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People who are new to soldering may attempt to simply turn up the temperature of the soldering station if the solder is balling up, not wetting to the tip, nor flowing onto the wires, terminals or copper circuit-board foils. Attempting to solder at too-high a temperature makes the tip oxidize even faster; best to clean the tip thoroughly, re-tin it immediately, and try soldering again, before making anything other than minor adjustments to the temperature. The other issues that frequently arise nowadays are *poor quality or counterfeit-brand tips made from the wrong metals*; garbage "solder" made of the wrong alloys or containing little to no flux or the wrong kind of flux; tips of the wrong shape (most soldering irons are provided with sharp pointy tips that are useless for all but the tiniest of soldering jobs); or a defect in the temperature-control feedback of the soldering station. Don't buy soldering iron tips from eBay, Ali baba or Temu! Don't even buy them through Amazon, unless you know specifically what company is supplying them (Amazon isnt a distributor, they're a middleman re-lister of the item for a cut of the profit; their supply chain is often opaque at best and intentionally obscured at worst, although some Amazon listings will link you directly to a reputable manufacturer or distributor). Buy your tips, solder, tip cleaners, flux and other supplies from an electronics specialty house and you won't get ripped off. If the price seems too good to be true, it's probably junk or counterfeit.
Looks like the tip power for this new 888DX is 65W, same as for the old 888D. However, the power used by the new 888DX is 100W vs 70W of the 888D. Do you know why the new unit uses more power? Or maybe I'm missing something? Edit: I think it's to work with the optional FX-8806 tip which uses 95W.
My Hakko FM206 does not exit temp selection numbers after entering the final of the 3 numbers per this video. It happens whether i be altering set or preset temperatures. This problem is only happening on solder sucker (channel 1). Is this normal ? I want to apply less than default 350C for some delicate desoldering operations Perhaps i need to factory reset the station or its faulty.
The luck find of an as-new FG-100 on eBay and this video has resolved a problem I've been having for months. Of course, I must have used adjustment mode and messed up the calibration. Now, I'm back to within 1.5% of indicated temperature and I'm in love with my FX-888D again! Turns out I could have just done a factory reset, but hey, I'm still happy (and I have an FG-100).
Come on now. They finally give us a proper dial instead of the messed up interface they had before, which was a legitimate complaint, and now we’re worried about how it looks? I guess they shouldn’t have tried to advertise it like a stylish Apple product from 12-15 years ago. ;)
Nah, lots of t18s out there that are super cost effective. Have you tried retrofitting to T19s? They have significantly higher heat capacity in similar sizes.
If the software recognizes that a medium iron is plugged into the base, then the software should automatically limit the maximum temperature the user can set (on the slider) to 850 instead of 940 as shown in the video. It already knows > 850 is not allowed so why not just limit the slider to the valid parameters of the iron plugged into the base?
Coming from the FX-888D, the single most thing I like about my FX-971 is the T39-B02 tip. It's suitable for SMD and a lot of general purpose soldering. An equivalent T18 tip would make the FX-888 series more useful. The closest is the T18-S4 but too pointy. I have no mental issue with conical tips.
Thank you for the information. I just purchased a EU version of the FM-203 through Eleshop (your European distributor). It does not have the black dot in the corner of the sticker, however it does display version 3.20 when powering it on while holding the three buttons. I don't have a FM-2030 handpiece to test it with, but I suppose it should be supported on my unit. I think checking the firmware version is probably a more reliable option than to just look at the dot on the sticker, because the unit might have been upgraded without the user adding a black dot onto the sticker afterwards.
Not impressed with the weller brand so far. 2 pen types, one failed the other no spare tips available. So far from all ive seen i think i will make an effort to buy a hakko. Currently my ps4 controller has stick drift. I bought two magnetic hall effect sticks to replace the old ones but god damn are they a bitch to unsolder from the board. The chinese tip set i bought for my weller just were not durable and the enamel eroded or got scrapped off and could not transfer the heat efficiently into the solder on the board. And forget using a solder wick. I was thinking to just buy a hakko tip and use it on my already butchered weller, but i think i might just buy a whole hakko unit instead. So now i have a question for you, which model would you recommend for situations such as my ps4 controller? I really dont think they wanted anyone to desolder the joysticks at all bcoz the weller handled the vibration motor wires very easily. I didnt have low melt solder on hand, but i managed to wiggle the joysticks off the board however i am currently having trouble cleaning the holes to mount the new sticks. Its quite frustrating. The weller has been doing the job up until this point, ive done many jobs with it. Its only a 40w unit. But anything with a heatsink on it just soaks up the heat and wont melt the solder. And now this ps4 controller. Let me know pls, most likely the purchase will made off amazon.ca.
How about a temperature knob!!! Seems the newer the Hakko, the more pain in the butt it is to change the temp. Hold this button, hit this button to change, hold this, push that. 100% bullcrap is what it is. Last time I tried to change the temp on my Hakko I was in the calibration menu, oops. Yeah, gotta get out my instruction sheet just to see how to change the temp, that should not be. Should be as simple as turning a knob. I love the performance from my Hakko products but let's try to keep the simple things SIMPLE!
why not just make the temp changing simple by holding the up or down buttons and have it jogging through numbers instead of going number slot to slot. its too many buttons to press and annoying. and the tip chasing slot.. you need two of them ... what happens if you want to go back to your first tip... you are totally stuck waiting for the second tip to cool down. if you had a second slot, you could switch in and out instantly.
My company uses CHP-170 and Plato 170 and I reach for CHP every time. Will probably cut 50,000 wires before the spring collapses and I ask for a new pair, I even resharpen mine with a cheap harbor freight diamond file and they cut like a hot knife thru butter. Great product 👍
Question do you guys have a station or a device that can be used for when building a circuit on a pcb, 5v or 12v to send power to the parts. I see some Chinese irons got this feature. im just asking. This Iron will be my go to device for doing some work. I don't see it at all on amazon so will have to buy it from you guys directly.
HAHK-KO. Ha like haha but with a K on the end then a separate K before the O. The AH vowel is the only way the Japanese pronounce A but it’s always coupled with a consonant like MA or BA because they use sound units called ‘mora’ instead of letters with the exception of ‘n’. In fact, in Japanese, you’d pronounce it HA-KU-KO but with a soft U (OO) sound. In fact, they drop it/don’t pronounce certain letter combinations so it would be as I first said in practice. I don’t speak Japanese but I did do a few Rosetta Stone lessons. Maybe someone else who knows better will chime in.
