use 22mm material and have a 9mm groove cutter set up permanently and I have test blocks one for centering the cutter for 22mm door stock and one for giving me 10mm margin to the underside of draw bottoms. If I'm using mdf it's loose tendons and glue the panel aswell, for timber I tend to opt for domino's now and don't run the groove to the ends of the stiles. Carry on with the videos as your content is excellent.

Cheers mate, I don't think I'll ever go viral as it's all a bit super niche 😂😂. But hopefully for the people who are interested in that kind of thing it might be useful 🤷🏻‍♂️. I am trying to post a bit more, but I'm always so pushed for time to get jobs out I always think "I'll film the next one" and then never do 😂😂

@@carpentryjoineryandcabinet6335 👍

@@marci0309 glad it helped 👍

😂😂

@@Goultek 😂😂

Thanks man 👍

@@isaacstarnes5967 thanks very much, the slider is great for sheets, not just faster but saves your back too.

@@anthonymcroberts2760 thanks mate, first time trying it on the CNC, definitely a lot quicker. 👍

@@anthonymcroberts2760 yeah, definitely is. I'm going to live with it for a bit and decide if that's the route I want to go down. I have had custom tooling from a company in China called CSP tooling. And they could make one for me to the spec I require. But it would mean removing the existing head to measure all the shaft diameters etc to send to them. Which is a bit of a pain, but may be worth it 🤷🏻‍♂️

@carpentryjoineryandcabinet6335 I see where your coming from cos if you spend a day stripping it down then rebuilding it once you've got the dimensions your a day down on production and being a one man band it can snowball. Might have to be a job over Christmas if you have a few days close down, if you do decide to strip it down film the process it would be an interesting watch.

@@anthonymcroberts2760 yeah, quite possibly, it's just menral.for the next three months, I've got so much to do. I really want to get on with making the new bridge guard for it, but I have to keep telling myself it's not a priority and I need to do paid work instead 😂😂😂

@carpentryjoineryandcabinet6335 I'm in the same boat self-employed joiner if we're not working we're not getting paid.

@@paulhands30 the cost in the UK is really variable, if I was in the London area, I would never be able to have a space this size as a one man workshop, but the county I love in is a lot, lot less expensive (for example my house would probably be worth 5x as much if it was within commuting distance of London). So it's far more achievable as a one man shop around here.

@@keithspencer5368 Hi Keith, overall it's about 1800sqft. That includes the main workshop, paint room, CNC room, office, hallway and toilets. So it's chopped into quite a few bits. Thanks, Ben.

No problem at all, I'm glad that these old videos are still proving useful to people. Thank you for your comment. Have a lovely weekend. 👍

Thanks Joel, I'll definitely make sure we film the other one when we get around to making it, it should be a bit nicer than this is one as well, as this was just a bit of an experiment really. Thanks for watching 👍👍

Hi, the air requirement is next to nothing, so if you've got a compressor of any size it will work fine. I can run this off a little portable 4l compressor if I need to. Hope that helps, they're a great machine. 👍

Thanks very much, I like to see small commercial workshops too. I didn't realise lipping wasn't used in the US, I'll add it to my list of things that make no sense to people across the pond when I say them in videos. 😂😂

Hi Andrew, It's just basic desktop SketchUp for the drawing (mine is actually a really old version from back in the days when you used to get it in a CD ROM). The software I used for the renders at the time is called light up, however it seems that the support for my old version of SketchUp is over now so.im.not using it currently. But I believe it is still available for the newer version. Hope that helps, Thanks, Ben.

@@carpentryjoineryandcabinet6335 Hi Ben Thanks for getting back to me I will have a look.

@@AndrewCrossland-xh4td no problem, hope it helps 👍

Hi mate, The stops are fairly quick to set up. They should have a tape that gets you in the ballpark, but it's not super accurate, so it needs a bit of jostling around after. I have mine set up for movento boxes, with the base 14mm up from the bottom. My top guide (the tail board that goes vertical) is set at 122mm. And my pin board (that lays flat) is set at 147mm on the tape. Bear in mind what the pitch you choose on the lower bar for the follower pin is double the difference between the two. So for example I've got mine set up for a 50mm pitch, so the difference between the two measurements is 25mm. All I did was machine up two boards about 600 long each and do a test cut, see how the tops line up and then tap the fence to adjust. Then trim an inch off the end of the board and do the test cut again. Only takes about 15 minutes or so I would say. Then adjust the other side.ro match in mine that's approx 472mm in the top tape and 497mm on the back, but again just tap them about the get them spot on. Once they're set they tend to hold really well. Hope that helps. 👍

@@carpentryjoineryandcabinet6335 terrific. Thanks so much for sharing and taking the time I will give it a run today and see how it goes. I might be in the same boat as you and need a new cutter though 😉 Thanks again

@@tomreardon8185are you in the UK?

If you are, then JMJ in Hull were the cheapest I found for the replacement cutters. There are tct and hss cutters available, so make sure when you compare prices you are getting prices for the txt each time. 👍

@@carpentryjoineryandcabinet6335 Sorry for the delay. It’s been on the back burner. The bearings in the spindle are toast so I’m in the process of getting replacements for these. I’m in Australia so not a whole lot of support for them here unfortunately

Thanks Philip! I'm trying to make sure I uploaded at least one video a month this year, and it's amazing how many more people have found the channel since I've been posting (a tiny bit) more regularly. Thanks again for watching, it's greatly appreciated. 👍

I’ll look forward to the vids. Plenty of back catalogue to wade through in the meantime. You do some super work 👍

@@philipwilliams8114 thanks very much Philip, that's very kind of you to say.

Thanks, much appreciated 👍

Hi Mike, thank you very much. I buy the UF resin from Ureka Global, their website is www.thenamethatsticks.com I hope that helps.

Cheers, thanks very much for the info. You’ve inspired me to move from bags to a press now. Your tip about sourcing roll ends for the pond liner membrane has paid off too 👍🏻

@@mikehewitt6484 that's awesome, I've been really pleased with mine, especially as it was only really intended to be a prototype, but I've veneered dozens and dozens of panels in there now, it's been faultless so far. One of the best things I've ever made for the workshop. 👍

Thank you very much 👍

I'll get a little video as a short this afternoon just showing the sealing detail a little better. I'll let you know when it's up. Thanks👍

Thanks, I think I missed a few bits, but hopefully enough to point someone in the right direction if they fancy having a go themselves. 👍👍

Cheers, I'll try and get up a video of what you need to order etc soon, it's a really quick project. 👍

Yeah, I'd be totally lost without mine now. Mine is very old and can be very temperamental, but it was cheap. I bought it not working and ended up putting a lot of hours into rebuilding it. But even with all its faults it's been a real game changer, especially for veneered work. I used to have a twin drum sander by Kufo before this, and to be honest for what it did I couldn't fault it, but the wide belt is a completely different beast!

Thanks Anthony, it's a great song. The CNC has been great, I used to route these fluted panels out by hand using templates and a palm router. It was just so slow, although the end result was the same. Thanks again.

Thanks Richard, very much appreciated. 👍

Thank you Colin. Sorry, I meant to mention it in the video. These veneers were from Nantwich veneer over in Cheshire. I think I am going to give Capital Crispin down in Basildon a go next, as I've seen some of their recent selection and it looked really, really good. One thing to bear in mind is most suppliers tend to keep a lot less stock of the 1.5mm and 2.5mm than they do of the 0.6mm, so you might need to shop around a bit more if you are after a very specific grain pattern. Thanks again, Ben.

Thank you 👍

Thank you Collin. I'll get a video on the press up soon showing how it operates and some of the features. We are going to make another for my friend too, so when we do that I'll make a video showing the process of making one if that is of interest. Thanks again.

Hi, Thanks very much, it's @chesterandmorriskitchens. I don't post a tonne, I'm about as consistent on there as I am on RU-vid 😂 but I tend to do a few stories of just what's going on in the workshop here and there. Thanks again, 👍

Just found your account and started following. 👍

Hi Ross, It's an old Virutex model, I believe it's called an AP98. I think has been replaced with a newer model called the CE53, but it looks to be very similar. Ideally I'd like one of the discontinued Lamello cantex models, as they're a much more refined tool. I've bid on a few over the years, but they always seem to go for £1k plus, and I can't justify that for the upgrade. I got my Virutex used from a chap who used it for solid surface work. I think I paid about £150, and you see them for that sort of price quite regularly. I think at that it is good value. 👍

Thanks for the info- unless I can get hold of a second hand one, I think for the amount of work I do like that, it’s not economical atm (I promised myself not to spend anymore on the workshop this year, already 2 grand in 😂) Might have to stick with the trim router for the moment!

@@Sentence3 to be fair a trim router does do the job perfectly well. I would never have justified a brand new one, but this was on Facebook marketplace, and it's easily paid for itself since I've had it. 👍

Lucky find! 👍🏻

To be honest they are mainly there to remind me that it's wet glue, as I'm working my way through multiple doors at the same time. Each door has been shimmed to be dead flat before the section gets glued in, as it's essentially forming a lamination. So it just stops me running the lipping planer over it and picking it up and moving it whilst it's still wet. The parts going into the grooves are a pretty tight compression fit, so don't require any real clamping at all, they just friction fit in. 👍

@@carpentryjoineryandcabinet6335 ah yeah fair enough then

Hi Richard, I'll do a little update on it and go through the construction. I probably should have filmed some stuff as I made it, but this was never intended to be the actual press, it was just a test run to see if I could even get it to work/seal before I made the proper thing (hence it's a bit scruffy looking, but matches the general workshop aesthetic😂). But it's worked so well (and I've got so little spare time) that I've just kept it. We are going to make another bigger neater looking one for my mate Jon at some point, so I'll try to film the whole thing when I do that and make a video of its construction for if anyone wants to do the same. Cheers, Ben

Hi Dan, For carcass material I tend to use pre veneered sheets. But for doors and drawer fronts etc, I'll veneer them up myself. Partly because it means I can have a nice 10mm thick solid lipping, and partly as I can lay out my own grain match through the doors etc. I also normally use 1.5mm veneer for doors and drawers, so it gives you a bit more to sand at and is a bit more durable. In the past I've mainly fitted my own jobs, but all my work is mainly away (mostly in London), and now I've got a family I don't really want to be working away from home, so I'm starting to transition into supply only, but that presents its own problems too. I'd like to see some paint on the walls too, but unless there are a lot more primer explosions I can't imagine it happening any time soon 😂😂😂. Thanks, Ben.

Thanks Jon, a lot has changed since this video, so I'm hoping to get an updated shop tour up at some point soon. Lots of new equipment. Thanks again. Ben.

Thanks Leigh, I think these were finished in fiddes hardwax oil in the English colour stain, although it's been a while so I'd have to check to be certain. I like it better than osmo or Rubio. I also spray interiors as well if people want that, in either a wb matt lacquer, or an acid cat satin lacquer. So it just depends on the job and what the client would like. Thanks again, Ben.

This model does not have a brushless motor, but this is quite an old video, so I'm not sure if newer models may have 🤷🏻‍♂️.

I know a few guys in the US who use those same machines, so I would imagine that they are available in Canada as well. The notcher is amazing, just the perfect tool for the job. But to be honest if you have a faceframe clamp table like the kreg one, then I don't think the dovetail keys are necessarily any better than a pocket screw, other than looking a bit neater from the back maybe🤷🏻‍♂️. So I'd definitely prioritise the notcher over the dovetail kep machine. 👍

Hi Jason, On this kitchen the carcasses were made from finsa pre veneered oak MDF. I do on occasion do solid wood carcasses, but I generally try to put the client off as much as possible, as it is just not the best thing for the job in my opinion (550-600mm is a wide single panel glue up, and even in fairly stable conditions, that's going to move a reasonable amount seasonally). Generally I'll offer the following from most cost effective to most expensive. 1. Melanie faced mdf as the most cost effective option when budget is a big consideration. 2. Veneered mdf (pre veneered sheets) for more mid range cost wise. 3. Veneered in house in .6mm over finsa hydrofugo moisture resistant mdf for really top end jobs. 4. Veneered in house over birch ply using 1.5mm veneer instead of 0.6mm. This is like the money no object, make it as fancy as you can option. Realistically you're not going to get many go for it, it's more likely for a vanity unit or something smaller, but in a full kitchen the cost is going to really jump up from pre veneered sheets. Thanks, Ben

Thanks kieron, lots has changed since this was uploaded, so I'll try and get a more up to date tour up soon. Thanks again, Ben

Thanks very much, I'd love to do more, I just never seem to be able to get the time. There's never enough hours in the week!